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Jun 12, 2015 21:21:45 GMT
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I've often found listings ending after the 28th of the month do better, people living from payday to payday have newfound wealth, just before the mortgage payment goes out on the 1st-5th of the next month, with that said the risk of a no show increases- because they suddenly have a reality check that their wealth is to be short lived........
Brian
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2015 21:23:20 GMT by Good Scrap
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Brilliant, thanks for taking the time to share your work, it's one of the best and most educational threads I've read.in years.
so are you just using a block in the middle and a flat sheet of urethane above? Results are great.
Brian
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May 20, 2015 20:03:29 GMT
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Measure diagonally across the holes using a steel rule, use the one side of the hole, i.e. the left side of both holes
If you have a digital calliper, using the internal jaws you can measure the hole size and zero the display at this point, then measure diagonally and you will get the exact pcd as you've already taken off the hole size.
Brian
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Apr 28, 2015 17:24:49 GMT
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And seal the floor with watered down pva a few times. Or damp the floor down to hold dust when you do start painting, personally I don't like to wet the floor before I've got bare metal and primer covered up, just seems like a way of promoting rust, probably doesn't just feels wrong
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Apr 20, 2015 10:47:32 GMT
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I usually use a clean flat oil stone and some wd40 to lightly check for any raised deposits, ALS remove the hollow dowel for cleaning, put a close fitting drill or bolt in it and grip with mole grips to pull it out, clean the face then re-fit.
After that clean everything with brake cleaner or similar then put it back together. To be honest it looks pretty good as you have it.
Areas that matter are where the fire rings seat around the top of the cylinders and any oil or water passages, offer the gaskit up and see where it need so seal around these features.
Brian
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Apr 18, 2015 21:15:31 GMT
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We had one of these about 25 years back, I remember the day we took delivery (it was secondhand) , me as an eight year old sitting in it as my dad closed the door, I'll never forget the pain that the over centre door catch inflicted on my hand as it crushed my digits.
It didn't stay with us for long, traded it against a 956 international which we still have to this day, probably because it had more hydraulic spool valves or something silly.
I think we still have an aftermarket pick -up hitch conversion in the shed, if memory serves they came with a fixed hitch as standard?
Brian
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Apr 17, 2015 20:50:06 GMT
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You should get a few quid for the chassis, either from a farmer to make into a trailer, or for someone who wants a chassis table to build a car on.
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Apr 11, 2015 20:51:53 GMT
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How did you position the metal for welding? The limited amount of stick welding I've done I've tried to position joints like that at 45 degrees to help keep both legs the same rather than one being horizontal and the other vertical, if that makes sense?
Also I found that damp rods and cold steel are a pain, so heat the rods in an oven and I'd run the outside weld first where you have best access, then immediately run the inside weld whilst there is still heat in the metal.
You could also put a vertical gusset/web from between the bolt holes to the large side of the channel to stiffen the end plate if needed.
Keep up the good work.
Brian
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2015 20:59:54 GMT by Good Scrap
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That will be hardened and difficult to turn without using carbide or insert tooling, also it may flex depending on how it is held. If it does flex you will get a tapered thickness during the cut. A better option, but it would time consuming would be surface grinding, but its potentially costly as it's usually a finishing process. You could also just thin down the area where the chain runs on one side? Of course there's also the option of softening it by annealing it first, machining, then re-hardening.
If it seems I've been unhelpful then put a wanted ad on homeworkshop.org you might find someone local with either a surface grinder or a lathe with toolpost grinder and plenty of enthusiasm/time.
Brian
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Mar 25, 2015 18:38:40 GMT
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Go to a trailer suppliers and get a cheap trailer hitch. Then bolt/weld it to the bar. Last time I needed to do something similar I bolter the hitch to some box section, then used the stock holes in the bar to bolt it to the box section. Edit to add just found this pic of something similar smg.photobucket.com/user/MGJohn/media/Trailer%20Pictures/ModifiedHitch2.jpg.htmlJust make sure you orientate the ends to suit the eye on the car being towed. Brian
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Mar 22, 2015 20:52:36 GMT
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Keep your eye on homeworkshop.org as well, stuff like this comes up often.
If it's small scale the cheep Chinese stuff can be a good starting point, they might be rough around the edges, and with a little fettling can be a lot better than out the box, but they won't be worn out before you start. The bench top ones can be had for a few hundred
That said I used a well worn Harrison L5 for a couple of years and with care good things could be made and I learnt a lot.
Brian
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Mar 18, 2015 17:45:04 GMT
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I tried the two spaces thing years back and on more than one occasion someone shoehorned their car alongside, to do it properly I suggest two spaces and park diagonally, this scares people and you often end up with four spaces to yourself. After that I bought a plastic car and people just bounce off it......
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Mar 18, 2015 17:36:21 GMT
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I like the multi colours as well, it's a bit magnus walker-esque like 277
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Mar 17, 2015 20:17:40 GMT
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I had one last week, bought a car on the Saturday and sorned my other the same day, new log book arrived several days before the tax refund.
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Mar 14, 2015 22:30:55 GMT
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There may be a cheaper way, but if you put the plate on retention, they will issue the old number if still applicable, or a new age related one.
Like I say there may be a cheaper way to do the same especially if you give the numberplate to a trader who can see some value in it, they may cover the fees for you in exchange for the plate.
Brian
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Mar 11, 2015 23:05:09 GMT
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Mar 10, 2015 22:26:51 GMT
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Vehicle wiring products, autosparks to name a couple of places
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I'd get a breaker bar on it and apply a constant force, as much as you dare, then get an assistant to belt the back of the bar with a lump hammer, the impact should help shock it free.
If you fail to get a good bite on the proper socket thrash a 12-point socket into the remains of the bolt, as mentioned above, you will probably trash the socket in the process but I've known it work quite well.
Can you get any of the other wheels off, if so do you know if they are close firing on the centre bore if not, another thing to try is taking out the other bolts and rocking the wheel while you try and undo the locking bolt.
Last resorts are drilling the head off of welding a nut onto the knackered bolt, the latter may well damage the wheel.
Brian
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Feb 19, 2015 10:21:00 GMT
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My goodness, drilling a hole through 13" is a task in itself, dd you part drill form each end or find a mega long drill from somewhere?
I'm surprised it didn't wander, at least the most risky operation is out of the way,
I'll be watching this progress as it'll be an interesting project for you.
Brian
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Feb 16, 2015 12:12:39 GMT
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Same issue here, ipad shuts down and logs me out when replying to a thread, retro rides is the only site that does this.
I'm on Google Chrome if that counts
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