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Aug 14, 2016 20:26:28 GMT
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2016 20:28:10 GMT by cobblers
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Deffo way earlier than mk3 fiesta, With the rotation of the air inlet thats off a RWD.
I reckon mk5 cortina.
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Basically don't bother, whatever you use will flake off fairly quickly.
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Depending on how easy access is, it's easy to overlook just driving the car for 10 minutes as a way of heating up and loosening off exhaust fasteners. Obviously it's not practical if you've got to squeeze your hand in against the pipe but it can help.
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The generator would be quieter than the grinder, but the noise they make is louder and more annoying than even a fairly loud idling car engine.
What about using an inverter off your car battery?
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One bump before it goes on eBay
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Jul 25, 2016 21:06:07 GMT
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Last Edit: Jun 18, 2017 19:22:09 GMT by cobblers
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Jul 25, 2016 17:53:27 GMT
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If it's a little silver capsule it's a thermal fuse.
It won't have failed for no reason - usual suspects are a blocked pollen filter or a stiff motor drawing too much current but providing too little flow, so don't be tempted to just bridge it out.
You can buy replacement fuses from eBay/maplins/RS if you can decipher the value of it. They're a curse word to solder on without blowing them. I usually wind the legs into a springy coil so that you've got a couple of CM distance between your solder joint and the fuse itself, and wrap a bit of damp cloth round the fuse too.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:21:10 GMT
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There's nothing that'll really do this off the shelf. Could you not just put them both on the same feed and have a single switch control this?
Alternatively crack open the CB and run a wire off the power switch and use that to switch a relay (use a relay with an internal diode for back EMF protection) which powers the amp.
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Yeah, you wouldn't believe how strong sikaflex is. If you can push it down by hand then it'll hold no problems. I was taught that as a thermoset, GRP wouldn't bend with heat once it has cured properly. BUT I then read something written by someone who definitely knows what he's doing which said that: A property of the poly resins is referred to as the Tg point, or glass transition point. This is the point on the temp scale where it changes from a stiff and solid glass like substance, to a pliable soft cheese type substance. Heat the (cured)resin above the Tg, and it WILL bend, then cool it and it will stay bent. Most poly's are in the 45c~60c range, some of the more expensive polys are near to 80c, if given proper post cure. Epoxies are similar, but generally have much higher Tg's. So, YES, you CAN bend the item, or have a good try. The structural shape will have as much influence as the change point of the resin. I've experienced this first hand a few times. We fitted Pop-top roofs to VW T5 vans, the roofs came from a cheap supplier so we spent ages getting them to fit perfectly, but we got there in the end. Took the vans to a show, left them parked with the roofs elevated in the sun all day. When we came to go home, one roof had bent like a banana and no longer fitted. After much wrangling we got a new roof from the supplier - three days later it was fitted and painted, no problems, until it was left up in the sun again, but the others were fine. Turns out that this van had a black roof and the supplier was using the cheapest possible resin. The black roof was getting hot enough in the sun to soften it and cause it to bow under it's own weight (it was supported in the middle by the gas struts) My solution would have been to take the roof back off and fit a decent quality one, but we ended up just fitting yet another cheapo one and painting it white. ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png)
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Having owned or a lot of experience with all of the following, I would say that the Costco ones you've seen are on a level with Clarke Industrial and the black Halfords Professional boxes at "Well made, overbuilt and solid, finished off nicely with good quality handles and runners" whereas the eBay boxes are "cheaply made from slightly too thin gauge of metal, with the cheapest possible runners and nasty chromed plastic handles"
IMO the US pro/Dirty pro ones (they're the same boxes with different badges) are like toy tool boxes. I own a couple but use them for light storage of stuff for my electrical hobby. Like you would a normal chest of drawers - They're at home in the attic. They do the job fine but if you loaded them with much weight the drawer runners would struggle and even unloaded you have to mind how you pull them open otherwise they can twist and bind.
At work we have Clarke industrial boxes which are nice - I would say a little overpriced but if you can get one on offer with 20% off then go for it. The gaffers at work only bought them because they were blue and matched the workbenches!
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Jun 30, 2016 20:42:19 GMT
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I don't think I've ever seen surface rust on a sill, it's always rusted from the inside out. What looks like surface rust, is where the sill has rusted out from the inside, then let water through the pinprick hole which caused the bubble in the paint and caused a bit of rust on the outside.
The metal surrounding the hole will be wafer thin, the holes are just where it ended up thin enough to go through. Go at at as hard as you can with an old screwdriver, if you can poke it through then it would have rusted out within a few months anyway. It'll need welding.
And from experience it might seem simpler to keep the patch as small as possible, it's almost always easier to make a bigger patch - I'd always extend at least 3cm from the edge of any rust hole.
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Jun 29, 2016 10:08:01 GMT
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As above, you need a wideband controller (IE innovate lc1) because the sensors themselves need a lot of electronics to get them to do anything. The LC1 will have a 0-5v output.
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There's unlikely to be enough thickness under the bolt holes to machine any off before the wheel bolts fall through the holes.
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Jun 14, 2016 17:16:09 GMT
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Really? I've know loads of them fail. My mate at a local french car breakers used to get £20 each for them as old core, he collected them by the pallet load and sent them to Poland for refurb. They usually get noisy and seize up, or alternatively they lock up after being stood for a while.
The VAG pumps like that talk to an ECU and a steering angle sensor to set the pressure. If they're not happy with the input, they turn off completely.
You could probably bypass the electronics to feed 12v to the motor directly, but they draw an incredible amount of current when run flat out.
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If the master cylinder is old I wouldn't bleed the brakes using the pedal anyway as you're likely to push the piston in the cylinder past it's "normal" travel and damage the seals on the lip at the end of the bore. Gunson easy bleed or a vacuum system is the way to go. 100% Absolutely this. I've probably "pump bled" ten cars and half of them have ended up needing a new master cylinder. The ones that did were always the old ones. I looked inside the master cylinder on one and outside the normal stroke the bore was grubby and pitted from moisture in the fluid. Definitely just buy or borrow an easibleed.
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Apr 11, 2016 19:53:32 GMT
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Whereabouts are you?
Edit: sorry, didn't see your location on my phone.
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2016 20:21:43 GMT by cobblers
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The last time I used it, Me and the girlfriend did a weeks tour of North Yorkshire - the van was great, but we found it wasn't really big enough for all her curse word and crouching round all the time didn't do her back any favours. Had my first blowout - rear tyre at 60mph. Went from "oh, whats that noise?" to "Kaboom flap flap flap flap " within about 3 seconds. Luckily it was a fine day, the blowout was on a safe stretch of road and the spare was pumped up. In the end I got a pair of rear tyres fitted as I didn't trust what was on the other side either. ![](http://i.imgur.com/khZYlcUh.jpg) We went round a few places and ended up at Robin Hoods Bay which is basically my favourite place in the world. I'd bought a drive-away awning to clear some room in the van, but even in the middle of summer, when parked up a massive hill on the coast, the awning blew about so much that I barely slept all night because I was worried it was going to collapse and make a mess of my van - so it only lasted one night before I took it down. ![](http://i.imgur.com/fuag4IVh.jpg) It was great on less exposed areas though - I'd definitely recommend one.
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Last Edit: Feb 4, 2016 21:35:50 GMT by cobblers
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It's VW toffee brown - unbelievably expensive because it's a mica/pearlescent of something - just the basecoat was something like £300+, I nearly fainted when the bill came as I thought it was a plain metallic and 1/3rd of that price. I had about a litre spare, but the bottom of the paint tin it was in rusted through while it was on the shelf in the garage, and dripped all over the roof of the van. Ironically, the paint had been saved to redo the roof of the van which needed painting again really.
Sadly the van is more or less as I left off in the last post - I've used it a few more times but just don't have chance to do anything with it nowadays, I live 20 miles away from where it's kept so I find I never bother just "popping down" to spend an hour or so on it.
I think in the next few months I'll get it booked into a bodyshop for the roof done and a couple of other bits tidying up that the painter first time round ballsed up, then I'll put it up for sale.
As for exhausts, I'm not sure if the port spacing is the same or not. Personally I'd stick an AGG in just to get the more modern engine management system - it really does drive so much better than any old mk1 or mk2 golf engine I've ever experienced - it makes my old mk2 1.8GTI feel prehistoric!
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