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Got the turbo mounted up     I needed to slightly adjust the heat shield for the manifold  Made a small covering blank to cover the gap between the defi's and the headunit  Started making up some of the pieces I need for the engine bay  Next up is the pipework which I've been putting off for ages |
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Great work, love the crackle black finish you choose
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Great work, love the crackle black finish you choose +1. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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There’s a joke in there somewhere with John West and tuner.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:05:58 GMT
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This is long overdue an update. It's now up and running, the first start was an anxious moment as I've never done a bottom end rebuild before but all went relatively well. It made good oil pressure and no strange noises so win win there. So at this point in time I've put 500 miles on the engine since the rebuild and there haven't been any major issues. I have an issue with stalling if you dip the clutch and roll up to a stop but as long as you tap the throttle it's OK, I suspect this is due to be fiddling with the cam timing and not telling the ECU yet! In the process of fault finding I checked the fuel supply   This is entirely my own fault for leaving it with a tank of fuel inside it for nearly a year. I suspect that this is the result of some of the fuel additives in VPower breaking down, but happy to be proven wrong! Now at the first oil change at 100 miles or so gave me a mild heart attack. Not because of this, which isn't too bad  But because of this  50% of you will be sharing my panic 50% might assume I've been panning for gold I ripped the filter apart to check for debris with a magnet (not so bad)  Note the outlines of two strip magnets on the back side. For the price of about £3, totally worth it to catch pieces like this  Now I'll put you out of your misery and tell you where the glitter came from. I'd previously changed the DSG fluid in a gearbox and not bothered to clean the pan out afterwards, leaving little flakes of I assume synchro rings. Panic over! |
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Dec 20, 2020 19:16:20 GMT
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Little picture nearing the end of 500 miles  I also managed to score another set of wheels for cheap. They had come off an imported S15 but were mismatched, we suspect due to the previous owner in Japan smashing one of the wheels into a kerb and replacing one with a completely different size to the others. I now have: 3 x 17x8.5J ET30 1 x 17x8.0J ET45 Of course I will be matching the set up!  They're not in perfect condition, one's been kerbed and all need new tyres but for just over the price of one new one for the set, it was a good deal. See the kerbing below, I've knocked any sharp edges off so won't cause a problem and would like to use these as track wheels  Currently I use 245/40R17 tyres but I struggle finding a lot of options in this size so I thought I'd try 255/40R17 as it's a bit more common They're 7mm wider and 8mm taller (4mm taller in the wheel arch) Unfortunately, going to have to go back to 245/40 as they're not going to clear.  So close yet so far But here's a finished engine bay  I've got it booked in for mapping in the new year after being let down by one garage this year. Hopefully that fixes the stalling issue! |
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Dec 23, 2020 20:19:51 GMT
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Such a handsome car. The 4 door is often overlooked but people are missing a trick. The Enkeis look great, be nice to locate a match for the others
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Club Retro Rides Member
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Sandro
Part of things
Posts: 17
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Dec 23, 2020 20:42:58 GMT
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This is awesome. Really enjoyed reading through this thread!  |
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IG: @burnthismk2
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Oct 13, 2021 19:24:11 GMT
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They often say it's the little things that make all the difference. This car only ever came with the front floor mats, the rears were missing. I've been looking for a matching rear set for over 5 years now. One lucky day, a rear set came up, the only time I've ever seen a matching set of rears. One call and twenty minutes later I was on the way to get them.   On my general tidy up mission I finally addressed the two small electrical problems I had, the drivers window switch was temperamental at best and the climate control display either showed nothing or everything. The drivers window switch issue turned out to be a window regulator with a cracked solder joint which was easy enough to repair with a soldering iron   One of the other solder joints is starting to crack but until it fails I'll leave well enough alone. The climate control turned out to just be a corroded pin connection which was solved by disassembly and reassembly. It also included a free imported insect.  The next thing to sort before the mapping was the power supply to the fuel pump. Old Nissans are notorious for not supplying the fuel pump with the 13.7V from the alternator. I'm not sure if it's the age of the wiring, the distance between the fuse box and the fuel pump or the gauge of the factory wiring that cause the under voltage issue or if its a combination of all of those. Either way the fuel pump needed a direct source from the battery. Handily, I'd already relocated the battery to the boost so didn't need to run wiring the whole distance of the car. The factory wiring still serves a purpose, but now instead of feeding the fuel pump it switches on a fused relay. On the other side of the relay is a direct 12V feed from the battery with an earth direct to body rather than earthing back through the loom.     With that, it was on to get it mapped post rebuild.  |
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Oct 13, 2021 19:51:36 GMT
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Thankfully the car survived the mapping process and picked up a bit of power. The spark plugs needed to be swapped from BKR6EIX to BKR7EIX so just one heat range colder to cope with the power. In intake hose also proved problematic, collapsing under the amount of air the turbo was sucking in. A support piece needed to be placed inside the hose to stop the collapse.  With these small changes and the boost control set up properly it achieved 340WHP so should be somewhere around 400BHP at the crank.  With this milestone checked off it was time to get it ready for a track day. My £3 eBay brake fluid tested informed me the moisture content was above 4% in my brake fluid so that needed to be changed out.   Bit ashamed of this one, it definitely needed doing  Based on this I also bled the clutch while I was down there as it wasn't a big job. The morning went well, but by the afternoon I started to feel the clutch pedal getting sticky on the return travel which definitely wasn't correct.  On further inspection the clutch master cylinder was leaking back into the cabin. Electing to call it quits for the sake of making it home I headed off. Refusing to be beaten by leaky seals I pilled  Also note the brake fluid around the bleed nipple for the slave cylinder, I also had small seepage from the clutch master bleed too.     I polished the piston back up and replaced the seals   Rebuild the slave with new seals, return spring and hardware  Unfortunately Nissan and time had the last laugh as it turned out the seats for the bleed ports had been damaged and wouldn't seal correctly.  Annoyed and running out of time and patience I pulled the trigger on new units   As usual, the bolt on parts didn't bolt on and I ended up having to shorten the push rod for the piston on the master by about 10mm with the trusty angle grinder. A simple but annoying fix. I hate throwing OEM parts away and refuse to let things die so a fixing attempt was made! |
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Superb thread love the car 😍
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Oooo I remember this car, it was in my old workshop in MK for a little while many years ago! Glad to see you're still cracking on with it after all this time, hope you're well too.  |
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Oct 14, 2021 18:39:26 GMT
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Refusing to be beaten by a smushed sealing surface for the bleed port, I made a lapping tool from an old bleed nipple filed down on the drill   After some lapping the joint sealed better but not fully, in the end I found out the seats are cut at 45 degrees i.e. with a 90deg tipped drill bit. Now as normal drill bits are 118deg I had to buy some spot weld bits which have a 90deg tip. After a quick kiss with one of these the seats were back to how they should have been and all sealed correctly so at least I have the OEM originals back as spares! Unfortunately 6 years had taken their toll on the damper dust boots with them splitting on all but one corner.   While I was in here doing the dust boots I might as well clean everything up and also address a problem. Even with the stiffer springs and thicker roll bars I find the car rolls too much for my liking on the track so took the opportunity to up the spring rate by 2kg going from 7/5 front/rear to 9/7 which is what these coilovers actually are delivered with now. The new springs are also 25mm shorter at 175mm  Back in  Now rinse and repeat for the other three units.     |
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Oct 14, 2021 18:56:59 GMT
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Emboldened by my previous fixes of problems and non problems alike, I turned my attention to something which definitely wasn't a problem; the placement of my air filter. It was attached directly to the end of the MAF which in principle was fine, however I always felt like half of the filter was blocked by the wheel arch and it wasn't optimal. I wanted the filter to be here, but connected of course.  While I thought about how this should be achieved I got to reinstating some of the factory intake system but tweaked to ram some cold air up to where the filter would now be positioned.  This comes out just below the headlight  During this process, I remembered I had a 3D printer that I should probably actually use again, so I took measurements of the MAF mounting plate and some dimensions for the piping and fired up the CAD software. Printers have come a long way since I got mine and it's a bit touch and go sometimes, but we'll manage.  All printed, taped together and checked in position  After a thorough tiger sealing it's now a single piece rather than two flanges and a joiner.   Et voila  Again, this probably serves no practical purpose, but theoretically should be better therefore it is better. With my improved intake firmly installed I headed off to another track day. Unfortunately it was a wet morning and it was displeased at being asked to drive in a straight line so had to wait a while for everyone with FWD / 4WD / TCS cars to dry the track out for me but once that was done it did well. One small leak from one brake caliper bleed nipple (common theme here) but it wasn't big enough to cause issues so pressed on. The provided photographer took a liking to it so got a nice few free photos out of it.    With summer over and no V-Power in sight, it's time to have a look at some little things to do over winter. I've got some paint issues on the inner rear arches that needs attention as is starting to peel after the respray but have some touch up paint. Need to have a look at the leaky caliper but other than that it's near enough ready for next year! |
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