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Car back on axle stands but I'm happy to report just for a diff oil change, new alternator and drive belt. The original alternator bearings were worn and became even more noticeable since I replaced the T-chain. I mentioned previously I was trying to find the correct resistor for the IAT signal to the ECU. I may have cracked it, a 1.2k 0.5w seems to have done the trick, which means no timing pull @ the preprogrammed IAT of 35C which is 3.5 degrees and equates to a loss of c.30 bhp. So, with a bit of luck I'm hoping now it's just a matter of getting on and driving the car over the summer. If I don't update it will be a matter of no news is good news!
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 21, 2024 20:37:34 GMT
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Says £265k in the advert btw….😳 Oh, worse again.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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£260K !!! 'If you haven't got anything constructive to say, don't say anything' . . . I haven't. So I won't Well on a positive note it's 256k, not 260k! 😁
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 16, 2024 20:25:07 GMT
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Oh, that looks the business, really like the blue too. Great stuff.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 15, 2024 20:23:51 GMT
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It looks fabulous.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 11, 2024 21:39:11 GMT
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How about this? I've had not one but two wins in the one day! Fitted the new gear linkage bushes and refitted the propshaft. The gear shift has improved beyond my expectations and the driveline vibration is gone. Think I'll buy a lottery ticket! Car more or less ready to hit road on May 1. Looking forward to clocking some cross county miles, I'll be doing a few 350-400 mile trips.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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I like this car and the thread, but hell man you've spoiled it now by not using enough lacquer! Come on get you're act together... Looking great as usual.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Eventually I got the propshaft U/J replaced, that's the good news. Upon inspection by the repairer they didn't think the notchy movement in the U/J was enough to cause the drivetrain vibration even though it was obviously worn. Only one way to find out is by fitting shaft and driving. But, I'm going to hold off doing that as I decided while the shaft is out I'd have easy access to replace the gearbox shifter link rod bushes as these have seen better days. So, I'm hoping to have the bushes within a week. Cleaned the shaft of surface rust, treated it and added some go faster gloss black, yeah I was at loose end one day! Fitted a new central bearing and carrier. I also cleaned & greased up the splined yoke (covered by the plastic bellows), and both central alignment bushes at each end. Highlighted the factory alignment marks (just to be sure the shaft was aligned correctly) and smeared grease around the new U/J for a bit of protection from road grime and rain, probably pointless but it's done now. Here's two of the three gearbox shifter rods. The large bushes are rubber which attach to the gearbox itself, these had a lot of play in them, while the smaller nylon/plastic bushes that attach to the gear lever assembly were worn but not as bad. There is an option to buy brass or delrin aftermarket bushes which I may get at a later date. I haven't had a vacuum brake bleeder for yonks, used just a hose and jar with somebody else pumping the pedal. Came across this Chinese vacuum bleeder kit locally, reckoned for the modest price I'd give it a go. It's rubbish! Avoid if you see similar.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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I could be interested in the maf clamp. I fitted my spare ported supercharger with smaller pulley, went to fit the crank pulley extension and found out its the wrong size, its for a facelift EVO engine I think. Id imagine ill need a maf clamp when I get a crank pulley. Though I am thinking of getting an Ecumaster DET3, as I can use it to do a MAF to MAP conversion and it will tidy up my boost pipes. I should be able to set a voltage limit on it too to not trigger the fuel cut. Might be able to limit the iat voltage through it too. All comes down to price really, DET3 is 250 and then the hassle of wiring it and trying to figure out how to set it up. I just finished polybushing my rear end and fitting solid steel diff mount bushings, made a massive difference. Bought h&r anti roll bars but have yet to fit them. Trying to get my car driving good, got it tracked and my front passenger caster is still off unfortunately. I hit a kerb drifting a roundabout in it like 3 years ago and it still doesn't drive straight, I thought replacing my control arms would fix it but the wheel is still too far back, really hope I didn't bend the chassis. Cant see a bend in it but I cant see how else my wheel could be pushed back. I cant imagine getting the chassis jigged will be cheap. Yep the best way to go is standalone for max performance. The downside besides cost is you'll possibly loose ABS, Brake Assist and Traction Control, still from what I've heard it's not an issue for everybody. The other downside is rolling road time, I know people who's spent a lot to get the ECU tuned correctly. I won't advertise the Split Second voltage clamp just yet on the Benz forum in case you want, it's far from loads of money anyway. Oh, getting suspension right is key, the difference transforms the car. I avoided using poly bushes just stuck with rubber, suit the driving I do but would opt front lower wishbone poly bushes next time round. I'm guessing the front wishbone pick up points to chassis are bent after you're accident. You don't need to get chassis professionally checked. Just get the car on totally level ground, jacked up with the wheels off. Use a plum line at several points from the chassis to the ground and measure all the distances in all plains. Do check the hub come arm to the top wishbone, if you have a spare one you'll quickly enough know if something is wrong there. There's a possibility the top wishbone bushes are shot or that arm is bent. A bent shock could do it too as it's independent of the spring.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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A great looking car the E211 and they drive extremely well. Regardless,that was a lovely gesture. Good on you,Dan.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 25, 2024 20:14:22 GMT
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Great progress.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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The car is really coming along and it's always nice to have an exhaust system sorted out permanently. If it's any consolation, you're not thek only one who thinks costs have become silly. Keep up the good work.👍
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 13, 2024 22:36:30 GMT
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No cigar...
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 10, 2024 22:43:35 GMT
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I’ll follow what you did with the maf clamp and iat resistor, then just try to get it to fuel alrightish with bigger injectors and adjustable Reg. I forget to mention, I have a spare, almost new Split Second MAF adjustable voltage clamp unit. Let me know if you or your buddy are interested.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Mar 10, 2024 22:39:51 GMT
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So, this new found extra power after doing the T-chain, overhauling head and some extra Supercharger porting is great, car was flying. But, what does more power do? Answer, find parts that are on their way out and it does it quickly too! I had a drive train vibration develop very quickly in just over a hundred miles. After crawling under car and checking all the obvious I couldn't find anything amiss with the propshaft, suspension or the rear subframe. I suspected it was propshaft related and removed it, everything looked perfect and there was only 40,000 miles on the rear rubber coupling and centre bearing assembly. The front vibration damper and rubber coupling were original but in perfect condition. After removing the prop on closer inspection reveled the UJ/Hardy Spicer was notchy in both direction planes. Relief that I found something wrong. It's sealed unit which I get a specialist to replace and also check the shaft for balance. Fingers crossed I found the issue.
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2024 22:46:01 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2024 16:16:41 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Hi guys, Let's talk about grease! I sometimes get confused on what is what when it comes to choosing a suitable grease. I've been chasing a driveline vibration and removed the propshaft for a proper inspection, found the Hardy Spicer is worn (notchy) and the Central carrier bearing is not great. Hopefully the problem will be solved when both these parts are replaced. But before I put everything back, including heat shields and exhaust system I want to grease up the two central alignment bushes on each end of the prop. Can anybody advise on what grease to use? Thinking of some type that's possibly on the thick side (high viscosity) and long lasting. BTW, I don't know if it can been seen in the photos, the bushes actually have a seal built in to retain grease. Thanks in advance.
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2024 23:17:23 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 18, 2024 22:08:56 GMT
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Good to hear you find the thread interesting. I often wondered was there any other C230 Kompressors on the road, surprised there is as they were not popular, people buying new tended to go for the C280 or the C250TD if they wanted a bit more power than the base models. It will be interesting to see how your friends conversation goes as there's been many blown engines over the years when dumping the S/C and going turbo. Can you remap the Bosch ME2.1 ECU?
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Last Edit: Feb 18, 2024 22:11:46 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Feb 17, 2024 21:45:32 GMT
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Wow, an Evo crank. I bet that wasn't too easy to come by?
200/200, must be awesome and guessing there's plenty of torque in the lower rev range.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jan 29, 2024 21:19:26 GMT
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Yep, it's a different from the norm. A nice change from the usual BMW's etc. Mind, it was a learning curve (supercharged & canbus),in the big scheme of things they're not popular to modify compared to usual stuff.
I have it on a classic car policy, limited to 5000 miles a year which suits me fine and it's not costly.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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