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Now we're up to date!
It's tucked away for winter now so now's the best time for a joblist.
I've struggled to define a style for this car because when I started I wanted something that was fast but good value. But now I've eneded up with somethinbg expensive thats fast which isn't always a bad thing because new parts tend to be more reliable. I've decided I want to go in an OEM+ direction with this now, imagine if Nissan offered a clubsport package when this was sold.
I would really like to get a cage in the back of this, somewhere safe to hold the harnesses, stiffen up the chassis and worst come to worst protect me if this decides to be upside down at any point. I hate the thought of cutting the carpet but needs must.
So, joblist:
Check compression when warm - Last result weren't great but these were done cold, albeit before it had 18PSI of boost rammed down its neck. If its bad, will need to rebuild the bottom end.
Replace BOV - Currently leaking and slowing turbo spool
Check wastegate sealing on the turbo - Same reason ^^^
Rebuild power steering pump with OE kit as it's leaking again
Redo intake pipework to have front facing throttle body to clear everything up
Install wideband gauge - Runs rich at the moment, could be leaking BOV though
Replace plugs with ones with a better heat range
Replace dash LED bulbs
Replace blowing exhaust gasket
Replace front traction rods with kinked ones to stop the tyres rubbing
Replace rear camber arms with better designed ones
Fix quick gauge wiring job
Heat shields around the turbo
Roll cage
Fix leaking rear tail light
Either GTR or vented bonnet to reduce bay temps
Replace 2-way diff with OEM VLSD
Replace CV boots with OEM items
Get the damn thing painted
Gearstick surround trim
I think thats all.... for now
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good result on the dynos. so whats the implications of running actuator spring strength alone, slower spool up and a bit of creep at higher rpm ?
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good result on the dynos. so whats the implications of running actuator spring strength alone, slower spool up and a bit of creep at higher rpm ? Thanks! So 360bhp is borderline on the limit of bottom end reliability from what I've read so upping the boost might be a bit risky. Also the turbine inlet and compressor wheels are made from different materials. The compressor wheel is steel and the exhaust wheel is ceramic; ceramic wheels give faster spool up times due to being lighter and therefore having lower inertia values compared to their steel counterparts. Now the steel and ceramic parts of the turbo are bonded together and after about 20PSI on this particular turbo they stop existing as one part and become two  . So keeping it at 18PSI on the actuator should keep a bit of longevity in the turbo. From what I understand creep only occurs when the amount of boost being produced over the desired limit cannot be removed by the wastegate, i.e. the wastegate opens too slowly or the diameter of the gate isn't large enough to evacuate the volume of exhaust being produced. With respect to spool times, the wastegate on this turbo is adjustable so the preload on the spring can be adjusted so change spool times. With low preload values the wastegate will open at a lower boost levels and gradually open further until its fully open at the boost limit. With higher preload values the wastegate won't open until later giving faster spool up times but will still open fully at boost limit. So no real disadvantages as far as I'm aware, you're just limited to the boost level controlled by the spring, 18PSI in this case which is fine for the application. |
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Whilst I fully understand why you would 'Scrub' out your number plate in the pictures, it's a bit of a schoolboy error to leave the reg at the top of your dyno sheets... lol.
Sweet car by the way.
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-(
10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily
03 Import Forester STi - Sold
98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-(
99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold
02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX
88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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Whilst I fully understand why you would 'Scrub' out your number plate in the pictures, it's a bit of a schoolboy error to leave the reg at the top of your dyno sheets... lol. Sweet car by the way. There's versions with that edited out as well, obviously got a little over zealous linking the pictures in! haha Thanks  |
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good result on the dynos. so whats the implications of running actuator spring strength alone, slower spool up and a bit of creep at higher rpm ? Thanks! So 360bhp is borderline on the limit of bottom end reliability from what I've read so upping the boost might be a bit risky. Also the turbine inlet and compressor wheels are made from different materials. The compressor wheel is steel and the exhaust wheel is ceramic; ceramic wheels give faster spool up times due to being lighter and therefore having lower inertia values compared to their steel counterparts. Now the steel and ceramic parts of the turbo are bonded together and after about 20PSI on this particular turbo they stop existing as one part and become two . So keeping it at 18PSI on the actuator should keep a bit of longevity in the turbo. From what I understand creep only occurs when the amount of boost being produced over the desired limit cannot be removed by the wastegate, i.e. the wastegate opens too slowly or the diameter of the gate isn't large enough to evacuate the volume of exhaust being produced. With respect to spool times, the wastegate on this turbo is adjustable so the preload on the spring can be adjusted so change spool times. With low preload values the wastegate will open at a lower boost levels and gradually open further until its fully open at the boost limit. With higher preload values the wastegate won't open until later giving faster spool up times but will still open fully at boost limit. So no real disadvantages as far as I'm aware, you're just limited to the boost level controlled by the spring, 18PSI in this case which is fine for the application. agree! although my understanding of a boost controller is intercepting the signal (pressure) down the vac hose between inlet manifold and actuator (or compressor housing and actuator, not sure what the source is here) so having no boost controller the actuator is seeing manifold pressure sooner, so could crack open sooner? or is it literally not even connected to actuator ? |
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Thanks! So 360bhp is borderline on the limit of bottom end reliability from what I've read so upping the boost might be a bit risky. Also the turbine inlet and compressor wheels are made from different materials. The compressor wheel is steel and the exhaust wheel is ceramic; ceramic wheels give faster spool up times due to being lighter and therefore having lower inertia values compared to their steel counterparts. Now the steel and ceramic parts of the turbo are bonded together and after about 20PSI on this particular turbo they stop existing as one part and become two . So keeping it at 18PSI on the actuator should keep a bit of longevity in the turbo. From what I understand creep only occurs when the amount of boost being produced over the desired limit cannot be removed by the wastegate, i.e. the wastegate opens too slowly or the diameter of the gate isn't large enough to evacuate the volume of exhaust being produced. With respect to spool times, the wastegate on this turbo is adjustable so the preload on the spring can be adjusted so change spool times. With low preload values the wastegate will open at a lower boost levels and gradually open further until its fully open at the boost limit. With higher preload values the wastegate won't open until later giving faster spool up times but will still open fully at boost limit. So no real disadvantages as far as I'm aware, you're just limited to the boost level controlled by the spring, 18PSI in this case which is fine for the application. agree! although my understanding of a boost controller is intercepting the signal (pressure) down the vac hose between inlet manifold and actuator (or compressor housing and actuator, not sure what the source is here) so having no boost controller the actuator is seeing manifold pressure sooner, so could crack open sooner? or is it literally not even connected to actuator ? Correct on intercepting the pressure, so on this set up the boost control solenoid is mounted between the wastegate and a point in one of the intercooler pipes just after being compressed by the turbo. I could have plumbed into the inlet manifold but I figured if I had a boost leak somewhere the boost being produced by the turbo and the boost getting to the inlet could be different. The controller would be trying to get to it's desired limit not knowing there was a leak before the controller and this would cause the boost to go higher than aforementioned 20PSI danger threshold on the turbo. At the moment the controller is basically just acting as a boost gauge so the actuator can see boost pressure in "real time" so yeah will open sooner than if the boost controller solenoid was bleeding off pressure. |
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I'm back after a 7 month hiatus, what with winter and moving house this has been somewhat neglected but hopefully have a good set of updates coming up. Let me catch you up. Spent a few months on the road before winter set in   Tried some big boy wheels on, they didn't fit  Got a new BOV which has really helped with holding boost  Back on the road post winter with horrible arch gap  Fixed my flashing dash bulbs which for once stayed lit up for this picture   You can't tell too well but they're a lot lighter and actually work. Now we come to the bad bit, oopsie   This has finally spurred me onto doing the last thing which really lets it down, the horrible paint Rather than paying the £2k+ I've been quoted for a full respray I'm going to be having a go myself and finally sorting the rest of the body work as well   Also picked up some spats  Plus I had to make some new clips for the bottom of the spats  All of the paint prep materials have been ordered, fillers, primers etc etc. Still need to source GTR rear spoiler, vertex skirts and potentially GTR bonnet and then the painting can commence, will keep everything updated! |
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Also picked up some spats
Hello ! is it fiberglass?
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How did you make the clips for the spats?
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May 21, 2020 19:32:05 GMT
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I have not kept this updated, literally at all. At least I now have about two years of updates to share! I have not kept this updated :no: I got some meaty tyres to sort the chassis balance out   I blew up another CV boot, again, this is boot number 5 that chose to end it's life  I've stopped using the universal ones that I normally use when I need them fixed fast, got some OEM style hard rubber ones so I'm hoping these last longer than the normal 6 months I got the rust on the door replaced with a new panel that was bead rolled to the same profile, it warped a little bit when welding it in but nothing a bit of filler won't fix   I took it to another small track day after I lowered it a little, sits at a better height now, hopefully less 4X4 jokes @dan6061  Car was great but had two small let downs, the knocking diff and the standard brakes. It got to the point where it wouldn't really stop for roundabouts on the journey back, checked the pads when I got home and there was some material but there was just no stopping power. Has anyone had any problems with EBC yellowstuff like this before? I picked up a GTR bonnet and found another skyline friend   I had two options at this point, stick with the standard brakes and refresh the pads of go bigger.... |
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May 21, 2020 19:34:55 GMT
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Wellllll I decided to go bigger! And sexier....    I've included our favourite drinks for reference haha These are 6pot calipers with a 324mm disc (same disc as 350Z)   They fill up a 17" well, if I wanted to go bigger I'd have to move up to 18"s, on a side note this is my only remaining centre cap as all of the others got too hot from brake temps and left the wheel at speed Picked up some more JDM goodies  Unfortunately the Apexi hard pipe kit for an RB20 in an R32 doesn't fit an RB20 in an R32 with an Apexi turbo.... go figure  Got a shift boot FINALLY and new NISMO knob  Picked up a genuine GTR grill from a friend to go with the GTR bonnet  Had to knock up some replica brackets on the 3D printer  I wonder if they stole the design for the grille from the bottom half of the GTS bumper?? |
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May 21, 2020 19:36:12 GMT
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Update#3 Did another track day that went well bar boiling the P/S fluid and the reservoir showering the turbo in it, brakes are awesome though. They'll pull you down from speed quickly but the back might need a big of attention as the balance is a little off with EBC in the back    Another point to mention is I swapped the worn Tomei 2-Way diff for an S15 torsen unit, I kept the ring and pinion from the old set up to keep the 4.3 final drive ratio. The grip this generates now is mad but don't worry it still leaves all the corners sideways Got some other updates coming which have been a verryyyyy long time coming |
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May 21, 2020 19:40:50 GMT
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Let's catch this up to date as I'm about four months behind. Before getting the paint work I toyed with the idea of putting a GTR spoiler on the back   In the end I decided not to go with is as it didn't look quite right without the rear spats / wide arches Also lost more center caps, they seem to pop off as soon as they get hot, lost three in about 2 weeks. I even replicated the original badges in case I wanted to replace once painted but also decided to keep a clean look  Originally I was going to paint it myself but after a few attempts I didn't have the ability to finish it to my standard and passed it over to a professional and it was worth the wait.    I did a few more track outings, chassis balance is well sorted, despite desperately needing an alignment  Had a few outings through the gravel but what can you do Over winter I started to tackle some of the small problems on the car that niggled me, like the messy wiring that was a fast job from a few years ago  I went back through and crimped/soldered/heat shrunk everything properly and it's now much tidier and less of a fire risk. Now on to the other annoying jobs! |
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May 24, 2020 18:33:54 GMT
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Recently the more I've been driving the 32, the louder the box has been whining, not so much of a problem with straight pipes but with my quiet track set up something isn't quite right. I've pulled and split the box expecting to find some shagged bearings or missing teeth but everything seems relatively well bar the reverse and reverse idler gear.     Allegedly the bearings on both ends of the main shaft have been changed before for an upgraded type so unlikely for these to be the problem. I have the gearset at a specialists at the moment to pull it apart and check all areas for damage. I know most of you will ask why I haven't just upgraded to an RB25 box; I plan to but wanted to get this fixed for the time being to avoid rushing later down the line. I also had to chase all the threads on the box and bolts as whoever assembled it before had destroyed threads all over the place. I've also stripped the RB25DE which was originally in the car for the future.........   (Don't worry, I'm not missing 2 pistons/rods) I also treated myself to one of the last new original BNR32 Nismo speed meters  Now onto another annoying problem. Whilst the gearbox was out, I pulled the clutch for an "inspection" and wish I hadn't.   Does anyone know if these ORC clutches can be resurfaced or is it destined for the recycling? |
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May 24, 2020 18:36:24 GMT
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Update time. I got the gearbox back from the specialist and he found the cause of the whining  One cracked outer race and two other bearings a little rough, interestingly the other bearings in the box have been replaced previous so I think this box had some problems in Japan as well. Got it back together ready to go back in   Whilst putting it back together I couldn't ignore the prop carrier bearing any more    I put it all back together and all worked well, still some gear whine but much better than before. I had some fanboy plates made up  I've been driving hard for the past 5 months and getting the set up dialed in  Unfortunately I broke another thing........ |
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May 24, 2020 18:38:36 GMT
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So I broke another thing It's slowly been getting worse and worse and ended up sounding like a jet engine spooling down.   On inspection the shaft has in out play and is no good for use. Due to the turbo failure and the fact the engine has been down on compression on two cylinders for a few years I decided the best course of action was to do this build how it should have been done to begin with. I've been doing little jobs now and then, mainly painting bits and pieces   I started stripping the front end ready to pull the driveline  Some good news is that the timing gears never slipped from where set originally!  It's not going to be a fast build but it will be done properly and it will be good! |
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May 24, 2020 18:40:49 GMT
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May 26, 2020 11:26:22 GMT
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So a bit of a change in plans, I'm going to build the RB20 back up as a temporary stepping stone but will be a learning process for me as I've never built a motor before. Having pulled the 20 apart I found some detonation damage on pistons 1 and 6:    Because the damage has gone under the CROWN of the piston I didn't want it to cause issues with the ring seating and sealing so I set off after some more pistons. Cue RB20 #3   Unfortunately unknown to me, this motor might have had a bit of a hard life based on the water pump  Unfortunately the pistons in this one were even worse than mine with 4/6 being damaged with detonation but 2 were just about good enough to be used again  What's interesting was the marking on top of the pistons, one number is for piston dimension tolerance, another number is for wrist pin dimensional tolerance, the "59S" is the part number which leaves another number unexplained. It's not mentioned in the service manual. RB20#1 -- No marking RB20#2 -- All pistons marked CE4 RB20#3 -- 4xTH4 1xQB4 1xTG4 Hmmm two RB20's would make a great 4.0 V12, shame there's no block/crank for it  |
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. So keeping it at 18PSI on the actuator should keep a bit of longevity in the turbo. 
