stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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That spec is oddly written. On older engines I tend to aim for one thou of clearance per inch of journal as a maximum, so you'd be at 2 to 2.5 thou (.050-.065mm roughly) on a 60mm journal. It'd work at just over 3 thou clearance (0.081mm) but it'd be enough to show a noticeable drop in oil pressure when hot in my experience.
Fuel contamination of oil is the number 1 cause of engine failure that I see, so the fuel pump problems seems like a good diagnosis of the root cause of the damage you've experienced.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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If you're at the point of it been ready to fire up I'd just run it and see what happens. Won't hurt anything.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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At least you can be safe in the knowledge that now you've done all that sanding you will never ever ever get a flat tyre in the car ever again and therefore will never get to see your fantastic work.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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This is awesome.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 25, 2024 19:11:07 GMT
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I've not done lots of drag racing but I've gone faster than most. I went from running a fastest of 11.7 about 10 years ago to jumping in works Mustang and running 7.0 at 197mph with literally no test runs or check out passes or anything. Only people I've ever found that think driving a drag car is hard is drag racers. We build tons and tons of drag racing engines, including one for (what was, for a long time) the fastest Outlaw Anglia in the world and the owner/driver of that barely used it because it was boring. I can see the fun of the set up and trying to make the car faster, but the driving bit is dull.
I didn't realise you were planning on racing it competitively, thought it was just for seeing how fast you could go in a Elan. Obviously RT counts in a race.
To me it just seems like a whole lot of effort and cost to stick a big concrete track down, have it ground etc when the "prep" isn't a one time thing. You'd have to prep it every time wanted to use it which just seems like a massive ball ache, plus the safety aspect of doing full chat launches on your own.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 24, 2024 20:03:32 GMT
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Sorry to be a negative nelly but it seems like a lot of effort for something that doesn't seem like it'd be of much benefit from a racing standpoint. Drag racing is literally the easiest Motorsport in the world, by an absolute mile, from a "racing from point A to point B" drivers perspective. Slowly roll up till top yellow lights, creep till 2nd yellow lights, wait for green, go. Reaction time doesn't affect ET so you can just go when you want.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Odd thing to mention when other than the engine there isn't any information about the car in the advert.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 20, 2024 18:46:10 GMT
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I wouldn't run a M113 on LPG, done quite a few rebuilds of them on gas and it doesn't do well for them, same as most "modern" engine designs. On petrol they're solid engines though.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 15, 2024 17:25:43 GMT
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I'm having a hiatus from modifying cars I think. I bought a load of bits to do daft stuff with the Carlton for the Weekender, but I think because of the weather I've got absolutely no motivation to do any of it. I'm gonna spend the rest of the year sorting out the front garden and building a great big shed in the back garden instead so my wife and kids can have some space for their job/hobbies, which means all the stuff related to that can move out of the house.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 15, 2024 12:06:40 GMT
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I think the positive to take from this is at least the guy has people who know what they're looking at, and have taken the car off the road before it did the old metal to tarmac nosedive as the shocks snapped.
How close is the cross member to the sump? Can't tell in the pics but it almost looks like they've mounted the whole lot too low compared to the chassis.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 13, 2024 17:56:02 GMT
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 10, 2024 22:14:31 GMT
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That oil pump looks well past the newness wearing off stage. Did you check for side to side play of the shafts in the housings?
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I see that you wrote "I believe the bearings are bimetallic (ali on steel) so there should be no copper to find or see in the oil". I have never heard of this as I believe bearing shells are a steel backing with a copper layer then a coating of (grey) white metal or "bearing" metal (which is a lead/tin etc alloy). Hence any copper in the oil indicates that the bearing metal has worn away. It depends on what's in it basically. A lot of OEM's use copper/bronze layers still, but some don't,and most aftermarket bearings don't. Or they use copper in one half and not in the other.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Shame about the rust-buster, though talking of flash rusting I had a customer that really insisted that I must talk to him about his shiny new aluminium con rod measurements just after I'd steam cleaned his shiny new freshly machined block, but before I had chance to dry it off, despite my protestations that he should wait 10 minutes for me to get it dry and stop it going rusty. He's now very sad that his shiny new freshly machined block is a lovely not very shiny light brown colour and that unless he pays for me to freshly machine his freshly machined block that's the way it's going to stay.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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As above - fine alloy glitter is usually something catching a housing. Timing chains catching something usually cause glitter that looks like actual glitter. Bearing damage is generally a bit chunkier like swarf. Only other thing that causes fine glitter is when it's wearing the thrust bearings away, but it's not very common.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I do love the later trucks, mainly because of Cannonball's in Hot Rod.
The early ones are ugly but cool. Almost look like a COE that's been stretched into a wormhole.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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It's the only way meets like this are gonna keep going now. Keeping the idiots away is difficult though.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I'm not gonna sleep now, 2nd one was easy but can't think what the first one is.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I etch them myself, but when I was bored I actually did a test of the "pop marking can distort a con rod" thing a few years ago, and the forces needed to actually distort the cap were ridiculous, more or less swinging a standard hammer as hard as I could.
Also I've had to rebuild 2 engines that had oil starvation on one bearing due to plastigauge partially blocking the oil hole. It "should" dissolve in warm oil, but apparently sometimes it doesn't dissolve fast enough.
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