gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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There are some fundamentals that have been missed in the experiment and the explanations above. But the results as pure results were interesting and surprising ( I guessed at a few HP max certainly no more 10).
As for the laymen's explanation you negate the fact that draw is from the battery / alternator circuit the time for which is not linear. I.E you can put the power in the battery on over run or in fact at any time and then use this at any time. This is why the theory of electric superchargers is sound but the practicality is only just starting to come to fruition. Also its on demand rather than based on a few factors which are related to but not necessarily directly linked i.e engine bay temp / water temp / rpm.
This is why power cuts for alternators are great for max power.
Why they didn't hook up a Anemometer (windy meter) I don't get as ultimately you want max airflow for minimum hp. But inversely this is direct drive so there is not a lot you can do.
Good video as it even gives you the cue to fast forward over the advert, sponsor bit
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Apr 28, 2017 14:31:34 GMT
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jiminwatford same as any shelter its there to stop the elements getting you to not keep you warm that's what sleeping bags are for. As soon as it gets seriously cold you get condensation so you are better of cracking the windows open to get some air circulation rather than having serious condensation issues in the morning.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Apr 28, 2017 11:50:00 GMT
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I have slept in the back of estates for years when out camping, at parties, visiting friends etc. key Points I find: Block out the light, 5am wake ups with a hangover are not good. An external cover is easiest but you need at least one area inside that you can open so you can look out to see what is going on. Work out where the interior handles are and make sure you keep this area clear. Plastic box for boots left under the car by the door you get in / out off. Personal preference, windows closed as it attracts less attention and pokey fingers in the middle of the night (cars are well ventilated). Work out what you need the next morning and have that to hand not wedged under all your other c**p. As to it being cold as soon as it gets snowing or serious ice better sleeping bags and crack the windows
Regarding Drink Driving , I may be wrong but as long as you can obviously prove your intention was to sleep in the vehicle and not drive it then you are ok. Having the keys in the car is here nor there check Pepo or what ever the site is.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 21, 2017 10:19:10 GMT
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To come at this from another angle and please take this in the way its meant. You are Coded so no issue with your welding but can you teach? The old phrase “Those who can, do. Those who can’t teach” is not true . But it does take a very different mind set and set of skills to do each.
The Gent who taught me during my apprenticeship could set up any of the machines ( Stick , gas, Mig and Tig) and explain exactly what he was doing , how and why. But his previous drinking habits meant his hands were not that stable and the results of any of his welds looked like a bad dot to dot. But he stood on your shoulder and whispered “up / down rod” “ feed the pool” “watch your angles” and knew exactly how to pitch his training at all levels.
If the most inept numpty turns up and tells you he is a world class welder and then tries to weld 2 pieces of wood, do you know how to diffuse the situation so at the end of the time he has paid for he feels that the course was worth while?
I have trained people for many years in house and half of the time it is turning unrealistic expectation into realistic outcomes (and that is for people who are not footing any bills). The other half of the time is explaining for the 100th time the most basic part which 10 minutes before they told you they understood, whilst smiling and saying no I didn’t want my cup of tea you just put your finger in to see if it was hot ( true story).
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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SORRY ANOTHER ESSAY
Any reasonable Trade Coater will follow these steps. 1. Agree on areas to be coated / Uncoated 2. Agree on material to be used 3. Agree on Finish 4. Agree on Colour 5. Quote Price ( Start Job) 6. Remove all coating 7. Remedial work 8. Part neutralised 9. Part masked if required 10. Part coated 11. Any masking and or unwanted coating is removed 12. Partner is fed a pack of lies about how it is far more important than buying food / heating etc.
From the above. 1. Do you want the whole part coated inside and out or do you want areas left uncoated. The whole part will be cleaned but you must specify this other wise the whole part will also be coated. Uncoated areas will add cost.
2. Tell the coater what the part will experience and he will advise the best product he has. Imagine a painter coated your cam cover in black Dulux, well you did ask for black paint??? There are hundreds of types of coatings get the one they have and are happy to apply.
3. Trade coaters are doing lamps posts, fence posts under sea fittings all of which have to be 100% covered to a certain minimum thickness. For out of sight parts this is perfect, for visible parts having a perfect thickness which shows up ever casting mark not so. Make sure they understand the finish you want and they will be able to work out what is required to get it.
4. Sounds stupid but specify, we sell a large number of whites and the cost varies so ask them for the most cost affective based on your ideal choice.
5. Remember this is more often than not a ball park and entirely dependant on 7.
6. This is the bit you think you are paying all your money on. Dependant on the current coating: a. If its an OE coating or dependant on the coaters set up most will chemical dip the part to break down the surface. b. The part will then be blasted to remove any coating down to visibly clean metal. This may remove filler and or thick coatings which then reveal casting marks, damage, pin holes etc.
7. IF YOU HAVE COMPLETED 3 ABOVE RELAX the coater will either crack on and smooth the surface or call you to advise. IF YOU HAVE NOT COMPLETED 3 ABOVE RELAX you coater will carry on and the part will have the surface finish of the moon showing all the casting marks previous damage etc ( Perfectly coated thou).
8. 2 Parts : a. Degrease to get rid of handling greases b. Degas any cast or forged part can have gas pockets which need to be removed before coating. The older the part the more likely. This can be considered an additional step at the cheap end of the market and in reality it’s the difference between the coating lasting 20 years or 20 months or being perfectly smooth or having a 3mm square of little bubbles smack dead centre of the part which makes it look abysmal (and negates point 12 above)
9. Contact flanges, internal bores, threads will all have a perfect coating applied unless you specify that it needs to be masked. If you have not specified it, it will be coated
10. 2 ways : a. Dip : The part has a wire attached to it and it then strung up on a big fancy moving washing line. First it is pre heated then it is then dunked in a big tank full of fluidised powder then the washing line moves the part into a big oven then out to cool job jobbed. b. Sprayed : The part is set up in a booth (the part will be earthed) and powder is sprayed over the part (the part can be hot or cold). The part is then placed in an oven then removed and cooled Job Jobbed.
11. Any masking or overspray is removed. Surface oxidation under the masking will not be removed so polished areas will need some elbow grease.
12. 2 options a. Hope they don’t notice b. LIE say they made you do it.
Trades people are not mind readers, they do what you ask or tell them. If you do not specify they will do what they commonly do which may be far more or far less than you need or expect and you will pay for that (in more ways than one). Trades people do not do it for the love of mankind or for the spread of low’s and shinny stuff. They do it because their bank / partner has told them to do it. A Small percentage of the world may not share your life long love and dedication to a 1983 Ford Shallamadang XLQRT and your trades person may be one of them. DO NOT TRY TO CONVERT THEM.
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Last Edit: Feb 28, 2017 9:51:42 GMT by gib
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Feb 27, 2017 10:05:38 GMT
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Not trying to write an essay but I work for a powder coating manufacturer and our sister company is a trade coater. To the OP. • If you want single basic colour go to a coater and agree on what standard colour they have that you will accept and make sure all wheels are done as a batch (colour can vary batch to batch at the cheap end of the market). • Ask what finishing and prep they will do and what you can do. A lot of trade coaters will strip and coat the entire rim which means you will have to clean up any mounting faces and lug socket inserts. If the faces are going to be hard to clean up pay extra to get them masked of they will understand and do this for a minimal price (its standard procedure). • Try City Wheel Refurbishment in Birmingham, you will find a few horror stories about them but if you do a bit of digging. The stories tend to be about 10 years old or more contrived than they first appear. Over Christmas I had 5*16” bare rims ( Compomotive MOs) stripped and coated with no masking for £20 each with no issue. It took about 30 mins to remove the coating on the mounting faces for each wheel. • If they chemical strip to bare alloy ask about degassing as the requirement varies massively by rim and needs to be considered. In General Powder coating has come on a long way since the egg shell era of the 60-90’s. If you drive a Nissan that is less than 10 years old the fuel filler pipe will be coated by material we manufacture and as mentioned this is rigorously tested. The days of a coating peeling off are largely gone, some curse word gets out but it is limited as selling curse word is not a good trading method these days. Gravelometer Piccie for those interested. Put bit in ( Fuel filler pipes on top) and chuck stones at it for days on end and see if the coating falls off. Humidity tester, scribe the parts and then see if bits fall off whilst its at elevated humidity and check for oxidation under the coating. QUV tester see if it discolours in super duper sunlight. Salt Spray pretend you have left your part in the sea for weeks on end and see if the coating falls off. We also do around 20 standard tests the majority being related to making it not fall of or look like its going to fail. If the base material is suitable and suitably prepared then adhesion and crack propagation / penetration will be far better than any wet coat solution (paint). And these days the equipment and materials used make it very hard to get it wrong. But wet coat is easier and generally cheaper hence they both have a place in the market. The process is a thermal one but the temps ( per heat and bake) are far more tightly controlled than even 5 years ago. The biggest fixed cost for a coater is heating the parts and any trade coater will have the temps as low as they can get away with typically 180-220 C which will not affect a rim. This is the oven temp not necessarily the part temp. (There was an ASA adjudication in the UK a few years back relative to this where a coater stated it was dangerous to coat rims and they were found guilty of “misinformation of some sort” Can’t remember the exact wording). Always the caveat of you can get it wrong but those companies don’t stay in business long as the set up required to coat is not cheap. In answer to a Q some materials can be retouched by heating and apply more material some can't ( wont get in the tech bit as this post is far too long as it is.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Jan 20, 2017 21:14:32 GMT
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Admittedly a 4 speed is better to drive but a 3 speed is not that bad and suits the character of lots of specials.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Jan 19, 2017 10:50:22 GMT
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A water pump and the associated bracket would certainly round of your set up ( as well as a Rev counter take off although these are about the rarest option and a period correct Rev counter is even rarer (1 on the bay at the moment for ~£250)).
The bracket (Known as the Export setup)is just a flat plate with some holes and sleeves at each end for the chassis mounts would be very easy to get cut these days and there is a drg. some where on line that I have seen in the past. More importantly there are no markings on this as far as I am aware.
Water pumps come up for sale every now and then but it would be worth asking around as people are more willing to sell if it is definitely going on a car that needs it rather than just being stored as a spare.
If you do want to sell the engine I have cash and a suitable place for it to go !!!
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Jan 18, 2017 21:52:00 GMT
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You need the rad height as you have no pump.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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To chop the radiator you will need to get a water pump and mounting plate both of which are in very short supply. But based on the other options already on the engine well worth the expense and trouble to get hold of in my opinion. Your double size oil cooler with mounts is very rare indeed.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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A couple of things, you should really clean up the inserts as they look to have a very heavy coating on them which could be an issue for fit and is definitely an issue for long term location of the nuts. STD. inserts are fit for M12, I have experience of these and have D44s currently. If you want I am more than happy to have a look at them and can measure and check against my D44s. I live in Kennington so you can pop over at a suitable time and to be honest I wouldn't mid looking at the barrels, are they Gotti, MADE or some other manufacturer? What are you doing for spigot rings as the CB edge is different from the norm from memory.
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2017 8:32:29 GMT by gib
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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I would be very interested in the Bagherra parts. Can you Pm me with what he actually has and where in the country they are.
On topic do the bottom ball joints they are a pain to do but if you pull the hub and do it on the bench its the best way and considering the pictures from Holland of the Gold Murena that hadn't checked or changed his lower ball joints in a while its cheap insurance.
What electrical connections are made between the car and the engine? I thought Mi16 were engine to ECU and then just power and rev signal from the ECU to the car?
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Oct 22, 2016 16:37:45 GMT
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Thanks for the politicians answer very useful
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gib
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Posts: 163
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Does any one know where to get Grose Jets for Weber carbs?
Also has any one used them as I can find a fair bit of info on them but have no personal experience. I do on the other hand have experience of flooding carbs and can see the benefits. As for the other benefits I think they are a bit spurious but the flooding issue is enough to sell them to me if I can find them.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Sept 30, 2016 13:18:29 GMT
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Hopefully the following will help. I have an excel spread sheet that I use to calculate this info but I have no idea how to share it, so I have just screen shot it. Can you please give me the target RPM as I have gone with 5800 40DCNFs are too big and 36DCNFs are on the large size but you should be able to get away with it. Please PM me as I have various DCNF and parts which.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Sept 13, 2016 14:19:02 GMT
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I have bought and sold numerous classic cars in the UK and a couple in Europe and been involved with many more. These have varied between condition 1-3 but every time they have always been bought on condition / rarity / obscureness etc. V’s Price. I have never once considered matching numbers. As long as the paperwork is straight or with a reason as to why it isn’t then I have never had an issue and the price has only moved marginally to express this, the overall condition has been key. Watching the “Discovery Car Programmes” they all go on about matching numbers. I get originality but the premium attached seems far greater than condition. Speaking to a few friends from a car club they also didn’t get it. One of the more affluent members pointed out that his collection of Jaguars all have the correct type of engine but over the 30 odd years he has owned them he reckons each engine has probably been in at least 2 or 3 cars due to keeping them on the road with spare engines whilst other work is carried out. He could trace the numbers to sort this or get the paperwork changed to show the current state of play. We all agreed that back to matching was the best option but nobody could see this as giving a financial gain and saleability would only increase slightly. So the question why do Matching Numbers attract such a premium in the states that is not in line with condition? Or is this just media ( Discovery Channel) hype. Do any other countries do this? As a caveat my impression is that this is across the board down to condition 3 cars not just top end ( +£100K) motors where I can see the added value and patina. Obscurely matching numbered googled cars.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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I have seen more photos of it spread out in a back garden then actually running thou.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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To answer my own questions just in case any body is interested. Its very simple to do and saves around £20-£40 as this is the price differential between tailed and threaded. Cut the tails off ~1mm above the casting a 6mm drill will remove the meat of the tails which can then be collapsed in on them selves and removed. The recommended drilling size for 1/8 BSP is 8.5mm but use an 8mm as the casting is incredibly soft. Be very careful when the drill is about to go into the cross drillings as these will push the drill of center. As mentioned tapping this material is not the best use plenty of cutting fluid and blow the swarf away all the time. Other wise 1/2 hr job.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 24, 2016 10:17:07 GMT
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As per the 2 pictures below I have a standard Filter King ( Top picture) with fixed tails and no spare out let for a pressure gauge. Is there any reason why not to cut the tails off and then drill and tap the body for taking threaded fittings and a gauge? I don't have a lot of room for a gauge on the rail by the carbs ( I realise this is the best way). Alternatively does any one have a threaded Filter king they may want to swap ( with cash your way)?
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 18, 2016 14:28:31 GMT
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1997 Audi A6 C4 2.5 TDI SE (AAT 110bhp) on a “P” £750 ~210K miles. 12 Months MOT (18/03/17)
V5C in my name at my address (owned for ~ 2 years)
Oxford
New Front Pads for MOT. New rear callipers, pads and discs. New Front shocks. Both front bearings. All at ~ 180K
The entire drive train is in very good condition as this was my daily and I have done ~ 70K miles in the last 2 years so needed it on the button. The Cam, auxiliary and diesel pump belts where changed ~ 190K along with all idlers, tensioners and the water pump. At the same time I did a sump drop and replaced the sump gasket along with checking the oil pump and new crank shaft seals. Last oil change and service at 205K. Injectors have been striped cleaned and pop tested and I can show the balance readings.
This is a 5Spd but I have had a few 6 and 5 spds and find no difference between the 2. Overall you get 40-45mpg when pushing on but drive it like a saint and 55+ mpg is possible.
All four tyres are Continentals Contitec (205 60 16) around 3-4mm but 1 is shouldered. I will include 2 Kumho’s that have 3-4mm tread on them. Full size alloy spare tyre.
The interior is clean and tidy with no major marks.
Alpine Bluetooth Stereo with USB, and Iphone connection
There is a detachable tow bar fitted but I have never used it as it has no electrics attached, you would need to check this before use. They are superb towing cars.
At the moment it’s a 10 yard car, i.e at 10 yards away it looks fine get closer and there are various scratches and marks. Both front wings have seen action but look OK and will last a few years before they get any worse. A spare passenger wing is included in the sale. The air con has no gas as I broke the check valve off. This has been fixed and I can demonstrate the fact it would work if gassed using Vag-Com and it was ice cold before my moment.
No faults in Vag-Com and I am happy to run a scan if you come to view. There are more photo’s if you follow the link and the Steering wheel will be changed for an undamaged one.
Currently Taxed and Insured so test drive with confidence. PM For detailss380.photobucket.com/
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