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Fiesta did have enough charge and after a bit of use has sorted its self out, other than that I've done little more than drive the cars, hopefully that will change now, yesterday I took voluntary early retirement. First will be to replace all the fuel lines, check the injectors and fit a new ECM and fan hub to the range Rover. Then new seat covers timing belt and AC condensor/ drier/ hoses to the mx5.
Also got 2 bathrooms and a kitchen to fit this summer plus my Daughter is just buying a house, I might need to go back to work for a rest!
That said I'm currently sitting in the car park of Kings Lynn hospital after the Father in law sat in the sun all day with no hat.....
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I'd start by confirming the ignition is OK, one of those lights that goes in the plug lead or a timing light on each spark plug, if that's ok check for air leaks on the induction side or a blocked exhaust and valve clearances, after that take a look at the carb and fuel delivery.
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I've always vasalined and then primed mine, 2 bar is fine for priming your really just looking to get oil around everything, the real answer is what you get when it's running, at idle they run fine with less than 10 psi, idealy should be up at around 35-40 above 1500rpm when hot.
The original front cover the gears run in is alloy so I can't see why an alloy spacer would be a problem.(the gears only contact each other not the case on the sides).
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Apr 29, 2024 21:34:48 GMT
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Without knowing what if any thing it's coated with it's difficult to know what to do.
On both our Minor an Elan I blanked off the original bottom tubes and added a dip tube to the gauge sender with a filter on the end filter keeps large pieces of muck out and it's easy to remove and clean, do need a fuel pump that will suck it up though.
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I'm waiting to see how you re-create the original splodges of sealer around them in steel now!
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Apr 26, 2024 19:32:42 GMT
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Just watched the latest one with the meteor powered SD1, worth a watch.
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Apr 26, 2024 19:27:21 GMT
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brilliant result.
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Apr 25, 2024 19:19:07 GMT
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Stange you've had so many problems, I've found them (mine have all been 3.5's) to be reliable, the main weaknesses being oil leaks from all sorts of places and a propensity to chew up cams on modern oils.
That said I did have one that had had a trauma (looked like it had hydrauliced) that was never right.
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Apr 25, 2024 12:16:47 GMT
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I'd paint it with epoxy and see what it looks like, you can fill over epoxy and even use it as a primer filler, (hard work but means you have no hydroscopic layers which is a real benefit on composite panels.)
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Apr 25, 2024 11:49:20 GMT
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For a light car a remote servo on the front circuit only works well, but a simpler option which gives some warning of an issue is to fit a float in the cap of the reservoir and a warning light. (Car builders solutuons sell the parts).
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Apr 24, 2024 15:14:31 GMT
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The dent in it's aelf probably wouldn't be an issue, I'd be worried it's distorted the piston though, If you can get the sump off in situ it's a fairly simple task to pop the piston and rod out.
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I agree with darkspeed, this is not a prop for a couple of hours of filming it is a vehicle that is to be used on public roads and as given back to Andy it's a danger to him, his passengers and other road users.
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if it's not anywhere in the rocker cover the only place it's either gome down the oil drain to the sump or the push rods to the valley, hopefully you will find it when you pull the head and take the valley gasket off.
Should it even have exhaust valve stem seals? Only the later ones had them, I'd not have fitted them on something like this, a bit of oil will prevent the valves seizing in the guides...
I am suprised the valve has broken though usually the push rod bends.
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2024 9:39:19 GMT by kevins
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Apr 23, 2024 20:29:56 GMT
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You can now get adhesive squirty foam which is used for dry lining, wall panels etc.
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Apr 23, 2024 16:57:49 GMT
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is the valve seized in the guide?
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2024 16:57:59 GMT by kevins
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Apr 22, 2024 12:50:22 GMT
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I've got something very similar to do this summer (2010 fiesta) my plan is clean it all back with wire wheel or similar, treat with converter then go over it with something like Bilt hamber UB, I use a 50 50 mixture of clean engine oil and waxoyl in box sections, its preseved a TR7 for the last 30 years.
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Apr 21, 2024 13:20:12 GMT
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I do wonder wheather it's really worth it though, my 3.5 injected rv8 with a fairly new zf4hp (so lock up actually works) will do around 20mpg on a run (at the speed of the trucks), I can't see even a modern V8 doing more than mid 20's with the housebrick aerodynamics. A 3.9 on the later hotwire should be even better. Mine is also LPG and even only being able to get it occasionaly noticibly helps.
Fuel economy is pretty grim on short joirneys but I think a lot of that is losses in the transfer box and axles,(the engine warms up pretty quickly) might try some multigrade gear oil one day.
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Apr 21, 2024 13:02:55 GMT
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that looks very sound, looking forward to more updates.
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Apr 21, 2024 12:55:39 GMT
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from the current on line manual. specificaly mentions no welding repairs on steering column.
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you could just use a ballast resistor on the original motor.
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