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Mar 26, 2022 17:28:30 GMT
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Injectors are out, bit clogged will get these tested and then see how it goes. Rear one needed the engine dropped off one mount to get the bulkhead clearance, but otherwise ok.
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Mar 27, 2022 10:27:34 GMT
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The wing mirrors had only ever worked left and right adjustment, stripped the switch and cleaned out a load of hardened contact grease. Not sure if this would have been an mot failure but working now.
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Initial verdict on the injectors was one almost works.
Hopefully get these back on Friday.
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Mar 29, 2022 10:10:02 GMT
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ref the mirrors I don't think they are a MOT item, mine didn't work this year and it passed (you can still move them by hand)
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Injectors back, replaced and... no discernible change. They definately needed doing so not a waste of effort but slightly disappointing. Symptoms are smoke when sudden large throttle opening, no smoke when small throttle or steady speed. Not able to road test as no mot yet. There is no boost at this point so no point adjusting the boost pin rotation which has been checked that it is not seized. Its also not maxed out. Apparently as the pump wears they have a tendancy to deliver more fuel, so the off boost smoke screw may need some adjustment. I will need to get an egt gauge to determine what is going on in more detail
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,354
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1992 range rover 200 tdiglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Do you know if it was ok before? Or is this the first time you’ve really run it?
Black smoke is often the result of a previous owner “tuning” and can mean a pump recalibrate to get things back to where they should be.
Another thought; if it’s been laid up a long time, then a good hard run once up to temperature can often sort things out.
It does sound like someone’s been playing with the pump settings though.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I don't recall it smoking when i got it, and did trundle around in it for a few months.
I rotated the boost pin to reduce the fuelling until the smoking stopped being excessive. Only needed about 30 degree change. Even when there is no boost it seems the initial offset is being tracked by the pin.
At least now i feel i have a chance of getting an mot and will be able to road test it. I was loathed to change anything else at this stage, the smoke screw appears untouched so left that alone.
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More minor jobs. The inlet air hose is obsolete, so had to make one from a discovery hose and a 30 degree bend. The front grill did not fit on the nearside bracket, some basic measurements showed the bracket was 5mm out so removed and reattached Finally the point where the earth post attaches on the footwell was a bit crunchy. I was not confdent given the thickness and access of making a decent weld here. Cut out the frilly edges hoovered the rust, wax in the hole and a small plate with mastic to seal it. Bit of a bodge but this was likely to go pear shaped whilst welding due to the amount of wiring nearby, thin gauge metal, and accessibility.
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Jun 16, 2022 11:46:18 GMT
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Mot today and passed with just an advisory on a steering box weep.
Almost an anti climax, it passed emissions easily which was my main concern. Limit was 3, actual was 1.x
Now for all the niggles to appear on pressing it into daily service, and I can now turn my attention to doing something about some crusty bits on the drivers door.
Had forgotten how different these are to drive!
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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1992 range rover 200 tdi75swb
@75swb
Club Retro Rides Member 181
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Jun 24, 2022 22:00:28 GMT
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Congrats on the mot! Happy days.
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Jun 25, 2022 17:10:09 GMT
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The mot tester and i compared pictures of rusty landrovers, so knew that I had a fair test!
In true land rover fashion I now have a leaky swivel so thats now promoted to the top of the list.
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The likely source of my problems. Looks like the seal held some moisture up against the surface of the swivel resulting in a rusty crack. This fails the thumbnail test so looks like new one needed, only I have not ordered one so now not likely to be done til next weekend. Some folk claim to have used filler to fill their pits(!) but not convinced of the longevity of that.
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Jul 10, 2022 16:46:43 GMT
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Replaced my leaky swivel today. I don't do hot very well, so hid under this.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,354
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1992 range rover 200 tdiglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Jul 10, 2022 19:21:55 GMT
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I need to look at my 109’s swivel seals really. It’s one of those jobs that you try to ignore, but it’s never quite as bad as you thought it was going to be once you’re stuck in.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I had some concerns around getting the bearing races into the swivel, but in the end they where easily drifted in without much clout needed.
My swivel ball was definately due for a change, it was orinally a teflon coated one but all the coating had worn off.
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Oct 22, 2022 17:53:13 GMT
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Been trundling around for a few months, not totally problem free but fairly minor:
Alarm central locking was doing strange things, disconnected for a few days and on resurrection has worked fine. Needed a new bonnet switch to correct a very sensitive bonnet which caused a couple of false positives. Rear hatch switch also fell aparr and was replaced.
Alarm led died, and as this uses flash codes to allow you to test the different sensors had to replace.
Realised the handbrake did not light the warning light on the dasboard. Found the wire disconnected in the centre console and on reconnection and cleaning terminals on the brake fluid reservoir now works.
Rear passenger window the metal part that grips the glass disintegrated due to rust. Had to fabricate one as there are no replacements new, will keep a look out.
Thats all, which is pretty good given it had a 5 year hibernation.
Next on the list is change the axle oil.
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More minor teething issues, ever since I bought it, it always started immediately. Recently needed a few seconds churning before reluctantly starting.
Internet wisdom was air getting in the fuel supply, and sure enough putting some clear hose at the sedimenter output showed some major bubbles.
Have bypassed the sedimenter for now as i cannot get it airtight although the main leak was at the tank to sedimenter nylon pipe to sedimenter join.
Now starts immediately, and its got a fair amount of performance (relative) back.
Replacement sedimenter and pipework to be ordered.
And the rev counter now intermittent, could be the dash wiring, or alternator....
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Most moderns have an in tank lift pump to prevent air being drawn in especialy when it' cold and a fair depression is needed to suck the diesel up.
If it's the same tank as a petrol you could fit a carb in tank pump if you keep having problems.
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2022 20:37:07 GMT by kevins
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Nov 12, 2022 19:15:16 GMT
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Some people do resort to having a push pump as it reduces the likelihood of air being drawn in. I'm going to try and get the standard setup working first, it seems to be degrading nylon to metal pipe joints causing the issue. I got a new filter head for the sedimentor as mine was a bit ropey. The rev counter issue appears to have been a slipping belt, it got worse to the extent the power steering was getting heavy at times and it started squealing. New belt sorted it.
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