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Sept 27, 2012 15:05:35 GMT
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I bet he's already pressed the clutch loads of times!
The flywheel will probably be spigoted onto the crank to align it centrally (They don't rely on the bolts for location), and the clutch release bearing will be pushing against it which is stopping the whole lot dropping off and making a bid for freedom.
Does it look as though it's had the gearbox off recently?
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Sept 24, 2012 23:20:04 GMT
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Thanks for the replies - so it seems theres no way I can bang some numbers into a calculator and add X amount of pipe to make it all nice and quiet - Fair enough. I'll go back to my old plan of getting about 4 90 bends and send the gases round a few corners, (perhaps through another little box if I can fit one) and out the back of the van - the current pipe exits sideways out of the drivers side which I reckon makes it sound a lot louder to my - bouncing the sound off anything at the side of the road and right into my window.
Cheers lads
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Sept 23, 2012 21:16:55 GMT
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I've spent weeks of my life googling this and asked many questions on this subject before, but I'm still stuck. On my van I've got an exhaust. It's fairly short, probably 2.5m long from cylinder head to tailpipe. It's got a pair of powerflow type stainless straight through silencers - they are as big as I could fit in. 6" diameter, both 18" long. Long story short: See the crudely bolted on 6" long bit of 2.25" pipe on the end? I bolted that on, and it turned it from being insanely loud and doing huge great backfires on gearchanges to being almost acceptable. After spending stacks of money to stuff loads of silencers in and for it to still be mega loud, adding 6" of scrap pipe to the end and almost halving the noise has ruffled my feathers! I kind of understand that the length of a tailpipe will tune it to a certain frequency, like a port in a sub box. If I just keep making this pipe longer will the exhaust get quieter and quieter, or is it a case of hitting a certain length for ultimate quiet, and hit the wrong length and it'll be mega loud again? My Lupo had just one of these exact same silencers (which I have two of) as a center box and then one mega long pipe from that up to the back end and it wasn't a lot louder than stock.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2012 21:22:06 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 23, 2012 15:01:34 GMT
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Good grief, how do you get your brain round those electrics? I'm tight and skint so either I work out how to make/fix something or go without! Great project, got a major want for a T25 now, just spent an hour scanning ebay! They're approaching crazy money on ebay for anything that runs and is tested! I reckon the best bet is scan forums and gumtree/local papers for something thats ideally a diesel and doesn't run, then you can stick a golf engine in over a few days (even a diesel if you prefer) and have something a bit more livewithable! Kudos for doing 'lectrics whil being colourblind - that said I pretty much always double check stuff and don't just rely on the colour of a wire. Anyway, bit of an update: Managed to get a pair like new but "part worn" tyres fitted and the tracking done for £75 which wasn't so bad. I stepped up to 215/40/18 from the 35s that were on before since there was LOADS of clearance with the 35s. These bigger tyres combined with the extra 40mm of travel and more damping have absolutely transformed the van. The same potholes that used to really hammer the van are barely noticeable now. Not sure how much I trust the "firenza" tyres, but for what they cost, they'll get me by for a while. I'm probably going to put some bigger rear tyres on now - they are 225/40/18 (the ones Porsche fitted on the front wheels) so I might step up to something like a 255/40 after following my mates van that we've got 255s on the rear of - the wide tyre looks brilliant. You might notice the van is filthy - I don't think it's ever been washed in at least 5 years. I'm not going for "rat look" on purpose, but it's got a certain scruffy white van charm about it, especially the roof: Anyway I'm debating washing it, or perhaps just the wheels since they are covered in handprints and tyre soap. I dunno. I'm assuming the paint under the muck is pretty flat and curse word, it's two slightly different shades of white too. I bought a few things down at Busfest - first of all a new header tank. The one on my van is an early one without a provision for a level sender, and with all the old cooling pipes on these vans I'd much rather know if a hose has popped off: After 6 months of owning all the parts to fit it, I finally got round to putting central locking on the Sliding door. It's not pretty but it works GR8 and slams locked with a really satisfying thud. I picked a set of curtains up off Reza (Van-x) and finally got them fitted after months of being woken up by the sun every morning (and risking being put on a "list" where I'm not allowed to go near schools or playgrounds when getting changed in the back of the van after I've been out on the bike round Sherwood Pines) When the exhaust guy made the exhaust, he fitted my old 3.5" tailpipe to it as a "surprise" but I'd rather he didn't - I just wanted it as a 2.5" straight pipe. I put up with it for a while but decided to just chop it off one day, hoping it would make the exhaust a bit quieter. Somehow cutting 6" of pipe off the end of the exhaust made it literally twice as loud! It popped and banged on gearchange and made a right racket. There's probably some exact tuned length for optimum sh*tness that I'd hit. To get me by for now, I dug a bit of pipe out of the "bits of pipe bin" and made a 6" long exhaust extender, which has now made it loads better, a fair bit quieter than with the 3.5" jobbie. Looks a bit gash, when I've got a bit more cash I'll get a few bends and add another little silencer under the rear tub. Also fitted ebay's cheapest electric window kit, something like £45. Dead happy with it, the switches and mount it comes with are just curse word enough looking to suit the 80s VW interior. I'd be gutted if I was fitting them to something like a Vivaro like they are mainly sold for. Ages ago when I first got the van and had absolutely no idea where the back end of it was when reversing, I bought a reversing camera kit thing, it clips over the original rear view mirror. I was at a loss as to where to stick the camera. I didn't want it visible, so I hid it in a number 3 on the number plate: Finally, the brakes on the van had always had a lot of pedal travel. It stopped a lot better than you'd expect an old van to stop, but the pedal moved loads. Handbrake was OK and it all passed the MOT fine, but the pedal travel bugged me. I had a shifty round and found one of the handbrake cables had collapsed: £9 later and a man from GSF brought along a new one which I'm sure will deffo last 25 years like the old one did While I had the drum off I checked the adjuster was free and then tightened them up a click or two: Now I have a much better handbrake and even better -the brake pedal travel is perfect, right at the top of the pedal. After driving it for a year needing 3" of travel before anything happened I've got to be careful to not put myself through the windscreen if I forget. Can't see a lot happening to the van for a while cos I'm more or less unemployed at the moment and even more skint than usual. Finally going to look for a proper job - Working from home doing patent stuff and converting vans to campers with a mate isn't going to get me anywhere and I need to start earning some steady money and sort my finances out.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2012 15:04:31 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 19, 2012 9:56:20 GMT
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I thought you really needed fuel injection with lamba senors in order to run cats? That's right, you can't just bung a cat on an engine fed by a normal carb expect it to last more than a few thousand miles. They'll 100% deffo be knackered by it's first MOT. Ladas in the mid-90s used fancy computer controlled carbs to try and get a bit more life out of the cat, but they weren't very successful at all. The exhaust guy had their pants down with those fancy turbine muffler things too - "they suck the gases out" Car looked and sounded ace, but I'm glad it wasn't my money being wizzed up the wall on the exhaust only to have to replace the cats for every MOT. IIRC they could just provide some documentation to prove the engine was built before 1992 and have the easy emissions test that doesn't require a Cat. It was this way for the SVA, not sure about with IVA
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2012 10:03:56 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 18, 2012 17:50:10 GMT
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Just make sure the car isn't aimed at anything expensive, just in case!
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Sept 18, 2012 17:02:55 GMT
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Usual method is to get the back wheels off the floor on something sturdy, then get the wheels spinning up in 4th gear up to as fast as you dare, then slam the brakes on. Obviously all this needs to be done while holding the clutch down, so you'll need your mate jake the rake to do this or wedge the clutch down with a bit of wood off the seat or something
They apparently free up better when warm, so let it run for a bit in neutral.
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Sept 18, 2012 10:27:16 GMT
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I bought these to try on my T3 - They fitted fine and wound down as low as possible gave about a 80mm drop on a panel van. They are designed for a T4 but fitted my T3 fine. They were probably a little on the stiff side for a panel van. Used for about 2 weeks/150 miles. I'd recommend using some "lowered" dampers because they dislocated a bit when jacked up, but passed the MOT no worries. Advertised as 20-90mm drop on a T4 but I don't think there's really enough adjustment in the spring platforms for that - I reckon more like 50-80. I was hanging on to them to put back on the van one day but I'll never bother. The springs are 160mm tall. Adjusters are 55mm ID with grubscrews to secure, and the spring platform jobbie is 72mm ID. £85 posted.
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2012 10:30:53 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 16, 2012 21:10:40 GMT
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Wind the lower spring platforms down by however much you want to lower the front end if you have room, keep an eye up top to make sure you're not getting too close the bump stops or it'll drive like a dog.
The stiff shocks won't make any difference to the ride height on the rear.
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Sept 12, 2012 22:01:47 GMT
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Thanks for keeping us updated - I've followed every post.
You make things look so easy - I know they aren't, but there is a lot to be learned by following what you do! A lot can be learned about preparing the work area (IE tipping the van over) that can make an absolute nightmare of a job into something workable. Even with that in mind, you've done a bloody brilliant job on loads of really awkward repairs!
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2012 22:02:54 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 12, 2012 8:56:04 GMT
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The photo is a bit misleading - when you compare them to the size of the wheel adapter they don't look a lot bigger than the 130mm pcd!
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Sept 12, 2012 8:48:08 GMT
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Just measured the old ones at 250mm from the centre eye to the top of the body, the new ones are probably 40mm shorter (they're on the van now and you can't really get a tape in to measure them)
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2012 8:48:45 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 12, 2012 7:54:35 GMT
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Yesterday I fitted the front pair out of the new shocks I got from Busfest. I was running standard shocks and they are too long and too soft - The new ones are only cheapies but they have made the van ride a lot better: Depressingly I noticed that my front tyres are almost dead after 1200 miles. Like a nobhead I put off getting the tracking done for too long until I forgot that it even needed doing. £100 of tyres curse word up the wall!
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Sept 11, 2012 20:33:32 GMT
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Love this thread. I am in the process of something similar (if not a bit dafter). I am converting a T3 Syncro Ambulance into a camper and fitting an AGG like you. I don't like the Mk3 dash so am opting to go with the digi dash from a Mk2 Astra GTE. This arrived with speedo transducer yesterday and the self test and speedo work (I ran it with a battery drill on the cable end!). My problem now is matching a universal transducer which I have to use as the Syncro has a unique gearbox fitting for the cable). The transducer cuts into the old cable and sends a pulsed signal to the dash. The issue is matching the pulse rate to the dash with the variation of transducer signal and wheel/tyre size in order to make it accurate. Any advice? SOrry for the delay in replying, I missed your post completely (I was at vanbusfest) I made a device to convert the pulse rates for a pal - it worked on the bench fine but in practice he says it's not that great - I think I need to fine tune the way it reads the frequency. There's a bloke in germany selling off the shelf doofers that work (have a look on the brick yard) for about 80 euros or something, if not ask me in a few months and I might have got one sorted!
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Sept 11, 2012 20:03:40 GMT
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its fine, but normal council pop is just as good and comes out of the tap!
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Sept 11, 2012 16:57:26 GMT
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Cellulose paint thinners (or 2k thinners) will make that stuff wipe off dead easy. Available off eBay or from your local paint supply place for about £10 for a 5l tin or less in bulk (£21 for a 25l jug)
Also dead handy to have around the shop - Celly thinners is a lot more fierce and will dissolve more things (including stuff you don't want to dissolve) but 2k thinners won't evaporate if you leave the lid off and it's "fairly" safe to use on most plastics.
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Sept 11, 2012 14:04:17 GMT
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I build a golf 1.9 (1Y) engine in my T25 (camper but using it daily). So how does it work on veg oil? does it work with this diesel pump? Apparently 1y engines are absolutely ideal for Veg Oil.
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Sept 10, 2012 20:30:11 GMT
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If you can buy it at anywhere less than £1000 you'll very comfortably make your money back breaking it if it does turn out beyond fixing providing the interior is anywhere near usable. I saw a really rough westy sink/fridge unit go for £500 on ebay, and it was really curse word!)
That said T25s generally rust in annoying cosmetic places that are hard to fix properly (seams) rather than structural stuff, so if you are happy driving round in something looking a bit rough then just bodge it up and use it for a few years til it really is buggered, then break it and sell the parts for even more.
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2012 20:33:09 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 4, 2012 19:19:20 GMT
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I remember some renault wheels having a fairly wide taper, are you sure the bolts are seating on the wheel and not pulling too far through the wheel and bottoming out on the hub before it clamps the wheel tight?
Also, are the center bores correct?? If not, and you aren't careful when bolting the wheel on in the first place (tighten the bolts in stages, diagonally like you should anyway) you can end up with the wheel not quite sat centrally, and I suppose it could perhaps come loose because of this.
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2012 19:21:36 GMT by cobblers
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Sept 3, 2012 20:37:44 GMT
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That's pretty much how people do the toner transfer PCB etch stuff. I'd probably lob a coat of lacquer over it if it's going to see much wear.
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