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Just a heads up. Since you'll be messing about with driveshaft now. There was a factory recall for the Ignis Sport driveshaft inner retaining clips. I think originals were failing to stay in location, it might have just been the N/S. Maybe worth checking out just in case. 

You won't find an M111 M62 with a six speed. Only M111 M45's came with a six speed but using that with standalone would still be good but won't produce the same power as the M111 M62.


You could always fit a six speed (W203 c270 cdi has good ratios from memory) to M111 M62. As for using the 16V dogleg Getrag, they are really strong but I don't see any advantage over the six speed other than they have cable drive speedo just like your current five speed. Oh, and good 16V Getrag's are not cheap either. If you want to get something from a 16V, try and  find a  2.3-16 LSD (non ASD) and a 16V steering box, those would be a far better upgrades. The simple way initially would be to stick with your current box and go from there, you can change boxes anytime.

Just for reference, the M62 with a 220mm crank pulley (standard 195 mm iirc) and milled down S/C pulley from 94 mm to 87 mm (keeping the clutch operational) will give a solid 13-14 psi @ the T/B and it would be still be below  maximum rev's . That would be 280 bhp + with the right size injectors & intercooler. But it would ideally need to be ported to keep down IAT's.   

As for the poly bushes, as I said previously it's partly personal preference so don't take my view as gospel. You can always try the poly and if you don't like them, it's no biggie to fit the rubber one's instead.

And you're spot on about the Merc suspension, it's first class especially the five link rear end - the basic design is still used by Merc to this day. I'm about to start renewing my rear suspension bushes including the diff and all the arms too, they're going to be all done with good quality rubber but the front rear sub frame bushes will be Meyle HD one's.

Bear in mind I'm older than you and my back sometimes ain't great

Yep, as loudsam said there's no need to fit those plates. The only thing the sub frame requires is good bushes and I wouldn't bother with poly one's, good quality Lemforder or Meyle HD will be more than enough. If you want to go poly anywhere on the rear the lower arms is the place.

This 100%.

Spot on. 


Also remove all the lower door cladding's as these are great at hiding rust and they are rust traps too. While you're at it remove the bumpers also. 

That's a very clean looking motor. Well wear & enjoy.

I've tried a good few different brands over the years. I'm not a detailing fanboy so maybe it's no surprise I found no difference between the leading/popular brands, all seemed to do a good job. Having said that I wouldn't be surprised if some are better than others but to find out what's better/best I reckon I'd need to try different brands on the exact same car. That's unlikely to happen.

Now, when looking for a leading/popular brand I shop by price. Currently I've got Autoglym stuff.

+1

My heart goes out to you. But that seems rather a surprising problem. A full and proper inspection should be carried out especially with the suspected VVTi issue you reckoned the car had when you originally bought it.