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I've used the stuff you can pour in to seal small punctures, I believe it's often sold for caravan users, but there used to be a chap at some shows around here with a wheel and tyre on a stand - he'd put the stuff in, blown the tyre up, and just used to spin it and stab it with a bradawl. I think the theory is that the "stuff" comes out of the hole and seals it up.
Tyre fitters don't like it, apparently, and I've heard there are issues with getting a tyre repaired if it's had the stuff in it.
There may also be something you could just paint on the inside of the rim to seal it. I wasn't sure where mine was leaking from, and at the time couldn't do a lot of running around with wheels and tyres due to lack of space in the vehicle.
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This must be very rare - one that hasn't been turned into a coffee or pizza van.
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If going for injection, could you not put a fitting into the the top plate of the sender unit? ( now thinking I could possibly do this myself) My sender unit is on the front face of the tank, about halfway up. I always figured there would be problems routing the fuel back in below the level of the fuel in the tank. I guess the pressure in the injection line would probably negate that. You can tell I didn't look into it in any great detail.
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Jun 27, 2018 17:44:40 GMT
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I don't know the car, but I can't see why a mechanical pump wouldn't be enough to feed a 1.6 engine - my 2.3 Vauxhall had one from new without any trouble.
If the pump isn't pulling fuel through, check that it doesn't have diaphragm or valve issues, and check and connections on the fuel line to make sure it's not pulling in air. One issue on the Vauxhall engine is that if it's stood for some time (months) it can turn over slowly, too slowly to make the pump pull fuel down if it's all run back to the tank. If you spray a bit of easy-start into the carb directly, does it try to start? Sometimes that's enough to make it pull fuel down and carry on running, when cranking speed might not be.
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Last Edit: Jun 27, 2018 17:46:49 GMT by droopsnoot
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I'm interested in this for a different reason - to adapt a plain vanilla (easy to get) tank sender unit to also have the fuel pickup line. I was talking to a supplier the other day about the issue, and his response was "you would use a seal. We have BDS - but you may need a Viton type". I took it that "Viton" is some kind of fuel-safe sealing material, but I didn't get any more detail and haven't had chance to look further.
But, when I was thinking about injection and how to easily get a return fuel line fitted, I wondered about adding the return into one of the rubber sections in the filler pipe, partly because I thought it might be easier, and partly because tanks for my car are like hens teeth and I didn't want to be drilling holes in an otherwise good one.
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Jun 26, 2018 17:33:04 GMT
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A friend of mine used this company for coloured belts. I was going to mention FDTS - they refurbished my seat belts and I know they do different colours.
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Jun 26, 2018 17:31:39 GMT
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I had mine done by Martrim in Middlewich quite a few (20+ years) ago, and it was pretty good. The only issue at the time was that they had to sew it, they couldn't do the original-style weld.
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Yes, my daily driver (2000 Audi) is the same - the electronics in the dashboard will show spot-on 90 degrees (centre of the gauge) for anything between about 82 and 100 degrees.
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On the subject of poly bushes, can anyone clarify this thought one way or the other? It has to do with fitting poly bushes into suspension arms - let's say a front wishbone on a Viva, which has upper and lower wishbones, not a Macpherson strut arrangement.
In a standard rubber bush, the centre sleeve is bonded to the outer rubber and, in some places, to an outer steel sleeve. These are an interference fit, the central bolt is tightened up with the weight on the car and the only movement of the arm is through the "give" in the rubber - that is, it does not pivot around the bolt, the centre sleeve does not (or should not) move at all.
On a poly bush, the centre isn't bonded to the poly, or at least it isn't in the Superflex ones I've used. So I tighten the bolt in the same way, so that the centre sleeve doesn't turn. But because it isn't bonded to the rest of the bush, surely that means the whole thing pivots around the sleeve, and allows much more rotation than using a standard bush?
I imagine that the way I drive my cars (very gently) probably means that I don't see any difference, but for those fitting poly for handling purposes, surely increased movement is not a good thing? Or am I missing something?
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40th anniversary of the HS launch this year, so hopefully seeing a few more out and about. Our club stand at Tatton this weekend had 2x HS and 1x HSR, unfortunately I didn't take many photos and they're just about hidden in all of them.
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I don't know why I feel this way about snapping stuff at garages... I just think it's a bit disrespectful to the garage and potentially puts them at risk of malcontents being drawn to their space with a hauler in the middle of the night. I feel the same way - a mate works on various old things and sometimes it would make a nice image. I almost took a photo around Christmas when the workshop contained an E-type roadster, MGBGT, MG Magnette and a Dolomite Sprint. He wouldn't have minded, but I didn't take it in the end. If I do, I always make sure that the place can't be identified from the photo, and maybe I'd mask registrations and so on.
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If you're talking about the blocks you wrap wet and dry around, I just used a variety of different things when I was doing my recent restoration and while there are issues with the final finish, I'm not sure the blocks are at fault. I've got a standard cork block, a foam block, a plastic thing that has a bit of foam on it, that kind of stuff. For certain parts of the body they weren't any use, so I've used varying diameters of foam pipe insulation, or hard plastic pipe, and various sizes of MDF as sold blocks when the cork one is too wide.
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You've got more patience than I have Razza, I took my camera both days and took about four photos, all of our club stand. And the trouble on Sunday was it was a lot busier, so there were more people to get in the way.
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I've used those sponge discs as well. Can't remember the proper name for them, but it's basically an abrasive sponge disc for either a drill or a grinder.
Eye protection as well, though you'll know that, whichever one you use. I've found bits of wire from those twisted-knot wire cups embedded in my overalls after a paint stripping session.
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How well does por15 cover? As I recall, it covers very well as long as the surface is right. I didn't go with it on suspension parts because it's very shiny, which I didn't want. I think I used some Frosts Chassis Black on some suspension parts that won't be seen, again because it's really glossy.
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I did wonder about that when I thought it was the MOT expiry date - powered up with a key held down to try to force it into the BIOS, that kind of stuff. I never managed to make it do anything other than boot, and I'm not 100% sure it's exactly PC architecture. It has a floppy drive, but that only contains MOT information and it boots just the same whether the floppy is in place or not.
However, the issue with it is that it's detected the gas calibration has "drifted" sufficiently far that it's decided a calibration is required. It's not that it's been a certain amount of time, apparently, but that it's found a problem.
I was reluctant to just bin it while I thought it was just an expiry date, but the Snap-on chap took me through a number of screens and the date-based refusal to show gas readings has already been disabled.
I've put an advert for it for spares in the "parts for sale" section, but I doubt anyone will want it.
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One of my customers in the mid-80s bought a new 911, it was only one digit different to that 944. Must have been from the same dealer.
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I hear poor reports of "modern" Hammerite products. I've used POR-15, but on a car that's only just gone back on the road so it's too early to say how well it lasts. It does prefer rough surfaces though - if you put it on clean new steel without using their own special "surface prep" primer, it can peel off in a skin.
General suggestions seem to be to steer clear of powder coating, though, for various reasons.
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May 31, 2018 17:54:39 GMT
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I have a Sun DGA-1800 Gas analyser. It won't display a gas reading because the gas calibration has drifted sufficiently that it needs attention. The Snap-on technician suggested that would be difficult to arrange, I'm not sure whether that's just generally difficult, or whether he'd picked up on my reluctance to pay anything. The former, I think. The unit lights up, does everything it might, apart from actually analyse exhaust gas. So, I'm offering it here in case anyone has one that wants another for spare parts. It's in South Cheshire, and I'm not prepared to post it. I don't want anything for it, and if there's no interest in a reasonable time frame it can go for scrap. It's a pity to scrap something like this, but without the gas calibration it's just taking up space.
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