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Aug 16, 2020 20:27:34 GMT
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Arrived on Thursday...1969 Simca 1200s. One owner family since new. Spent the majority of its life in the sunny climate of Portugal before being sold to a collector in Holland (who it took me over a year to get him to agree to sell it to me). Never been apart or welded... Had a bit of paint, but never mind. Always wanted one since I was 11-years of age and used to look at them in the Simca dealership across the road from my Junior school. Will post more pics later That's lovely. Well ware and enjoy. Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Hi there rMurph. How's it going, are you smoking tyres yet?
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Great work, love the crackle black finish you choose +1.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jul 29, 2020 21:05:24 GMT
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Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jul 25, 2020 23:20:34 GMT
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Nothing like a good news story, nice to hear. At this rate you're only concerns will be keeping rear tyres on it and watching out for speed cameras! Rock on.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jul 21, 2020 23:37:12 GMT
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Well done, a lovely looking original Bug.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jul 17, 2020 23:06:41 GMT
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What are those? Ha, ha. Great to see all the progress. You're going to have a proper blast driving it. Rock on!
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2020 23:07:13 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jul 17, 2020 21:24:24 GMT
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A little running report after covering a 1000 miles over the last month. No photos just waffle!!! The car is pulling like a train with 7 psi boost at only 2500 rpm, just over 10 psi @ max rev's. Fuel trims are good, ST staying around 0% and LT at -5.5%. Inlet air temps are o.k., usually 8C/45F above ambient off boost and anywhere between 15-25C/59-74F above ambient on boost. The new I.C.and the CAI are no doubt helping but the 100% larger I.C. that I had previously installed produced better IAT's (at a loss of some boost pressure). I still reckon a 50% larger I.C. than stock would be ideal. Handling, is better than ever, the larger A/R/B's have made a bigger difference than I first realized. There's less intervention from the ASR, less flashing of yellow lights on the dash which is nice. Still, I've noticed the Yoko Advan Sport's are wearing fairly quickly on the rear, they'll need to be replaced in the next couple of thousand miles. The ride height is still slightly higher prior to replacing the rear suspension bushes, and the shocks set one click softer. I'll revisit adjusting height but it will do for the next few months, probably go to 2 nib front and 3 nib rear spring insulators rather than the 3 front & 4 rear currently fitted. There's now 2 degrees front camber with 1.5 rear. No doubt the suspension setup could be improved upon but it would need somebody that knows what they're doing unlike me! So, I'll live with the way things are now - ignorance can be bliss! In the other news while checking for any noises from the front of the engine - like a little timing chain wear (not urgent as its very minor at this stage) but that will end up being a major job for me. S/C out, head off, manifolds off ,front cover off and loads of other stuff. I'll overhaul the S/C at the same time and get the head cleaned up too along with fitting a new water pump etc. Deffo going to be a winter project. Anyway, I checked the belt tensioners, idler, water pump, alternator, fan clutch and PAS pump. All were good, no worn bearings except for the alternator, it had seen better days. Time to change it, I had look around for an off the shelf replacement which became bewildering with massive differences in prices. Luckily, my local repair guy offered to fully recon it at a reasonable cost. Other than all the waffle above the car is running good, all engine parameters are within spec, the induction noise from the new CAI is slightly louder but only marginally, happy with that. The overall handling is great even if it's slightly less comfortable on poorer/bumpy road surfaces, a trade off I'm more than happy to make. There's a better steering feel too, it's more alive. The bad news is, I hit some road debris at high speed, don't know what it was but it sure made a loud bang under the car, on inspection it damaged one of the cats (twin cats side by side) which causes a rattle on cold start up - really annoying. So, I'll need to sort that out. The easiest/best route at the moment seems to be, get the damaged cat cut out and have a Magnaflow universal cat welded in. The again, this could be an opportunity to have a de-cat pipe made up, loose a little weight (down pipe & cats weigh in at 10.5kg) while possibly gaining a little power. We'll see..
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2020 21:27:58 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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I always liked the 7 slots, the same or very similar design as the 928's. Go for it!
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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On eBay: SUZUKI ALTO SZ4 1.0 PETROL LOW MILES 26,400 2012 62 PLATE PARKING SENSORS, CAT S £1350.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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If the engine, g/box and body are good then all that it should require is service items just like the shocks you mentioned for example. As for the rad, it's a long term service item, the same goes for the Cat. As already mentioned , the devil you know is better than the devil you don't...especially if you are considering a cheap replacement for this current car.
Then again I could be talking a load of rubbish ^^^.
How's your luck generally? Good? Keep it.
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2020 20:14:59 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 26, 2020 22:36:46 GMT
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Yeah, ambers for the win.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 25, 2020 12:16:38 GMT
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You are  in for a long wait before anybody with any relevant knowledge will have the balls to answer that.... Hmmm. you can use it. You just can't torque it to the same level as may be required as stainless steel is weaker, has a lower fatigue limit etc - eg tightening torque for an M10 grade 8.8 non-plated mild steel bolt is 58Nm For an M10 A2 stainless bolt its 37Nm.  Considerably lower. I would not use stainless in anything taking an important load or being vibrated as a direct swop for a mild steel fastener - your average car manufacturer doesn't tend to go oversize on fasteners as they cost more money, so to downsize their capabilities is playing with fire. As a design engineer, if I needed stainless, I'd look at the load and increase size to deal with it. Thanks for your comments. Does the same apply to using a S/S nylock nut on a steel bolt, say where the bolt shaft is under pressure while the nut is just a retainer?
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 24, 2020 23:46:01 GMT
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I'd be interested if anyone can answer whether it's ok to use a stainless nut on a 8.8 steel bolt +1.
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Last Edit: Jun 24, 2020 23:49:38 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 24, 2020 22:52:34 GMT
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Bookmarked.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 23, 2020 21:01:08 GMT
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Looks great, really clean too.
I remember a dealer in Greenford, West London selling the exact same spec cars back in the late 90's and all of them sat higher compared to the Euro spec models. He always had a good few at any one time and seemed to sell them fairly quickly.
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Last Edit: Jun 24, 2020 14:15:25 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 23, 2020 20:45:56 GMT
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Just came across this thread, great reading.
I have a question that hopefully somebody will be able to answer.
What about using stainless steel nyloc nuts on steel bolts (suspension, mounts etc) where the nut is only acting to retain the bolt in place while the bolt takes all the strain? No, aluminium casings involved. Hope the question makes sense.
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Last Edit: Jun 23, 2020 20:49:47 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 21, 2020 21:43:25 GMT
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so ive heard so much regards whats best i remember years ago using proper red lead on the inner sills on a mini and i know that pretty much the car rusted around them but not the sills ive read epoxy primer por15 ect ect whats the best stuff to use and if one could still get proper red lead primer [using proper ppe ect is it that good or was i just lucky I just happened to be on the Frost site today and had a quick look at their primer products. If you've got an hour or tow to spare... I'm not too sure but this could be a case of 'less is more' !
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2020 23:16:37 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 20, 2020 23:43:39 GMT
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I'm sure there's several great anti rust primers out there but over the last few years I've using Owatrol CIP with great results even after six years. There's also a marine version too. Wouldn't bother with anything else now. As they say: the devil you know... www.promain.co.uk/cip-corrosive-inhibiting-primer.html
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Jun 10, 2020 22:31:32 GMT
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Wow, the difference a bit of paint has made! As rallyboy said, black hoses will be the job. Mikalor do black stainless steel hose clamps.
And when funds allow maybe consider two smaller I.C.'s, one in each corner mounted behind the bumper using a link pipe with the fog light openings as inlets.
Anyway, great to see it coming together.
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2020 22:39:42 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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