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Jan 18, 2016 10:07:55 GMT
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The gearbox cooler pipes on my 110 have done similar to me in the past (actually split and emptied several litres of fluid out) and we're repaired with some fuel hose I had handy.
It's in the plan to replace them a set from a later vehicle at some point, but as it's currently still running fine, it's not likely to happen for a while yet.
The later pipework is much larger bore (about half inch I think) and uses standard hydraulic fittings at either end.
You need the later oil cooler and adapter fittings for the gearbox end too.
Not 100% sure, but a Tdi Auto disco cooler will fit in and should pipe up with the V8 pipework, and is a bigger capacity than the bog brush type that your car will have currently.
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
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Jan 18, 2016 10:19:10 GMT
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It's not the suitability regarding liquid type but the pressure the pipe has to handle that will more likely be the issue. On a good transmission with a properly working pump it could be as high as 50psi when cold. When I needed some I got a local hydraulic repair company to make them for me, correct pipe material with correct fittings properly made. I think they cost me a tenner each.
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2016 10:25:10 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jan 18, 2016 11:25:58 GMT
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The original design is that they are hose clamped on one end (to the apply described bog brush cooler), So hose clamps should work (assuming the original design was capable).
Looking into it further most fuel line is also rated for oil but the difference is the trans cooler stuff is rated for higher temperatures (up to 175 Celsius) where the best fuel stuff I can find is 125 Celsius.
The other option is hydraulic hose but this is stiffer so I am not sure it will be flexible enough and could cause the steel pipes to fatigue.
Good to see fuel hose has worked though so that may get me out of a hole if required.
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Jan 18, 2016 16:08:22 GMT
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About 9000 miles with it holding things together so far, including a good few hundred miles dragging a fully loaded 18ft cage sided Ifor Williams, which was certainly more than 3 tonnes.
It has been worked hard.
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Jan 23, 2016 18:51:11 GMT
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After spending the last 4 months doing pretty much nothing except welding the rangie I decided I need to catch up on the others, the tr has an exhasut blow at the downpipe to manifold, cluch slave which leaks, leaking rocker cover gaskets and needs the 2 new front tyres in the greenhouse fitting. The Lotus pop up headlamps need fixing (replace failed tr7 motor with mx5 one).
But firstly the mx5 my wifes daily needed a couple of bits, it had started making a squarking noise which I had identified as the alternator ribbed belt by dribbling water on it, a bit of fiddle to change as the pas belt and air duct have to come off first, but it all came appart easily enough, looks like something had got trapped in the belt as some chunks were missing from the ribs, new belt fitted and all was fine. While fiddling around I did notice it has a bit of an oil leak at the rear on the exhaust side, I have already changed the cam sensor o ring so either that did not work or something else is leaking, not to much of an issue at the moment though.
Secondly I have been told it needs cup holders, (she likeS to take cup of tea to drink when she gets to work) so I made a plate which goes under the centre console bolts to two gearstick gaiter bolts and then has a couple of ebay folding cup holders fixed to it in the passenger footwell.
on the rangie front I have used it every day for 2 weeks now, appart from it's thirst on lpg (10 mpg), which needs sorting out,it has been great, the atf on the trans cooler pipes is not coming from the pipes though, it is the pas pump above leaking, a pretty common and che ap fix but for now I will just keep topping it up (it's not loosing much)
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2016 18:52:16 GMT by kevins
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
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Jan 23, 2016 21:16:11 GMT
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on the rangie front I have used it every day for 2 weeks now, appart from it's thirst on lpg (10 mpg), which needs sorting out,it has been great, Sounds about right. For a local commute, my 92 used to do 9 mpg LPG and my 87 did 11 mpg on LPG. If I was lucky on a run I could push both up to about 15 mpg. Towing it could drop even further. |
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jan 23, 2016 22:45:09 GMT
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On the same journey on petrol it is doing around 16 -17mpg so it should be really doing 13 - 14 on lpg, I am thinking about fitting the the blos I have lying around, advancing the timing by 5 degrees and possibly replacing the vaporizer with a r90e 2 stage one. Here are a couple of pictures of the cup holder om the mx5 need to buy a second one to fit in the forward position but otherwise done.   buy a second |
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2016 22:48:47 GMT by kevins
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
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Jan 24, 2016 13:54:04 GMT
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On the same journey on petrol it is doing around 16 -17mpg so it should be really doing 13 - 14 on lpg, I am thinking about fitting the the blos I have lying around, advancing the timing by 5 degrees and possibly replacing the vaporizer with a r90e 2 stage one. Here are a couple of pictures of the cup holder om the mx5 need to buy a second one to fit in the forward position but otherwise done. buy a second Wow, you are getting figures that most owners can only dream about!! I have a lot of friends with V8 Range Rovers and Discoverys and none of us get anything like that, maybe we drive them a bit harder than you!! That cup holder looks very similar to the ones in the back of my Espace. |
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jan 24, 2016 17:44:16 GMT
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I do drive it pretty sedately I have the TR, Lotus and mx5 for hooning around in!
My journey to work is pretty good for fuel, 15 fairly level miles and mostly a B road doing 40 to 50 mph which is locked torque convertor in top gear.
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Jan 28, 2016 21:32:47 GMT
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The rangie is still working fine, even got 13 mpg out of the latest tank of lpg, so I started looking at some of the electrical gremlins, first I started with the rear wiper. It kept stalling didn't park in the right place and wouldn't switch off once turned on. Turned out pretty easy to remove especially as someone had been there before and both the mounting bolts were missing. Taking it appart revealed the reason for stalling, the shaft was seized, stragely it was not corroded, it seemed the top plastic bush had swollen to be a very tight fit,so I reamed it out to a smooth fit. Next I turned to the parking issue, it appeared the ramp on the CROWNwheel was 180 degrees out but it was a nylon wheel fitted to steel shaft and seemed original, fortunately it was possible with heat to lever it out of its locating pins and rotate it to the correct position, all I can think is someone had fitted a part from another car. That left the continuous running, with it running and the cover off I noticed it stopped, then with load off the motor shaft and pinion gear moves and it all starts again, fortunately the backlash is adjustable so with the backlash removed it all seems to work ok. I will fit it tomorrow and hopefully one thing will be knocked off the list.  Next up is the central locking, I know what is wrong, someone has removed the original motor with switches from the drivers door and replaced it with a slave solenoid using the now defunct alarm to actuate it, I have bought a cheap locking remote kit from ebay and plan to fit it to replace the alarm. |
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2016 21:34:36 GMT by kevins
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Jan 29, 2016 15:36:34 GMT
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Fitted wiper motor at lunchtime, works fine now, also too a look at why the rear heated window does not work, looks easy one wire has fatigued off but there is still plenty of copper tab left to solder it to, might even be able to get his working as well.
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Jan 30, 2016 17:54:19 GMT
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wired the £7 central locking control into the RR today it works surprisingly well, all 4 doors open fine but both fronts don't lock, it is trying but I think the mechanism is too stiff (also is with the key or button inside) looks like the latch needs stripping cleaning and lubricating probably gummed up with 30 year old hard grease. I also want to put up the photos of restoring the minor , I don't really want to cut and paste 100 photo bucket links in though but the drag and drop does not seem to work, any tips ? it says it's uploading them but they never appear. ![]() |
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Last Edit: Jan 30, 2016 18:04:00 GMT by kevins
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Jan 30, 2016 18:19:44 GMT
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Seemed to have managed to load the photos with the BBCODE tab open, these are photos of how we bought it and the body restoration, the car is my sons, we bought is 3 years ago when he was 11 so have another 3 years to finish it in. We have been doing it on a budget so the only panels we bought were the rear front spring hangers and outer sill, everything else being hand made. It seems to have put the photos in a it out of order but I am sure you can work it out, I'll load a few more of it as it is now later. After we bought it we found out it was one of 3 vehicle owned and liveried by Bristol busses, this seeming to be the only survivor corgi even made a model of this very car. Plans are to keep it pretty standard with the mods being safety focused, so it will get dual circuit disc brakes, 5 speed mx5 gearbox, ka seats and some improved wiring (more fuses and relays, alternator).                                                                                                    |
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Jan 30, 2016 18:27:19 GMT
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Jan 31, 2016 15:37:00 GMT
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Wife was out today so I have all day to play, started on the range rover, I fitted the new plenum to air meter hose complete with the home made blow off valve to protect the air meter in the event of a backfire.  basically a bit of tube flared and a tight fit from the inside with some pu to seal, a central stud welded in and a washer and closed cell foam seal held in place with a spring. then removed some dodgy wiring which looks like it was there for spot lights, the live wires were just floating around in the radiator area and it was spliced in with one of those blue snap fit things.  then started on the TR,  water leak turned out to be a hose needing nipping up (onto adapter I turned up for the fan switch)  next the exhaust leak, seal between manifold and down pipe was leaking  cleaned up and re-fitted with new seals. The oil leak was the breather loose in the rocker cover, then i pulled the clutch slave, with a bit of wet and dry the bore looks like new so just needs a seal kit.  Finaly removed the front wheels ready to paint them then fit the 2 new tyres I have. |
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I have been thinking about how I can get the to run better on petrol, there are a couple of issues, firstly it is too weak at idle secondly you have to crank it over quite a while to star. With these old flapper systems every pundit tells you either the pcm is knackered or to rip the top off the air Meter and start fiddling around, anyway I thought ibwould check all the basics first, just by luck I started with the easiest one check the fuel pressure, put a gauge on the cold start injector pipe which was disconnected anyway and bingo, 22psi at idle, 30 at full throttle, should be 29 and 36 psi, also the instant you key off the fuel pressure disappeared.
I also tried it at idle with the vacuum pipe removed and plugged at the manifold so it had the correct 30 psi or there abouts, suprise suprise the idle co can now be adjusted correctly.
The good thing the fuel pressure does not drop off at higher engine demand so the pump seems fine, I don't think the injectors are leaking because the plugs all seem dry so I am assuming that it definitely needs a new pressure regulator and possibly the non return valve in the pump has failed. New oem regulators seem to be best part of 100 notes, Looking around there seem to be loads adjustable pressure regulators on ebay for around £20, anyone any experience of these?
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Not had much time to spend on the cars this weekend but did get a couple of hours friday evening, firstly I re fitted the slave cyl. to the TR which was very straightforward and as usual it simply gravity bled. I have also painted the front wheels ready to get new tyres fitted, it looks black in the photo but is actually a dark metallic grey.  Next up for the first time in a long time I had a fiddle with the minor, at the moment I am putting the drivers door together, the frame was bolted in and a socket dropped in one of the double skin parts, after 20mins I managed to retrieve it, then realised I can't find the internal door release, the quaerterlight latch is broken and I don't have the eye part of the catch on the b pillar. I then pulled the defunct tr7 headlamp motor out of the lotus ready to modify it to take an mk5 one which does not look too difficult. Plan tomorrow is to weld an extra lug on the bracket for the motor make a new operating arm with one end of the existing one and the other from the mx5 then try to swap a quarterlight handle over which will involve having to replace the drilled out rivet with weld. |
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Feb 11, 2016 20:53:08 GMT
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Managed to get sometime on the cars tonight, firstly I took the passenger door trim off the Range rover and oiled all the door lock mechs, now the remote central locking works on all 4 doors. Next up is the new fuel pressure regulator, I purchased a cheapo adjustable one off of ebay for £14.  all of you who like to dress up you engine compartment look away now because i wanted it to look more stock, hence this  painted with black stone chip, also made a bracket for it  Next up was to mount the MX5 headlamp motor on the bracket I had originally made for a TR7 one to fit in the Lotus, this involved welding a tab on with the TIG and welding the old end to the MX5 centre on the operating arm.  Then finally fitting the re-painted front wheels to the TR7, just need to do the rears to match now.  |
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Feb 14, 2016 20:30:34 GMT
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Spent yesterday playing with the Range Rover, the new fuel pressure regulator is mounted but not plumbed in yet, I have removed and blanked off the headlamp washer hose (leaks and pump does not work), worked out what I need to fit the BLOS LPG mixer and then replaced the trans cooler rubber lines. Today we took it for the longest journey so far (around 130 miles) it ran well but on getting back there is ATF all over the front X member again, changing the hoses has made no difference whatsoever. The leak is on top of the front X member, the steel lines run across here, my thinking now is there must be a pin hole in the pipe possibly under the clip. Fortunately access is pretty good with the radiator grille off so next step will be to remove the clips clean it all up and place a sheet of paper under it to see where the leak is coming from.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:35:24 GMT
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Good news today, had a look at the trans cooler pipes and they are all dry, it appears the crossmember onto which the pipes are mounted is full of oil and it is weeping out of the drain holes, it's slowed down a lot now, and is not leaving a puddle anymore, so hopefully will dry out soon.
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