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Jan 25, 2021 21:06:26 GMT
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Interesting. What exactly is that box out of? Looks like it might even be convinced to go on the back of a Triumph lump...... Nick It’s a Vauxhall omega v6 gearbox (r25 /r28). Using this as it bolts directly on to the Saab engine but is a quite compact unit too. |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jan 25, 2021 21:11:23 GMT
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Interesting. What exactly is that box out of? Looks like it might even be convinced to go on the back of a Triumph lump...... Nick You can also shorten the gear shift duck bill and linkages to shorten it further |
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Jan 28, 2021 19:12:23 GMT
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Impressive stuff with the bodywork already.
The R160 diff conversion is still available from Steve Mathews in Australia, slightly more difficult are the drive shafts but I am informed apart from the Rover100 nsf the Mazda 323 BH 1.6SOHC or DOHC also fit (correct splines both ends) and are a little longer (plenty of plunge depth in Subaru cv's) Enables you to keep the original rotoflex setup with stronger MGF/TF rear bearings (small machining job), bonus is same pcd and they don't need shimming either.I just received mine. 
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Minis, GT6's, MGC, TVR Grantura & Vixen Cosworth, Lotus Elan Turbo, Formula 27, Defender V8, Sunbeam Alpine, Midas Gold convertable and more forgotten!
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biturbo228
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,868
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The R160 diff conversion is still available from Steve Mathews in Australia Neat, I was hoping they were still making those. How much was yours all-in? |
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Jan 29, 2021 22:35:55 GMT
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Impressive stuff with the bodywork already.
The R160 diff conversion is still available from Steve Mathews in Australia, slightly more difficult are the drive shafts but I am informed apart from the Rover100 nsf the Mazda 323 BH 1.6SOHC or DOHC also fit (correct splines both ends) and are a little longer (plenty of plunge depth in Subaru cv's) Enables you to keep the original rotoflex setup with stronger MGF/TF rear bearings (small machining job), bonus is same pcd and they don't need shimming either.I just received mine. Also wondering how much the kit was. That diff cover is a thing of beauty. |
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Jan 29, 2021 22:51:41 GMT
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So been a bit busy this week. The body has been swapped on to the new chassis and fitted with new spacers and bolts. Front suspension uprights and rack fitted too. Then the engine and box were bolted together and lifted in for the first time.    Gearbox fits in rather well.    And it’s in for the first of many test fits. First impressions are good. The sump fits behind the crossmember, the water pump and turbo clears the n/s suspension.   The major sticking point is the steering rack. The harmonic balancer of the crank pulley will catch when I drop the engine in further. Could the rack be moved forward? Should I move the engine back a little more. The oil filter housing is majorly in a 🤬 position. A remote set up will be needed.  Also going to need a smaller alternator and move it’s position to fit in a gap.  Plenty of room for the steering column and started. Next job is to trim more of the bulkhead, remove a few more little things off the engine such as thermostat housing to make space to get it sat in better and level. Then knock up a set of mounts. Does it now technically classed as mid engined? |
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biturbo228
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Jan 30, 2021 10:42:28 GMT
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Well I am majorly impressed! Did not think a vertical b204 (or is this one a b234?) would fit even that closely.
From what I gather moving the rack forward will affect ackerman geometry and bump steer. These cars aren't perfect to begin with, but I'm not sure if moving it forward will affect that for better or worse. Bet there will be some on in the triumph world who's worked it out though...
If you can shift the engine back without too many headaches that might be the better option. There's a lot of dead space on the bulkhead behind the engine you can cut out to clearance. I did on my Spit to shift the 6-cyl back.
If you haven't hammered down or cut off and rewelded the flanges on the chassis to help gearbox clearance you can gain about 40mm width between the chassis rails to help with space.
Oh, and yes. I would say it now counts as front-mid (like a Spitfire too!)
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biturbo228
Posted a lot
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Jan 30, 2021 10:49:08 GMT
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On the bump steer front, there's a binky episode where they go through the process of modifying steering arms to counteract the bump steer of an altered steering rack position. It's definitely doable, especially with the unboltable steering arm on GT6 suspension.
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Last Edit: Jan 30, 2021 10:49:25 GMT by biturbo228
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Jan 30, 2021 11:27:31 GMT
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Is it a Garret or IHI turbo?
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Jan 30, 2021 12:54:27 GMT
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Well I am majorly impressed! Did not think a vertical b204 (or is this one a b234?) would fit even that closely. From what I gather moving the rack forward will affect ackerman geometry and bump steer. These cars aren't perfect to begin with, but I'm not sure if moving it forward will affect that for better or worse. Bet there will be some on in the triumph world who's worked it out though... If you can shift the engine back without too many headaches that might be the better option. There's a lot of dead space on the bulkhead behind the engine you can cut out to clearance. I did on my Spit to shift the 6-cyl back. If you haven't hammered down or cut off and rewelded the flanges on the chassis to help gearbox clearance you can gain about 40mm width between the chassis rails to help with space. Oh, and yes. I would say it now counts as front-mid (like a Spitfire too!) Yeh it’s the b204. I’m still in a bit of shock that it fits behind the suspension towers and cross member myself. I will have to put a 1-2” notch in the crossmember to sit it down enough. Next time I sit it in I’m going to mark the chassis where it’s close to the gearbox ready to make a bit more clearance. Fingers crossed it will then move backwards another 2” to clear the rack. I’ve already had to cut a section of the bulkhead shelf where the heater box would normally sit but seeing as I’m not running a heater it’s not much of a issue. |
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Jan 30, 2021 13:07:52 GMT
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Is it a Garret or IHI turbo? It’s the Garrett turbo. |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jan 30, 2021 13:47:47 GMT
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On the bump steer front, there's a binky episode where they go through the process of modifying steering arms to counteract the bump steer of an altered steering rack position. It's definitely doable, especially with the unboltable steering arm on GT6 suspension. I think the youtube fanatik restomod rebuild of a GT6 covered it very well but they fitted an LS engine and suspension/steering from a CROWN vic Worth searching out if you haven’t seen it |
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Jan 30, 2021 13:58:44 GMT
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On the bump steer front, there's a binky episode where they go through the process of modifying steering arms to counteract the bump steer of an altered steering rack position. It's definitely doable, especially with the unboltable steering arm on GT6 suspension. I think the youtube fanatik restomod rebuild of a GT6 covered it very well but they fitted an LS engine and suspension/steering from a CROWN vic Worth searching out if you haven’t seen it Il have a gander tonight while the misses is no doubt watching “reality” tv. 👍🏻 |
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Jan 30, 2021 17:54:03 GMT
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Great work, planning to put an MX5 engine and box in mine, gives option of turbo later (much later). The Subaru kit is $895AUD including shipping to UK but you will also get about 10%-20% import duty. You can find and message SteveJM via the sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums - sorry don't want to give his direct email without permission. You can find the rear hub mod info here www.gt6.ca/josh/cv_rotoflex.htmlvitesseefi AKA Nick is the original guy to do this! |
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Last Edit: Jan 30, 2021 18:04:30 GMT by Fuelish
Minis, GT6's, MGC, TVR Grantura & Vixen Cosworth, Lotus Elan Turbo, Formula 27, Defender V8, Sunbeam Alpine, Midas Gold convertable and more forgotten!
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Jan 30, 2021 17:59:25 GMT
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Just to add, to bear in mind the engine in a GT6 acts as a brace between the front suspension towers, reduces flex and possible fracture. You might want to consider some type of cross brace in front of the engine as it drops back and down.
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Minis, GT6's, MGC, TVR Grantura & Vixen Cosworth, Lotus Elan Turbo, Formula 27, Defender V8, Sunbeam Alpine, Midas Gold convertable and more forgotten!
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oilyt
Part of things
Posts: 174
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Jan 30, 2021 18:13:09 GMT
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My herald conversion I cut the bulkhead back almost to the heater airbox just to get the engine as far back as possible and my crank pully sits just in front of the rack . i'm making my own sump so notching it around the rack to get the motor low as possible for bonnet clearance.  |
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,790
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Jan 30, 2021 18:13:51 GMT
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My experience is moving racks forward is a pain in the backside.
Yes you need to adjust for bump and akerman which is doable (assuming you don't end up with trackrod end trying to be in the bake disc), but if your track arms are pointing back much you'll also find you effective rack movement on turn changes as it describes much more of an open arc. It also loads the balls differently which may not be great for longevity.
The other thing I found was lock was reduced as the wheel can catch the arm.
If you can move the engine back you save that hassle. It'll also likely shift centre of gravity back a bit as well closer to centre of the vehicle.
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Last Edit: Jan 30, 2021 18:14:26 GMT by jonomisfit
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Jan 31, 2021 17:08:42 GMT
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