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Sept 8, 2021 17:00:39 GMT
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I have took it off and blanked the hole. It works much better now. The hydrovane is happy to start while under pressure.
Only down side is removing this seems to make the one way valve vibrate a little annoyingly. Not sure why. It didn't do It when the valve was shut, which is the same as having no valve at all.
The only slight annoyance with the system now is the pressure gap on the power shut off switch. There is a 2 bar gap between off and back on. That's fine of your running the receiver at 120psi, but running it at 70psi means it drops to 40psi before kicking back in. Would be nice to be able to adjust start and stop points. On at 60psi, off at 70 would be nice. I don't know if pressure switches can be had like that though.
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2021 17:02:03 GMT by VW
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Sept 8, 2021 15:39:39 GMT
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The only use for the valve I can think of is so the pump isn't starting against any compression. The hydrovane doesn't seem to care.
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Sept 8, 2021 15:22:35 GMT
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Been mix and matching compressor parts and have a couple of questions. Basically, I have a very noisy 1.5hp sip compressor. I also have a very quiet old hydrovane. This one The hydrovane has no receiver and is designed to run constant. I thought it may work better for me with a receiver So I took the sip apart and have created a hybrid. It works well. I turned the pressure switch down to match the hydrovane 70psi maximum. All good. But the sip stuff has 3 valves. The one way on the tank, a safety valve, and the one below. It's this one I'm unsure about. It stays open untill the receiver has 20psi. Why? Then, when it reaches full pressure and switches off the compressor it vents the compressor down to 0psi while leaving the tank at 70psi. That's all well and good but as the hydrovane doesn't create instant pressure as well as the old sip pump it takes quite a while to make the 20psi to shut this valve. I was going to taken it apart and see if I can get it to shut at a lower psi but figured I'd find out what it's even for before I mess with it. Once the hydrovane switches off it vents itself down to 0psi anyway so I'm wondering if i can just take this valve out? Secondly, the old sip motor. Is this really a 1.5hp motor? It looks a little small for 1.5hp. I'm asking as I have this old grinder which I was going to set up as a polisher, but it only has a 1/4hp motor. I was thinking of stripping/cutting the pump stuff off this and rigging it up to this grinder. Suitable casing would be added. Any thoughts?
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Aug 30, 2021 16:05:01 GMT
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I posted this elsewhere, to give an idea of scale: It's hard to comprehend. The eye of this storm was the size of Bristol. That's the calm section in the middle where not much happens. The primary eyewall is where the storm begins. That's the fastest moving wind, particularly in the eastern side. That causes straight-line wind of high speed, and the disturbances at the edge spawn multiple tornadoes. That was about 10 miles wide, with high winds and much rain. Then there's a gap of calmer drier air about 10 miles wide again, then a 30 mile wide primary feeder band which is more high wind and much more rain. Then that just sort of repeats outward until you reach the edge of the storm, which has more tornadoes. That outer band was about 200 miles wide, with rain clouds out a further 300. So, at the core you have a wall of wind strong enough to rip a Portakabin to shreds and pick up a 44 ton truck and dump it on its side, pull a metal roof off and pull down a solid 100-year old oak. What it also brings is water. The wind pushes the ocean inland for about 30 miles, some places 15-18 feet deep, which takes a few days to drain away again. That is hugely destructive. In short, if you were to transpose this to the UK... Southampton is leveled, in its entirety. Fareham is 8 feet underwater at the lower points. Bournemouth is mostly without power and has damaged roofs with downed trees. Weymouth has downed power lines and tree branches. Exeter is on a state of emergency as the river is reaching the top of the banks. Tornadoes have damaged significant portions of Hastings, Eastbourne, Brighton. Folkestone is flooded from heavy rainfall. Reports of localized flooding in Calais. Winchester, Basingstoke and Reading have severe damage, missing roofs, collapsed buildings. Two-thirds of London is without electricity. Oxford is flooded from excess rainfall. The following morning Milton Keynes is experiencing fallen trees and heavy rain, power outages as the wind begins to lose energy, with straight line wind speeds of 50-60 mph. The next morning, heavy rain floods Hull as the system moves outward. Does that help for scale? Id move! Can you even get insurance cover against this? Seriously though, good luck, hope it's not too bad!
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Aug 29, 2021 16:45:55 GMT
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Good result, but it's roadworthy without lights so what was his problem!
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Cables are easy enough to make/alter. Means you can add an inline brake switch if you wanted too. A brake switch? You vastly overestimate the quantity and complexity of the electrics in this thing! Ha ha! That said, it could be a good idea. God, next thing you know I'll be fitting a speedo.....madness! This might be worth trying. 2mm cables, instead of bike cables, which are 1.5/1.6mm. Should be a good bit more positive. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304016431955?hash=item46c8ca9b53:g:T3sAAOSw8yVgtL23It's daft - when I searched for heavy duty brake cables I drew a total blank. Just have to look for Bowden cables and the world (of cables) is my oyster. I'd bet these thicker cables are closer to what was on there originally. Might even go thicker. My 1954 velocette is a 500cc 'touring' motorcycle and even that had no brake light when new! Anyhow, the inline switches work well. Rear brake switches are easy but I use just the front alot so it's nice to have a brake light, especially when you have no mirrors or indicators.
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Cables are easy enough to make/alter. Means you can add an inline brake switch if you wanted too.
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Aug 20, 2021 22:34:03 GMT
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Loving this.
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Aug 20, 2021 22:31:12 GMT
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Boil the fuel tap. It swells the corks up again and helps it seal. My bike has 2 fuel taps, both 70 years old, both on the original corks, neither leak! Don't have to take the corks out, just boil the whole thing. Give it 5 or 10 mins to make sure all the air has found a way out etc.
Kickstart sounds like a return spring issue?
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Last Edit: Aug 20, 2021 22:31:35 GMT by VW
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Aug 20, 2021 10:56:41 GMT
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It's back together. All seals replaced, filters cleaned, fresh oil and a repaint if the motor in crackle black. 're greased the motor bearings too. It runs well. It only made 60psi before blowing off the safety valve. It made 80psi before I took it apart, but was getting noise. The spring on the safety valve looks to have been cut so I spaced it back out untill it cut in at about 85psi. It all seems happy like this. It's perfect for tyres, blow guns, and spraying. It won't run air tools though. I didn't think it would though. I never use any anyway. I'm curious though, so I think I'm going to see if I can adjust the cut if switch on my old noisy sip to work at 80psi, then see what happens if I link this up to a receiver. I think its 25l. I don't think it will really have much benefit but I'll dig it up and see.
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Aug 19, 2021 12:57:51 GMT
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A bit more reading tells me the route I was thinking is only narrow band and won't tell me much of anything. I need wide band and bought as a set. Seems about £150-£400 is the price range. Maybe I'll try traditional ways first.
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Let us know how you get on. I had to rebuild some broken find on a head, I bought some aluminium mig wire and some pure argon and built them up with weld. It was alot easier than I expected, so if the rods don't work that's always an option.
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Last Edit: Aug 23, 2021 7:15:57 GMT by VW
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At some point soon I'm going to need to do some carb jetting. New ground for me this, and I've no clue about afr gauges, but thought one might help. Had a look and they seem to mostly be quite expensive but with the usual cheap Chinese stuff also available. Are cheapos any good? Will be for sorting the jetting on a 1950s amal carb so we're not talking highly accurate mixture setting. I have a spare header I can put a lambda sensor in, I assume that and power are all that's needed?
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2021 8:56:54 GMT by VW
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Aug 16, 2021 22:41:24 GMT
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Browsing completed listings on ebay and I found this! Same 100psi version as mine, with the same catch tank. Pressure gauge is on the receiver though, but shows this pump is ok being used with a receiver. Or at least devilbiss thought so!
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Aug 15, 2021 22:15:35 GMT
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Ooops never noticed that, sorry. Try this one LinkyIf it actually bleeds the excess off rather than just restricting flow then yes, that will do. I bet it's just a spring loaded screw valve though, with a gauge. I don't need the gauge. The proper prv's I've been looking at ramp up and down with very controlled rates rather than just opening and bleeding. That's why they are so expensive. I've seen others like than one you link that have 2 knobs, one to set the flow pressure and one as a safety valve too. No one want to actually tell you exactly what they do and how they achieve it though. I have a lathe, maybe making a decent valve would be a nice little project.
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Aug 15, 2021 21:00:17 GMT
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Aug 15, 2021 19:52:12 GMT
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I guess constant bleed air tools just always pass a small amount of air, so any way I introduce a constant leak will be fine. If that leak is adjustable, I can also control pressure at the tool.
Ok, decided, unless anyone has a better idea, I'm just going to make a fitting that takes an old carb air screw with a taper to give adjustable bleeding.
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Aug 15, 2021 19:36:34 GMT
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Right, a psv is £8, prv vary from £100-£800!!!!
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Aug 15, 2021 19:34:56 GMT
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Found a good explanation of the difference tameson.co.uk/relief-valve-vs-safety-valve.htmlSeems I could use a prv as the regulator then, will let me alter working pressure, provide the constant bleed it needs, and I'll rely on the internal safety valve if it has one. If it doesn't, maybe the badly cracked air line will act as a safety valve instead 😂 Only kidding, if it has no safety valve, I'll fit one. But I'd be surprised if it doesn't have one!
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Aug 15, 2021 19:26:50 GMT
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I think, but am unsure, it may have a safety valve somewhere anyway. There are 3 spring loaded valves in this but I'm not sure what they all do. It may make more sense when I put it all back together. I think some control the oil circulation through the filter, pumped by air pressure.
What's the functionality difference between a psv and a prv?, mechanically speaking The psv I've been looking at is just a plunger with a spring that lifts at a certain pressure. Is a prv different?
It only needs a constant bleed, I can always just crack the water trap valve open 😉. At least I'd never have to worry about draining it!
I've been thinking about if it will need a regulator or not too, but they never use them. If I have a bleed valve in the system anyway I can just open that more until only the pressure I want is at the tool.
But I think I'm trying to get it to do things it's not designed for. I'll just use it and see how it goes. It's more just fun and cool than a compressor I'm trying to get to do all I need.
As far as the prv valve goes, can that just be a screw valve you open as much as you want? An adjustable vent to atmosphere. That's easy to do. The gauge on the front will show the psi at the tool as the whole system.is always at the same pressure.
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2021 19:28:40 GMT by VW
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