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Good work on the panel repairs. nice to see another one getting saved. Its all very familiar as we have being doing extensive work to my dads 94 rrc. Have found they like to rot at the lowest point in the chassis leg by the side of the fuel tank so don't be surprised to find a hole there once the tank is out.
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Jan 11, 2020 18:34:42 GMT
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Tank mounts are fine but the lowest part of the chassis rails at the back are a bit holey. Minor repair to the chassis behind the shock mount. Needs more dressing to be finished. The mount itself almost seems designed to trap mud here.
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Managed to remove the plastic fuel tank (hurrah no rust on something for once!) up into the car, and then removed the cradle, as no access to the inside of the chassis rail with the tank in and it had a few small holes around the tow bar mounts. Surprsingly the cradle will be good to go again having given it a good poke, but the tank strap is toast. These are available new but silly money (150 quid!!) so will need to make another one. Small holes became big holes and needed to replace sides and bottom of chassis rail. Will weld further strengthening plates on the sides of the rails as the tow bar mounts will attach to this replaced section.
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urbanaw
Part of things
Posts: 249
Club RR Member Number: 17
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1992 range rover 200 tdiurbanaw
@urbanaw
Club Retro Rides Member 17
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Yet another vehicle I would not mind owning one day. Great work. She will be good for years once finished.
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Mar 29, 2020 18:35:35 GMT
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Finished the rear inner arch which was awaiting final finishing in the photo, and onto the boot floor. The boot has been done before but I did not like the lap welded repair,it had started rusting between the layers, and needed to fix some rust between the floor and arch. Tried clamping the new edge to the floor and cutting both to get a good fit. You can see my edge was not that straight but the fit was reasonable. Both floor supports obviously new and waiting to go in. Last bit was rear fuel tank mount which was hiding a hole so had to be cut off and replaced.
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Welded the chassis repair in place and the tow bar mount and crush tube in, the tow bar mounting plate is large enough to weld onto the original chassis and the replacement section. Hopefully get the tank back in place tomorrow after waxing it all, but have to finish drilling out the other bolt.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:51:53 GMT
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Tank back in now the chassis rail repaired, back to the front. Inner wing was a lost cause so replacing the lot. There was some grot on the bulkhead but was caught in time and not perforated. Rust treated and will need to re seal and paint. Starting to check panel gaps before welding the wing on. Panel gaps are pretty big by default it seems. Then I have to shuffle it around to make the working space on the other side, and do it all again. I hope I did the worst side first.
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Apr 14, 2020 14:11:26 GMT
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Front wing now welded on, some large tolerances on this, but it seems landrover accepted this as the flange the front wing attaches to is also adjustable +-5mm as standard. Front wing is a pattern part so probably not totally accurate either. Wing itself fits as well as the other as yet untouched side.
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May 20, 2020 17:28:17 GMT
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Primed and seam sealed the wing, and decided to change the cambelt whilst the access is good. Some numpty left the crank washer off so now waiting for one in the post. All the timing case bolts came out and no snappage so no trouble. Had bought a puller to get the crank damper off and can confirm there was no way it was coming off without it. Also came with the pins to lock the flywheel and injector pump, was not a hard job ib the end. Had to make a tool to hold the crank for torquing the bolt. Slightly nervous how much two m8 bolts will put up with as it needs 330Nm.
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May 22, 2020 18:24:45 GMT
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excellent work again, very similar repairs and areas to my 1984 ninety (which is no coincidence obviously)
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May 25, 2020 16:30:09 GMT
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Thanks for the feedback, i realise this is not that retro, nor modified, but i have enjoyed reading the other threads so like to contribute. I had hoped that the crank washer might arrive for the weekend, but no such luck so now onto smaller jobs as need to shuffle it about in the garage to do the other side where the main jobs are. The drivers footwell looks like it is full of fibreglass, so the a and b posts and sills are likely all gone too. Tested the colour matched paint on the floors. Not that impressed to be honest, would not want to do an external panel with this as it is quite a bit darker. Also did the wheelarch, it should really be body colour but i like it black and given i have a small workspace it makes touchups easier. Rehung the drivers door, which is surprisingly heavy when doing it solo. Finally prepped primed and coated the rear inner wing with some anti rust wax coating.
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May 30, 2020 18:15:08 GMT
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I know the best way to check alignment is by hanging the doors, but i do not have enough space in the garage to do this so relied on some careful measurements helped by the fact the sill bolts on the chassis and its straight edged. Gaps are huge which is to be expected, but parallel. Today was the first time its been out of the garage since i started poking holes in the rust. Went in about 4ish years ago. Rear calipers seem to be goosed and not releasing but they looked pretty awful years ago so less faff to replace. Least mechanical parts for these are quite cheap.
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May 31, 2020 15:59:44 GMT
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,354
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1992 range rover 200 tdiglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Nice work. It’s always daunting we’re you start poking into stuff, but you’re definitely doing it properly. 👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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mine was very similar, had an MOT but most of the A post, footwells, sills and rear seat belt mounts were made out of bits of tin held in place with what looked like several buckets of green filler covered in great gloops of black underseal.
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I know an mot is a snapshot in time and only a vague indication of roadworthyness, but it makes you wonder how many bodged up vehicles are out there. Removed the old inner and outer sill. A post is double skinned so will need to fabricate the inner skin before replacing the bottom as that is not too happy either. Looks like it is strengthening for the door hinges, but fortunately does not get quite as high as the hinge itself. A lot of rust in the sills and signs the body mounts were not well attached so all overdue. Having done the otherside there is less contemplation so hope to get this side done faster. It is very useful seeing others notes on fixing these so thanks to those who went before me.
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The great thing is virtualy all the steel areas are flat and hidden by the outer panels, so very little in the way of finishing is required compared to doing a conventional car.
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Outer sill trimmed and almost ready to weld. Another patch removed from the footwell that was tacked and body fillered. You can see from the black underseal how much effort went into fitting that.
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And welded on. I put a bit too much heat into the middle and now have some distortion to deal with. Its only a family wagon, but am using this to develop some skills so will see what i can do about that. Was too late for a sunday for any hammering. Final photo is another use of a tap wrench to use as a welding clamp, as my clamps did not gave a big enough reach.
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