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Liking this. I’m just gathering the bits together to put a b2*4 in a locost. I had already bought a r25-28 omega box and prop when I fell on a complete rwd package so I do have a spare. I was going to hang onto it as they are getting quite rare now. Drop me a message if you are struggling to find one, but it might be worth looking into a different box. The only problem with this is that all of the obvious ones e.g. Rx8 etc are huge in comparison, or have clearance issues for clutch cables etc.. In term of the speed sensor I’m sure you know but I believe the signal can be disabled to the ECU, but you will obviously lose the ability to limit boost in the lower gears. Have you got a thread for your locost build? You can get round the speed input issue like you say but I want to have all my dash information run through my ecu. All the values can be tweaked in the ecu then so speedo can be calibrated while mapping. Thank you for the offer. I shall keep you in mind if I hit a brick wall. |
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Jan 13, 2021 22:03:48 GMT |
Managed to get some welding gas and had a few hours on the gt6 tonight. Welded abit more of the c pillar and ground down.  Also made up a new b pillar as the original had rotted out as well as being cut in half.    Bent up some .8mm flat sheet using some flat bar, angle, vice and hammers. Really need to make a folder.    All clamped up ready to weld in tomorrow night hopefully. Spent a bit of time gapping the door up as well. Ended up grinding the rear edge of the door to make a decent panel gap. Il have to weld the edge of the door skin back together where it has split and then grind / file it back. Small progress but we are getting there. By weekend the new body mounting spacers should be here so can get them swapped in before cutting the floors out. |
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Great progress, and nice work on the pillar! Tricky little shape to make.
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Jan 14, 2021 18:23:24 GMT |
Great progress, and nice work on the pillar! Tricky little shape to make. Wasn’t the easiest thing to make and it does have a slight twist but once it’s plug welded in I should be able to sort that out. Just got home so get changed and I’ve got a free pass to go do a bit more while the misses puts the Lil one to bed and does some marking. |
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Jan 14, 2021 19:28:29 GMT |
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Love the roof bulge idea, bit like those modern Peugeot coupes that had them but in glass, think they look class.
Exciting project, look forward to seeing how you get on. Particularly with the gearbox, the short gearing on my herald isn't ideal
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Jan 14, 2021 21:43:38 GMT |
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Jan 17, 2021 17:27:22 GMT |
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hagus
Part of things
Posts: 22
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Jan 17, 2021 22:31:01 GMT |
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Might as well deseam the back end while you’re at it....
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peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,537 
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Jan 17, 2021 22:49:03 GMT |
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Very nice work.
Can I ask on the A pillar do intend to fit a high level mounting point for a seat belt in the A pillar or are you going to use a low level mount?
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Jan 18, 2021 17:44:53 GMT |
Very nice work. Can I ask on the A pillar do intend to fit a high level mounting point for a seat belt in the A pillar or are you going to use a low level mount? I’m going to be running a full cage so will be using that to mount a set of 5 point harnesses. If it all goes wrong I want to make sure I stand a chance of surviving. |
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Jan 18, 2021 17:47:55 GMT |
Might as well deseam the back end while you’re at it.... I hadn’t thought of that. Probably a bit to much work really specially if it gets damaged on a track day. At the moment it’s a afternoon of a job to replace a rear wing and minimum paint work. If I deseamed it it would become a bit of a pita. |
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Wouldn't it be easier to install the cage before welding on the roof? Just a question. Stellar work resurrecting this pile of body work.
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Jan 21, 2021 18:37:21 GMT |
You can get round the speed input issue like you say but I want to have all my dash information run through my ecu. All the values can be tweaked in the ecu then so speedo can be calibrated while mapping. Thank you for the offer. I shall keep you in mind if I hit a brick wall. Sounds like you have that well sorted. What’s engine clearance like and do you have idea’s in terms of what you are going to do for the sump? |
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Jan 21, 2021 23:50:49 GMT |
Sounds like you have that well sorted. What’s engine clearance like and do you have idea’s in terms of what you are going to do for the sump? At the moment clearance has been a rough guesstimate. It’s gonna be close to the bonnet as they are such a tall engine. But we are a step closer to dropping it in now as after work I did a 160mile round trip to pick up the omega gearbox I’d been given.   I'm nipping to my dads to retrieve the original chassis on Sunday as we had mixed the chassis up when assembling all the parts. Over next few weeks il swap the tub over and hang the engine and box in to see what goes where. This will the determine if I can use the stock sump with baffles or if I need to fabricate a new one. |
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Jan 22, 2021 10:04:33 GMT |
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To make a little more space I've seen people cut the front horizontal box section off and relocate it so it pokes out forward of the steering rack rather than aft of it. Useful when trying to fit Sprint engines. Another option would be to set it back further in the chassis by cutting some of the flat bulkhead behind the engine. Means you can have more of the engine under the tall part of the bonnet, provided the gearbox still fits between the chassis. Might help!
That does look like a tall engine though! I'll see if I took any measurements of the engine bay on mine with the bonnet shut (not sure I did, but you never know!).
When I was planning out a similar swap in my head I'd always thought I'd use the older slanted version as a basis, altohugh that gets into its own issues with the exhaust and turbo fouling on the suspension turrets. Do you know if the bellhousing patterns are the same between the upright and slanted versions of the Saab engine?
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Jan 22, 2021 22:59:41 GMT |
To make a little more space I've seen people cut the front horizontal box section off and relocate it so it pokes out forward of the steering rack rather than aft of it. Useful when trying to fit Sprint engines. Another option would be to set it back further in the chassis by cutting some of the flat bulkhead behind the engine. Means you can have more of the engine under the tall part of the bonnet, provided the gearbox still fits between the chassis. Might help! That does look like a tall engine though! I'll see if I took any measurements of the engine bay on mine with the bonnet shut (not sure I did, but you never know!). When I was planning out a similar swap in my head I'd always thought I'd use the older slanted version as a basis, altohugh that gets into its own issues with the exhaust and turbo fouling on the suspension turrets. Do you know if the bellhousing patterns are the same between the upright and slanted versions of the Saab engine? As far as I’m led to believe the earlier slanted Saab engines have their own bellhousing bolt pattern. The later Saab/ GM engines use the gym bolt pattern. If possible I’d like to leave the cross member unmodified 😜, but I cannot rule anything out just yet. I think the bellhousing and chassis clearance will dictate where it’s all going to sit. I really want to leave the exterior looking standard so il not be adding big bulges to the bonnet. At worst I could possibly add a inch in to the height of the original bonnet hump. |
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