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Nov 15, 2012 17:21:23 GMT
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In simple terms, The fuse needs to be basically rated lower than the lowest rated component in the circuit.
For example if you are fusing a circuit with wire rated to handle 30A , and a 15A relay then you need to fuse it at ten amps. The same 30A wire with a 50A relay and you can use a 25A fuse.
You obviously need to work out what kind of current draw your components will require and specify switches/relays comfortably above this for a long term reliable system. For long wire runs consider going a few steps up to reduce the voltage drop over the cable.
Automotive blade fuses will melt if ran at close to their rated value for long. If you expect a 9A current draw, spec the wire and switches for > 15A and fuse it at 15A.
If a component specifies a wattage (EG a 60w headlamp bulb) you can convert this into the current drawn by dividing it by the voltage. 60/12 = 5A per headlamp bulb. 10A current draw for a pair of bulbs, so spec the wiring and relays for 15-20A and fuse at 15A.
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Last Edit: Nov 15, 2012 17:26:53 GMT by cobblers
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Nov 15, 2012 16:58:14 GMT
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OK that's enough BIVA talk - the key points have been put across, can we keep the inevitable four pages of picking the rules apart in a different thread? Keep this one for the build details and worry about the red tape elsewhere?
Back on track, this is an absolutely cracking build - the car looks great and the stretch worked a lot better than I'd have imagined. Just extending the back end risked it ending up looking like one of those banham porsche replicas, but it's turned out lovely.
With the MGF subframes being so similar to a metro, if you decide you want it original you can always bolt a 998cc A series in the front, and another one in the back as well for twice the oil leaks!
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Last Edit: Nov 15, 2012 16:59:17 GMT by cobblers
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Nov 14, 2012 19:57:45 GMT
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Tell me about it - I'm skint too that's why it's for sale! Make me an offer if you want?
It's from the downpipe back. Being HKS it's not "quiet" but it's a properly designed exhaust so it sounds nice and doesn't have any annoying drones like custom or cheapie exhausts. My mum drove round with it on her car for a year without complaining and she's not a petrolhead by any stretch of the imagination.
Sticky rear calipers are common on these, as are badly adjusted handbrake mechanisms - give it a run from cold for a mile or two without touching the brakes much, then check see if one side is hotter than the other - do both the wheels spin free? do they still spin free after you've worked the brake pedal a few times?
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Nov 14, 2012 18:40:55 GMT
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Not sure about the squeak, but you are 100% fine decatting the car, both for MOT and engine management wise (they only have a pre cat lambda).
I've got a stainless steel MX5 parts silenced decat for sale if you're interested, and a HKS Super Drager full stainless exhaust. £150 for the lot posted.
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2012 18:42:25 GMT by cobblers
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Nov 13, 2012 21:35:17 GMT
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Metros use the TUD engine
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Nov 11, 2012 18:12:09 GMT
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The ignition switches are prone for failing, and only about a fiver to replace.
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Nov 11, 2012 17:38:28 GMT
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Dremels are "ok" but only if you have pretty low expectations of them. I've used a spot blaster for this kind of stuff and it was pretty good: The kits are only £25 on ebay, handy if you've already got a compressor.
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2012 17:39:28 GMT by cobblers
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If dez doesn't fancy it, try Gary Thomas, he made my adapters and they're brilliant
gar.thoms@hotmail.co.uk
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It sounds like you're replacing the actual headlight bulbs wit these - if that's the case, They won't be anywhere near bright enough to cast any usable beam out of the front even if you do get them to fit, so unless you're after converting some foglamps to an extra set of sidelights you might as well send them back.
Assuming they have about 5 watts worth of decent LEDs (which is a generous estimate) they'll only just be as bright as a normal reversing light.
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Last Edit: Nov 9, 2012 14:35:50 GMT by cobblers
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You'll be fine mate, I can't see the 5-0 even noticing it let along getting their knickers in a twist. The very outer edge of the lamp doesn't do a lot of "projecting" either so it shouldn't make much difference to the beam
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You tried a pressure washer?
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For general overspray mislty stuff use thinners and a stiff nylon /brass brush and a lot of swearing. If standard thinners definitely isn't doing anything, try celly thinners - it's a bit more volatile but might make a mess of the rubber, so try it somewhere inconspicuous.
For the thick bits, I'd scrape them off with a razor at 90 degrees to the surface, just curious as to why isn't this working for you?
I must have cleaned half a mile of painted rubber door and window seals and the above tricks have worked well.
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He hasn't been doing exhausts for a while now,I know this as the guy who built the exhausts for him (known as tucker)left and worked with me at rsr in Redhill. Which is now called sts we do powerflow systems if anyone's interested best to phone and ask for mark for inquiries and prices. Tel 01737 772243
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Awesome!
You could bevel the side of the aly with a roundover bit in a wood router - just use a low speed and really small depth of cut with something like wd40 as lube to stop it clogging. Sounds terrifying but I've seen it done years ago with just a cheapo wood roundover bit and it was fine.
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2012 10:12:56 GMT by cobblers
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Running carbs and a single coil you're kind of stuck with whatever sound it turns out like really - it;ll just turn the coil off when you go over X rpm so it's more likely to be a slower sounding one.
On EFI systems you can do a few types: fuel cut, spark cut, cut X out of 4 sparks, Spark retard, plus hard and soft limits. The super fast bang bang sort of limiter you're after sounds like when I had my megasquirt set at hard cut killing 4 out of 6 ignition events.
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That's wicked! any chance of some larger pictures though?
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Mini, Morris minor, Pre chevette era vauxhalls, Imps, Reliant Robin/Kitten/Rebel/etc etc are all 4 on 4"
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They are a 4 inch 4pcd or 4x98. 4" is 101.6mm
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Wobble bolts are fine, but you need to make sure they are the correct ones to suit the bolt seats in the wheel, and you need to use spigot rings to locate the wheels on the hub centrally.
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