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Enjoying the updates mate.
The back end of a 9000 certainly seems to pick up rust. Mine had loads to do there. Looks like you’re cracking on well and a good plan will make the world of difference.
Good work!
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
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I do need to expand my tool collection to get into the rust in the tight corners, so if anyone has any suggestions please say. Great work on the Saab and T25 there. It's soul destroying, takes forever and is a really horrid task grinding everything back, especially any thick underseal. You may already have these, but having experimented with various tools stripping the underside of both my Golf and now T25, I can thoroughly recommend a cheap electric finger sander (and as many belts as you can buy) for getting up in the corners plus a cheap electric scraper/multitool for chugging through underseal. Comes off in strips rather than a wire knot wheel melting it and throwing it over everything in sight. Keep the updates coming  |
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I do need to expand my tool collection to get into the rust in the tight corners, so if anyone has any suggestions please say. Great work on the Saab and T25 there. It's soul destroying, takes forever and is a really horrid task grinding everything back, especially any thick underseal. You may already have these, but having experimented with various tools stripping the underside of both my Golf and now T25, I can thoroughly recommend a cheap electric finger sander (and as many belts as you can buy) for getting up in the corners plus a cheap electric scraper/multitool for chugging through underseal. Comes off in strips rather than a wire knot wheel melting it and throwing it over everything in sight. Keep the updates coming Thanks for the suggestion, a multitool has been on the wishlist for a while so perhaps now is the time. The underseal on the T25 is horrible and mrs8925 doesn't like angle grinders so this might be a winner. The finger sander is already a well established part of my arsenal. We've actually spent a lot of time on the T25 this week but nearly all of it has been taken up in the planning stages, finalising all the additions we want to add and making sure we have the right colour and length of cable in the basket. I still need to confirm a hook up socket, consumer unit and make a switch panel with water level meter and battery condition meter but otherwise we're ready to put in the first big orders. That said mrs8925 has done well wire brushing back the rust behind the dashboard, treating with hydrate 80 and coating in epoxy and then white primer. Just needs its final prep and top coat in the original pastel white.   I made a little bracket to hold a pin switch for the front grille to protect the alarm siren  I'm waiting on a rivnut tool and will need to weld a patch into the bulkhead to mount the siren and the air horns, I'll also make/find somewhere to mount the alarm ecu and relays for the headlight rewiring, then I can touch in and finish the internal side of the bulkhead and strip out, treat and paint he external side. All the attention paid to the T25 has meant a lack of progress on the 9000 though. Unfortunately all I've managed to get done is rid the arches of the last of the rust scabs, made a few more CAD templates and started turning some of them into metal.  And to finish off the spare wheel tray I re-applied some seam sealer and overcoated with epoxy.  |
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Last Edit: Sept 6, 2021 7:51:23 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Sept 6, 2021 15:08:57 GMT
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Looks nice and clean around that heater box area, great job. Can see through that very clearly on mine, rotten as hell  |
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Oct 10, 2021 23:58:33 GMT
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A little update for the past 5 weeks, small bits done here and there but unfortunately no progress again in the 9000. The van wiring modifications are almost done. Switched live feed taken from the fuse box for the radio via a changeover relay, and the 'changeover' feed run to a connector under the driver's A pillar. This will eventually be connected to a switched feed from the leisure battery so that the radio can be used while the van is parked up. Circuitry also extended for power antenna/remote which feeds an adapater box to use the standard aeiral for digital radio (supposedly works reasonably well) and continues to the connector with the leisure switched feed for the amps. Circuits either run from new fused feeds or extended from existing loom as necessary for a Slaughter House Customs GPS speedo, and coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges located on the A pillar in SHC pods. 4.2A double USB socket also in the dash. Interior lights (originally one over drivers door and one over sliding door, independant of each other and neither working) now extended to incorporate one over the passenger door, and all linked so that any door triggers all lights, and wired into a timer relay. Horn wiring modified as per factory spec for relayed dual tone horn. This actually now drives a compressor behinf the front grille for air horns, because why not! Just need the 'L' connector for the CE1 fusebox if anyone knows of one for sale. Still to add relays for the headlights which will receieve completely fresh wiring and plugs as the existing is scabby and coroded to say the least! Switch in the dash for emergency start from leisure battery via the split charge relay. In the engine hatch everything is very scabby, so the positive cable to starter was replaced with Brickwerks rather nice version and I remade the batter earth to alternator mount. First test of the chinese hydraulic crimps wasn't too impressive, the chucks seem to be a size larger than they're marked as. Other cables will be repaired or replaced as we go through it but in general the engine bay is another mini project in itself which will happen at some point. The only exception is the starter solenoid wire which is really mangled and nasty, so this will need to be cut short and a replacent section spliced in, and I'll modify it to run via a relay that will take the load of the ignition switch and allow me to use it as an immobilised circuit.   On that note I made a bracket to mount the alarm ECU neatly behind the dash out of reach, painted it at which point it kindly slipped off the hook and bounced around the garage floor. Could have cried! So that's now been stripped back to bare metal again and has just had its second-first coat of primer. Had to remake the front grille pin switch too to move the pin 10mm further back. Had my first play with rivnus and the Memfast tool for the ECU bracket, siren etc and have to say it's a really neat, compact bit of kit. Otherwise mrs8925 is making some progress in redesigning the interior. We tested the old propex heater and found the motor to be seized at the very least so sent it to them for further diagnosis. That came back as pretty much terminal, so we bought a brand new unit from them with some discount applied. Nice to have it shiny and new, and a new digital thermostat which uses the same CBE mounting as the water level and battery condition indicators we bought, so that can go into the redesign of the countrol unit. In other news I finally managed to find some stock for the Schroth crutch straps  And this morning I managed to snag another type 1 4.1 TorSen for (what is these days) a fairly reasonable price. I was going to avoid another type 1 because of the worm drive issues mine has but the seller was happy for me to split it on his driveway and inspect it first. Looked pretty immaculate inside so that can be stripped down, painted and bolted up to my refurbed diff hanger, and new side seals installed. Fingers crossed this solves the nasty vibration at ~70mph. Regardless the MX5 has now mostly been retired for the winter as my dad is preparing to move house and can't be bothered to take one of his cars, so I've taken it on a temporary basis so that we have a second family friendly(ish) car. The agreement is I'll sell it for him next spring when the 9000 is hopefully back on the road.  Not sure why it has 4x4 stance, makes for a very comfortable ride but it's a bit wallowy in the corners. Not that it inspires much confidence anyway. Can honestly sa I'm please I have no desire to keep it, but I'm grateful for it anyway. The kids like it...  And the current road-worthy fleet all together, curse word off the neighbours  |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Jan 23, 2022 23:50:51 GMT
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Another while without an update due to not much progress being made. I'm not sure why that is; other distractions, weather, lack of time, oh and the last time I tried to weld up the bulkhead it went terribly and I threw a strop. That's probably why. I later realised my wire reel had gone rusty and was binding on the liner but I was still in a stinking mood. The van's now due into the bodyshop in less than a month. They weren't expecting to weld the bulkhead and I wanted it done and painted so we could resintall the radiator and get it running and driving to load onto the trailer. Thankfully this time it went reasonably well, a bit of self-belief was restored and we'll hopefully get it finished in time. I realise I didn't take any before pictures, so have a crop of a screen shot of an old picture.  It's unclear to see but there were two self-tapper holes for the old alarm siren. Over the years the rot had set in and the vibration and the weight of the unit had fractured and split the bulkhead between the two points. A few holes were blown in the second attempt but I think this was due to thinned metal from my attempt to clean up attempt one. In the end I reached a stage where I was happy enough that there were no pin holes and a skim of filler would see it right enough.   The same goes for the inside but you'll have to take my word for it. The entire bulkhead will now be cleaned up and keyed for some epoxy primer and satin black (mrs8925's choice) from the gun, hopefully in the next week or two. This flurry of activity also spread to the garage where the new diff I picked up for the MX5 was de-rusted (lovely job!) hydrate 80'd, primed and hit with chassis paint - as per I seem to have lost any photos of this. Then I went a bit mad. I'd been looking at electroplating kits for a while as this was part of the MX5 refresh I wasn't happy about. As I hadn't planned to go to such lengths at that point all the bolts were cleaned up and sprayed with cold galv spray and hammerite. As expected it didn't take long for surface rust to come back without any proper protection. Now the 9000 'resto' is in sight I wasn't going to make the same mistake again so spent out on the kit, and then all the extra accessories you need to make a good go of it, then the 75l of deionised water...all said an done it was flipping expensive, but hopefully worth it. The diff bolts were going to be my first test subjects. I'd start off by de-rusting them by electrolytic cleaning  A day later, followed by a scrub with a brush  A wire wheel on a bench grinder cleaned them up ok, ready for the plating procedure.  Here is where I lost the instructions so did everything by memory. And didn't take pictures. 20 minute soak in alkaline cleaner followed by a quick dip in the acid pickle solution, then 30 minutes in the zinc-nickel plating solution, and finally a dip in the yellow passivate, rinsing in clean water between all steps. The outcome was...ok. I don't think I had enough faith in the passivate so left them in for too long, I should have inspected more at the plating stage as some of them haven't taken very well and need to be redone, and I think I did too many in one batch contributing to the inconsistent plating and meaning they knocked each other when they shouldn't have. I'll need to find the instructions as some guides say to pickle again after plating and before passivating, some don't. And I need another two tank heaters. Still, could have been worse   |
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2022 23:54:56 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Another weekend down and it feels like progress is as slow as ever, but we have finally gone from patchwork  To one colour  Even if it is only primer. Now this is the first time I've used 2 pack epoxy, we bought an HB Body kit from Jawel but what arrived was in Jawel's own tins and lacked any mixing instructions so I just stuck with HB Body's. Is unmixed epoxy usually so thick and gloopy it doesn't actually pour out of the tin? Horrible stuff to mix, the hardener and thinner brought it back a lot but it was still so thick my 1.7 needle was struggling, so I thinned it down a bit more to ~35%. I had hoped to get it thin enough to use in my mini gun so that I could fit it in the gaps much easier but no chance, and it actually unwound and blew off* the flow regulator cap. *The fact it was dirt cheap may have had something to do with it. Other than that a few other small jobs ticked off. 14 days to go until it's collected, it's going to be tight. Meanwhile I felt guilty abandoning the MX5 so took that out tonight. My brother-in-law gave a log from my last run a look over and made some adjustments, so I loaded the new map up and took it for a test drive down to (ex)SVA Imports in Dover. I wasn't sure from the internet whether they were still operating, but it seems not. Other than a cold start issue it's behaving itself fairly well at the moment, idle could be leaner but doesn't seem to want to go there.  |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2022 1:31:03 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Van goes in to the body shop on Monday so I took the week off to try to make some last minute progress. Got the front end painted in satin black   With a bit of paint left over we did a quick tidy up of the rad  Installed the radiator and pulled the wiring back through the holes  This is a new section of loom I made a while back to incorporate some changes; new headlight wiring run through relays as the old was corroded and the plugs had deteriorated, twin air horns (why not?), fan override, auxilliary coolant temperature and oil pressure senders to gauges, and tailgate pin switch to alarm. Tried a bit of DIY loom twisting using a cordless drill with some success and slipped over various sizes of PVC sleeving to match the factory loom. I need a slightly bigger sleeving than I have for two sections so will have to finish the job tomorrow then I can fully finish and secure it all.  We needed a new bottom hose from the engine, the replacement has a large rigid reinforcement inside at a T junction so wouldn't slide over the front-to-rear pipe fully thanks to these crush tubes sticking out    A bit of chat on Club80-90 suggested the crush tubes should be driven in fully, which was no easy job but allowed the hose to slide over almost as much as the original, good enough to secure nicely Auxilliary water pump reinstated.  Will fill the coolant system up for the first time in a good few months tomorrow and run the engine up to temperature. Still plenty more to do before next week too... |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Feb 16, 2022 23:00:58 GMT
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Coolant filled, bled as much as we could, dash cluster wasn't working so no idea where the temperature gauge was getting to. Worrying that I didn't hear the fan going but we had a thermometer gun on it and it seemed ok. The following day we went to start it and it point blank refused. poked a few things with the multimeter which raised further questions over the glow plugs. Turns out something in the wiring or relay isn't happy but I didn't have time to investigate so wired up an Emergency Cold Start 5000  Straight from the battery to the plugs for a few minutes and it fired up with a puff of smoke. I wanted to get all drilling and cutting jobs done before the bodyshop. I didn't quite manage it but the last big hole to make was to relocate the hook up to the rear panel. Rare action shot here  Didn't want to just hack out a square hole so shaped it to the body of the hook up and used stainless M4 rivnuts to secure. All being well this should be central between the number plate and the light, looks a bit odd without either attached.  And so with that done the interior units were taken out again and all purchased panels labelled and thrown in. Many more to be bought but we're awaiting the body shop's report so that we don't miss anything.  And finally, come Monday morning, away it went.  Delighted to have my driveway back again, I moved the MX5 back into it's usual position...very strange looking out and not seeing a big old van  So now I can concentrate my time on some of my other duties... |
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Last Edit: Feb 16, 2022 23:04:53 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Nice work! What's the plan of attack with the bodyshop? Keep the updates coming  |
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Feb 20, 2022 16:09:44 GMT
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Nice work! What's the plan of attack with the bodyshop? Keep the updates coming  The existing plan is for them to weld up anything on the exterior plus anything else structural and finish off with an exterior respray in the original Pastel White. Still to be discussed is to respray the inside, or at least the A and B pillars which are always on display, and any other bit of welding that come up. They're not doing a belts and braces strip of the underside so there may be other bits that need repair as and when, but generally the underside is really solid so I'm hopeful it's not much. When it's back from the work we'll pay the underside some attention with treatment and underseal. All the suspension needs to come off for a refurb and rebush anyway, and possibly a replacement fuel tank etc etc. We took a trip down there yesterday to talk over some details with the owner after a bit of confusion . Nice to see they'd already started with a few bits while we wait for the majority of the panels. We'll take a trip down on Wednesday to meet the welder doing the van to polish off the finer details.   Work currently confirmed is; new front lower panel, maybe deformation panel, cab steps, front arches and B pillars both sides,, repair to both floor pan corners, driver's side sill and upper panel, both rear arches and side panels (have a VW full panel for the left but can't find anything for the right), some repair to the inner structure/floor round engine hatch. A bit around the windscreen, bit around the gutter, little bit on the sliding door and replacement tailgate. Due to take them in the region of 3 months. |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Feb 20, 2022 16:52:56 GMT
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First job post-van was to swap the diff in the MX5...again. Ever since the rebuild last year it's had a wobble at 60-70mph I can't get rid of. The existing diff has noisy bearings and a slightly damaged gear anyway, so it was hoped this was the cause. Sometime last year I managed to pick up a local 4.1 TorSen Type 1, same as the current diff, and the seller let me inspect it before handing over the money. I stripped and painted it (can't remember if that's documented elsewhere in here) so have been falling over it for the past few months in the garage. Some might say the aftermath of a storm isn't the ideal time to take a car apart, and I'd agree. Nevertheless I really wanted the diff out of the garage and the wobble to be gone. Being that it's been almost a year since the last strip down I decided it would be an ideal time to clean up the underside and apply Lanogaurd over the Dinitrol underseal. This started with jacking it up and pressure washing it on Friday night after work so that it would be dry for Saturday. It was windy! Work started Saturday afternoon, after the visit to the bodyshop and some family duties. I'm pretty pleased with how well the Dinitrol has held up, still looked really fresh under there.   This will sound stupid but I'd forgotten how fiddly it is to take the diff out. By the time that was done it was tipping it down and I got drenched applying the Lanoguard, although it went on fairly easily with a few buckets of hot water to keep it runny. I could then turn my attention to the diff unit, because my existing carrier was already cleaned up and lacquered with upgraded bushes I swapped it over and used the bolts I'd replated. A few of them came out really badly in attempt no.1 so had a second go. They came out much better but still with issues  The plating doesn't seem to apply nicely to the bottom of the bolts, although strangely it has to only one or two from both attempts. Not sure why this is. Then I found out the new spring washers I bought didn't fit over the non-threaded sections of the longer bolts, and in the ensuing struggle some of the plating was damaged as was bits of paint on the diff. To be expected I guess and I was too desparate to care by that point. The finished article looked better than when I started at least!  By this time it was dark and still raining but I desparately didn't want to ruin my Sunday by having to get everything back out again to finish the job, so I kept going. Come 10pm everything was back together and torqued up  So this morning I just needed to drop the car off the stands, torque up the wheel nuts and take it for a test drive. Got a day time pic of my nice clean underbelly  So was it worth it? No, of course not. The wobble is still there. My next thought is the subfame which was new for last year's rebuild but I should probably check the run out at the hubs, as hubs and drive shafts were also 'new'. To be honest I think I've had my time with this car (sure I've said that on here before and still haven't got rid of it), even excusing this issue I'm no longer enjoying the crashy, harsh, rattly, loud ride. I'm definitely getting old. But this ongoign issue is really sucking the fun out of it and I'm not sure I can bear to strip it all down again. Besides, I have my eye on another piece of the Japanese auto industry named after a piece of posh headwear...we'll have to see about that one. |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Two months later the main bulk of the van is done, just a bit of dressing and finishing for the welder to do. It's been largely plain sailing, a few issues/disagreements with panel use but mostly drama free.        Still to do is the windscreen surround which, now they've removed the rubber trim, is looking pretty sorry for itself.  This confirms the roof will come off to fix it properly so watch this space, who knows what they might uncover. Frustratingly the past month or so has been pretty busy with family trips and this, that and the other meaning no progress on anything else. This weekend I've thankfully managed to get out and spend some time on the 9000. Really I need to get the rear end welding done while the van is away but I don't think it's going to be finished in time, no reason not to make a start though...after much procrastination. Passenger rear arch first, as it needed the least attention and I needed to ease myself in. Started with this  After a bit of chopping it became this  A little repair to the boot floor lip   Upper section of the tub tacked in  Before I could remake the lower section the chassis leg return lip needed some love  I should have been kind to myself and just cut an appropriately wiggly section of steel, but I wanted to get a bit of practice on the shrinker/stretcher so remade the return as a straight section and set to work manipulating it. After a lot of back and forth I made something I was reasonably happy with...  So buzzed it in...  And cracked out the pidgeon poo...  But it dressed off ok  Then on to the lower section, which really was more of a pain to make than I think it should have been. Live and learn.  Tacked in  And the pidgeons returned  This was a bit more pidgeony. I think the gap in the panels was too large in some areas and too tight in others, causing difficulties in some patches and too much distortion in others. Again, live and learn. I had to leave it here and pack up so I'll dress it off and fill in a few holes that I know are hiding behind the blobs tomorrow. Talking of blobs I had a moulten one land in my lap far too close for comfort so I now need some new trousers. Hopefully I can get this side completely finished before the long weekend is over. |
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Last Edit: May 1, 2022 21:53:06 GMT by oli8925
Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Well today didn't go quite so well. A late start, first job to dress yesterday's welds actually didn't come out too badly  Which left the front section to do. In this pic I've already welded in a new section at the left-most of the return.  Then, with time ticking, I thought I'd try to make the entire of the remaining section in one. It nearly worked, but not quite, so I ended up chopping it in two and starting up around the spring perch.  Obviously it didn't go too well. I don't remember the metal looking too bad on the outside after cleaning up, maybe it was just thin from the pressing, but bits of it blew holes immediately. I tried to press forward with the parts that would weld but I now need to cut out that patch and really test my shrinking skills. Fingers crossed the lower section, other than an awkward bit of shaping, doesn't cause too many issues. I'm also not getting consistent, nice penetration so something else to try to work out; could try the next power setting but perhaps overly cautious of blowing holes. |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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What is the welder you use? Just wondered if it is the same / similar to mine. I've been disappointed with it all the time I've owned it. I have used it tons and tons because it's the one I'm stuck with so just have to suck it up. I'd really like to buy something different just to confirm if my welding skills peaked a long time ago or if I'm limited by a carp welder.
Also, could your vibration be caused by an unbalanced prop-shaft. They have to be balanced.
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It's a Clarke 160TM, or something along those lines, with an uprated earth cable and clamp. I've often wondered the same, it's difficult to get a gauge when it's just you welding on a driveway alone. I keep toying with the idea of upgrading this some more, a decent euro torch conversion etc, but then wonder if it would make more sense to sell and buy a new R-Tech or something. Then again for the amount that I'm able to use it at the moment, with the restrictions working outside brings, I'm not sure it's worth it anyway.
Regarding the vibration, possibly, but it's the same prop I've had for the past 5 years or so without any issues so I was going to focus on the parts I'd changed first, i.e. Driveshafts, hubs and subframe left on that list. A guy local to me has a spare driveshaft I can swap out for diagnosing but I haven't had the opportunity to pick it up yet. I think in my head I'm now reasonably set on moving the MX5 on and starting afresh with something very different but I ideally need to solve this problem before it goes.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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I think they have to fix balance weights onto the propshaft. If they came off somehow then this could be the result. Given the level of tinkering you've got to with this car removing the propshaft to get it checked seems like it wouldn't be that much trouble.
I'm not surprised to hear you have the Clarke welder... guess what I've got! This makes me even more determined to get myself another welder as I'm not used to things going wrong when I'm fixing / making things... but for some reason all my welding has been substandard and did start to wonder if it was the welder causing it rather than my ability when I really have no trouble learning skills usually!
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330 
Club RR Member Number: 157
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May 11, 2022 13:35:39 GMT
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I may well have missed it earlier in the thread, but Re the vibration, have you checked the PPF alignment? That can cause some nice vibrations. Guide here |
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
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May 11, 2022 15:05:45 GMT
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Some solid progress on the van there, nice work! Coming together nicely and quickly too (motivating me to give my body shop a kick up the  !) |
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May 22, 2022 19:48:14 GMT
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ejenner - there are balance weights on the prop but I'm 99% sure they're still present. It would be very obvious to see if one had come loose and I've been under it several times since the vibration. I will however pay particular attention to it next time I'm there, probably changing the driveshaft.
Re the welder, I've been looking very closely at new R-Tech machines lately...
gryphon - yep, afraid so. The PPF alignment has been set every time the diff/gearbox has been moved about, and has been checked and rechecked. Pretty certain it's not that.
jmsheahan - it's coming along quite nicely. Some teething issue I won't go into detail about now but hopefully only a few weeks away from being ready. Although I'm liking having the driveway space...
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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