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Aug 15, 2021 16:57:20 GMT
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Thats very cool, you will be able to get a 1/4 or 1/8" NPT PSV with the correct pressure range for this, I'd drill and tap a thread into lid on the small water trap / receiver on the side of it. Then back it right off, and run the compressor, gradually increasing the tension on the PSV until you reach the 100psi. That should work fine. However it would be better if you could install a cutoff switch aswell. Possibly look for a knackered small compressor on ebay and use the parts? The pressure switch would have to be adjustable though, as most compressors will go to around 120-150PSI. A pressure switch is no use without a reservoir. This is designed to run constantly in use. It doesn't store pressure. Ah, hang on, as I'm writing this I just realised, it would just auto switch off when you stop using air and stay on when you are. Not sure if stop starting all the time will be good for it though. I get what the psv would be but what do the letters actually stand for? Pressure ? Valve I guess? Edit. Safety! Of course.
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2021 17:02:22 GMT by VW
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Aug 14, 2021 20:01:29 GMT
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It's apart. It was manky inside! I've stripped and washed it entirely. It's very well made! I thinknill replace all the o rings while I'm in there. It has some thick felt filters that I'm trying to clean out as I've no idea how I'd sort replacements. Other than the o rings there are only 2 gaskets, one paper, one which was very thin sheet plastic. Odd, not sure how I'll replace that. It's thickness critical as it effects end float on the vanes. I'll sort something though. Once I've got the pieces cleaned up I'll show some pics of how it goes together.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:40:01 GMT
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Would there be any value in trying to add a receiver and cut off switch to this? Maybe from my old knackered cheapo compressor?
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Aug 14, 2021 13:31:57 GMT
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Just seen it says 9/9/59 on the little tank on the side! Older than I thought. No mention of binks either, just bullows.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:16:18 GMT
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I've bought a little old hydrovane compressor, but I don't know much about it. It's a 3R304E according to the label. It's also apparently for dental work but has a tyre inflate on it (a bonus as mines broke!) It's a cool little thing. I can't find any reference at all to it's existence online though. I've found a few pr303e ones though. They seem to be pretty much the same but don't have the little tank on the side and have a different psi rating. They go to 50psi, this goes to 100psi. I assume the tank on the side is just to catch water/oil? The only thing I know about them is they always pump as no receiver and need to be used with tools that constantly bleed a little air, presumably so it's not fighting itself as it has no cut out for when pressure is reached. So, what tools cannot use with it? If I can't use say a normal blow gun, why can't I just set a constant drain on the air outlet somehow? My plan is to strip it, clean it, replace the filters, paint the motor and try and find out what to do about oil for it, how much etc. Does anyone know anything about these? I'd like to be able to use it to inflate tyres, maybe a bit of blow gun action, maybe a little spraying (the 50psi ones were ment for this, or so I've read, so I assume this will cope with painting small tho us with a gravity fed door shut gun?) Will it run a small air polisher? A small die grinder? I never use much air and never run my compressor for more than 10 mins really, but my old compressor is small, VERY noisy and VERY rubbish. I don't really care if I can't do anything other than pump up tyres with it, I just like it.
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Or just put a nyloc nut on it?
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I'm no expert, but the second pier I'd say depends on how much wall is above the opening and how much wall is left till the next pier/corner. I can see why another pier would be of benefit but it depends how much wall your having to stabilise. You would want to hinge from the pier side I'd guess, but then your slamming a door against a single brickwork wall. It's not that big a deal to build another. As for having it one course up, I don't see the point other than water ingress. I can't see it helping a huge amount to the the bottom of the wall together.
Alot will depend on exactly how the garage has been built I guess.
I'd just do it and if it falls down, id just fix it 😂
Still, I'm sure folk who actually know what they are doing will advise soon.
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I used citric on all the parts of my last motorbike build. It works great. I found 2r hours soak, remove and give a light wire brush, give them another 12 to 24 hours and brush/rinse. Even on badly rusted and pitted parts I ended up with shiny steel right into all the nooks.
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Contemplating making more accounts so I can like that pic a few more times!
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Can't wait to see this in paint!
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Took some pics of what I did. These are the dies I made The small thin brass ferrules didn't come out very neatly The larger stainless ones worked much better With more work on the dies I'm sure better results could be had, but I've no idea if something that would hold pressure could be achieved.
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It didn't take long to make the dies, rig up a pressure test and do a few test crimps, see when they fail.
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Flat spanners with a hole like that were normally sets that were held together with a central screw. I have a few sets like that, mainly only whitworth sizes but no doubt made in af and metric too.
That's all the info I can give!
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The problem is hydraulic hose dies have 8 segments. You cant really crimp them in a press or vice unless you build a big fixture to hold the dies aswell. Look for the proper machines and you will see what i mean. Indeed, and having all those segments means your not squashing the ferrule from 2 sides like you are with a simple split die. That's why proper crimpers make a very tidy job and don't pinch the ferrule like a 2 piece die. Although mine seem fine for the fuel duty they were intended for, I couldn't say for certain that there is even crimping pressure all round.
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What did you use to squeeze them? A big vice. Squeezing them wasn't the issue. In fact, I think it would be easier to get them neat if the ferrules were thicker walled and harder. The stainless ferrules were easier than the smaller brass ones. The dies were made from blocks of steel, step drilled from each side so you have a ring in the middle. That should give a nice circular crimp all the way around the ferrule. But they want to pinch the sides, so I chambered them. You have to sort of half/ three quarters crimp them, then turn them 90 degrees and go again. It just doesn't give as neat a result as I'd anticipated. I'm sure, with a bit more knowledge of how deep to crimp, chamber amounts, and radius's of the ridge would get them neater. Not sure info have any pics, but I can take some if you want.
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Probably not hugely relevant, but I recently made some dies to crimp hose ferrules, but only for oil and petrol lines, so no pressure at all really.
What I can say though, is it went ok, but not as nicely as I'd hoped. The results should have been neater. Made me realise I wouldn't want to try doing anything with safety critical pressure capability without alot more learning on how to make the dies.
Nothing about it was hard though, just the ferrules don't necessarily react how id expect when crimped.
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My dad sold an eight cylinder Brough Superior saloon in 1959 to pay for his divorce settlement. He got £25 for it. As bad as that sounds, hopefully it was worth it for him!
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Running one of those as a ten+ year old car, with the cost of taxing, insuring and fuelling compared to something mass market would have been a rich man’s pastime. If you could really afford it, then you could probably afford a new one. Technology was seriously on the march then too, and a ten year old car was a long way behind a new one, even one as engineered as an A-S. Average wages were about £15 a week before deductions, and £130 in today’s money is over £2,400 (against a new price of £1,728 in 1951, which is £55,500 today). A rich man’s game indeed. Its interesting to see what was still bringing good money and what wasnt. You don't often see classifieds from this era with pics either. There are 3 or 4 pages i think, just posted these fornobvious reasons. There are some very cheap mk V jags too.
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