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Mar 10, 2013 22:51:46 GMT
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does anyone know the spec of hose i should use for LHM fluid?
it's for the un-prerssurised feed of LHM into a brake master cylinder (on a tractor).
just hoping someone with a citroen, roller or similar knows the material to use and if possible where i can get it from, think the bore is about 4mm
Cheers Brian
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Dec 22, 2012 20:15:58 GMT
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try energas, i signed up for a 5 year deal at the start of this year, it was about £150+vat thats for a 20litre bottle (i think they call it a midi) which is a reasonable size , refils are about £30+vat if you go to a main depot, more if you go to a distributor as they add on an £11 handling fee. even if the main depot seems miles away ring and ask about distributors, there may be one on your doorstep.
watch out for the rent free ones, refils can be expensive and also ask about the charge pressure, some are only about 120bar, the likes of BOC/airproducts/energas will be around 200bar, put simply an extra 50% of extra gas in some cases.
i did some graphs based on cost/volume of gas and renal fees, i worked out that if i use 1 bottle a year the above was best for me, i had to get into about 4 bottles a year to consider a contract with the big boys and the large bottles. the rent free ones were only any good if the usage was 1 bottle every 3 years.
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Dec 22, 2012 17:46:23 GMT
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Wanted:
an empty MIG wire spool (the plastic centre only) 15Kg size
will be used for a garage tidying exercise
midlands (hinckley/nuneaton/warwick area) ideally.
Cheers Brian
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Dec 18, 2012 19:58:16 GMT
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Check out APEC braking, their website allows you to put in key dimensions and will show the options. Unfortunately pcd isn't an item you can search on but thickness, height, and centre bore are, which is a good help
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Dec 17, 2012 18:34:25 GMT
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check the bias box doesn't have the master cylinder attachment points in the same place as a normal pedal, typically you have two cylinders, both moving the same amount of fluid as a single cylinder set-up: so you need the cylinders attaching point to be closer to the pedal pivot so they displace less fluid - otherwise the pedal will be rock hard, you may try smaller master cylinders to make the pedal softer but i think the smallest is 0.625"
also check that the cylinders return fully when the pedal is released, i've had issues where they were just held open slightly, enough to close off the inlet port - all seems well until the fluid heats up then can't return to the reservoir, at which point the brakes dragg and heat the fluid more causing more fluid expansion until you stop and let it cool off.
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Dec 14, 2012 19:50:10 GMT
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Seeing as it's getting proper cold i'm now looking at woodburners and thinking I need some heat in my garage, I have an old log burner that I was given, it needs work but is a good starting point, my dilemma is what do most people use for the flue?
The proper job looks expensive, ( twin wall pipes or a twin wall flue liner) so do any of you just use simple pipe, single skin?
also I don't know weather to go through the roof (pitched tiles) or through the wall, what do people to to stop the roof timbers catching fire?
Cheers Brian
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2012 19:51:01 GMT by Good Scrap
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Dec 13, 2012 21:40:40 GMT
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draw round the outside and inside, then measure and mark out the centre of the two (it will vary a bit as that bend looks a little crushed)
you've just drawn the centre line radius, to check what it is; either find something that matches it, such as a roll of masking tape, dinner plate, can of beans etc.
when you've found something close measure the diameter of the item, in reality you'll only have a choice of CLR's so pick the closest you can
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There's a few vehicles amongst this lot, but the pics are fantastic and what a collection, mostly heavy plant equipment but still will appeal to most of us interested in older things. urbanindiana.com/in_mauzy/in_mauzy.html
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what about a BMW 330D engine?
i wanted to put one of those into an american style truck,
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don't forget for those on modern (post 1997) licences the rules on towing are even more complicated, eg the car must be capable of the plated weight of the trailer even if the trailer is empty, for those on older licences or have done a trailer test, you have more freedom.
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Sept 23, 2012 19:55:17 GMT
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anyone know what make wheels these are, i like them a lot
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Jun 20, 2012 22:16:14 GMT
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you used to be able to get portable machines like the van norman boring bar, try this chap: www.superpowerunlimited.moonfruit.com/#he has a youtube chanel shows a van norman which may be suitable......
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Jun 16, 2012 21:50:29 GMT
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i've used diswasher tablets, basically you want something that doesn't foam, i imagine products like fairy would make a lovely bubble bath.
i've also used kettle de-scaller and filled with boiling water on aluminium blocks to remove limescale
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Jun 10, 2012 21:33:37 GMT
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I think the lathe needs 1" tooling bruce, going from memory, cos my 1-1/4" stuff was too high on the centreheight. Is that the required shank size? What would suit it live centre wise? Moreover, what sort of lathe is it? quite an Early Harrison L5, with MT2 tailstock. toolpost isn't original and i can't remember what size tooling suited it, i had loads of odds and ends, but rarely bought anything new for it.
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Jun 10, 2012 21:28:32 GMT
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depends on your drill size, slow is better, for say a 10mm drill about 500rpm and smaller bits need faster speeds,
any metal cutting tool will eventually blunt, a bit of cutting oil will help but drills prefer low speed high downward pressure over high speed low pressure, this causes heat and blunts them quite quicky.
you can re-grind drills free-hand and once you've done a few dozen you'll be quite good at it, also cheap drills often aren't that great in terms of material spec., better to buy quality ones (even old blunt ones at a car-boot) when grinding have a cup of water handy and keep dipping the the drill to take the heat out, if you get them blue you can loose the tempering.
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Bruce, good to see you getting some use out of the lathe at last
you might want to keep an eye on homeworkshop.org for people selling tooling.
Cheers Brian
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Feb 29, 2012 22:46:21 GMT
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I know there's been a lot of love for your olympic, (and you may well know the vendor in the link below?), i've just seen this link to an olympic for sale and thought there maybe someone who wants to follow it up. www.uphillracers.com/showthread.php/glassfibre-bath-tubs-6013.html?s=4c73c1c2817752637aecb559598655e2&t=6013your's is a great looking car, shame about the engine woe's, but as i once heard someone referring to a highly tuned K-series, ' there's something very british about hearing a motor on the edge of destruction' that was in preference to Japanese power (honda vtec) in lotus elises.
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2012 22:53:46 GMT by Good Scrap
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probably less work to lift the head, then you can drop it into a machine shop to get it drilled on a milling machine, or if you have pillar drill then do it with that. pulling the engine will save the cost of head gasket etc. but cost you in time and mean you will have to drill it out with a pistol drill - perfectly do-able
don't use an easi-out, in my opinion they are only any good for bolts that break when tightening (rare), if it's snaped/seized in then chances are the easi-out will break when trying to remove it, they are propper hard and you will need cobalt drills or worse to get it out. stick to drilling it, centre punch it then ideally use an engineering centre drill then work up to the minor diameter of the thread and picking out the remains with a dart or similar. I've managed to get them well enough centred that the remnants of thread come out looking like a spring.
is there any possible access from within the car? - i knew of someone who used a holesaw through the bulkhead to make access to replace a core plug on a lotus sunbeam to save taking the engine out
if you lift the head and want it drilling out, i have access to milling machine and am in hinckley
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