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Sept 2, 2012 21:57:22 GMT
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Fantastic little car's these, would love another. Much quicker than you would expect, will go off the clock easy enough. If your ever tempted to swap the engine out, the 106 Gti engine drops in and can run low 14's/high 13's. Been there, recommend that (in a 106 rallye. 14s are doable, 13s really aren't in either without $£$£$£$£$) but regulations don't allow it which is a shame.
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Last Edit: Sept 2, 2012 21:59:17 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 2, 2012 20:13:38 GMT
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There's generally not enough thickness in the face of steelies to redrill the PCD and use proper bolts - The original holes are pressed to be a bit deeper so there's depth for the taper of the bolts to center the wheel without bottoming out. You could possibly get a new center welded in or some taper "washers" welded to the wheel, but unless you are really dead set on putting a particular wheel on the car it's a better idea to just find a wheel with a suitable PCD
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I went a couple of months ago russ and you can wander about - It's got new staff now, so not the old pair (the one grumpy curse word and the nice bloke)
They were getting ready for clearing the whole site over summer so there wasn't a lot of stock, and the cars that were there had already been pretty much bummed for everything.
They have got to dig the whole place up and lay a concrete slab to stop oil draining into the ground or whatever, so ring them up before you go down, make sure they have reopened.
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Sept 1, 2012 21:39:43 GMT
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It's not good news to hear someone's rolled a car especially a nice mk3 capri, but just like good novas, in about 3 years we will be wondering where all the saxos went.
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Sept 1, 2012 21:35:54 GMT
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Sept 1, 2012 20:46:02 GMT
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See how you go for a few hundred miles, it could well free itself off - obviously keep an eye on the temperature and make sure the coolant is topped up etc.
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Sept 1, 2012 20:44:47 GMT
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Get some penetrating oil on the torsion bars right now. And again in a few hours, ang again a few hours after, etc etc etc.
As I said at RRG, you've picked a goodun!
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Aug 29, 2012 16:45:47 GMT
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Try adrian flux, footman james insurance and peter james insurance. I bet a call round those three will result in a <£200 quote
I got a quote of £150 for a modified mk2 golf gti, 3k a year as a 2nd car so not using my NCB or anything. I'm 26.
I pay £300 with adrian flux on a modified (engine swap from a golf, lowered, alloys etc) t25 camper van as my daily driver. I've got 8 years NCB
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Aug 28, 2012 21:28:18 GMT
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What year? it makes a lot of difference!
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Aug 28, 2012 20:29:34 GMT
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That rubber bit goes on top of the strut top bearing by the looks of it, which is on top of the spring top mount jobbie (about 3 items down in the stack from where you are now)
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2012 20:30:26 GMT by cobblers
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Aug 27, 2012 21:16:43 GMT
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T4s are decent vans but really stupid money to buy lately - Prices for late t4s aren't far off the price of a much better condition t5 and there's really no comparison - T5s are really much better all round, and you can still buy all the parts from VW. VW are currently discontinuing most "trim" parts for t4s like sliding door steps, ashtrays, rear threshold covers and all the stuff that is generally bashed to hell on ex builders vans, which is really annoying and the used parts prices are flying up to reflect this. I convert them to campers as one of my on and off jobs and in the last 18 months the price of post 2000 t4s has gone up by about 40-50%. You could probably buy an early t5 with less miles on for about the same price, and T5s will wear the miles a lot better. That's not to say t4s are bad vans, it's just hard to buy one for anywhere near the right money unless its a petrol one or something which people seem to avoid like the plague. That said I drive a t25 camper daily and wouldn't swap it for a t4 unless it was something really special - they are sort of stuck in that "not new and nice/not old and interesting" zone. Anyway, T4s: Lower them 60mm and they drive ok but there's fairly limited front suspension travel up front, the bumps stops aren't too hard though so it doesn't hurt too bad. Lowering them this far is cheap - £60 for rear springs and just wind the front bars down, job done in about an hour. Cheap springs are curse word if you want to carry any weight but a normal camper conversion is OK unless you have got 4 people and all their luggage. They rust in various places but the sliding door runner is very common and very annoying, check it out right at the front, the runner track wears at the steel and it rusts through and the door runner bearing drops through the hole when the door is shut. Pain in the to fix properly because you have to weld a patch in perfectly flush or the door runner will grind on it, and there isn't room to get in on top to smooth the repair out with a grinder unless you cut half the side of the van off for access. Take some rags and a torch and wipe all the grease out of the front end of the runner and check it, look from underneath also, give it a good poke. As for engines, 1.9td are alright, 2.5tdi are quite good and you can remap them and make the a bit more sprightly if needs be. 2.4 none turbo are dog slow and super clattery but apparently dead reliable.
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Aug 26, 2012 21:39:35 GMT
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there's nothing you can really do to a matt or satin finish, you're stuck with whatever you get out of the gun - sanding it would leave it looking "sanded", and any kind of rubbing compound would make it shiny. Matt black will always be a bit rough, perhaps you were looking for more of a satin finish? If so just knock it back with some 500 and go at it with a coat of satin.
Why not just paint it the same as the rest of the car? If you're happy to put several coats of primer and do some flatting back etc it seems a waste to cover it in bodge matt black!
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Last Edit: Aug 26, 2012 21:44:56 GMT by cobblers
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Aug 26, 2012 10:39:56 GMT
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They aren't a bad job really, PAS makes it more awkward cos there are pipes in the way but its not soooo bad. Few pointers: Driveshafts just slide out of the box (no circlips or owt) - get a pair of new driveshaft oil seals, they are for nothing and are always weeping. Dead easy to replace when the box is off. Lever the selector linkage rods off with a 12/13mm spanner, try not to pull them to pieces, IIRC they are about £12 a piece from peugeot.
If it's a model with equal length shafts (Sport ones, drivers driveshaft bolts to a big aly bracket on the engine block) don't be fooled into thinking you can slide the gearbox off it without removing the shaft from the mount. You can't and you'll spend ages trying to jiggle it off wasting your time.
Drain the gearbox oil first of all or you'll lose most of it when the shafts come out and the rest will pour on your face when you lift the box off. You need an 8mm square key, same as the sump plug key to remove the drain plug. When you refill it, fill through the breather on top of the box (under black plastic cap). They take 2 litres from empty so no need to mess around filling it til it weeps out of the fill plug, just buy two 1l bottles and tip the lot in.
Mind the crank sensor on the front of the block.
That's all I can think of, as I say it's not a terrible job and there's no real gotchas. My first one on my Saxo VTR took all day cos there was PAS pipes in the way and everything went wrong, but I did one in a couple of hours on my 106 XSi because it had all only been in there for 20 minutes and everything came off easily.
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Aug 25, 2012 15:19:06 GMT
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I sold a mk3 tailgate and a front bumper and they both fitted in a KA, so they'll fly in a golf.
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Aug 25, 2012 14:53:21 GMT
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Awesome purchase!
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Aug 24, 2012 21:27:23 GMT
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They can be a curse word, never done a 205 but ive done a few cars like 106s which I bet aren't a long way off seemed to take far more force than I was comfortable putting on the plastic resovoirs (especially with new seals), and then they occasionally turned the seals inside out on the way in.
I'd try just using a splash of brake fluid as a "lube" on the seals. its not much cop as a lube but it's worked for me and doesn't introduce anything foreign into the system.
If that doesn't work try a little bit of normal grease. It's worked as a last resort and the little bit left in the reservoir didn't cause any issues.
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Aug 22, 2012 21:14:05 GMT
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The split and bay window VW Campers do have a seperate chassis. However, when the body is fitted it is welded in place and so becomes integral. This does of course mean that you could find a VW bus with tatty body work, and simple cut the body off it. Then carry out any necessary chassis repairs and you have a foundation. I don't want to be mr doom and gloom but I can honestly not think of a worse way to get a rolling chassis! You'd pay about 3k for an absolute wreck of a bay, or double that for a wreck of a splitty to get a probably rusty chassis that is designed round the absolute boat anchor VW engines and awful suspension. On top of that the DVLA wouldn't recognise it as a separate chassis so the vehicle would need IVAing anyway so you might as well just have built your own chassis around some halfway decent running gear.
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2012 21:16:16 GMT by cobblers
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Aug 22, 2012 19:57:37 GMT
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Skidding round on the grass is absolutely bang out of order, especially on a showground as tightly packed and busy with people as it was at prescott on sunday. Obviously the place is owned by the Bugatti owners club and they are being pretty accommodating allowing us idiots on it, without arseholes churning the grass up any more than it needs to be. He's not the first or the last but there's a time and a place and that was neither. Had it gone slightly wrong then the odds are that the show wouldn't be welcome back at Prescott which is an absolutely brilliant venue.
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Aug 22, 2012 16:24:01 GMT
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Yup, got one here! £25 posted?
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2012 16:25:18 GMT by cobblers
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Aug 20, 2012 22:25:45 GMT
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^ Just goes to show that most engines can be made to sound pretty good. ;D I'd worked out whose van it was, so knew what engine it was - the noise just came as a bit of a surprise... Good work on the lights and revcounter too. If I might make one suggestion, it would be worth putting a capacitor across the input of the LM317s - they oscillate for fun without one (due to the inductance of the feed wires) which makes them rather warm. You'd be unlikely to see the oscillation on your 'scope (assuming that it's a budget or older model) as it's in the MHz range. A 0.1uF Ceramic should do the trick. I must congratulate you on the signwriting too. Cheers man! My scope is pretty curse word really on the scale of things, but I "won" it so it'll suffice for now. Massive 200khz bandwidth. I really need to pick up a cheap old proper scope off ebay like I used to use at uni, but they are all huge and seem to go for £100+, which seems a lot when compared to a brand new new Rigol 1052 at just over £200 for 50mhz. I've got one right at the top of my next tool purchase list! In the end my cheapo chinese constant current boards turned up after a couple of weeks and replaced the 317s, at a cost of about £3 for the pair. I know I should be putting capacitors on the outputs of the 317s but I'm happy to just abuse them for what they cost. Most of the time the load is compatible enough to stop them oscillating although like you say I probably haven't realised it with my instruments,
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