|
|
Sept 13, 2021 18:57:28 GMT
|
Pitting is what you are looking for, just the bottom really as that's where the water sits. If there is a port into the cylinder head, this may be a compressor where, the motor runs continuously and the intake valve is held open once pressure is reached, to reduce the load Ttfn Glenn I'll read the manual, I'm sure it says something like that can be fitted, or it can be fitted with a pressure switch.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 17:11:41 GMT
|
First thing to do is remove the large bungs in the side of the receiver, so you can inspect the inside for rust. The valve at the bottom is for draining moisture from the receiver. The line from compressor to receiver would probably have fins to cool the air. Often industrial compressors are set up with multiple outlets to serve different needs Ttfn Glenn Finned! I don't think this one was, he said it was just a pipe and now of the (admittedly different) ones in the litterature have finned pipes (i don't think, ill check) So the side tap was probably just to also send air to somewhere else, that solves that. Looking at slightly different ones I think the connector on top of the pump goes to the pressure switch. I'll get those bungs out and have a look. I don't expect it to be shiny, so what am I looking for? Pitting I guess? Hopefully it will either look fine, or look terrible. That way the decision will be easy and I don't have to worry about if it's ok or not. I guess I could get it tested, but I assume they will just say it's no good purely as it's 46 years old!
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 17:13:48 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 17:09:17 GMT
|
I had one a few years ago, converted oil into oil mist, totally knacked, so it Evolved In what was was it knackered? Just wondering what to look out for. This seems to have not done much work though, andnthenlinknpipe was missing so he could drop oil in it and turn it over to stop it seizing. It's been in his family from new and he always ment to put it back together but never got round to it. It's basically just how you want to buy a classic car, unfortunately it's a compressor though 😂 Do you remember how it all links up? Edit, I guess there are only 3 real points of failure, big/small end knock causing noise, rings/bore meaning low pressure, or valve sealing meaning it produces oil mist?
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 17:15:37 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 16:50:37 GMT
|
£2300 New in today's money!
I realise this is probably just an old compressor to alot of folk on here, the kind they were glad to see the back of when replaced for modern gear, but for some reason I'm more excited by this thing than I should be 😂
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 16:47:59 GMT
|
Might need new belts! Got to love some stenceling
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 16:45:59 GMT
|
Oh, and i have the original air filter Although I've read somewhere bigger air filters are better and even motorcycle silencers can be fitted to quieten compressors down.... Eyes gsxr1100 exhaust in scrap pile Pump label Receiver label Unsurprisingly the vent is on the bottom
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 16:35:45 GMT
|
I have bought another compressor, a 1975 broomwade One of the main reasons for buying it is it had this pressure switch, which will be handy for my hydrovane if I can't get this broomwade working It was originaly 3 phase but had the motor swapped for this single phase one The air link pipe is missing, I assume it goes from here To here? It has 2 valves on this block. Any idea why 2? A safety I'd guess, and maybe a pressure relief? But triggered by what? Main air outlet presumably from the pcl connector on the front, but why this tap on the side? Lastly, this extra hole in the head. Air outlet to pressure switch? Just somewhere to mount a switch? Where should the pressure switch connect? It rather nicely has it's cylinder test certs up to 1982 It's original sales brochure and paperwork for the new single phase motor A note of the use its had And the operating manual Surprisingly all this paperwork doesn't shed much light on my questions of what goes where! I'll clean it up and the pump will be stripped and checked before I fire it up. Apart from the connection questions, the last things are... How likely is this tank to kill me when it has 150psi in it? Do i paint it or not! More pics will be posted as things progress.
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 16:37:16 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Sept 13, 2021 16:23:58 GMT
|
Sounds like you've found yourself a nice new hobby. I have six air compressors, two of which I've bought new, three of which I've rebuilt, and one that's waiting for a complete overhaul. Seems like it! Just picked the new compressor up. I may be out of my depth 😂 New thread coming soon so I can work out what goes where!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2021 18:49:08 GMT
|
A friend of mine has a solar trickle charger for keeping his leisure battery topped whilst he's working. It seems to work but slowly, he's not drawing much from his pump but I suppose if your batteries are at rest then it may be ok. That's all it be using it for, when I lay my bikes up for the winter, just put the batteries on the tender so they don't die with 6 months of no use. The 2 batteries on my camper I could probably just leave in it and get one of the trickle chargers with a solar panel in the window. I guess that's the kind of thing he has?
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 11, 2021 20:04:46 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2021 18:47:03 GMT
|
Just connect them all in one 12v parallel bank and one 6v bank The batteries will take charge at the rate they need and stop once fully charged. It will take a while in this way but you are exceedingly unlikely to manage to over charge them. That will lower each batteries charge rate won't it? Not that I guess it's a problem as it's only to stop them you g flat over winter. Wouldn't it also force them to equalise voltage? Not sure if that would be a problem though. I often jump lead a decent battery and a flat one together yo force my charger to accept the flat one. I can do it this way though, although separate control circuits would be nice. Over charge protection for each battery and a voltage gauge for each would be nice too. I think I'll keep my eyes peeled for cheap parts and see what I can piece together
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2021 15:23:19 GMT
|
Id need 2, 6v and 12v, but I get the point. Would be alot easier. Even if I forget, or don't go in the garage for a couple of weeks, I guess they would still be ok.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2021 13:29:39 GMT
|
Like many of us, I have various vehicles with batteries that don't get used over winter. I am thinking of getting a battery tender, not to charge a flat battery, but to keep a charged battery healthy. Solar sounds good, just leave it running. I have 5 batteries I'd like to do this with though so I was thinking if I could diy something. One solar panel, make a bank of controllers, a shelf underneath, multiple clip leads to connect each battery. I need 6v and 12v. Doesn't seem like too complicated a project. Quick look online shows a few simple circuits. Anyone tried this though? Or even used commercial solar ones? Any good?
The main things I don't really know is how much current each battery would need, and therefore how to spec the solar panel. Also, if I set it up to charge all 5 batteries from the One panel, will it care if sometimes it only has 1 or 2 batteries connected.
One battery tender station set up in the garage would be nice, connect and disconnect batteries at will. Buying 5 commercial battery tenders sounds messy and expensive.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 10, 2021 19:01:46 GMT
|
They don't look like your getting full pad contact. I don't know capris but looks like your missing 30% of contact and only really getting 50% properly.
New discs (and pads as they will be worn weird now) should help loads of have thought.
Might not need upgraded parts if your currently not getting full stopping power from the stock set up.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 10, 2021 6:42:41 GMT
|
I added differential adjustment to my pressure switch. Seems it comes in both types. It's not made much difference though, sort of just let's you widen the differential a bit rather than reducing it. So, I've bought another pressure switch that lets you set it down to 10psi differential. However, it comes with another compressor! An incomplete, disassembled, compressor. It has a 1hp motor too though so I can either get this new one running and see if it's too loud (the whole reason for the little hydrovane in the first place), or use the switch and vertical receiver with the hydrovane and use the 1hp motor on the polisher.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 9, 2021 22:26:50 GMT
|
I'll sort some tomorrow, they are currently in the middle of the workshop floor!
I have a 1976 cb750f1. I think one was it's original, one was a better second hand one fitted before it's current new one was sourced. For a niggling feeling at least one has different stays though. My bike has front and rear stays, but some 750s seem to have one, and pics of gl1000 show one stay. I'm sure one, if not both, of the spares are single stay.
I'll take some pics and we can take some measurements and see what's what.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 9, 2021 22:00:01 GMT
|
I have some front mudguards that may work on this. I think they came off a 1976 cb750. Looking at pics, they look the same as what this would have had. They aren't perfect but usable.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 9, 2021 20:48:36 GMT
|
There is a very battered, lifted, yellow one of these on my road. I love it! The guy obviously off roads it alot. Spends a fair bit of time on axle stands though, with "Not for sale" written in the window.
I'd love one. Had a jimny for a while, great little car!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 9, 2021 20:05:31 GMT
|
If it is a chinese one, and cleaning it doesn't work, what usually happens is they overdrive the LED, making the driver itself overheat, and causes this flickering. If that's in reference to my post, the bulb itself is the best I could get (and the most expensive!) The bulb holder however is rubbish vintage British made tat 😂 The lights bfand new and only been illuminated for about 5 mins. It flickered a couple of times when turningnit on. Resetting the bulb holder solved it though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 9, 2021 13:23:40 GMT
|
I just put an LED headlight bulb in my bike and It flickers if the connection isn't good, so worth checking everything before condemning them.
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 9, 2021 13:23:49 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Sept 8, 2021 17:45:36 GMT
|
A little reading tells me I want a switch with adjustable differential. I also see you want a minimum of 1 bar differential, which is fine for me. I wonder if I can modify the original to have less differential.
|
|
|
|