squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
|
|
|
|
|
Both of mine or on LPG (fitted myself). The 87 is a flapper and has the mixer bolted directly to the AFM and has never given any problems. The 92 is hot wire and has the mixer attached to the plenum chamber. This did suffer from variable idle speed but that was caused by the stepper motor fighting the LPG system. Once I had disabled that when running on gas everything worked fine.
If you can find one a good upgrade to the injection system is to fit an AFM from a 4.2 Jag. It is larger and allows a greater airflow.
|
| |
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for the tips, although registered in 88 mine is also an 87 build. I will check the basics and if I find nothing obvious temporarily blank the breather at the throttle body leaving the rocker cover to atmosphere at least I will then be able to rule in or out the breather. I have plenty of experience with modern injection systems and carbs but this era is new to me!
My tr7v8 is also on lpg and runs superbly with twin su's, in the long run this may be where the rr goes as parts for this generation of injection seem to be drying up(especialy if I can liberate the funds for a 4 barrel on the TR)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2015 19:18:46 GMT
|
|
Its been a while butb I have been busy, the lotus has a new alternator and all seems well again, the mx5 has new goodyear tyres and has been transformed, but most of the timed has been on the range rover.
The main area of work has been rust in the left hand side, to start with it did not look too bad, a couple of small holes and some old patches, but then it had a tap around...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2015 21:52:38 GMT
|
Here are some photos.   And then I started to cut the rust out, leaving the A pillar and sill for alignment which will be repaired. /replaced later.   So far I have welded a new kick panel and started on the A pillar, then I ran out of gas and I will need another 2 square metre sheet of steel to do the rest.  But I have made a new inner sill and front body mount to fit later.  I see another couple of weeks of welding on this lot! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2015 23:17:26 GMT
|
A bit of a case of 1 step forward and 2 back tonight, firstly I repaired the rear of the inner wing   I then started at the front, the upper parts of the inner wing were pretty good and i replaced the edge of the front panel. The lower area was rusty and cut out.  It was then I started cleaning up around the front body mount and found more rot which looks difficult to acces for a proper repair, something to think about.  |
| |
Last Edit: Dec 17, 2015 23:33:43 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2015 22:21:36 GMT
|
Some more progress, on closer inspection the rust in the body mount was very localised so I was able to cut out the 2 areas and butt weld in new metal, not particularly pretty but strong welds.  lo I then replaced the base of the headlamp support panel, again seam butt welded in and needs cleaning up.  I think I have turned the corner, now. All the rust has been cut out and I now just have to work backwards putting it all back together. Kevin |
| |
Last Edit: Dec 18, 2015 22:30:53 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2015 21:42:28 GMT
|
Been ill with the flu for the last few day, feel better today so some progress today on the RR. Inner wing finished, new top rail folded up on my homemade folder, it struggles on metal this thick so the folds are not briliant but it cant be seen so will do the job.  The A post is also done bar the part which goes over thged sill.  Floor is also replaced.  I have also cut the outer sill and front body mount off (in fact 2 of them, a cover over the original) so all that is left now is the sill and a few small patches and hopefully it will be capable of passing an MOT. |
| |
Last Edit: Dec 27, 2015 22:01:53 GMT by kevins
|
|
alex
Part of things
Posts: 382
|
|
|
|
|
Sometimes seems never ending once you get started! Mine has had so much welding...it'll be time for another round o it next year no doubt.
|
| |
1974 Rover P6 4.6V8. Land Rover Series 2A 2.25 "overland spec". RRC V8. Celica GT4 ST205 Garrett 3071R 366BHP.
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2015 10:44:12 GMT
|
|
I'm hoping by cutting out everthing which is vaguely rusty I may get a few years without the need for more on these areas, but as you say there are bound to be a few hidden areas I have missed, I know the rh wing mounting rail has also gone and there is likely to be more hiding behind the radiator grile but for the moment I am working on the basis that if I can't see it nor can the mot man!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2015 18:59:10 GMT
|
|
|
| |
Last Edit: Dec 30, 2015 19:24:12 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Emptied a couple of litres of chip over the range rover yesterday, so it is now ready to re-assemble, the body mount rubbers are back on, but I seem to have managed to lose half of one, hopefully it will turn up, then it is just the wing and door to re-fit.  Hopefully it should be ready to take for an mot next week. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
New ones are only about £1.50 each.
Long time since I've done similarly comprehensive repair work on a Range Rover, more recently it's been a bigger number of discoverys than I care to remember though...
Certainly the best way to attack the job though, cut it all out and start again.
I would also suggest that if you're considering dumping the flapper efi then modernising and going with the hot wire system to be the best move.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
At the moment appart from a variable idle speed which I think is a failed heating element in the extra air valve the efi seems to work fine, so I will stick with what I have ( previous owner spent a fortune getting it to work including re-man ecu), longer term I would probably go for the hotwire set up if it becomes too problematic as you say.
I like the idea of a aftermarket ecu like a megasquirt and ditching the airflow meter all together but as usual my plans are not entirely compatible with my wallet.
anyway, appart from re-fitting the door for which I need it outside in daylight it is all done, mot is booked next Wednesday and I have given it a quick look over, after fixing the number plate light everything which needs to work does, the front fogs are loose though so I will pull ahead the plan to remove the front spoiler the only other thing I can see is a bit of misting on a couple of the dampers but I think I will get away with it.
Meantime in the torrential rain I have been using the tr7v8 everyday, It has suprised me how capable it is in the bad weather, the heater is good enough that it does not mist up, it's stayed dry inside and unless provoked traction and handling have been fine.
|
| |
Last Edit: Jan 7, 2016 19:15:10 GMT by kevins
|
|
alecf
Part of things
Posts: 424 
|
|
|
|
|
used to run a 3.5v8 on a flapper efi system in my previous racer, then moved onto a 3.9v8 on hotwire which with the modifications done to it went to microsquirt.
In the 2 years I raced that engine on the flapper efi I had no issues with it. Theres a few good guides for fault finding the flapper setup on these which I used to keep in the race van for fault finding on these.
wedled a range rover bobtail for what seems like weeks back in 2008 and also done my fair share of welding on a couple of discoveries.
if you get stuck with the gas conversion try cargas in Stoke-on-Trent
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Worth mentioning that flappers aren't ideal for running single point LPG.
A backfire has reasonable potential for blowing the AFM apart, whilst the hotwire ones are a bit more resilient, mostly due to not having a flap that shuts the escape route off if it does go pop.
|
| |
|
|
squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
|
|
|
|
Worth mentioning that flappers aren't ideal for running single point LPG. A backfire has reasonable potential for blowing the AFM apart, whilst the hotwire ones are a bit more resilient, mostly due to not having a flap that shuts the escape route off if it does go pop. I have been running single point on a flapper since 1999 without problems. Just make sure its set up properly and kept in good order but add an arrestor flap just in case. |
| |
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
when I bought it it had a history of backfiring, and the hose between the plenum and AFM was held together with tape, seller even gave me the roll of tape! but at least this protected the AFM.
I have richened it up a bit which has stopped the backfiring but will not be best for the fuel consumption, hopefully the Blos will give a good compromise. I have a new silicone hose which is a push fit on the throttle body plan is to run this without a hose clamp so it blows off in the event of a backfire, I am not convinced by the one way flaps though, surely they just give an even bigger pressure spike in the manifold until something else goes my thought is to make a dump valve eventually to be safe.
|
| |
Last Edit: Jan 8, 2016 19:01:13 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2016 18:44:08 GMT
|
Range rover is all back together and I have pulled the cracked and split front spolier off which to my mind looks much better, I drove it to work today and it drove extremely well on both petrol and lpg. Off to mot tomorrow.  I have also found out what might be the variable idle problem, after worrying about all the high tech possibilities I have found the stop on the throttle linkage is cracked and very weak so the throttle is now stopping by the plate wedging in the bore, If the mot goes ok I will weld this up at the weekend.  The tr has also developed a leak from the clutch slave cyl, so if the rr passes I will do this and the leak from the manifold to downpipe it also has next. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2016 19:57:45 GMT
|
|
Well it passed!
Even got a compliment about the quality of the repairs.
Appart from the welding the only repair I have done is replace a brake pipe, so this reinforced my opinion that mechanically it is pretty good.
There were a couple issues though, firstly the headlamp washers developed incontinence and flooded the MOT bay, stopped it with a mole grip on the pipe, the solution will be to take them off and throw it all away!
Secondly he tested the emissions on petrol, it passed but clearly was not right at 0.2% CO and 850ppm HC, either it has an air leak or the vane air meter has drifted out of calibration, I suspect the later as spraying brake cleaner around the plenum etc has no effect.
So appart from the above the plan is to finish the welding on the rh inner wing and pull out things like the alarm etc which don't work as well as tidying some of the dodgy trim parts. Then over the summer paint it.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2016 20:50:27 GMT
|
|
Been using the rangie all week, no major problems but it has developed a trans fluid leak from the cooler hoses, they are crimped to one steel pipe then push over another with a hose clamp, I changed the hose clamps and that end is now dry but the crimped ends are also leaking, for temporary I may get away with an additional clamp, but the hoses are pretty hard so need replacing. They are 8mm diameter most online places seem to list fuel line as suitable for oil, anyone any experience of using this?
Kevin
|
| |
Last Edit: Jan 17, 2016 20:52:36 GMT by kevins
|
|
