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Sept 18, 2018 9:51:36 GMT
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Although I'm not really looking for a new MIG, I had a look at that eBay link to see what "a decent price" counts for at the moment, and it talks about 16A mains supply. Can someone answer what must be a simple question - is that a "special" socket, or is it just relying on a normal "13A" socket but with a bigger fuse? For space reasons I have to run at the far end of a 65' extension lead, and I'm not sure I fancy it starting to glow.
I'm mentioned in an earlier post, I've got a second-hand Clarke MIG that was £50 on an autojumble, it seems OK but it's not consistently great. I do wonder about replacing it, but then I'm wary of just splashing out ~£350 when it might be my technique.
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Sept 18, 2018 9:45:20 GMT
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ah no, i don't mean behind the shock mount, i mean the spots of rust on teh inner wing in general. Shock mount part will get cut out for sure Yes, it's just because your flap disc can't get into the lower areas where the spot welds are recessed into the panel - it's held away by the surrounding metal. Same for any badly-pitted areas - they might look a bit shiny, but in the pits it may well be still rusty.
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Sept 17, 2018 18:05:58 GMT
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I've been looking at the same thing - my recent restoration is fine, but it turns out there's a pinhole towards the top end of the tank, and because my level sender wasn't working I was filling quite high, which is how I discovered it.
The instructions say that after cleaning, the sealer should be put into the tank, and the tank moved around to allow it to spread out, then the remains (around 75%) poured out and allowed to set, then thrown out. My frugal nature suggests that as I have one tank I know has an issue, another tank of the same age, and a third tank that is probably fine but dates from the mid-80s, I should treat the first tank, take the remaining 75% and use it to seal the second 70s tank, then take the remainder from that and use it to seal the third tank. This minimises waste (which is A Good Thing) and in theory just means I need to buy some extra cleaner.
Anyone think of any flaws in that plan, other than the second 70s tank is fine and maybe I should just leave well alone?
By the way, although their web site doesn't mention it, I called Frosts the other day and they confirmed that the tank sealant kit is compatible with the forthcoming E10 Ethanol that people seem to be getting upset about. I might like them to confirm it in an email, just to be sure, but it sounded like they'd been asked that before.
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Sept 9, 2018 17:45:03 GMT
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A couple from the car park at a local steam event
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Sept 7, 2018 17:55:38 GMT
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Some nice shots there. I had a good look around the cars, but took hardly any photos.
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Sept 2, 2018 18:13:29 GMT
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Yes, a good turnout and decent weather.
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Aug 25, 2018 18:00:46 GMT
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I've heard molasses is a good way of cleaning the inside of a fuel tank, and relatively cheap. Just mix some up (I forget the ratio, but it'll be on the net somewhere), bung up most of the holes and stick it in to soak.
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Aug 17, 2018 17:47:41 GMT
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Weirdly enough rust seems to have gotten a LOT worse since then, even though only fresh gas has been inside since... Even the filler neck is covered in rust... Now you mention it, I've had similar. I checked inside the tank before it went in the car, and it was basically clean. I had to remove the tank sender unit (which has the fuel pickup in as well) after a bit for other reasons, and it was covered in light rust. I've got an issue with the carb valves sticking now, which turns out to be (probably) linked to this getting into them: So I had a pretty clean tank, new fuel pipes, a new fuel pump (which I've had to replace because it failed), an inline fuel filter, a gauze filter in the pump, but this gets into the carbs. That said, the valves should have a filter "hat" on them which is missing, but the other two filters should surely have helped.
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Aug 16, 2018 10:18:41 GMT
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fade away suggests to me fuel... Yes, and me. I had trouble with the fuel line clips I'd used when it goes from solid pipe to hose, turned out that one of them wasn't quite as tight as it needed to be and it was pulling in air. That caused a breakdown with similar symptoms, just lost power and stopped, cranking would sometimes sound like it was going to start but didn't. It had run all the way there without trouble, and failed part-way home. New fuel clips and general checking of connections sorted it. Nothing to see, because between the tank and pump it's all "suck", so no fuel comes out of a loose connection.
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Aug 15, 2018 10:06:36 GMT
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Some really interesting stuff here, and some impressive origami going on. While I was restoring my Sportshatch I was using various restoration threads on DDK for inspiration.
Interesting that you make some stuff in multiple sections - I've been doing the same and figuring that it's not the "proper" way to do it, but just struggling to add some shapes without ruining a panel that's almost the width of the car, so it's good to see that I'm not the only one that would weld on some of the strengthening ribs, for example, as you did above. I'm doing an eighties Audi coupe at the moment, working on the back panel, and I know I should try to make a complete one but it's just too easy to go a bit off-course when nearly finished and ruin the whole thing. At least the Audi seems to be 20swg so it's easier to work, where the Vauxhall was 18swg.
Also great to see the thought of not just buying a panel because it's available. I had a couple of bits of the Vauxhall that I could get hold of, but were quite rare, so I replicated them rather than using the originals. Underbody stuff like the inner back panel and spare wheel well, though, not external panels with a lot of shape in them, my skill level sadly doesn't extend that far.
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That would have been handy earlier: AMK: TDB2300 • Alco: AD1256 • Apec: DSK947 • Aut-X: AXBD1457 • Bendix: 561668B • Bettaparts: BD656S • Borg & Beck: BBD4966 • Brake Engineering: DI955129 • Brembo: 08.5698.10 • Delphi: BG2614 • EBC: D550 • Ferodo: DDF441 • Firstline: FBD455 • LPR: J1017P • Mintex: MDC780 • Motaquip: LVBD780 • National Autoparts: NBD336 • Quinton Hazell: BDC3829 • TRW Lucas: DF1805 • Trupart: BD1830 • Veco: VL680 The Jaguar ones, though these are the dimensions bw have: Part No : RS3156 •Description : Brake Disc •Unit Of Sale : Each •Diameter (mm): 295 •Thickness (mm): 9.8 •Min (mm): 8.8 •HT (mm): 68 •B (mm): 73 •N: 5 •Type: Solid •OE Ref: JLM1830 www.brakeworld.co.uk/brakeworld/buyguide/html/rs3156.htm
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Aug 14, 2018 12:15:46 GMT
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I'm using Heritage Insurance, used to be Norton Insurance. I've not seen a need to change for some time.
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The dimension search tool at brakeworld.co.uk says
SSANGYONG KYRON SUV (06-12) 2.0 XDi Diesel SUV 06-12 R S.DISC SSANGYONG KYRON SUV (06-12) 2.0 XDi (4WD) Diesel SUV 08-12 R S.DISC SSANGYONG KYRON SUV (06-12) 2.7 XDi Diesel SUV 06-12 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON SUV (04-07) 2.9 TDi Diesel SUV 04-05 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON SUV (04-07) 3.2i Petrol SUV 03-05 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON SUV (07-14) 2.7 XDi Diesel SUV 07-14 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON SUV (07-14) 2.7 D RX (186bhp) Diesel SUV 07-11 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON SUV (15-) 2.2 D Diesel ATV/SUV 15- R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON W SUV (13-) 2.0 D Diesel SUV 13-16 R S.DISC SSANGYONG REXTON W VAN (13-) 2.0 D Diesel Van 14-16 R S.DISC SSANGYONG (LCV) REXTON VAN (13-) 2.0 D Diesel Van 14- R S.DISC or
JAGUAR DAIMLER DOUBLE SIX SALOON (XJ40) (93-94) 6.0 Petrol Saloon 93-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJ6 SALOON (XJ40) (86-94) 3.2 Petrol Saloon 90-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJ6 SALOON (XJ40) (86-94) 4.0i Petrol Saloon 90-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJ12 SALOON (XJ40) (93-94) 6.0 Petrol Saloon 93-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJR SALOON (XJ40) (88-94) 4.0i Petrol Saloon 89-93 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJR COUPE (XJ40) (88-94) 6.0 S (318bhp) Petrol Coupe 89-91 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJR COUPE (XJ40) (88-94) 6.0 S (338bhp) Petrol Coupe 92-93 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS CABRIO (80-96) 4.0i (223bhp) Petrol Convertible 92-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS CABRIO (80-96) 4.0i (237bhp) Petrol Convertible 94-96 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS CABRIO (80-96) 6.0i Petrol Convertible 93-95 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS COUPE (80-96) 4.0 (223bhp) Petrol Coupe 91-94 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS COUPE (80-96) 4.0 (237bhp) Petrol Coupe 94-96 R S.DISC JAGUAR XJS COUPE (80-96) 6.0i Petrol Coupe 93-95 R S.DISC or
SUBARU LEGACY SALOON (98-03) 2.0 Petrol Saloon 99-03 R S.DISC (00>) SUBARU LEGACY SALOON (98-03) 2.5 Petrol Saloon 99-03 R S.DISC (00>) SUBARU LEGACY ESTATE (98-03) 2.0 Petrol Estate 98-03 R S.DISC (00>) SUBARU LEGACY ESTATE (98-03) 2.5 Petrol Estate 98-03 R S.DISC (00>) SUBARU LEGACY OUTBACK ESTATE (98-03) 2.5 Petrol Estate 98-03 R S.DISC SUBARU LEGACY OUTBACK ESTATE (98-03) 3.0 Petrol Estate 00-03 R S.DISC
None of the dimensions are exactly as you said, but very close. I always find it difficult to measure round stuff with any accuracy, I'm sure there's a technique.
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2018 10:00:07 GMT by droopsnoot
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Aug 13, 2018 18:44:45 GMT
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Ah, I just wondered if I'd tracked down the CF Ice Cream Van that used to belong to Jet Black, and was used for transport to a lot of early Stranglers gigs. It was roughly in your area some years back. I think I've asked on here before, and someone asked for me on a CF forum too.
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For me it depends on whereabouts in the North West (as the TV North West seems to go from where I am in South Cheshire to the top of the Lake District), and when. As it gets later, weather will be important too. Not sure whether either of these are what you are looking for: Obviously I could only bring one of them, unless your photo shoot is really, really local.
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It's not a K-plate ice-cream van, is it?
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Fair guess, with the "SFMTA" lines on the last image.
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I've heard good reports about ultrasonic cleaning for parts like carbs, but I haven't tried it myself. Sadly when Aldi had them, they didn't look big enough to get anything worthwhile in.
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