sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Mar 18, 2014 21:26:51 GMT
|
Good choice I have an early cd model tucked away being restored. A lot of good and relevant advice already in the thread. Really bad for rot in the rear chassis legs and spring mounts which are not too difficult to replace but the repair panels are becoming very difficult to source. Front footwells can rot through, bulkheads can rot at bottom due to sound deadening retaining water and on power steering models the rack mounts can split, and expect wheel arches and sills to be crusty but panels are easy and cheap to find and replace. Trim is getting hard to find but not impossible and mechanically they are pretty strong and easy to work on as necessary. Also shared a lot of mechanicals with later cavaliers and astras so parts are plentiful. In my opinion bodywork and underside is more important than the spec or engine. I'd have a solid 1.3L over a rotten calibre or 130 anytime. Early cars built in Belgium seem to age better than the later Luton models but are not without their rust issues. Check out www.mk2cav.com
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 18, 2014 22:04:21 GMT by sal
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Feb 28, 2014 15:01:22 GMT
|
Part number carried over and reused after branding changed from Datsun to Nissan possibly?
From the search results it looks to be common to various mid 80's Datsun models.
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Feb 28, 2014 12:28:52 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 12:21:05 GMT
|
Ital estate My old fella had an Ital estate in a similar shade of red to this. TVK 738Y and it was by the far the most awful, horrendous, hideous, unreliable heap of s@&t that I have ever encountered. I still intend on buying one tho
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 25, 2014 12:22:17 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Feb 24, 2014 21:04:09 GMT
|
Very nice Chevette you have there. I've never actually seen one on a B plate before so this must be a very rare old thing indeed.
Good luck with it.
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Feb 23, 2014 22:41:52 GMT
|
From memory I think the 16v red top is around 150kg so the seh at a guess 130 ish?
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
|
That machine shouldn't cause you any problems. I've go a similar Clarke model and it copes with welding old vauxhalls nicely.
Definitely go for a large bottle of argon mix it makes a big difference. I used a couple of disposables for practice when I first got it and got reasonable results but with a "proper" set up it was a lot easier to work with and the welds were a lot neater.
Best of luck and enjoy
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
|
Independent rear suspension. Must try harder! Epic Fail lol Tho to be fair I found thread quite amusing
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 1, 2014 10:52:46 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
|
As rich has said the fitting kit is not essential but you may find the warning light stays on after you replace pads so you may need to buy a new sensor or you may be able to join the wires at the sensor and by pass it.
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 1, 2014 10:43:12 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Jan 25, 2014 17:04:24 GMT
|
I think that vauxhall are 4x100 pcd if that's of any use to you.
Just had look on eBay and they are 185 or 195's. only thing small enough are space savers which isn't the best solution.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 25, 2014 17:07:44 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Jan 10, 2014 23:30:26 GMT
|
Hi and welcome to RR. Might seem a silly question but exactly what colour is it?. It looks to be the same colour as my cavalier of a similar age which would make it anthracite possibly? Stunning car you have there opelnut. Would love to see more photos of it.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 10, 2014 23:32:05 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 7, 2014 9:02:30 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 31, 2013 20:11:34 GMT
|
My garage is about the same size just a bit longer - 25'. To be honest it's big enough if you keep it tidy but if you have clutter lying around it gets difficult. I've got a few racks / shelving that cost about £30 and are great for keeping things tidy. Plenty of shelves on walls and under work bench if you build one and as said above utilise roof space if you can. If your organised you'll have enough space
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 20:30:03 GMT
|
As above agree with colnerov.
Check the connections are all tight and undamaged. The eyelets or spade connectors can break off the main wire on starter end and the bolts that hold the starter need to be tight as they act as an earth.
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 29, 2013 21:07:17 GMT
|
Sounds like starter issue but its not necessarily knackered. Check the bolts on starter are tight as they earth it to the block. Also check the main wire from battery to starter is still attached and not loose or broken.
Have you tried to push start it? If you've put jump leads on and it hasn't started its not likely to be an issue with a flat battery.
I've not done an Isuzu starter but have done a few petrol cavaliers and they were three bolts to replace. Access from underneath and easy enough.
You can also bench test it easy enough off the car. Stick it in vice and connect it up to jump leads to see if it spins up.
Hope that helps.
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 27, 2013 15:52:19 GMT
|
Grifterkid and Generally thanks for comments. I've had car since around October but not got started on it yet properly. When I do I will get build thread up along with the one on mk2 site. It won't be a quick project and I'm aiming for standard original spec as its a pretty early car and would be a shame to mess around with it too much
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 27, 2013 10:30:34 GMT
|
the cav is almost a spit of my old one...fantastic motors wish I had one...sadly tooooo many motors sigh I commented on the cavalier earlier in the thread as I went to view but never bought it. Well I went back and it's now tucked away in my workshop for a restoration. Paint is completely shot on all panels and it needs 4 doors, arches and sills but underneath is like a new car and very solid. Interior is very good and all trim etc is there so has the makings of a nice early mk2
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 27, 2013 10:33:18 GMT by sal
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 21, 2013 17:12:55 GMT
|
I'm in Scotland so not exactly local The more I think about the carb it's just going to be another headache and I'll still have the original problem to figure out. I'll have another look and see what I can find
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 21, 2013 13:46:31 GMT
|
Do you know what part of the fuel pump relay is blowing? It has a couple of functions. If its the fuel pump output that's going then most likely is a faulty fuel pump or wiring, rather than anything in the engine/loom Easy way to check, pull the power wire off the fuel pump (and wrap it for safety) run a new wire with a fuse from the battery to the pump and start the car If the fuse blows your issue is at the pump, if it doesn't and the relay is also ok then its most likely the wiring from relay to pump So if its the fuse it could be the pump or the earth wire to the shell, so check/change the earth and try again. If it still blows the fuse get a replacement pump If the pump doesn't blow the fuse but the relay still dies you need to dig into the loom and look for breaks, or change the loom. Hi manta sport. It's the terminal that is wired directly to positive of battery that's melting. With 12v applied to relay it still actuates but no continuity across the fuel pump output wire and the 12v input. Fuel pump runs if I bridge the terminals in relay harness. Thanks for your advice.
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Dec 21, 2013 13:41:20 GMT
|
Thanks for all the advice it's greatly appreciated Long term I'll get the injection sorted but carb was a means of getting it mobile whilst I work on it. It needs a fair bit of welding and full respray so it isn't going to be a quick turnaround. Having read the replies here I think I'll leave the idea of carbing the 1.8 engine. There's probably easier ways if I really need to move the car. Steve. Yes I do have a few bits lying around lol. Thanks for offer I'll be in touch if I need anything after I get a chance to dig a bit deeper if that's ok?
|
|
|
|
|