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Sept 11, 2023 19:36:58 GMT
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couldn't get a mot for the ka til next week so in the meantime I spent some time on the mx5, firstly changed the oil and filters that all went easily enough. next up was taking a look at the AC, with the undertray off and a bit of LPG in the system it was obvious the leak is from a pipe down beside the radiator, luckily that section of pipe can be removed. so I cleaned it up and had a go with the lumiweld  put it back in evacuated it and all seemed well, holding the vacuum for 1/2 hour, went the full redneck and tried putting some LPG in it. LPG works well as a refridgerent and isn't damaging to the environment but obviously you don't want it leaking in a confined space. Really you should use R290 which is refridgerent grade LPG, as a compromise I usually use the stuff meant for high altitude camping but all I had was the Bottle from the BBQ and as this has had a hole in it for ages I figured it wasn't spotless in there anyway.  It took the gas, compressor kicked in pressures were about right and cool air was being generated, but it then started leaking at the same place again. I've tried redoing the repair (forgot to rub the stick the first time) and I'll have another go but at least I know aside from the leak everything else seems to work. Mind you the condenser while not leaking is falling appart and new ones are not available so at some point I'll have re-do all the front end pipes including the dodgy one anyway. finally I had a go at the bonnet with 2000 grit, took most of the orange peel off but the old G3 I have didn't seem to touch the 2 pack I'll have to find something meant for 2 pack. |
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2023 20:42:15 GMT by kevins
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Sept 15, 2023 16:15:03 GMT
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The 3m cutting compound arrived today, so I gave the mazda bonnet a quick going over.  That was just going over it with the 1/4 sheet of 2000 wet and dry then the cutting compound, I've ordered some more wet and dry and perhaps one day I'll go over it again and it could be really nice. It's far from perfect but is also better than the rest of the car so I'm happy. |
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Sept 15, 2023 22:26:55 GMT
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I also re-soldered the AC pipe and filled it, no evident hissing but after 5 or 6 hours most of the gas had leaked out. I think I'll change the condensor which is falling to pieces the repaired and damaged bits of pipe and the O rings first then see if it leaks. With that in mind I've ordered a replacement for one of the original pipes which is crushed, a couple of fittings to check I can connect to the old pipework and some adaptors which should allow me to use the brand new Ka condensor I have spare.
Also noticed a drip of coolant coming out the timing cover, It's been leaking for a while looking at the stain in the undertray, it needs a timing belt anyway so that will be a job for the winter, not sure whether to go for something like a gates pump and belt or splash out on Mazda parts, anyone any experience of the Gates parts?
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Last Edit: Sept 16, 2023 8:51:52 GMT by kevins
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Sept 19, 2023 19:43:31 GMT
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most of the AC parts for the mazda have turned up, only problem is the hose to replace the crushed hose is the wrong one, despite the picture clearly showing the later R134A part and stating it was for a 96 car they sent the earlier R12 part you'd have thought one of the largest MX5 parts suppliers would know what they are doing.
Doesen't really matter though, we are on holiday next week and the boss wants to take the Range Rover so any time I get this weekend will be giving that quick clean up check over and fluid top up.
Oh and the street ka mot is tomorrow hopefully that will pass.
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Sept 20, 2023 12:50:18 GMT
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street ka passed with 5 advisries,
3 slightly buckled wheels, no great suprise, the wheels on these are made of cheese, no vibrations so they are fine as they are. I the 5 years she has had the car we have probably spent more on wheels and tyres than the car cost.
one of the 6 leds in the central stop light is out, might fix it one day but no great issue at the moment.
slight play in inboard joint on one tie rod, found a place with nos unipart parts for £9.00 so I've ordered one and will fit that at some point.
overall happy with that and a pretty fair assessment.
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Sept 21, 2023 17:03:45 GMT
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Andrew bought the minor home for a wash today, and also managed to break the 1/4 light latch off.  It's amazing its lasted 54 years with 2 edge welds. fortunately we replaced the fastners with stainless so it cam off easily, pulled the glass out, welded it back on  a dab of zinc paint and all done.  Also changed the oil on the Range Rover, and gave it a look over, the oil leak (not enough to drip) I thought was from the front oil seal is somewhere high at the front and running down the right of the enhine, my guess would be the front valley gasket seal, but it's not that bad so can wait, otherwise it all seems fine, might even give it a wash and hoover tomorrow. |
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Sept 26, 2023 20:43:37 GMT
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Been a busy day for the old cars Andrew took the minor and trailer down to Kent to pick up a Anvil, apparantly it coped perfectly.
At the same time we came up to Norfolk in the Range Rover, I managed to fill it up with LPG close to home, came on the minor roads at 40 - 50mph and a quick stint at 70 something on the A47, rather suprisingly it did close to 20mpg! Only issue is the footwells get a bit hot on a hot day so some better insulation is in order, It's fine with the AC on but on a longer journey, as the icy water trickled on my wifes foot, I remembered the drain tube needs repairing! (spigot has broken off the typicaly poor 80's leyland moulding).
Oh and changing the oil hasn't stopped the oil presure light flickering at idle in drive which equates to 600rpm, lift it to the unloaded speed of 800rpm and it's fine, I think it's the switch it never did it on the original which I broke,but does on 2 aftermarket ones I think given these engines have a history of this that the oem switch was a lower pressure than the aftermarket ones.
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Did 400 miles in the Range Rover with no issues over the last week, only thing we did notice is a fuel smell, one of the injector hoses is weeping, I've been meaning to change them for modern hose for ages, this isn't a hose issue though it due to a previous owner using a oversize hose clamp rather than a proper fuel hose clamp, the hose clamp is aldo bottomed out. I bought the parts a couple of years ago (hoses, clips, inj filters and seals) just need to find them now!
I also want to flow check the injectors while I'm at it so will need to dig out the rig.
The correct ac pipe for the maxda also turned up, looks like a busy autumn.
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Spotted a complete fuel rail and injectors on ebay for £30 so I bought it, I'll clean up and flow the injectors, all being well I can then just swap the whole assy over.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Always like the prep new /spare bits off the car ready as a plan.
Hope it works!
James
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yes Same here, I'm also have a suspcion the ones in the car have issues, it was very uneven at idle on petrol (but silky smooth on lpg), multiple doses of injector cleaner have got it much better but it has to be set a bit rich of ideal to idle smoothly.
When I got it it had recently had a new fuel tank and pump, but the injectors clearly hadn't been touched in years, you only usually change a tank when its rusty and I suspect some of that has got through the filter (which slso looks ancient) to them.
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I need to fix the fuel system on the range rover, the mazda waterpump drips a bit and one of the morris dampers leaks so I decided to ignore all of hhat and do something that doesen't need doing at all, making a start on fitting twin carbs to the morris. I know many will say a single large carb works just as well and is less trouble to set up but twin su's look so right on a car of this period so we have these.  we have the parts to re-build them, a set of matching spacers, heatsheild return springs etc but we haven't sorted out an air cleaner. We want something deep enough to fit a reasonable length of trumpet in which looks right for the period and takes a readily available element. So we picked up a pair of MGB housings which seemed to fit the bill. The MGB ones are to big to fit directly on the A series carb spacing, so I decided to cut them and join them into a single cleaner. firstly drew it out on a piece of board, then cut and welded the backplates.   next up set to the housings, cut the sides out and welded them together.   All fits together nicely, next step will be to clean it up and paint it all. Then I need to machine up a pair of alloy spacers to fit them to the carbs, the intent here is to have a recess we can fit 3D printed trumpets into so we can experiment with different lengths. |
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did a few odd jobs today. Cleaned up the new AC pipes for the mazda.  they look fine, no corrossion or wear, also cleaned the mounting bracket in citric acid then neutralised with bicarb.  Then had a look at a couple of issues on the mazda, some cracks appearing on the rear arch.  pulled the boot trim back.  fortunately no rust but rubbing my finger along the area inside it's clearly not flat, looks like some minor damage has been filled over the paint and is now falling out, will strip it all out an do it properly at some point. while I was in there I found a hole too.  no idea how long it's been like that but might explain why the boot seems damp sometimes, found a grommet and fitted it with some sealer.  Also went over the underside of the boot lid where the seal touches which has been in red epoxy for about 5 years after I sorted some surface rust.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 8, 2023 21:29:49 GMT by kevins
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Oct 10, 2023 21:17:52 GMT
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The range rover fuel rail and injectors turned up, stripped it down and ran the injectors up on the rig, I've managed to get 6 to work but 2 seem well and truly stuck.  After a back flushing and a few runs through with a 50 50 mixture of white spirit and injector cleaner the spray pattern was looking pretty good.  I've left the other 2 soaking in fluid, if that doesn't free them up I might try some citric acid as they had rust in them (kill or cure time!). Also checked the presssure regulator which seems fine too, I've left them all full of cleaner, I'll give them another go then measure the full load flow, hopefully out of these and the 8 in the car I can get a good matching set of 8. all in all 6 what look like good injectors and a presssure regulator is pretty good value for £30 when reconditioned injectors are £70 each. |
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Last Edit: Oct 10, 2023 21:23:18 GMT by kevins
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Oct 15, 2023 17:45:12 GMT
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break from fiddling with cars this week, down in Dorset just north of Weymouth gor a week in the mazda, looking abit grubby after fridays drive down here in the rain.  putting the spare in a bag on the bootlid even gives a vaguely usable boot. Might be a bit of a squeeze on the way home we have already bought plants and china bowls! |
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Oct 19, 2023 16:13:45 GMT
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still driving around Dorset, yesterday went to the tank museum and on the way back it poured and highlighted a couple of issues, it leaks around the corner where the A pillar door and roof meets, mostly on the drivers side but a little on the passengers, I think I will splash out on a new set of seals for the header and doors as they are all getting a bit tired, probably come to £400 but we plan to keep it and they are only going to get worse, so it's getting bit of a list, door seals, fix aircon, cam belt/ waterpump, new front wings and new seat covers. I can imagine I will end up painting most of it at some time too, there are numerous small blemishes all over it. I might end up spending a couple of grand of my redundancy pay off on it all told, but in the big picture that's only a couple of months depreciaton on a new EV. First thing it desperatly needs is a wash though, it's cot a tide mark behind the rear wheels.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2023 16:15:35 GMT by kevins
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Oct 20, 2023 11:42:43 GMT
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The seals on these have quite a complicated arrangement for drainage. There's a little hole right on the corner of the screen that often gets bunged up with dirt and causes it to leak.
Basically there's a channel that directs water from the top, through the little hole and then down a channel along the length of the a-pillar and out the door shut. If the hole gets bunged up then the first little channel spills over into the car if the seals aren't pressed firm. You can also pack the seals out a little bit with some thin foam tape to press them into the door a bit better.
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Oct 20, 2023 15:18:49 GMT
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I will have a closer look at that area to see if at least I can affect a temporary improvement but the seal is cracking across the header so realy is on it's last legs, as the mazda drives better than many modern cars I keep forgeting it is 27 years old, The TR was a rusty wreck when we bought it at 14 years old and had to replace all the seals and most of the trim as part of the restoration. (as well as a lot of bodywork).
We've escaped the extortionate car parks and moutainous speed humps of Dorset and moved along the coast to the new forest now, When I get home on sunday I will stick the dehumidifier in it for a few days to dry it out.
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Oct 22, 2023 22:01:03 GMT
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Got back yesterday, driving around the M25 in torrential rain was no fun (doesen't seem to leak when being driven), the worst driving was from HGV drivers a couple of them seemed to have a death wish!
Car performed briliantly now needs a good wash and some drying out, hopefully I can wash it and get the dehumidifier in it tomorrow.
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Oct 23, 2023 13:40:27 GMT
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washed it today before:  after: 8  also found there is some rust begining in the rear arch where the coating has been worn away, mostly surface rust but there is a dodgy looking double skinned bit I might have cut out to see what is going on behind. |
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Last Edit: Oct 23, 2023 20:49:32 GMT by kevins
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