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May 26, 2020 11:29:06 GMT
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May 26, 2020 11:30:33 GMT
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You might remember that I had compression issues on cylinders 3 and 4 and the cause of that were leaking valves, I hoped a quick lap would fix these issues but not quite.   The leaking inlet valve in cylinder 3 was fixed with the lapping, the leaky exhaust valve in cylinder 4 however was not so simple:  You can see the seat looks uneven and thicker in the blue area compared the the green, also noting the thinner lapping band on the other seat on the left. No matter how much lapping it still wouldn't seal so I took it to a head specialist (phrasing). It seems that a worn valve guide had caused the valve to wear the seat so it's currently having a new guide and seat put in. Also replaced all the valve stem seals with new OEM ones. More to come in the new year! |
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May 26, 2020 11:32:46 GMT
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I've been catching up on a few smaller jobs in preparation to put the engine back together I got the main 12V feed from the battery to the fuse box cleaned up with a terminal box, rather than an M8 bolt and some electrical tape  I got the block prepped for painting, rather than going for the rusted metal aesthetic    I also honed the bores for the new rings to seat into and measured the bores for wear and out of round  If you take X to be side to side and Y to be forward and back. First numbers at the top of the cylinder and second number at the bottom, you get the following: Cyl 1 - X(0.02, 0.04) Y(0.04,0.05) Cyl 2 - X(0.02, 0.04) Y(0.05, 0.05) Cyl 3 - X(0.03, 0.04) Y(0.05, 0.05) Cyl 4 - X(0.02, 0.04) Y(0.05, 0.05) Cyl 5 - X(0.02, 0.04) Y(0.05, 0.05) Cyl 6 - X(0.03, 0.03) Y(0.05, 0.05) All well withing factory tolerances so all good here. I also measured the crank journals and both the rods and mains are all within factory spec. Having the Apexi turbo already out and semi apart, I stripped down the core of the turbo to inspect any damaged and try to locate any damaged components.    (Yes I know these aren't in the right order) Upon reassembly it seems that there is no damage to the internal components and the cause of the in-out play on the turbo was that the inlet wheel nut simply wasn't tight enough. Having tightened the assembly all of the play has gone and I think it should be usable again after a re-balance! |
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May 28, 2020 19:16:18 GMT
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So I started work on the front cross member, well, when I say I, I mean a friend. Seeing as I didn't have a means to bend the material up I needed some help.  With the metal folded up, I could get it mounted to the member   Which looked pretty neat mounted up  With the new rad mounted  Got the coil packs mounted up  Put the head on temporarily, looks great   |
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May 28, 2020 19:18:50 GMT
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Started sprucing up the eBay catch can   Fired the 3D printer up to get a MAC bracket and the oil cooler hose separators     Nice and tidy! Started work on the power steering system, seeing as the veins are now removed from the back of the pump and the output is blocked the return has to be changed from the factory set up.  The P/S cooling loop is on the HICAS side of the system so I had to reroute the rack return back to the front to go through an upgraded cooler. I found on hot days the fluid in the reservoir would overheat. Found a good place to mount the cooler  |
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May 28, 2020 19:21:30 GMT
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May 28, 2020 19:24:38 GMT
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Last Edit: May 28, 2020 19:24:49 GMT by tommy59
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May 28, 2020 19:27:25 GMT
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I got the piston rings mounted with the gaps correctly set and aligned  Pistons in  Got all of the pistons in and ready to go   Sump mounted  Popped the head back on, just to get a look, looks awesome!!  |
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Last Edit: May 28, 2020 19:28:00 GMT by tommy59
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May 28, 2020 19:32:06 GMT
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Last Edit: May 28, 2020 19:32:25 GMT by tommy59
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May 28, 2020 19:35:32 GMT
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Time for the install. I was doing this on my own with an engine crane and a cut cross member which does make the job a lot easier but still struggled getting it over the lip to the garage. It did involve some sketchy use of a scissor jack but got both front legs over in the end.   And touch down  There are a few marks in the purple on the firewall from some swinging donks but these things are very difficult to avoid when you're doing this sort of thing on your own. Hopefully can get them touched up! Now I have to admit that the engine mounts need replacing but at the moment I can't collect my new ones due to the current situation so I'm planning on swapping them out one by one before I get anything else fitted up. Started work on some smaller jobs like redoing the factory black paint on the headlights  ![]() You can see the difference between the two  Plenum placed on to check clearance  I've also wired in and placed my AEM wideband gauge  I also started some work on future parts I'll need. I want to retain the recirculating BOV that was on before but I couldn't find an adapter for the stock flange to match 2.5" pipe, I measured what I'd need and out it into CAD. Hopefully can get someone to make it out of billet for welding on to the pipework.  |
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Last Edit: May 28, 2020 19:36:09 GMT by tommy59
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May 28, 2020 20:06:09 GMT
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Great work, thanks
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May 28, 2020 20:06:22 GMT
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Engine looks so good. I'm currently rebuilding an rb25det neo for my 4 door.
I plan on running 400bhp as it's my daily driver. Would you recommend arp studs & cometic gasket or oem?
Also what is the black crinkle paint you're using? It looks excellent.
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May 28, 2020 21:18:17 GMT
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Engine looks so good. I'm currently rebuilding an rb25det neo for my 4 door. I plan on running 400bhp as it's my daily driver. Would you recommend arp studs & cometic gasket or oem? Also what is the black crinkle paint you're using? It looks excellent. Yeah I'm keeping an eye on yours don't you worry  Is your crank a long nose or short nose for the oil pump drive? ARP studs I can recommend, the OE ones need to be replaced with each disassembly because they're torque to yield, ARP's you can reuse and are a bit stronger. I've always used OEM head gaskets on mine because my block hasn't been decked. I think if you've had your head skimmed and the block decked it's certainly okay to use a multilayer steel gasket, but un-skimmed/decked it's a gamble on how well the factory machining was done on your engine. The stock gaskets are a lot more forgiving. The paint is VHT Wrinkle Black but not done as per instructions :') I use a lighter coat than what's recommended and get the heat gun straight on it rather than letting it air dry. It takes a bit of practice but easy enough once you've got the hang of it. |
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Thanks for the reply mate that's good info. I split the engine just for inspection purposes so it's completely standard. Seems like I'll be doing arp studs & oem head gasket then.
The effect you get with the paint is amazing.
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Last Edit: May 29, 2020 7:40:58 GMT by ianlea73
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ZXRob
Europe
Posts: 1,200 
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Great build, spent the last few days going through it all. I do love an R32 and this one is great!
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Great build, spent the last few days going through it all. I do love an R32 and this one is great! Thanks! I'm starting to get a bit lazy with the pictures and the writing! Need to take some more |
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I started to get working on the inlet side of the engine Everything is close enough to where it needed to be  I added the oil cooler sandwich plate and lines. You'll notice the fuel filter isn't in the usual place, I thought that moving it here would make it much more serviceable than usual. Also note the length of the oil cooler lines, I'm not sure why I made them this long, it may have been easier to install with the plenum in place.  New inlet gasket on which I was loathed to buy, there are £4.30 in Japan but all about £30 here.....  Power steering reservoir painted in the usual wrinkle VHT, I've had one of the returns welded up as the whole HICAS side has been blanked off and the lines removed.  Lower runners on   Now adding the top plenum was a bit of a disaster, unfortunately the bracket for the throttle cable hit the fuel filter and the oil cooler lines. At this point the only way to get it to fit was to put the fuel filter back in the stock location, so I had to move that back and remake all the fuel lines to suit. I also had to cut about 150-200mm of oil cooler hose out to lower them down below the runners, thankfully the AN fittings went back on with no troubles and I didn't get stabbed by frayed braid. I also had to work out all the sizes for the vacuum fittings on the bottom of the plenum which took a few attempts but they're all in now. The bolts also needed spacing by about 6mm to engage the threads and clamp properly.  |
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Last Edit: Jun 4, 2020 20:02:17 GMT by tommy59
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I added thermal shielding to the turbo oil and coolant lines  I remade the intercooler brackets out of thicker metal and got those swapped over  Now the stock throttle cable was slightly too short for the new throttle body location Plus had some lovely rusty brackets  ![]() I bought a universal cable but it wasn't OE quality so I decided to try and make an amalgamation of the two Throttle pedal was just as rusty but I'm starting to get bad at photographing everything Rust all cleaned up  Painted up and reassembled  I transferred the new longer cable and sheath to the stock hardware. I had to cut the end of the stock cable to take the pass through for the pedal and the flat end stopper. I used a 2mm drill bit to drill through the stock stopper, fed the cable through, moved it all over the car to get it in position and measure the length the cable would need to be. I marked it up, took it all back out and cut the cable to length. I ended up putting the stopper in a vice with the cable through it, now the hole is 2mm, the cable is 1.5mm. I used a blowtorch to heat the stopper up and fed solder into the stopper to flow between the cable and the stopper. Once it started dribbling out the bottom I stopped and it seems to securely hold the cable. Now I'm not 100% confident on this, I'm not sure what everyone else thinks? I added the bolt stopper behind as a second stop just in case.  I picked up an RB25 fan with now cracks compared to my collection of cracked RB20 fans. I had to clean all the grim off the fan as well as get the centre rust cleaned off and painted.   |
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Last Edit: Jun 4, 2020 20:05:51 GMT by tommy59
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Just a small update for this one. I picked my turbo core back up after a new oil seal and re-balancing, seems it was 4g out of balance  Reassembled the cold side   I'm waiting to get the exhaust housing back as one of the threads got stripped so is being helicoiled. I started another mini project which in my opinion is completely unnecessary but I could do it, so I did. Intercooler sprayer  I have no idea how well this will work, if at all, but for the sake of £4 mist sprayers and £2 of aquarium tubing might as well give it a go. It's hooked up to the pump for the rear window spray nozzle. Will try it at some point and report back. |
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Last Edit: Jun 4, 2020 20:07:16 GMT by tommy59
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS25stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Looks like a good build this. It's funny how many people don't click that you can put ARP studs in after dropping the head on. Get some beauty heads in every so often that look like somebody has attacked the area round the bolt holes with a hammer and chisel after they've tried dropping them over.
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