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Feb 15, 2015 19:44:35 GMT
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I don't know if jags are the same, but chances are the ABS and traction control will use the same sensors, so the ABS unit is likely to be ok, just the wheel sensors causing grief.
If you have a multi-meter with a frequency testing option you can usually disconnect them, pop the meter on them and spin the wheel, if ok they will give a steady output as wheel spins and slows.
A nice buy and an interesting steed
Brian
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Feb 15, 2015 19:31:45 GMT
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They have a slip ring, so a metal contact next to the column and a circular contact ring on the underside of the wheel, the horn is usually fed via a fuse with a live supply and the circuit returns to the column which provides the ground to the column itself.
Modern multi function wheels probably have many tracks or can-bus wizardry.....
Brian
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2015 19:33:26 GMT by Good Scrap
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If its spread you're trying to stop my first thoughts are why not use steel wire rope, eye bolts and tensioners, I admit it wouldn't tie as an assembly, you'd still need the chimney collar to bridage around that, but it'd be very cheap, quick and easy to install and certainly restrain spread.
Brian
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Try a hydraulic hose place, but you will need to know the thread or have a sample in your hand for them to match it to
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Absolutely, sold a car on 1st nov and dated the paperwork as such, even posted it the same day. Back in the good old days if you claimed the tax back and the envelope was dated the 1st then you got the whole month refunded.
In our case they stung us and only refunded from December, it's a great swindle to make two people pay.
My advise only sell at the end of the month and buy at the start. Easiest way not to get stung is to SORN the car (you or vendor) close to the end of the month and don't transfer the car on paper (or for real unless you really trust them) until the 1st or after . Remember the SORN is not transferable across owners so vehicle is liable for tax from date of sale.
Brian
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Jan 31, 2015 15:22:20 GMT
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Jan 30, 2015 23:05:32 GMT
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Nothing to stop you advertising the plate before applying for retension/transfer.
Friend of mine sold a plate through an agent (for about £1k), he had it listed for over a year while it was still on his car being driven, then once a buyer was found, did the transfer.
So if you can't find a buyer you incur no costs.
Brian
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Jan 27, 2015 23:47:48 GMT
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There is also flow drilling then tapping a thread, you do need to get it on a pillar drill with a decent power/speed capacity. Riv-nuts are probably more realistic
Brian
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Jan 26, 2015 23:26:39 GMT
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I don't see the benift of water based, you still need to apply a 2k lacquer over it, so the risks are about the same.
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Jan 25, 2015 12:28:15 GMT
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Honestly can't remember for Royal Mail, but Hermes you need to print label on a piece of A4 and stick it on
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Jan 25, 2015 12:16:30 GMT
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If it's less than 15kg then Hermes is a good place to start.
If you sell on eBay then you can do Royal Mail I think up to 25kg for about £12 using the links from the eBay sale page. This is way better than you can get from Royal Mail or parcel force as a regular customer.
Brian
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Jan 22, 2015 20:11:26 GMT
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I use classic line in hinckley, I've always had great service and keen pricing though I do have a few years on you. I moved to them from Adrian flux who got expensive.
Brian
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Jan 12, 2015 18:10:34 GMT
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This website gives lots of info for many manufacturers, you could match the disc thicknesses across other cars and look for other suitable caliper donors. www.apecbraking.co.uk/catalogue/rangefriction/range/1800There is a search function on the site which allows you to put in a %deviation on the sizes you're looking for! start with the disc features and you might find a car/calipers to suit Brian
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Also for info if the car was repairable, you do not have to use their approved body shop, you can choose your own, you may need to get several quotes and if your preferred body shop isn't far adrift of the other quotes and the assessor agrees it's fair then they can't force you to use their large scale repair shop.
Brian
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Depends on the offset and arch clearance. Boring them would be cheaper than hub-centric spacers.
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If a claim is for the full amount, I understand they insurance company can excercise the right to cancel the policy, I feel this is unfair as you've paid for a years cover......
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If the other side is ok, then chances are the flasher unit is ok, if you've changed the stalk then the next thing is probably earths at the lamps, try it at night to see if they are on dimly and also other lights on dimly as the earth might be being shared.
I'd try a temporary earth to each light and see if it works, you could also probe with a multi-meter.
What happens when you put the hazards on?
Brian
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Could be as mentioned by ChasR, a perished hose or weak pump. If is a single line fuel supply and mechanical pump I would get a new length of hose and a fuel can/tank off a law mower, set it up a couple of feet above the engine perhaps on the roof or a wooden pole next to the car.
If it starts and runs on this ok, then swap the fuel line and try again, likewise you could also run the original pipe into a container and see how much fuel is being delivered when cranking.
Brian
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What model did it start out as? I'm assuming a car and the cab has been shortened?
Brian
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