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Description (including Price) Ford Anglia 105E diff 4.44 ratio (teeth counted and verified) Taken from my estate which showed an unconfirmed 64,000 miles. Removed as i've fitted a 3.9 diff now surplas to requirments. £100 + £20 postage Pics:     Location: Wakefield West Yorkshire (5mins from jct 40 M1) Contact details: Please PM also Description (including Price) set of 5 rostyle wheels inc centre caps taken from a 1968 Ford Cortina Mk2 1600E 1 painted rest chrome £50 Pics:     Location: Wakefield West Yorkshire 5 mins from jct 40 M1 Contact details:Please PM |
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Dec 29, 2009 16:34:32 GMT
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Great stuff, another old Ford weldathon. Looking forward to plenty of pics... ;D Cheers oldbus, somehow I cant see me working at the same pace as you did with the Capri :-) Anyways time for another update Fitted the 'A' post. This took twice as long as expected as expressed steel were not able to make / deliver an a post for 12 months !! anyways Ken B from 105speed came to the rescue with a second hand 'a' post and flitch. I spent the best part of 4 hours unpicking all the parts, cleaning em up, repairing em even before I started to weld em on. I forgot to put the spacers in -- doh so i'm cutting some tube behind the hinges to cure the problem.. I'll let the pictures do the talking.. Cut the outer skin off and the inner frame was spot on - note the braces to support the dash    tried door on and lined up spot on - well chuffed  Outer skin on  Sorry for crappy picture - poor light in workshop  A quick lick of paint and put suspension back in  Onto the rad panel - this was reason why I wanted engine crossmember in to get correct spacing for crossmember.  Crossmember fitted - also started to fill inner wings :-)  And finally now some strength in the panel - trial fitted the engine  Only resting on wood at the moment but fits with no mods to transmission tunnel or bulkhead (yet) I plan to move it back maybe another inch but thats it for now ....    |
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Dec 14, 2009 18:56:40 GMT
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Very nice project ,your getting stuck into it.Are they new wings?expensive?keep the updates coming. Cheers for the comments :-) and yes the wings were expensive, I didn't want to go the cheaper route with fibreglass so opted for the spurrious ones from Expressed steel - but they took an age to be made - but I have em now so on with the project LOL Started work on the N/s inner wing this morning the plan being to finish the n/s and start work on the O/S anyways I had a bit of an accident and slashed my finger big style which rendered is useless. Not wanting to waste the day I started to Nitromors the rest of the paint. So the N/s inner wing is finished and the O/s wing now removed ...  Forgot to take pics when I made the strut finisher off but you get the idea ?? I've also drilled a hole in the inner wing for the lighting loom and welded tags on the inner wing for the wires to feed through. Don't want the wires in the engine bay.  All done :-)  Then started nitromors on the engine bay - it had been painted with stone chip (nice) but looks 10 times better now. And I also removed the seal rail for the bonnet as it was rusting behind. they never fitted this to later ones so will not replace it..    A few layers on the roof !!  Then cut the o/s wing off - oh dear lots to do :wink:     |
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Nov 29, 2009 20:29:50 GMT
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Well here we go again the next update. Started by finishing the lower 'A' post off. Took some pictures with me of a previous Anglia I restored so that I could get the profile right. (or as right as I could) Still not fitted the sill yet as i'm trying to keep as much metal on as possible (no easy feet with this car) But we're getting there. So as we left it last time  New panel made up  New panel welded in - job done. Might need some trimming when I fit the inner sill but the basic shape is there now.  Now that the 'A' post had some strength back in it it was time to work on the upper inner wing and strut tower. But as the builders tressle supporting the car was at the front I needed this moving so as not to distort the car. Plus I needed it lower. So dropped onto axle stands and off we go again. The inner wing was quite rotton as the joint with the bulkhead and had various plates tacked on top of each other. No option but to cut it all away. Before I did though I welded a new plate at the top for at least some support. !!   New plate welded in and removed horn bracket etc while I was at it.  Shot from inside inner wing showing plate welded into the wheelhouse section.  I tried to make this plate as one but too difficult with the tools I had so made in two sections. tried to recreate the pressings best I could.  Bulkhead section butt welded in place. I'm gonna need to mod this area when the engine is trial fitted but thats a long way off as I need the engine bay strong before I start lifting that in so the bulkhead panel lower section will be left for now as I think i'll need to mod that for the Nissans exhaust.  New wing support rail made up using the old inner wing and straight edge for guidence. I also trial fitted the wing to make sure ok (which it was)  Forgot to take a shot of inner wing must have been getting tired - long day but thats all welded in place  All thats left to do on the N/S inner wing is finish round the strut top. Small plate on the upper 'a' post and sort the hinge captive bolts out. Weld some studs on the inner wings for the wiring (i'm running wires down between the wing and inner wing. Keeping the bulkhead clear) Bit of cleaning up and get some paint on it. So next time I go (50 mile round trip for me !!) I'll finish the inner wing and start on the O/S which will probably be just as bad :smile: |
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Nov 29, 2009 17:59:09 GMT
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It's a Nissan Silvia CA18ET engine (single over head cam) I went for this option due to it already being RWD, from what i've read on the internet it's very tunable and easy to wire in (I hope) Plus it's a little more compact then the CA18DET version (room limited in the Anglia) And yes lots of welding (more pics to post soon as lots more done. Its still the Anglia Axle but i've used the diff from the Cortina - forgot what ratio is in it now (standard is 4:44) I think it's 3:9 now. And yes it should take the power no problems - lots of Anglias out there been modified running standard Axle. I will be fitting an 'A' frame to rear axle from Milton (on order as we speak) And yes my lad (14) is enjoying working on the car - he's a good grafter, he's just finished fully stripping the tailgate for me. He wants a MK1 Fiesta when this is done. He still has plenty of time on the old X Box though mainly racing games  |
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2009 18:00:28 GMT by Anglevan
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Nov 26, 2009 14:30:03 GMT
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I think the standard front ends are the best looking and quite like the grey too. Looking forward to the re-build.  Yes it will be keeping the standard grille assembly (have the chrome trim & correct rear glass seals for those that know !!) Well it's time for a LARGE update so here goes -- My lad has started to get the car bug and he's started to have a go at stripping the dash down – he wants a Mk1 Fiesta but I’ve said he’s got to help me finish this and I’ll help him get a car    The car has been in an accident at some point and has had a door skin fitted to the N/S and lots of 'Gob' in the N/S/R wing so first things first and get all the Gob out :shock:  Panel was quite straight – don’t see a need for all that filler !!  While it was up on stands and the axle out - fitted the rear diff out of the Cortina and started to strip it ready to put the Cortina rear brakes on but hit a problem (more on that later)  I was working in my garage however we have a young baby and neighbours who like to moan a bit and I just couldn't relax working on the car. I was always thinking about others around me which started to pee me off. It got to the stage where I was just going to break the car up and scrap it however a very good friend of mine came to the rescue. He has a very large barn enough for numerous cars. He agreed to take the car over there and allow me to work on it when I wanted. I didn't want to take advantage so agreed to go over Saturdays only. BIG advantage is that I can use grinder whenever I want - nice big power tools there no neighbours to upset. So car gets the axles back in it and shipped to my mates place (hence why axle was not finished   In it's new home -- and loads of room to work on it :smile:  So I agree to go over last saturday at 7am and have a full day on it finishing at 7pm inner wing plated  New second plate made and ready to weld in   oopss  new plate made up  all welded in  A post grot cut out - note brace bar   I couldnt remember the shape of this so had to leave this - I rebuilt an Anglia a while back and i've lots of pictures of this area so gonna take up so that I can finish this off  Started on the upper wing rail - the car had lots of plates on and would have passed an MOT but the quality was very poor so no option but to cut it all out and start again.    Well thats about it - rang out of time - but pleased with the results. After we'd got this done it was then off to pick an engine up. My original plan was to fit a crossflow temp with the option to go Toyota route but money has been an issue. I knew i'd be dissapointed with the crossflow so i'm going to sell that 'as is' and a friend of a friend offered me this - I thought what the eck. The only bits that were missing were a prop and ecu however I stumbled on these FOC yesterday so only need a manual fly wheel (engine was on a auto car originally) The transmission tunnel and bulkhead will need modifying but what the eck it was never gonna be a minter !!! Only problem I can see is the position of the gear lever but the i'll fit and see how it goes. Couldn't believe how light the box was - much lighter than the standard 997 lump...   |
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Last Edit: Nov 26, 2009 14:33:13 GMT by Anglevan
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Nov 25, 2009 17:56:11 GMT
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Thats the inner wing that the engine cradle bolts to. It's basically 2 skins on the outside both had rotted then some previous 'restorer' just welded a plate over the top - so it's just all the corroded metal sat in the chassis leg - good eh.
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Nov 25, 2009 16:41:13 GMT
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Nov 25, 2009 15:39:09 GMT
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I'm in the process of fitting a CA18et in a Ford Anglia - went this route due to costs and size of unit - fits in Anglia very nice. (twin cam would have drowned the engine bay LOL)
Managed to find a fair bit of info on the net regarding the install - i'm not at the stage of wiring in yet but from what i've found out theres plenty of help on offer.
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Nov 25, 2009 15:34:33 GMT
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Last Edit: Mar 22, 2011 20:46:00 GMT by Anglevan
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Oct 21, 2009 20:49:33 GMT
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It puzzles me why you cant convert an estate to a van when so many vans out there are converted hatchbacks. IE Clio / Punto are just hatchbacks and they remove the glass and fit in blanks (that are just clipped in)
A friend of mine bought a Clio van, put windows in the back and told DVLA - the hoops he had to jump through to get a V5C was amazing to the point of being farsical - he now has a V5c and he didnt need any official checks.
Many moons ago I used to work for MItsubishi and they never imported a van so they converted the estates to vans by paneling the side panels in and removing the interior - that was it. Isuzu did the same with the Trooper and Land rover with the Discovery (They were converted at BMW Thorne Doncaster)
Now i'm a trained panel beater - got all my city and guilds etc (not in the trade now) but as far as paperwork goes I suppose in the eyes of the the authorities i'd be deemed a proffesional ?? I don't own a bodyshop and i don't repair cars any more but I have an Anglia Estate that I'd like to turn into a van - now you look in original press release paperwork and Ford did this exact conversion by just panneling the side ... (they still left the seats in though) I suppose i'm going to have to jump through hoops as well !! The cars not been on the road for 12 years so if I suddenly put it on the road after all the graft and then notify changes - is it just pot luck what happens ??
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Sept 21, 2009 16:26:10 GMT
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it was reatured in practical classics in 91 thanks for the picture,ive got the chrome stripes but now decided yet as I don't want to drill the bodywork,i might try and stick them back on,the smiths stick on heated screen is long gone ! don't suppose you have any more from the show? as to modifing it,i had a saloon which was stock and I gradually changed it,milton suspension 1500Gt engine 2000e box and lotus steels I'm still thinking I might have to keep this one stock,its even running a dynamo and positive earth still it seems a shame to do too much to it ill take a few more tonight and some of the lovely interior,its the nicest inside of any ive ever owned I've plenty of pics from the show just not sure if your estate is in them - i'll have a look. As for the side strips - did they weld the holes or just fill them in ?? there not that bad a job to fit (just use masking tape as a guide and a drill depth gauge) IMO your wasting your time trying to stick the originals on .. You could try that plastic chrome strip, If fitted right and straight it don't look bad I had a 2 tone deluxe and couldn't find the middle strips in the end I used that stuff and no one picked up on it. Personally i'd just leave em off... As for mods it's your car do what suits ...  The estates seem to have just dissapeared and as they never made that many in comparison to the saloon it's good to see a mint original one .. Did I hear somewhere that there is less estates known to the club than the van ?? |
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Sept 21, 2009 8:04:48 GMT
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Thought I recognised it and after a nose found this, apicture of the same car taken in the early nineties at an Anglia meet  Looks very tidy now - I must get my 62 estate posted up on here at some point ... |
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Sept 2, 2009 21:49:12 GMT
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For my sins I own pretty much 80% of what you have listed new in box and built / runners. I'm just rebuilding a Mountaineer (like the Bruiser with the 3 speed gearbox) (I have over 70  ) bit of useless information but that scan of the Subaru Brat box art was taken from my New in box kit !! I knew the lad that did them. My favourite box art is the Tamiya Frog - I'll always be a big kid at heart LOL |
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Jun 27, 2009 13:52:16 GMT
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Much as I hate to say it (or contribute to O/T stuff), 99% of insurance doesn't pay out if the insured was under the influence of drink or drugs. But good luck and dig the russian cheerleader. (Best get some car pics in people!) Insurance companys are not allowed to do this - even if the vehicle was stolen, if the car had insurance they will pay out for the TP vehicle. The only time they wont pay out is if it's not insured. It dosn't matter that they were drunk. Also even though they were drunk they can still claim on there own insurance. You can also claim if they didnt have insurance but it's a long drawn out affair and you get about 75% settlement. If you have any problems send me a PM |
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Jun 15, 2009 15:59:25 GMT
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 These are 2 very very rare Anglia estates as they are the standard or fleet versions. They were owned by the same charity / company (WRVS) I owned SMK938F which was based in West Yorkshire (originally found in Scotland) This picture was taken in Manchester in the mid 90's. This was not set up - I turned up to collect some parts and saw this estate. I sold the estate in the late nineties (had a 1500GT engine in it) last I heard (last year) is that it's in Durham area. Also SMK937F was sold on ebay a few years back again in Durham area. SMK***F was seen on a lot of London buses / London transport vehicles. Of all the cars i've owned I have regretted selling that one the most :-( Especially as the standard estate is said to down to single figures in amount left.. |
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No they wont - why should they? the deal is if you go and buy a new car. I know a person who argued this with an owner of a Citroen ZX. Car was a write off but still driveable. They argued the value at £2000 but had no plans to buy a new vehicle. The insurance company paid 'market value' as per the policy terms (i think it was £500) and let them keep the car - they told the owner as it's still mot'd to take it down to the dealer and they should still get the £2000 scrapage (+ the £500 for the car) guess what ?? they didnt buy a new car  I suppose if you proved you were in the process of buying a new car or about to I don't see why the insurance company cant provide a letter to advise authoritys that it's scrapped or why couldnt they deliver the smashed car to the dealership but to just get the £2000 is not applicable until you sign the order for a brand new car |
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If it has to be one picture this is all your gonna get This about sums up the old/ retro car scene for me. Being able to transform a rusty heap into somat special.. I'll let you decide what it is |
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Yeah bonded screens are really easy to do the biggest problem is the seal round the screen.
some just prise out / some are clipped on (as with the BMW E34) / some are bonded with the screen and some are attached to the screen itself.
You will damage the seal if you try and do it with this attached.
I'd see if VW supply the seal seperatly and order one if they do (some seals act as a spacer as well as prevent wind noise)
If you get an actual screen fitting kit for the model you will find that it may come with the correct depth spacers / wire to cut out and the correct cut nozzle. BMW do a very good kit and was about £60 but aint done one in a while.
Firstly remove the seal and inner a post trims (might need to pull headlining down) then using mole grips or pliers force the wire (mig wire will do or serated wire) through the gap into the cab area be prepared for it to snap a few times.
Also have a piece of metal (4"x4" should do) and cover with tape - use this to protect the dash area. Get a helper one on inside and one on outside attach the mole grips to each end of the wire and go back and forth in a cutting action. Work you way round the screen (watching the corners cause there can be a lot of bonding their) it's hard to explain but the person inside needs to move the wire parrall to the screen itself and on the outside at 90 degress angle to screen.
Try not to lever the screen anywhere - it will crack especially if any minor stone chips in the glass.
When removed clean excess glue from the aperture - touch up any damaged paint.
Some bonding glues (Sikaflex is the best) need heat to work so read the instructions - i've placed em in an oven for 10 minutes first before use - helps them cure and easier to use. On a big screen like that you will probably need 2 tubes.
If you can get hold of some dent suckers attach these to the outside of the screen (to help fit glass in aperture) cut a 'V' in the nozzle (at least 1/2" deep - some will be more you will have to check the thickness of the glue) work round the screen with a caulking gun (the glue is really hard to push out so an air caulking gun would be ideal) Make sure no high spots / gaps etc (you can play a bit with the bead before you attach. But you have to work quick.
When ready with a helper lift the screen into the aperature - fitting to the roof and then let it drop onto the scuttle. attach tape to the top of the screen to roof (stops it sliding down) and make sure the screen fits nice and flush to the adjacent panels - you can use a ratchet strap to gentle push screen down (not too much though just enough to hold it ..
Any problems let me know
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