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Apr 30, 2012 21:56:50 GMT
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The centre bore doesn't even need to touch the spigot on the hub (and doesn't on a lot of wheels, IE VW Transporters up until 1990) - once the wheel bolts are tightened it bears no load at all unless something has gone terribly wrong. 99% of aftermarket alloy use a cheapo plastic spigot ring that can barely hold it's own weight, let alone that of a car
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Apr 30, 2012 21:46:10 GMT
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Nice work, the copper trick is great isnt it!
I've never got round to getting hold of a proper lump of copper so I always end up having to hold 2p pieces on with a hammer handle, and it's costing me money (Especially since they have been made out of steel since 1992)
It all looks remarkably sound underneath the paint!
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Apr 30, 2012 20:38:14 GMT
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Take the lot, front bumper with splitter, decent radiator with 2 big snazzy fans. Air con condenser as well, and the indicators/foglights. £10 or swap for beer Tailgate, nice and solid with all the electrics and whatnot. Probably a few scropes on it somewhere. £10, or swap for beer. I'll swap the lot for an old stainless exhaust off something with plenty of bends and some slim boxes to cut to pieces to fit my van. Collection only from Rotherham S65. Thankyou!
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Last Edit: Apr 30, 2012 20:43:35 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 30, 2012 17:46:36 GMT
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It'll make no noticeable difference to performance, sound or MPG I'm afraid.
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Not got a lot done cos weekends have been either at shows, or fixing Jon's van or whatever. Went to Newark Autojumble and picked up backbox and some antifreeze. The exhaust was a bargain at £10, and it should tuck up behind the rear valance. It's an "offset" one, which means the gases have to go through a bit of silencing stuff rather than being straight through. Since this will probably be the only box in the system, I need something that'll keep things quiet ish. Jon has 306 back box on his and it's a bit loud/spluttery sounding due, I think to the fact that there's not a lot of expansion room to "smooth" the gas flow out. I'm really not an exhaust designer so I'm probably talking ballcocks. Jon was out with his missus yesterday so I decided to just go pick the wiring looms up and get cracking on with that. The AGG engine wiring loom is entwined with the headlights, wipers, needlessly complicated cooling fan setup and a load of air conditioning guff that's no good to me. Jons 2e engine loom literally had just the engine on it. The Golf wiring is fairly nice in that they have a "modular" fusebox, and there's stacks of info on it all online: www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.htmlI want to run all the diagnostics, immo2 and clocks from the golf, so rather than try and splice the engine loom into my van, I'll just run the whole fuse box with only the stuff I need plugged in. This will make things a lot easier for any future owners of the van, because the entire engine wiring system is just a mk3 Golf Gti. It'll only join to the van for +12v, ground and the ignition switch. The fuse box will go under the bed in the back nicely. I used the resource above and some wiring diagrams off a dodgy russian website ( vwts.ru/page09_g3 ) and made a start on trimming the loom down. The plan for the day was to get the loom stripped back to what I needed, and then get the whole thing live on the workshop floor, connected to VAG-COM to confirm the immobiliser was working properly etc. Here it is as I started. I'm not sure why I took this photo. It was probably to remind myself of something important. That plug is for the wipers though so it can't have been that important These are all the plugs related to the radiator fan. Talk about unnecessarily complex! There's a "fan control module" as well. Whatever was wrong with just having a fan wired through a 2 pin fan switch? or even a 3 pin one with 2 speeds if you want to get posh. Anyway, I lopped it all out. Here I am about 75% of the way through. The bucket is full to the top with the wiring I've removed: All finished (ish) and plugged up to the fuse box. The clocks work, coolant and oil lights flash when I turn the ignition on and the speedo works when I feed a signal down the VSS lead. I couldn't get VAG COM to talk to anything, which I reckon is probably either the cheapo dongle not playing ball with Windows 7 64 bit and or the ECU is missing a ground that would pick up from the other half of the engine wiring loom that stays captive on the engine (which is 3 miles way) The ECU doesn't seem to be priming the fuel pump relay so I suspect this is probably the case. I'll give it another go next weekend when it's plugged up to the engine and stuff. Might even try and get the engine started on the deck so I can be 100% sure it'll all work straight away when fitted in the van. Since I'm using the Golf Speedo which uses an electronic sender, I needed to sort something out to produce an accurate VSS signal. The ECU also benefits from one. Jon's been driving round with no speedo since we put his engine in cos I've been "getting round to" finishing off a little gizmo to produce the speedo pulses using a GPS receiver. AFter having one receiver die and another one just act flaky, I decided to go back to basics and use a pickup off the speedo cable. I got a sender but obviously it didn't output anywhere near the right amount of pulses per mile, so things needed adjusting. I had a few methods in mind - I could "overkill" it and just get an arduino and do the whole conversion in code, or I could do it more on the hardware side, with a Frequency-voltage chip (lm3914 iirc) and the use that voltage to generate a frequency. I priced that up and even before I'd bought all the guff to suppliment the chips, I'd be into the best part of a tenner. I thought balls to it and ordered an Arduino Nano from china for a tenner posted. It turned up fairly quickly, and I threw this together: It reads a frequency from the speedo pickup (silver cylinder on the left) and works out the speed in MPH which it displays on screen. It also outputs the "correct" frequency to drive the golf ECU and speedo. A bit of testing and debugging in Jons van and it works! I built a version "permanently" into a little project box to go on Jons van: You can see the square wave output on my little 'scope. Fingers crossed next weekend I'll get something a bit more major done.
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Last Edit: Apr 30, 2012 12:21:08 GMT by cobblers
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If you can lock the DA sander so it just spins without "wiggling" you'll smash paint off in no time without clogging disks. I'm told some have a hole that you can put a pin in, but the ones I used didn't so I just whacked a jubilee clip round. interesting. i'll look into that. don't wanna break the works only DA thou mind you, we do have a slightly broken lecy one I could modify..... I did it with a 'lectric one, not sure if the air ones have the same torque? It worked great with the leccy one, I think the speed the thing spins round at just flings all the debris and paint out of the way before it can clog the pad up. Does the outside edges of the pads in and it's a bit tricky to control but you get the hang of it after a bit. If you;ve ever used a floor buffer you'll know what I mean.
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Apr 29, 2012 19:53:15 GMT
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If you can lock the DA sander so it just spins without "wiggling" you'll smash paint off in no time without clogging disks. I'm told some have a hole that you can put a pin in, but the ones I used didn't so I just whacked a jubilee clip round.
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Apr 29, 2012 19:08:46 GMT
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Either you have an air riveter, or you are a masochist!
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Apr 25, 2012 15:46:20 GMT
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The way I see it is this section is a good inclusion because it sorts out "plain" old ish motors from the real good stuff and slows the page turnover on the real interesting adverts down, so someone selling something dead cool doesn't have to bump the advert 3 times a day just to keep it's head above the tide of Mondeos, Focuses and Meganes that nobody comes here to look for, and any interest they get in them would be purely coincidental.
It's like me standing outside macdonalds asking everyone if they want to buy a 25kg bag of sand. Eventually, I'll sell my sand, but nobody goes to macdonalds to buy sand and in the process I'll have wasted loads of peoples time.
There are stacks of better places to advertise and look for normal cars for sale.
I don't see why people 1: are even bothering to advertise them here, and 2: are getting in a tizzy about the advert being locked.
These people are completely missing the point of the for sale section on Retro Rides, and I personally hang the loosest definition on Retro of almost anyone here (I brought a '99 Lupo to RRG 10 FFS)
I don't try and advertise VW spares over on The Mini Forum, because it would be a waste my time. If I did, and someone deleted the thread I wouldn't get my knickers in a twist, even if there were no "rules" saying that no VW spares should be advertised. It's absolutely bloody obvious.
The mods on here have an awkward job and people completely missing the point of the for sale section don't make that any easier.
Let's hope this name change makes things even clearer for people!
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Apr 24, 2012 13:44:01 GMT
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BUMP!
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Just buy a £500 Saxo VTS and use the other £500 for actually paying for track days. You'll have just as much fun in one of them as anything IMO. If you put it through a load of tyres you can then just buy a £200 AX/106/saxo and swap everything over in a weekend.
Don't do what most people do - Spend every penny they have on building an "awesome" track car, and then not be able to afford to take it out!
Stuff like a Rallye gearbox will cost £300+ and there's no guarantee it'll be any good. In fact from experience, it probably won't! Stick with cheap replacement bits that you don't need to worry about abusing.
A gearbox off a 1.1 106 will be in better condition to start with, cost £35 and you'll have just as much fun with it, even if you lose half a second per lap or whatever.
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2012 6:46:36 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 23, 2012 16:27:13 GMT
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The seals on these windscreens are much the same as the side windows aren't they? If they are like all the VW t2 and t3 glasses I've tackled, they aren't bad to get out but you do need 2 people really - one person to pull the seal back on the inside and another to push the glass out bit by bit. Start in a corner and pull the seal right back so you can see the edge of the window aperture and slowly shove the screen out while working the seal back. A good trick is to use some small blocks of wood to hold the rubbers back, this way you need to put a lot less force into removing the screen: With this method even a big t25 windscreen comes out with very minimal force. You could probably do it alone, but I like to have two people around just because I'm clumsy. If the seals are hard and cracked they won't want to flex much, and are probably not reusable anyway. In which case just cut round the edge and the screen will pretty much drop out
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2012 16:29:13 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 23, 2012 15:56:59 GMT
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Have you thought about decambering them yourself? A few threads on here about a "tool" made out of a bottle jack to just press the springs a bit flatter Johnny69 and Dez have both tackled it. Looks pretty straightforward and it'll only cost a tenner for a cheap jack and a bit of scrap steel.
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Apr 22, 2012 20:13:19 GMT
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I've got one of them DSO nanos (mines a V2) and while they aren't really as good as a "proper" scope, they are dead handy on the car and once you put the new firmware on they are fairly straightforward to use.
They have an "auto" setting which works for most signals, but adjusting the volts/div and time/div is easy and probably all you'll need to do.
An old analog scope with a CRT with major image burn in is the easiest and probably cheapest way to get into this kind of thing, but they are big awkward sods so it's a hassle to drag the thing out every time you wonder what x signal would look like. You'd end up avoiding using it a lot of the time. They are great for working on a workbench in a lab though.
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2012 20:15:53 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 22, 2012 19:17:35 GMT
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Bash the bolt round with a proper flat chisel and big hammer. Aim the chisel at the side of the bolt head roughly perpendicular - give it a good few clouts until it makes itself a groove, then drive the bolt round and out.
It'll cost nothing and will almost definitely get the bolt moving.
No need to grind anything, and you should have enough access just by removing the wheel.
Out of the last 3 pairs of golf calipers I removed, 10 of tht bolts were rounded and every one flew out with this method.
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Apr 19, 2012 13:00:50 GMT
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That's beautiful. I would literally SIT ALL OVER those seats.
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Apr 19, 2012 10:03:40 GMT
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I love these cars, and with a 2.0 zetec in they'll fly. I'd have personally kept the OE injection because carbs baffle me and I like the idea of an immobiliser in the key etc.
Have you considered porting that manifold and adaptor to remove that big step? You'll lose power there.
Fairly easy to do by bolting the adaptor to the manifold and using a zetec gasket to mark the shape of the ports on the zetec head. Then just grind out as much as you dare before breaking through. Perhaps get someone to lay some weld down on the left side of the manifold ports to give you more to go at?
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Apr 18, 2012 16:44:11 GMT
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The fronts will sit pretty much the same, the rears will stick out 30mm more than stock (and further in 7mm) but I reckon you'll be perfectly fine if you don't use tractor tyres. Maybe look at some 18s or some that are a bit wider? I'd be going for 8.5s all round personally (I ran 8.5 et15 on my Lupo, so you'll piss 8.5 et 30 all round on a Leon!)
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Last Edit: Apr 18, 2012 16:45:49 GMT by cobblers
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Apr 18, 2012 14:02:29 GMT
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Most relatively new Porsche wheels have mega high offsets (50-60) so there's usually room for 20mm of adaptors before you even need to worry about arch scrapage.
Do some measuring, you may well get away with the wider ones at the rear.
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Apr 18, 2012 12:16:20 GMT
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Have you tried exhaustsuk near the arena? They do make a lot of lousy straight through systems for 1.0 corsas, but they can make a good exhaust if you ask, and I saw them making a manifold when I was there.
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Last Edit: Apr 18, 2012 12:27:45 GMT by cobblers
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