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fantastic as always,
hope i'm not teaching you to suck eggs, but for leak testing i've used a low pressure air source and soapy water, pressurise tank only about 1psi or so, then brush soapy water onto welds etc and check for bubbles. at least that way you can re-weld if needed without having to dry out water from the inside.
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^ agree with you on the CV and UJ issue there, unless the shaft is close to straight then the UJ will be pulsing the drivetrain - as it is not constant velocity,
in the original installation the two UJ's would be 90 degrees out of phase so the veolcity pulses cancel each other out.
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any reasonable machine shop should be able to help, I've used tunnicliffe engineering in hinckley for the odd car job in the past, but but do most stuff myself these days
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Dec 27, 2011 23:05:57 GMT
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what fantastic projects, and skills.
The Davrian reminds me of this car:
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Nov 21, 2011 21:05:20 GMT
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Aug 24, 2011 22:21:59 GMT
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just pull the springs out with some pliers and replace later on, mine have done another year since i removed them :-)
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Aug 19, 2011 21:51:06 GMT
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i've had a few dewalt tools do similar tricks, if you've had the brushes out completely and checked them then ignore this
the clever devils embed a spring in the brush, so when it wears to a certain level the spring is revealed and holds the brush off the commutator and the tool stops, it's to save the commutator from damage through arcing as the brush wears and the spring pressure is lost, however it usually happens just when you want the tool, so rip out the embedded spring and carry on, just order a new set of brushes and replace at your leisure.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:57:33 GMT
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not very standard, but 1 minute in should float your boat
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Aug 10, 2011 12:33:54 GMT
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i spoke to the vendor the other week, it was bought by a museum in italy or somewhere like that in the end
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Jul 17, 2011 20:10:13 GMT
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do you have to book in advance or just roll up on the day?
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Jun 27, 2011 22:09:07 GMT
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I'm another biased one on here, but I depends on what you want the car to be to you. I'd say a mini is easier to get bits for, particularly panels and tuning bits, but if you like to be hands on, an imp will almost certainly engage you more, the club also is one of the best. anyway here's some pics: ![](http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x295/cov_climax/P1010121-1.jpg) ![](http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x295/cov_climax/Bruntingthorpe06.jpg)
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Last Edit: Jun 27, 2011 22:11:57 GMT by Good Scrap
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Jun 27, 2011 21:42:14 GMT
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i was told epoxy is mega hard when you do come to try and flat it back etc. think i'd use etch primer, then 2K primer and a cheap top coat as short term protection until you paint it proper
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Jun 20, 2011 21:38:31 GMT
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bruce 0.8mm wire is regarded by some as better for bodywork, theory is it takes more current to melt so puts less heat into the panel and helps avoid warping, i'm not totally convinced but had good results with both sizes but now use mainly 0.8mm due to cheaper cost
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Jun 20, 2011 21:33:52 GMT
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be careful going too big, my 185A sealy will munch through fuses when you run at full power for a while, some will need a larger supply (16A as opposed to 13A). any of those welder sizes you mention will have a good duty cycle at the powers you need, i wouldn't go much less than say 160A if you plan on chassis work
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Jun 19, 2011 20:58:21 GMT
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the ford KA might be worth a look, i think it's 4 port so flows through the valve to the heater when on, but bypasses when off and fluid still circulates via the return hose, control is electric, might be plain on/off but if you used it in conjunction with a flow valve and put a micro-switch to close the valve when you select cold it could do the job cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Heater-solenoid-valve-/120740073495?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1cab5017#ht_500wt_1156I've heard of people using them on other cars, but also a chap in the trade claimed they only lasted typically about 10yrs on a KA, but on the flip side not expensive either.
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May 23, 2011 22:35:09 GMT
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you have PM
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May 23, 2011 22:01:52 GMT
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i'll bear it in mind, i'm near leicester/coventry so a little bit far for collection, do you have a price in mind?, people seem to want £12 postage on ebay so i understand that would cost a bit.
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May 22, 2011 19:59:51 GMT
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Wanted, Sierra calipers for solid discs, also need carriers etc,
condition not too important as will be used for mock up purposes initially.
Cheers Brian
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Last Edit: May 22, 2011 20:12:34 GMT by Good Scrap
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try searching here: www.apecbraking.co.uk/search_size.phpput in diameters/stud pattern/ offsets etc. then look at each individual disc part number to see thickness. or see if you can blag an old fashioned book from a motor factor, or request one from the above company
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i use 8mm copper for solid pipe runs (good for 15bar) or you can get soem alli stuff from demon tweeks for similar money. the flexi pipes you can do all of them in rubber, check it's suitable for injection systems (most these days is) and that they are fitted with decent fittings or barbs onto the solid lines. if you use copper for solid lines support regularly as it's prone to vibration and fatigue, also at the ends use a straight solder fitting cut to about 2mm width (or an olive) slipped on to the pipe about 10mm from the end and soldered to form a barb
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