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Nov 10, 2015 21:19:19 GMT
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After lurking for some time I thought I would start a thread on my current project.
It is a 87 range rover classic, mechanics and trim are pretty good, the main issue being rust in the usual places and paint lifting.
The focus is to get it into a state where it will pass the Mot in January when the current one runs out. It had already had the rear X member and boot floor replaced so the main areas needing attention are :
both rear inner arches (seat belt mounts).
front of sill / body mount / floor.
I am doing it properly and cutting all the rust out, since getting it at the end of September I have so far replaced, both rear inner arches, outer arches and the base of the C pillars, right hand front floor / kick panel and at the moment I am replacing the rh sill / body mount.
After the welding is done I plan to paint it next summer.
only problem at the moment is i don't seem to be able to add pictures.
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2020 19:11:42 GMT by kevins
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Nov 10, 2015 21:25:47 GMT
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What motor is it?
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Nov 10, 2015 21:29:22 GMT
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3.5 v8 on the flapper efi with a 4 speed auto box , also fitted with single point lpg.
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Nov 10, 2015 21:36:39 GMT
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I also have a few other toys, In reasonable condition and still on the road after 20 years of ownership I have a 73 lotus elan plus 2 dhc and a TR7 v8, my wife has a late mk1 mx5, and my son has 69 2 door minor which we are also restoring on a longer term basis.
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Nov 10, 2015 21:37:38 GMT
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EFi from the grunged era!
Are you doing a straight original resto, or insulting it with a TDI lump?
These things are starting to be worth some money now!
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Nov 10, 2015 21:49:26 GMT
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it will be keeping the v8. It is a vogue but pretty low spec, no sunroof, manual seat adjust, cloth seats etc. It has also had the a/c system removed.
The plan is to keep it pretty standard, it will be painted the earlier non metalic lincoln green and probably lose the cracked and split front spoiler. At the moment I don't intend to re fit the a/c and may try a white or limestone roof to keep it cooler. If we did decide to fit A/C it would probably be a modern system based on a modern rwd vehicle such as a beemer or transit.
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2015 22:51:25 GMT by kevins
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Nov 10, 2015 22:33:49 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2015 22:46:58 GMT by kevins
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Nov 11, 2015 20:28:17 GMT
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Here are the other toys.    The tr was built from a tr7 by myself many years ago, the lotus is standard appart from a type 9 gearbox and the mx5 is bog standard, when they need work I will raise threads. |
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Nov 11, 2015 21:16:55 GMT
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here are the pictures of where I am now on the drivers side front corner. the repaired footwell.  The repairs to the inner arch.  The sill area with all the rust cut out.  Plan to get all the inner sill Repairs done friday evening, then hopefully the outer over the weekend. |
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2015 21:21:46 GMT by kevins
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Nov 14, 2015 20:52:47 GMT
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Spent some time on the rr yesterday, the new front end of the inner sill and body mount made from 4mm steel and seam welded together, should last better than the original.  Now welded in  I also folded up a new outer sill which hopefully I will get fitted tomorrow.  . |
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2015 20:55:00 GMT by kevins
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Nov 16, 2015 21:47:38 GMT
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Didn't get as much done as I would have liked at the weekend, ended up shopping and decorating, but sill is trimmed to size, all the surfaces primed with weld through the bottom punched and it is now clamped in position ready to weld, may be a while though as I have to lay a new floor in the room we are decorating first!
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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Nov 16, 2015 22:22:11 GMT
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Didn't get as much done as I would have liked at the weekend, ended up shopping and decorating, but sill is trimmed to size, all the surfaces primed with weld through the bottom punched and it is now clamped in position ready to weld, may be a while though as I have to lay a new floor in the room we are decorating first! Sounds like excellent progress given the domestic unfairness!  Lovely collection by the way - welcome Cheers Matt |
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Nov 21, 2015 19:36:12 GMT
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BSpent the afternoon on the rr, firstly lit this to get some warmth for the first time this year and got through 2 bags of wood.  Then finished the welding  And painted it all in epoxy.  Then moved onto the cracks around the top door hinge, welded up cracks.  Added a reinforcing plate.  Primed the painted in lincoln green which is the colour I eventually plan to paint the car.  Just need to seal the seams and underseal it now. |
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Last Edit: Nov 21, 2015 19:39:00 GMT by kevins
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Nov 25, 2015 20:39:21 GMT
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Been a poor week as far as the cars are concerned.
The RR is progressing, just needs me to fit thed door and sap some waxoil around.
On Monday I took the mx5 to work, this year being the first time we have used it in the wet, it is lethal, even when driving carefully the rear slides all over the place, it is far worse than the TR or Lotus, when we bought it the dealer fitted 2 new rear tyres, turns out they are Chinese made sunteks which seem have an appauling reputation and a e rating for wet grip, a pair of A rated goodyears are on the way.
Tuesday I took the tr, about half way I began to smell hot plastic, then at the first roundabout I notced the engine was idling at 1500rpm, as I got closer to work the wipers packed up then the indicators, but it did make it. On inspection the choke cable had melted, it turned out the terminal on the choke warning switch had come loose and rotated allowing the live wire to touch the cable which had acted like a large resistor, melting and holding the choke on, then eventually the fuse had gone stopping the wipers and indicators. In the end it was not to bad to fix, ditch the choke warning switch, replace the fuse and loosen the cable at the carb, as I Start and run it on lpg it rarely used so no hurry to fit a new cable.
Then today I took the lotus, got to work fine then on the way home got stuck in loads of traffic due to the A12 closure, it kept it's cool fine but again slowly electrical things begun to stop working or getting very slow, the engine ran fine though and I got home ok to find the battery completely flat, so I need to dig out one of my spare alternators, it's doesen't seem to be charging at all.
so now to plan d - borrow a van from work!
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Last Edit: Nov 25, 2015 21:20:03 GMT by kevins
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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Nov 25, 2015 20:42:55 GMT
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Meanwhile time to get drifting?!!! Cheers Matt |
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Nov 25, 2015 21:24:20 GMT
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I love sliding a car around but this totally unpredictable, the only other car I have driven like this was the lotus when I bought it on 25 year old dunlop sps, a set of yoko's transformed it.
If anyone wants a pair of almost new suntek ditchfinders when I have removed them they are welcome to take them away!
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Last Edit: Nov 25, 2015 21:25:11 GMT by kevins
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Nov 29, 2015 22:41:25 GMT
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The range rover is now more or less back together, door fitted and adjusted (to. Get an even 10 mm door gap around both doors!!! ) the fit on these is awfull.
Still to do is take a look at the latch (only opens on the last mm or so of travel and get the central locking working (clicks but seems too stiff to move) before I fit the door trim, I also really need to find a replacement door pull /armrest, then it will be do it vall again on the otherside.
One thing I did find was the remote for the laserline alarm which also operates the central locking, Who knows I may even be able to get this working.
Lotus is on the ramp ready to fit the replacement alernator one evening this week and mx5 is getting new tyres on thursday.
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New tyres are now on the MX5, seems much better, it can still be provoked to slide but now in a predictable way.
I have also been using the range rover for the last few days, generally it drives very well but there are a couple of issues,
On petrol the Idle speed is much lower than LPG, it seems to be running rich even with the mixture screw on the vane air meter right in (gets worse as you screw itout), a bit of reading around seems to indicate this is a common problem as the spring relaxes and fixed by removing the lid and adding a bit more tension to the spring so unless anyone has any better ideas that will be the next thing to try.
The other thing is even on LPG the idle is a bit variable (not hunting but sometimes 800rpm other times 600rpm), I have sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold with no effect on rpm so I don't think there are any leaks, the plan is to go through it checking the ignition timing throttle plate setting and breather system (may even blank this off and take it to a catch tank then dirty side of air cleaner).
Lotus alternator is also ready to go on tonight.
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
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On petrol the Idle speed is much lower than LPG, it seems to be running rich even with the mixture screw on the vane air meter right in (gets worse as you screw itout), a bit of reading around seems to indicate this is a common problem as the spring relaxes and fixed by removing the lid and adding a bit more tension to the spring so unless anyone has any better ideas that will be the next thing to try. The other thing is even on LPG the idle is a bit variable (not hunting but sometimes 800rpm other times 600rpm), I have sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold with no effect on rpm so I don't think there are any leaks, the plan is to go through it checking the ignition timing throttle plate setting and breather system (may even blank this off and take it to a catch tank then dirty side of air cleaner). Have you drained and serviced the vapouriser yet? Over time a gooey residue collects inside the vapouriser (heavy ends) and needs to be drained. The vapouriser also has a diaphragm inside that can harden or split with age. Most popular vapourisers have service kits available at low cost. The vapouriser may also have an internal filter that needs replacing. One golden rule with LPG installs is that you must get the vehicle running properly on petrol before attempting to get the LPG system right. Another golden rule is that the ignition system must be in perfect condition. The Rover V8 is very particular about the quality of rotor arm and distrinutor cap used. Where possible only use genuine parts. Don't bother wasting money on Magnecore plug leads, they are not any better than good condition standard leads. As for timing, the key to getting it right to run on LPG is to advance it as far as possible when on petrol - almost to the onset of pinking. Either that or install a switchable advance box (don't buy the RPi one as it is rediculously expensive for what it is). |
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Ive fitted a new vapourizer, the original had a split diaphragm and as you say was full of what looked like thick oil.
Appart from the variability in idle speed it runs very well, no misfires, stumbles or backfires. Most of the ignition is new.
I do wonder if the mixer being bolted directly to the air meter is a good idea, with the flap shut it completley obscures the vaporizer, I have a blos mixer in my spares so I will fit that sometime.
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