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I got the tray welded up, by what turned out the be probably the worst welder. It doesn't look too bad from on top but underneath looks awful, I'm probably going to get it cut out again soon and done properly because it will bug me.   The car went for it's MOT yesterday and it passed with no advisories which was good. The fuel gauge that wasn't working fixed itself on the way to the garage too! Unfortunately it sounds like it's still running on five cylinders. I re-taped the coil pack loom  I also took the coils out again and tested them, they were all 0.9 Ohms which is within manufacturer spec (0.6-0.9 Ohms). Took out the plugs again after cleaning them before they went in, here they are in sequential order (1-6).      It looks like plug four is fouling, starting the engine with coil pack 4 unplugged sounds the same as having it plugged in which suggests it may be the coil pack failing. When the car was warmed up properly yesterday on the way back from the MOT test station the misfire was slightly worse, potentially the insulation breaking down more at higher temperatures? I have put all new plugs in the engine and shifted coil pack four onto cylinder one. I ran the car for 20 minutes and took the plug back out and it still looked shiny new. I don't know whether the plug is firing correctly or not at all. Any help would be appreciated. |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 11:54:02 GMT by tommy59
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So it's been a really long time since I updated this. I was out in America with work for a few weeks which knocked things back. When I got back I did a compression test and got the following: 1 - 179PSI 2 - 172PSI 3 - 178PSI 4 - 187PSI 5 - 179PSI 6 - 181PSI So the engine seems pretty healthy. I had some delrin coilpack rails turn up whilst I was away so I fitted those with the hope of fixing the misfire.  Unfortunately the misfire still remains so I have ordered some Splitfire coilpacks and hopefully will have those soon. I also gained an issue where the car would hunt for an idle, I cleaned up the idle control valve.   Which didn't fix it but won't hurt. Turned out to be the MAF again, just needed a quick clean. I also sold my RX-8, got the Skyline insured and got it registered. I ordered plates today so it should be on the road at the end of the week. Next on the list is a manual conversion. |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 11:55:21 GMT by tommy59
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 So I wasn't happy with the battery repair that was done before so I had it redone.   Big thanks to Bobby at Zealou5 for making it look like factory, matching paint colours and undersealing it afterwards. Also picked up an RB20DET block for spare  |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 11:56:34 GMT by tommy59
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 11:58:52 GMT by tommy59
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It's been a long time since I've updated this, I've mainly just been driving it and seeing what breaks. The only thing that's let go so far has been the CAS unit. I was getting a horrible rotational noise from the engine, firstly I wondered if the cambelt had come loose and was rubbing on something but there was no sign of this. I tried to turn the spindle on the CAS unit and it would barely turn, when it did move it felt horrible and rough. I opened it up and a load of metal flakes poured out so it seems the bearing in the back of the unit must have gone. I ordered a replacement and all is well. I also picked up a HKS Priest cat back system and de-catted the car whilst I was down there.   I finally got around to getting some wheels, Rota Grids 17x8.5J ET30:      I'm really happy with how they fit, just flush. My plans for the winter are to convert the front end with a GTR bonnet and bumper; replace the discs and pads all around as the discs are ruined; and get a full respray ready for Spring 2016. |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:13:07 GMT by tommy59
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I'm back, it's been nearly four months since an update. Changed jobs, moved house, took the car off the road for the winter. It's been a hectic few months but I got a few things done. The last time I drove it there was a lot of squeaking and knocking from the rear so I gave up replacing a few things and just decided to go for everything. I took the subframe back off with a super safe jacking technique  Rebuilt the rear brake calipers  Replaced my rear ARB, from top to bottom: stock, Whiteline 22mm, GTR 26mm.  I went with the 22mm to keep the rear slightly softer than the front when I replace the front bar to something like 24mm.  New adjustable arms, the knuckle has been polybushed as have the LCA's.  Now as you're all aware, the harder something is to get to, the more likely it is to break. Based on that principle I don't want to risk the hoses under the inlet manifold so off it comes.  Funky bolt combinations.    Some tasty oil deposits, might need a catch can.  |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:16:51 GMT by tommy59
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Now for the best bit, tasty corrosion.   This split when I resilience tested it.  More hose woes.  This needs to be replaced as well, there was a lot of movement on this.  After the state of everything rubber I ordered brand new everythings from Japan, I don't want to be doing this again for a while. As soon as the hoses and pipes arrive I'm going to get them on and get the car back on the road. Next step will be getting the arches rolled so it's actually driveable again. Then it's new discs, pads, caliper rebuild and a goddamn manual box. Yeah I think I have, I considered getting it welded and re-zinc plated but I got a replacement for around £40 before delivery, import duty, VAT etc, part number is: 11060-72L00 |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:18:26 GMT by tommy59
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New steering coupler bush in   My OEM parts arrived   Started putting things back together (Yes I did jubilee clip those hoses on)  Huge heater hose    Back together  Bled the system  Smokey start but once all the water in the exhaust had been burnt out along with the coolant I split between the exhaust and its heat shield it was fine.  Back on summer wheels  Sit-Rep: Rear tyres still rub an incredible amount A/C pump seems to be leaking something (If anyone knows anything that would be ideal) Heard a cracking sound from inside the dash - no hot air (I'm assuming the mechanism for the butterfly has snapped) |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:21:45 GMT by tommy59
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It's been a really long time since I've updated this and I'll be honest, not too much has happened. The car now lives down with me in MK, so it made it all the way down there with no break downs which was a major win. Because it makes naff all power it even did 30mpg?!? The heater fixed itself on the long drive, the A/C pump has stopped leaking. New steering wheel and quick release:  Pointless yet mildly satisfying LED stuff:    Can fully recommend doing the T10's behind the dash cluster. The front and rear indicators are now LED's along with a eBay indicator relay to stop the double flashing. Since being down here I got the arches rolled so no more rubbing for me! But its still sitting too high:  De-wipered the rear because it didnt work and it looked stupid:  Replaced the utterly non functional brakes with working ones:     Apologies for the potato quality pictures, I forgot to bring the camera. Other than that not much has changed, the car has been faultless. Big things around the corner though, I have an RB20DET and an RB25 manual box on the way from Japan and due some time in July. I've got a Tomei LSD lined up along with a few other bits and pieces. Watch this space... |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:23:39 GMT by tommy59
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Another small update and some picture whoring. Needed to stiffen the rear end up so I took a trip down to Garage-D to pick up a rear strut brace. Came in a "lovely" fake carbon finish with red ends.   It really wasn't for me.    Went with black ends and gunmetal bar, with glitter paint. Had to cut some trim to get it to fit in cleanly, I hate ruining original stuff but needs must. I think it was quite a clean install.  I picked up some new lengthened tie rods and rod ends because I'm sick of standard lock and my rod ends are destroyed after 8 months of gentle use.  Next was to address the issue of the rear end becoming progressively softer and sloppier; wasn't long before I found the culprit:  Not good Re-tightened it to VFT spec and I'll find a way of securing it with wire as well. Lowered it all the way down to see what it would look like:   |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:25:35 GMT by tommy59
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:27:25 GMT by tommy59
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Cleaned the bay   Said goodbye to these    Made these little engine crane adapters for the engine, which saved me buying some.  Got rid of this filthy relic  Midway through tackling some rust  Now I'm here  Will finish undersealing this week, new engine and box arrive next week along with a full gasket kit and a few other bits and pieces. So I can build that up and collect all the other bits for the swap, brake pedal, clutch pedal, clutch, flywheel, prop, speed sensor, G/Box mount etc |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:30:40 GMT by tommy59
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heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848 
Club RR Member Number: 111
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1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS25heathrobinson
@heathrobinson
Club Retro Rides Member 111
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These four-doors look great, and those wheels really set it off. It's going to be excellent when it goes as well as it looks too
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excellent work on this  whats the USP of the splitfire ? is it just a tech name for aftermarket coil packs |
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These four-doors look great, and those wheels really set it off. It's going to be excellent when it goes as well as it looks too Cheers! It definately does now  |
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excellent work on this whats the USP of the splitfire ? is it just a tech name for aftermarket coil packs Splitfire are Japan made plug and play coils, got a reputation for being better than the OEM Nissan coils and much better that the eBay stuff! Cheers! |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:32:50 GMT by tommy59
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Sit Rep: Bay is ready to be painted and new steering rack bushes fitted  Brake servo is painted:  Engine and box arrived   I'm a bit irritated, after being messed around by the delivery company the company I bought the engine and box from have supplied an RB20 box rather than the RB25 box that I ordered, so that needs to go back ASAP. "Sweet" JDM screamer pipe    Not really much use for anything, all the welds are cracked or not welded all the way around. Some more JDM bodges: Mad boost "controller"  Earthing kit:  Need some new engine mounts, I'll try and get hold of some NISMO ones from Japan  I now have turbo power though  Must have been running a vented bonnet in Japan  |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:36:36 GMT by tommy59
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Stripped the motor down    Everything looks in pretty good condition. I have a full gasket kit to rebuild with, and ARP head studs. I had a massive fight with all the exhaust studs which resulted in most of them breaking in the head with hardly any force being applied so I'll need to get those removed and order a whole new set just to be sure. This is everything I managed to get done yesterday afternoon, I'll try and get some more work done today. So I cracked the sump off as there was a dent in the bottom and I wanted to make sure the oil pick up hadn't been damaged.   Thankfully it was fine, but to reseal the sump I had to scrape all the gasket off, took me about two hours really anally doing it  Needed forearms of Thor to apply all the sealant in the recommended 5 minutes  Full gasket and sealant kit  Replaced the water pump   Scraped all the old headgasket off  Little bit of temperature difference between intake and exhaust sides of the head for some reason?   |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:39:51 GMT by tommy59
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Cam covers cleaned up, they'll get painted the same time as the engine bay  Head will be going off to get skimmed shortly and have the snapped exhaust studs drilled out  |
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Last Edit: May 21, 2020 18:40:33 GMT by tommy59
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whats the USP of the splitfire ? is it just a tech name for aftermarket coil packs