|
|
|
Sept 15, 2017 15:59:31 GMT
|
So I'm going to cheat a little here and Ctrl+C Ctrl+V this thread from another forum in bits and pieces. Why you might ask? The direction I'm heading with this project maybe isn't the same one as when I started so may be more appropriate for here, plus you guys love resto/mod work. This is where I started:  This is where I am now:  There's a lot of media to move across to here so keep an eye out for frequent updates! But in the meantime, let me know what you think! |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:23:26 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2017 16:26:56 GMT
|
|
Love it!.....and the perfect wheels for any R32. I like that you've kept the GTS bonnet too. Great looking car and a really satisfying transformation
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2017 16:46:45 GMT
|
|
|
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:21:24 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2017 18:07:20 GMT
|
|
Oooo moredoor, bookmarked!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2017 19:58:40 GMT
|
|
is that a full bar of soap in the footwells ? probably for luck, i hope you kept it
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 9:52:02 GMT
|
is that a full bar of soap in the footwells ? probably for luck, i hope you kept it Did not keep, was not 100% solid, kind of a gelatinous mess. But on the plus side, it's now giving an entire landfill site somewhere luck! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 9:55:43 GMT
|
|
|
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:22:10 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 9:59:15 GMT
|
Weekly Update Time Boot release and fuel door cable - absolute pain to replace Replacing the cable involved removing the front seat, the step trim, the pilar trim, the rear seat base (most difficult seat to remove ever), rear seat top and entire boot trim. I don't have pictures of this as after struggling with the rear seat for 45 mintues, I really wasn't in the mood. But it's done now and thats something else ticked off the list. With the fuel tank out and the fuel pump carrier disassembled, I treated it to a coat of Deox-C gel and a good scrubbing with a soft wire brush and it came out pretty good.   Before treating the tank itself I drained as much fuel out of it as I could; as you can tell it was definately past its best.  After the first round of tank cleaning, a lot of the rust on the bottom was ready to come off.   The solution was clear when it went into the tank, it came out very much not clear.  I also started painting the brake calipers for the 5 stud swap, pretty much have two done, although the may need touching up in a few places and I'm yet to sand the Nissan logo back to silver.   I have also been prepping the underside of the boot area where the fuel tank was whilst it is out. After a few sheets of sandpaper, some wire wheeling and a wire brush I laid down a coat of zinc primer.   After this had dried I threw down some black stonechip paint for a top coat before I use Schutz underbody seal.   |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 10:02:20 GMT
|
This turned up this weekend too, hopefully next weekend I can crack on and get the underbody seal on and finish this section off.  I have some fuel hose on order to replace the hose going from the top of the pump carrier to the fuel lines, which should be going on next weekend too. After having technical difficulties last week with the Schutz gun I finally got another one this weekend. Sorry about the quality of the pics, I ran out of daylight. Finished painting the fuel tank with zinc primer, stone chip and then schutz.   Finished cleaning the insde of the tank last week, it should be going back into the car next weekend. Also replaced all of the fuel hose at the back  A shot of the freshly undersealed rear  If anyone is planning on doing something like this, this is how much paint I went through for the fuel tank and underside up to the rear subframe.  |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:24:27 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 10:05:45 GMT
|
The Deox-C worked pretty well I thought. I got two 1kg tubs of it, I used 9 litres of hot water with 1kg of Deox-C; the hot water speeds up the reaction time between the solution and the rust, effectively removing it faster but it will work at lower temperatures too. Essentially I ended up with 18L of hot water and 2kg of Deox-C. Then all you have to do is leave it and turn the tank onto different ends every 24 hours or so, I left it in the garage where it was pretty cold but it still seemed to work. I'll try and get some pics up this evening of what it looks like inside now. A couple of pics of the tank after cleaning.   Not been a lot of progress recently as I have been away with work, but small update time: Picked up a few new filters and bits and pieces for this weekend coming  I ended up replacing the air and fuel filter today along with a fair amount of fuel hose   I also hooked up a battery today and to my suprise everything came to life  Indicators, sidelights, headlights, full beam, fog lights, reverse lights, brake lights. All bulbs working and all lights functioning. Even the folding wing mirrors and electric windows work. Impressive considering the amount of time it has been sat. Hopefully by this weekend coming the following should have arrived: Magnetic sump plug Engine oil flush 10L of oil for flushing through the engine 5L of decent oil Spark plugs Fuel pump The aim is to get it running this weekend, fingers crossed! |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:25:56 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 10:33:19 GMT
|
|
Love these! A mate had one when we were 17... 370bhp.
Interesting in the wet.
Does the HICAS Work?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 15:49:17 GMT
|
Love these! A mate had one when we were 17... 370bhp. Interesting in the wet. Does the HICAS Work? Yeah mine's near that now and can confirm, interesting in the wet! Binned the HICAS off before I even drove it, not work the risk! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 15:52:58 GMT
|
Good news, bad news and help needed So the fuel pump and the fuel tank are back in ish   The metal strap on the left now appears to be too short to fit around the tank properly? So I have bodged it for now any input would be appreciated. New battery sorted and temporary battery tray in until I get it welded up  Spark plugs removed and engine turned over by hand  Timing belt seems to look new?  Oil wasn't black either, so it must have been changed before it left Japan which is good news. Everything put back together, unfortunately it won't start. The fuel pump primes, I can hear it and the engine turns over but wont start. I'm thinking plugs, coilpacks or injectors. Check the video below and let me know if you know whats causing it to not start, any help would be great |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:27:12 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 15:57:53 GMT
|
Update time: Finally I have a spark. After testing all of the coilpacks and finding them to be within the acceptable range, messing about with the CAS, checking plugs and running ECU diagnostics, it appeared to be a grounding issue which is now resolved. Unfortunately it still would not start. I picked up some easy start and after spraying this through the throttle body it would start for about a second and then die; if you keep spraying as its trying to start it works and runs until it uses all the easy start. Problem number two: No fuel Seeing as it would start with a little help but then die, I assumed it was a fueling issue and pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and its attempted starting sounded the same. I popped off the fuel lines just before the fuel rail, put the ends in a bottle and primed the fuel pump which spat fuel out the lines; so the fuel pump is definitely working. Leaving only the fuel rail and injectors. Seeing as they haven't been opened for 10 years I assume they're either seized or clogged so this weekend I finally managed to get some time and I pulled them out which was a pig of a job, et volia:   It seems to use the same injectors as the RB20DET, correct me if I am wrong anyone. I will be dropping these off this week to get them cleaned and flow tested and fingers crossed this will fix the issue. I also managed to pick up a switch for a rear foglight yesterday morning after two hours in a breakers yard with an esteemed colleague from work; I actually ended up with five, but you can never have too many switches.  My job for today was to put the passenger seat back in as I had found the carpet damp and removed the seat to dry it out, as I had dried I assumed it would have stayed dry, unfortunately not, it was wet again. So rather than putting the interior back in, it ended up coming out to find the source of the water.  Other than the water there was no nasty rusty surprises which was pleasant. The leak seems to be coming from this area:  I assume the heat exchanger is near here somewhere and may be leaking? It's going to be a pain to get to but I would rather get this problem sorted now rather than later. I should be placing an order this week for a water pump, timing belt, drive belts, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and coolant. By the time I actually get all of that changed over I should have the injectors back. |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:28:49 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2017 15:59:56 GMT
|
I popped the ECU open when I was checking it and it looks totally fine which is great news, I forgot to mention earlier an LED was hooked up to the injector wiring loom to see if it was receiving signals from the ECU which it was. I'll definitely check the windscreen seal though! Not really a big update but I've been part gathering for a fortnight now and this will all be going in next weekend:  I have: Water pump Thermostat Coolant Nissan gasket Lower injector seals Upper injector seals CAS seal Tensioner pulley Idler pulley Timing belt Aircon drive belt Water pump drive belt Power steering drive belt The injectors will be sent for cleaning and testing tomorrow. Can anyone recommend which method of sealing to go for with the water pump? Nissan suggest just liquid gasket but the water pump I have has no grooves for the sealant to sit in and is supplied with a gasket. Sealant, gasket or sealant + gasket?  I also had the ball joints removed from the rear hubs for the HICAS removal kit I eventually will be fitting.  |
| |
Last Edit: May 20, 2020 18:29:42 GMT by tommy59
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 18, 2017 0:04:23 GMT
|
|
check that the drainage holes are clear there usually in the wings I had a problem with blocked drainage holes and the water had no where to drain and was coming in to the cabin down at heating exchange / speed controller
|
| |
|
|
lightyearman
Part of things
GYJDM - Grimsby based Japanese car club - Find us on Facebook
Posts: 639
|
|
Sept 19, 2017 0:46:22 GMT
|
|
bookmarked
|
| |
'89 Honda CRX siR Glassroof Flint black fully restored track beasty
'90 Nissan S13 Pignose - pass the mig wire
'86 Mini - matt orange, 13" Wellers, Project 2018
'97 LDV Convoy home built camper/tramper van
'04 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT. Anyone want it?
'91 Honda VFR400 NC30 17,000 km from new
'87 Honda XR80 4 stroke baby crosser
'03 Mini Cooper S - honestly, they are fun...
'15 VW T5.1 LWB daily brick
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 20, 2017 14:22:55 GMT
|
|
fantastic work !
re: the 3M 8861 underseal is that bitumen based or is it sprayable seam sealer (polyurethane) ?
|
| |
|
|
adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
|
|
Sept 20, 2017 19:21:58 GMT
|
|
I'm not normally into J stuff but I can't help wanting to see more of this!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 22, 2017 8:56:18 GMT
|
|
What a cracking project. I love an R32 and the dream is a GTR someday but the longer I procrastinate the pricier they get! Another option i'm toying with is getting a GTST and building an R lookalike. Similar to what your doing I suppose. Not sure if you "do" Youtube but check out Youtuber Tommyfyeah, he has an R32 GTR and Pulsar GTiR and his buddy Grant (Grit) has a four door R32.
|
| |
Last Edit: Sept 22, 2017 9:00:11 GMT by daver555
|
|
|
|
) where I was looking for a small daily as the RX-8 I have is killing me in fuel. I ended up looking around a garage and spotted something nestled in the corner forgotten about. It turns out the car was imported into the UK in 2004 and was never registered over here or driven and just sat in a yard for 10 years. Aside from a rusty battery tray the body appears to be rust free, which is good.
