bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Apr 24, 2021 21:09:10 GMT
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Also in other big news, I've managed to get a spot on the Deadline display at the Weekender so a little extra pressure to get it all done in time! Well done An all RR Deadline paddock would be wonderful - I doubt it will happen but it would still be wonderful  |
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Apr 25, 2021 15:01:26 GMT
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Looking good.
Of course the gold wheels get my vote.
One day I will have some on something.
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,006
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Apr 25, 2021 15:29:18 GMT
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Looks amazing...really spot on. Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.
I feel like this Weekender is going to be even more epic than usual since I've spent so long staring at RR build threads during lockdown...can't wait to see them in person.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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Apr 25, 2021 22:38:43 GMT
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bstardchild I just hope my car will be worthy  , no idea what else will be on the display but I'm looking forward to seeing it! grizz I am always a sucker for gold wheels, it's the only way to go! Paul Cheers  Yeah I think it's going to be a bit of an overload seeing loads of cool modified cars in one place again after it's been so long. I know even for me, just driving to and from the bodyshop it felt amazing having not driven a modded car in so long
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 30, 2021 18:47:21 GMT
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I was rather hoping this would be an MOT pass success post but alas things have not gone entirely to plan So last Saturday I got the car back from the bodyshop, got an MOT booked for today which gave me the week to essentially put the interior back in and investigate the Transmission slip. As I was starting with the boot carpets, I actually took a moment to investigate the power aerial while I still had access to it.  I did put a new mast in this a couple of years back when I first had issues with it but it started to make a clicking noise when it reached the end of travel either up or down, basically the mast would be fully extended/retracted but the motor was still going. Opened up the housing to check there was no broken bits of aerial in there and it was all good. So I ended up putting it back together and in the car, I ordered another mast just in case it fixed the issue.  Boot trim in with extra wheel to help flatten out the slightly warped boot carpet.. Got the old mast out, new mast was too small a diameter to fit, helpful ebay seller did send out a replacement based off a photo I sent him of the old and new ones next to each other. The new one came and fits but has the same issue as my old one, so that issue is currently unsolved still. So with the boot trim in, the rear seat went in next which is always a bit of a fight but it went in eventually. Something else I ordered that has no bearing on the MOT but has bothered me for a long time is a new set of numberplates from Retro Plates.  The car has always had a post 2001 front plate, which is subtly not right, a new pair of pre 2001 plates and it will look much more period correct Lastly I tackled the main issue for the MOT which is the transmission fluid. So I changed the fluid and filter before I drove the car to the bodyshop. I refilled using the fill a bit,check on dipstick, fill a bit method; driving over to the bodyshop revealed quite a lot of slip in gears under load. Managed to get it back home once it was done but the internet suggested either I'd overfilled it or the filter seal wasn't sealing so it was drawing in air as well as fluid. So this morning, with a break in the rain, I thought I'd drain the fluid, whip the filter out, refit, refill using the 3.3L suggested in the manual and all would be well. Well I did all that and it still slips... then when I went to reverse back onto my driveway, it wouldn't move in any gear until I revved it up then suddenly it moved (which I thought was usually a symptom of low fluid) Some on the Acura Legend group say that only the OEM filters should be used. Slight issue with that as Honda have discontinued them here I can still get the O ring for the filter from them in the slight chance that the aftermarket filter is fine but with a curse word O ring, but otherwise I'm a little stuffed currently. Annoyingly I already threw out the old filter otherwise I would have washed and reused it. There are suggestions that it could be an issue with new fluid in a gearbox that hasn't had an ATF change in a long time, but I don't know really, automatic gearboxes are not my area of expertise! So MOT cancelled, need to solve this gearbox issue as the first priority! |
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 934
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Apr 30, 2021 19:17:15 GMT
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Ahhhhh......
Ooooh!!
OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Hahah, please no... Found a little bit of good news last night in that the KA9 Legend uses the same part number ATF filter/strainer as the KA7/8 so just need to find a breaker willing to remove a genuine strainer, I can clean it through, install it and we should be back in business... All fingers are crossed |
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Great looking Bodywork, shitter on the shifting though. I do detest auto's but hopefully an easy fix for you.
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,006
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Hahah, please no... Found a little bit of good news last night in that the KA9 Legend uses the same part number ATF filter/strainer as the KA7/8 so just need to find a breaker willing to remove a genuine strainer, I can clean it through, install it and we should be back in business... All fingers are crossed The few KA9 breakers I found were really not very helpful 🙄 Did manage to get plenty of parts through RockAuto though, as the KA9 is essentially a rebadged Acura. Pretty cheap too, so worth a look? I hope for your sake that's the fault...although I'm not convinced... |
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Great looking Bodywork, shitter on the shifting though. I do detest auto's but hopefully an easy fix for you. Cheers, yeah I'm hoping for an easy fix, I've had a couple autos but never really attempted much with the gearboxes so it's gone a bit wrong first time 😂 Hahah, please no... Found a little bit of good news last night in that the KA9 Legend uses the same part number ATF filter/strainer as the KA7/8 so just need to find a breaker willing to remove a genuine strainer, I can clean it through, install it and we should be back in business... All fingers are crossed The few KA9 breakers I found were really not very helpful 🙄 Did manage to get plenty of parts through RockAuto though, as the KA9 is essentially a rebadged Acura. Pretty cheap too, so worth a look? I hope for your sake that's the fault...although I'm not convinced... One breaker has got back to me so far with a pretty high price but I'll hopefully knock it down a bit. The replacement filter I got is a Wix one from rockauto, wasn't even the cheapest one as I wanted to get something semi decent! I'm more annoyed that I threw the original away as it would be easy to put it back in and check, I usually hold onto the old part until I know the new one works (still got the old abs pump assembly in the garage) but the filter was making such a mess of ATF everywhere it went straight in the bin! 🙃 If it doesn't sort it then I'm a bit stuffed.. a mate reckons the torque converter could be done for, rockauto did have a refurbed one but I really don't fancy changing that on my drive 😂 |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1994 Honda Legend Coupe - Gone! 20/4Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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The replacement filter I got is a Wix one from rockauto, wasn't even the cheapest one as I wanted to get something semi decent! WIX filters seem to be hit and miss, I won't fit them myself as I've had mates use them and have issues, PD Passat non start when a WIX diesel filter was installed, fitting the old filter 'fixed' it as did a new Bosch filter so I am wary of them. Is there any other options on quality on RA? EDIT: Just had a quick look myself, the ATP stuff doesn't seem bad, i've used the ATP filter kits with '3rd hand' gaskets on a few AW4 transmissions in Jeeps and they seem nice kits. |
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Last Edit: May 1, 2021 23:44:16 GMT by Rich
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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It’s coming together nicely, I’m sure it’ll cruise nicely when it’s all sorted.
Gearbox wise, not meaning to be patronising, but are you following the proper procedure to set the gearbox fluid level? Most of the time it involves doing it with the engine running, putting the gearbox through all its selector positions (reverse, drive, low, etc), returning to park and then checking level with the engine still running.
The dipstick tube being used for filling is common and use I’ve noticed it can be a pain as there’s already fluid in the tune when you put the dipstick in. I check both sides of the dipstick and use the lowest point where there’s full coverage of fluid as my level, as there can be oil in the tune above the level, but there can’t be air below the level.
The other thing that springs to mind is, are you definitely using the right fluid? ATF specifications can be quite varied. I know that the common Dextron 2 or 3 fluid, will cause slipping in boxes that weren’t designed for it.
As all of this started after a fluid change, personally torque convertor failure seems unlikely. The torque convertor won’t care if the fluid is full of bits of old clutch material or nice and fresh, if anything it should work better with fresh fluid.
If the clutches were heavily worn, it’s possible that the bits of clutch material floating about in the fluid were just enough extra to help them grip together, and changing the fluid has removed this causing the slip, this is the known issue with changing fluid in old worn boxes that you mentioned.
But from what I understand from 5 mins of googling, the Honda gearboxes are unusual for autos in that they use ‘normal’ gears, rather than epicyclic, and have a clutch for each gear. With this in mind it would seem odd to loose forward and reverse gears at the same time due to wear. You’d expect the forward clutches which see a lot more load and use to wear while reverse would be fine.
The fact that revving the car up makes it move, makes it sound like there’s an issue with line pressure. The line pressure is generated by a pump driven off the engine speed, and the available oil flow will increase with engine speed. It can also be governed by the kickdown cable and/or electronic solenoids.
As you’ve been messing with the filter, as you say of it’s not sealed to the system properly and is drawing in air that will mean the pump can’t make proper line pressure. That could also be a filter that won’t flow properly.
If that’s not the problem then check you haven’t dislodged anything else while working on the filter. There may be pipes that are push fit transferring line pressure fluid about the valve body, the kickdown cable (presuming it has one) could have come disconnected, there are likely various O ring seals, make sure anything you’ve moved while changing the filter hasn’t lost an O ring.
Good luck!
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Those number plate changes are so subtle.
I am having a problem with what to put on my S10 which now is getting the new GRZ 733 -late.
American pressed steel or a pair of 9x3 inch plates
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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The replacement filter I got is a Wix one from rockauto, wasn't even the cheapest one as I wanted to get something semi decent! WIX filters seem to be hit and miss, I won't fit them myself as I've had mates use them and have issues, PD Passat non start when a WIX diesel filter was installed, fitting the old filter 'fixed' it as did a new Bosch filter so I am wary of them. Is there any other options on quality on RA? EDIT: Just had a quick look myself, the ATP stuff doesn't seem bad, i've used the ATP filter kits with '3rd hand' gaskets on a few AW4 transmissions in Jeeps and they seem nice kits. Yeah I mostly chose it as it was one of the brand's I'd actually heard of haha, if I can't get an OEM one I'll give the ATP a go though, certainly the photos of all the various filters look damn near identical so it must be tiny differences if some are worse than others It’s coming together nicely, I’m sure it’ll cruise nicely when it’s all sorted. Gearbox wise, not meaning to be patronising, but are you following the proper procedure to set the gearbox fluid level? Most of the time it involves doing it with the engine running, putting the gearbox through all its selector positions (reverse, drive, low, etc), returning to park and then checking level with the engine still running. The dipstick tube being used for filling is common and use I’ve noticed it can be a pain as there’s already fluid in the tune when you put the dipstick in. I check both sides of the dipstick and use the lowest point where there’s full coverage of fluid as my level, as there can be oil in the tune above the level, but there can’t be air below the level. The other thing that springs to mind is, are you definitely using the right fluid? ATF specifications can be quite varied. I know that the common Dextron 2 or 3 fluid, will cause slipping in boxes that weren’t designed for it. As all of this started after a fluid change, personally torque convertor failure seems unlikely. The torque convertor won’t care if the fluid is full of bits of old clutch material or nice and fresh, if anything it should work better with fresh fluid. If the clutches were heavily worn, it’s possible that the bits of clutch material floating about in the fluid were just enough extra to help them grip together, and changing the fluid has removed this causing the slip, this is the known issue with changing fluid in old worn boxes that you mentioned. But from what I understand from 5 mins of googling, the Honda gearboxes are unusual for autos in that they use ‘normal’ gears, rather than epicyclic, and have a clutch for each gear. With this in mind it would seem odd to loose forward and reverse gears at the same time due to wear. You’d expect the forward clutches which see a lot more load and use to wear while reverse would be fine. The fact that revving the car up makes it move, makes it sound like there’s an issue with line pressure. The line pressure is generated by a pump driven off the engine speed, and the available oil flow will increase with engine speed. It can also be governed by the kickdown cable and/or electronic solenoids. As you’ve been messing with the filter, as you say of it’s not sealed to the system properly and is drawing in air that will mean the pump can’t make proper line pressure. That could also be a filter that won’t flow properly. If that’s not the problem then check you haven’t dislodged anything else while working on the filter. There may be pipes that are push fit transferring line pressure fluid about the valve body, the kickdown cable (presuming it has one) could have come disconnected, there are likely various O ring seals, make sure anything you’ve moved while changing the filter hasn’t lost an O ring. Good luck! Aha not at all, there do seem to be various different procedures for different boxes. I've been following the factory manual which suggests checking or filling the fluid warm, but with the engine off. Doesn't make any mention about cycling the gears but I did try going through them all while testing it anyway. The fluid is a bit of a tricky one, the original Honda fluid (z-1) specified for the box isn't made anymore and apparently the newer fluid (dw-1) isn't great for them but I'm using some MANNOL fluid which references both Honda fluid specs on the side so I hope it should be ok.. Yeah I'm not convinced the torque converter is dead, and the car isn't particularly high mileage so my gut feeling is that the old fluid wasn't masking some failure of the internals. Next time I take the pan off I'll get a pic of what it's like, the filter is the lowest point pretty much apart from the bottom of the valve body(?) Don't think I've dislodged anything else but it will be something else to check, and I'm pretty sure I did get the original o ring out with the original filter so I'm not trying to double stack them or something 😂 Hopefully I can get another filter this week and that fixes it! And also hopefully I've not caused any damage from my short drives in the meantime... |
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
Member is Online
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Those number plate changes are so subtle. I am having a problem with what to put on my S10 which now is getting the new GRZ 733 -late. American pressed steel or a pair of 9x3 inch plates Yeah it's harder to judge what looks good when you get into the non standard or more square sizes. I've not ventured too far into custom sized plates but as long as they fit the cutouts in the bumper well it should look good 😁 |
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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May 12, 2021 20:51:29 GMT
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Quick but frustrating update.. Tried fitting the new aerial mast, still makes the clicking noise as before so at some point in the future I'll look into tearing the motor apart and replacing worn gear wheels I expect Breakers of Legends on ebay have been not particularly helpful, one guy did give me a price for the filter but has since gone silent. So I thought I might as well take a punt on the ATP filter, looked decent enough when it turned up  Couple of gaskets in there oddly, the one for the trans pan isn't a 3rd hand gasket but it doesn't matter, also included a new sump plug washer which is nice. Comparing to the Wix and there are some differences    Sadly still no luck when it came to fitting. It's hard to explain without photos but it feels like its in place, but one of the tabs for the bolts will be way off its seat. So it appears that the tube that goes up into the transmission just doesn't fit. I tried both of them without the O ring on in case that was causing it to not fit but no change. Also annoyingly, the ATP sump pan gasket is wrong also..   I NEARLY threw away the Wix one but I've learnt my lesson there So I'm going back to trying to get my one lead on an OEM used filter to come up with the goods, in theory I could try modding the aftermarket filters to fit, but I don't really like the idea One positive thing though, I snapped one of the sump pan bolts last time, but I've found that it snapped just proud of the gearbox casting and is free to spin so I'll be able to get that out and pop a new bolt in |
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May 12, 2021 20:58:40 GMT
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Great news on the snapped bolt Fingers crossed for the filter |
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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May 13, 2021 13:24:21 GMT
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This is fighting you all the way!
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,998
Club RR Member Number: 58
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May 19, 2021 22:03:42 GMT
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Short version: It's fixed! Long version: So last time I was left trying to find an OEM filter. One guy on ebay had said £80 for one but then went totally silent. I then messaged pretty much everyone and anyone on ebay who was selling more than one part from a KA7/8/9 Legend asking if they had a filter, with no luck. Then a new KA9 appeared on ebay being broken in Edinburgh, he wouldn't sell the filter but would sell the whole gearbox for £250, bit much for me really. At the same time, I was reminded of a post on the Honda Legend UK owners FB page where a guy was breaking a KA9 (also in Scotland), he was willing to sell the gearbox to me for £100, so definitely a step in the right direction! Then just as I was getting him to look into cost of couriers etc. a guy on ebay who was selling a KA9 short engine and box got back to me, saying he would sell me the gearbox. £150 and in Lancashire. Figuring it would take most of the week for a couriered gearbox to arrive I set off for Fleetwood in the Yaris on Monday after work   I live near Coventry so this was a roughly 2hr 40min journey each way... Mercifully the M6 was free of any major traffic which was a bit mind blowing in itself. I think the seller probably thought I was a bit mad having driven so far on a weekday evening, and having got back around midnight, it certainly felt a bit mad I do enjoy a road trip to collect car parts but the Yaris is not a good motorway car. Anyway, fast forward to today and I manage to heave the gearbox out of the boot (auto gearboxes are bloody heavy!) and onto a couple of axle stands to drain the ATF.  Then dropped the pan and carefully removed the gold dust that is the OEM Honda filter  Spot the difference time, this is the aftermarket filter  And this is OEM  It's very subtle but the tube on the aftermarket one is just that bit thicker in the metal and bigger in diameter that it won't sit nicely in the box which was causing the whole issue.   I cleaned out the OEM one as best I could with brake cleaner then popped it into my gearbox. Removed the broken pan bolt, to be replaced by a new one from the dealer (which in hindsight I didn't need to order as I've now got a load of spares from the other gearbox ) Pan back on, but before I topped up the ATF, I investigated an ATF leak at the front of the car, which turned out to be a loose union on the cooler. Took it for a drive and was rewarded with no slip and nice smooth shifts  It even seems to have sorted the 1st to 2nd crunch which was my whole reason for changing the fluid in the first place! MOT is booked for Friday afternoon so hopefully I get through that OK then can spend most of the weekend fiddling with some other bits on the list Other non ATF related stuff, when I ordered a couple bits from the dealer, I had to make up the cost for free postage so have ordered some clips for the side skirts  Also sorted a second coolant leak after the dodgy rad cap, which was just the top hose clamp needing tightening  |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Top work, glad it's fixed
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, no idea what else will be on the display but I'm looking forward to seeing it!
Yeah I think it's going to be a bit of an overload seeing loads of cool modified cars in one place again after it's been so long. I know even for me, just driving to and from the bodyshop it felt amazing having not driven a modded car in so long 
It even seems to have sorted the 1st to 2nd crunch which was my whole reason for changing the fluid in the first place!
