|
|
|
Who's fault was it?
If your fault and they pay out in full you don't necessarily have any right on the salvage, check the terms in your policy.
If you we're not at fault, then the third parties insurance company cannot claim the salvage, they should give you the option to settle at pre-accident vehicle value less salvage amount, if they pay out the whole amount as a cat A or B write off then you may find things get more difficult.
I had someone rear end my daily and went through loads of hassle, don't let them take the car, either to assess it or otherwise, if drivable then keep the keys in your hand when it goes for quotes, or email the insurance pictures. My claim took 4 months to sort and eventually I got 75% of the cars value and kept the salvage, still driving it now after straightening some bent parts and a few essential bits.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That is superb, I'd love something like that,
My ideal would be something like a modern bmw 3litre diesel lump and 6speed box so it'd be a lot of fun and usable daily.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2014 23:11:18 GMT
|
For your health either melt it out, or use a die grinder and a carbide burr, the burr will remove it in big slithers, just go steady so you don't thin the steel.
do not sand or grind it off even with a basic dust mask it will fill the air, may not get on you lungs today, but when you sweep up afterwards who knows.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2014 19:48:47 GMT
|
How about using dark and light vaneer and doing a chequer board with opposing grain or some other theme to tie into other aspects of your work.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2014 21:45:23 GMT
|
Does you meter have a 10A setting?
If so you can use that, but you MUST use it in series, that is to say you disconnect a main battery cable and run the power from the battery in one meter lead, through the meter and out the other lead back to the vechicle cable.
If you did this with the alternator connected, then disconnect it (isolate any cable ends, put in a plastic bottle and wrap with insulation tape) and repeat the test, you could find this is the culprit.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2014 21:28:24 GMT
|
As above could be a fault in the alternator. Try disconnecting it and isolating the terminals, then re-do the current draw test the AA did.
If that is ok, one by one pull each fuse in turn and measure the current drain across each, then you can at least narrow down where the juice is going. That said at 5amps it's significant and should be easy to find, if nothing else by the heat, it's 60watts of energy,
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Astley's in cov sold it a couple of years back when I wanted some, also Cromwell tools list it in their catalogue, but you'd have to order it no doubt
Rustoleum also have an address in cov you may be able to deal direct with
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2014 13:49:56 GMT
|
Upol galv-x is specifically for aluminium and galvanised surfaces, make sure you etch priime as your first coat when you do get onto paint.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Take a look at homeworkshop.org.uk this is a free ads site for machine tools and is funded by donations, usually from the sellers, I've met the chap who started it and he gets a lot of support this way, it also helps hobbiests trade machining equipment.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2014 18:20:18 GMT
|
We got stung on tax, just sold the wife's car on 1st nov, sent the docs off on the 1st and still got clobbered for the whole months tax.
There is a good chance you will both end up paying for the whole month if you're not careful. If you have enough time I would wait until the last day of the month, exchange the cars onto the other persons premises, then SORN them on the last day of the month before midnight. This should trigger your rebate on the tax.
Sign and date the logbooks for the1st and this way hopefully you won't loose the month on the car you sell.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2014 19:18:09 GMT
|
Best way is using hydraulic pressure from a spare master cylinder, clamp the ones that are moving with steel straps and bolts , or wedges between opposite ones that move, otherwise your effort is being used just moving them, and not affecting the seized ones.
The smaller the master cylinder bore the better as you can develop higher pressure, but move less fluid
Compressed air is actually quite dangerous as once thay start moving they can fly due to the rapid expansion of the air.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2014 17:40:27 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 12, 2014 17:41:52 GMT by Good Scrap
|
|
|
|
|
If you know someone with a press brake they could flatten some tube in 3m lengths with flat upper and lower tools. I know someone who rolls oval tube using profiled rollers, also the rollers need to be in-line, not like a normal 3-roller setup or you will end up with a curved section as well (you'll know this already) Edit to add: you might find this of inspiration www.kcdawnpatrol.org/Oval_Press.htm[\url]Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Magnecor do specials to order, quality is awesome too Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here is the closest thing to the k-series bible www.dvandrews.co.ukGo to the k-series development page, loads of info on heads and every other mod you might contemplate, including the issues of fitting a VVC head to a standard block asi think the head is slightly taller for one thing and silly things like the plug leads are longer If skimming the head it's common proactive to peen the face around the fire rings, this closes up any porosity and also gives you an indication if the head has gone soft, which can occur if overheated. Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Self tapping roofers screw, these have rubber sealing washers and I've heard of them being used to seal leaky pipes on water pumping rigs for example. You will find some are self drilling designed for going into girders, even the normal self tapping ones will go through thin material like a sump especially if it's a bit crusty, and these are probably better as the steel will deform and give more threads as it bites in.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2014 18:53:53 GMT
|
I put heat shrink over the hose before making the last joint, you have to cut the heat shrink over length and compress it while fitting the union, then be careful when shrinking so as not to overheat the plastic tube in the process.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2014 13:30:24 GMT
|
Rally design do banjo bolts, braided hose and banjo fittings, I would call them to make sure they match the bolts to banjo, and hose to banjo, but it should cost around £25 at worst if you had to use dash4 and a bit less in dash3 if the banjos are suitable www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=562_85_248_249&&page=3Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2014 18:23:15 GMT
|
Not sure about the engine frankenhealey has but;
It's probably a free power turbine, that is to say the gas turbine (engine) produces a hot exhaust stream that passes over power turbine which is a bit like a fan for want of a better expression, the gas turbine is not linked to this power turbine and you can put full engine thrust onto it even when stationary so you don't need a clutch, in fact if you do have a clutch or an interruptible drive train you would have to be careful of overspeeding the power turbine.
So there is no direct link between engine speed and turbine outpot speed, so you can also have full power developed by the engine and the power turbine spinning anywhere between 0 and 6000rpm or whatever the maximum rated speed is.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2014 21:25:46 GMT
|
How about making it in copper with Yorkshire fittings, 15mm and 12mm reducer/bends as necessary, the raised rings will allow you to use rubber pipe and get a good seal. Paint it black once done if you need to discuise it.
Brian
|
|
|
|