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Sept 25, 2021 17:24:00 GMT
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Keeping it dry inside would be helpful. I guess that's one benefit of having the compressor draw air from inside, it will dram any damp air out where it can be caught in the water trap.
I'm hoping the fact mine will be alot bigger than the compressor will help with things. I may be wrong, but my gut feeling is the smaller the box around the compressor, the harder it will be to maintain conditions inside the box.
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Sept 25, 2021 13:54:08 GMT
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I was thinking of using a "t" on the side of the box , the straight bit going into the floor to mount the pipe and up with the hat on , Makes sense. If I had a suitable outside wall, I would too. But I don't, so would have to go through the roof. Probably have all the stuff needed, even if an 8" flue and a proper roof mounting collar is a little overkill 😂
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Sept 25, 2021 13:48:46 GMT
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As it sits now There is a note in the paperwork that says this is 2.45 fad, which seems to be about 4cfm. I was a little unhappy about that untill I noticed that's at 150psi. I read that cam sort of half with double the psi (but not quite, more complicated than that). So seems this will probably do everything I need of it. I'll find out soon enough though.
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Sept 25, 2021 13:41:59 GMT
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Bit of an update on this. I cleaned the receiver out as well as I could and ha e decided it's fine. It's stupid thick walled and had no serious rust. I cleaned everything else down and have been looking at how I want to connect it all up. Pump outlet went from 1/2, reduced to 3/8, terminating at 1/4 at the receiver.
I have added a 1/2 check valve and am running it 1/2 all the way. I've also swapped in my old condor pressure switch as it has an unloader valve. The honeywell will go on my hydrovane as the fine adjustable differential will help alot there and the hydrovane doesn't need an unloader.
So, I just need some nylon pipe for the unloader, a 1/4 hose for the pressure switch and a 1/2 hose for the link.
I visited a local compressor shop who were exceedingly helpful! The man seemed very interested and didn't mind giving up 20 mins of national sales business to go through the stores, explaining fittings, to some random guy bodging a 70s compressor back together. Pennine pneumatics, if you need somewhere good. He said just do whatnot want and he will sort out linking it all together.
I'm going to make a jig to hold the valve block, unloader, and head, all in the right place then take it down and get some hoses made so it's nice and neat.
I may, if I'm feeling particularly energetic, at some point, repair t it all and zinc plate all the fasteners. If I do that, I may even ha e the receiver professionally cleaned, internally treated and hydrogenated. I'd have to be feeling a little frivolous for that though!
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Last Edit: Sept 25, 2021 13:52:06 GMT by VW
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Sept 25, 2021 12:17:27 GMT
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I could use some insulated twin wall flue as an external air source for the compressor, might quieten it down some too. Also had to check the compressor and mower will both fit! Benefits of a vertical receiver!
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Sept 25, 2021 12:09:46 GMT
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i moved my compressor into our shed, its near next door, although they have never complained, it gets hot in there in the summer, and i am conscious of its noise. I am thinking of doing it simple, get one of those garden plastic storage boxes , lining it with some foam to keep it insulated and help with the noise, and drilling the side to take a drain pipe and take it upwards with a china mans hat on the top... not 100% decided yet, but they are noisey and make vibrations too. Good idea on the pipe for ventilation. I may even be able to 'borrow' some insulated flue from work, hoping having insulation in everything will keep noise down. The other reason I'm going with block is Hoping the mass will help with noise. I may try different linings inside, maybe hanging carpet but 1" away from the walls. Anything to stop vibrations and sound waves from reaching the outside walls. This is all reliant on my new (to me) compressor actually works well enough when I get it back in one piece. I'm going to start on clearing that area this weekend, then maybe order materials next week. I've been owed some money for quite some time, so all the materials for this will be put on the debters builders mech account, so it will basically feel free 😂
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Sept 23, 2021 17:22:25 GMT
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I tried hard to heat damage my old boots, but couldn't, even with a heat gun, on full, 1" away! My old boots started like this... And with heat and a rub with a damp cloth, I ended up with this... It's an old trick, but it really works. Amazingly well! I had only done the center panel here while I was taking comparison photos.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2021 17:23:28 GMT by VW
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Sept 23, 2021 16:58:50 GMT
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The first question that I would ask is, who owns the hedge along the side wall of the garage, as seen in photograph no.1? I am also assuming that your workshop is not built right on your boundary line either? The hedge will not be doing your building any good what so ever, and in opinion needs to be cut back away from the side of the building, in order to allow air and light in. The present situation is only asking to exacerbate problems with damp, and particularly seeping through that wall of the workshop. With regards to the compressor-shed, have you given consideration to build this structure out of timber? In the past I have had similar buildings constructed out of 3" X 2" timber, and then clad with 1/2" plywood, which was cut into strips of 6" (or similar), attached to the framework to look like overlapping boards. Worked very well and other than creosote/or similar, did OK. The structure could be mounted onto a single brick high, dwarf wall, which would also keep rain/etc... out. The hedge is shared and on the boundary. I cut back as far as I could, then built the workshop so id guess the walls are maybe 12" of the boundary. No chance of removing the hedge. I know it's not ideal (I normally cut it back to 2' above the roof and in line with the wall, but I've been slack this year), but it was the best I could do at the time. For the record, and surprisingly on a few levels (No barrier between earth and walls etc) I get no damp issues in this building. None at all! Bare steel won't go rusty, even over winter and I've never seen a single drop of condensation in it. No idea why! Still, it is what it is, and the comlressor shed will be built in exactly the same way, bang up against the hedge. As for building it in timber, it's easier, quicker, cheaper and stronger to do it in block. Edit... There is no ventilation in the building at all (will be soon though) and no insulation over the last 7 years. Roof is being done now though. It has a damp membrane under the floor and a damp course in the walls. Inner walls below ground level were painted with bitumen paint. I've no idea why it's so dry in there! Edit 2... Other end of the garden I have a timber shed, also burried into the hedge. The side in the hedge is the only side that hasn't rotted, 7 years later! Reminds me, I need to replace the bottom boards on the side that's open to the garden! I wonder if the protection it offers from the rain and wind helps as much as the lack of air movement doesn't. Maybe it creates a 6 of one, half a dozen of the other type situation?
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2021 17:12:06 GMT by VW
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Sept 23, 2021 16:40:21 GMT
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Do you think, if I dumped any compressor water into the hedge behind the shed and the flower beds in the garden, I'd end up polluting the ground? It won't be alot, not like it's running every day. I'd be surprised if it runs more than a 100 hours a year.
Edit on this, ive been reading. It's not allowed to just dump this on the ground. Seems I'll either need to collect it, or let it evaporate, or pipe it into the foul drain.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2021 17:01:04 GMT by VW
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Sept 23, 2021 16:11:07 GMT
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Doors will be made exactly the same way I made the main doors so hopefully it will all look ok. If it's not clear from the drawings, I plan on double doors, same as the workshop, so as much of the side opens as possible. The hedge will swallow most of the building up pretty soon anyway 😂.
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Last Edit: Sept 23, 2021 16:12:00 GMT by VW
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Sept 23, 2021 16:09:05 GMT
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About 7 years ago I built this I am now at a stage where I have to be careful with what space I have, ive run out! Not even any cars in it (no access). Not easy to extend at the rear as it's 3 foot down in the ground at that end. I did think about putting another 2 meters on the front but don't really want to restrict access from the side of the house. Still an option though. However, I put a coal bunker and water but here I've never used the coal bunker! So my plan is to use that area to build a compressor shed and somewhere to put the lawn mower. A couple of shelves up top and I'll be able to move alot of house stuff out of the workshop. Can put parts in there too. The base area is 2300mm x 1240mm. I plan to utilize as much as possible, only down side is it will be just a little too big for one 8x4 sheet to do the roof. Quick sketch of the plan I need to check how i did the roof on the garage, ill do this the same but with 3x2 timber. As I've drawn it I don't think the doors will clear the gutter 😂 I plan on just dumping the workshop run off onto the shed roof, then running a gutter on the shed and relocating the water butt at the end. I don't really see a need for a lintel as there is no blockwork above the doors. Frames will be concrete bolted into the walls and door frame will be tied into the roof structure, which in turn is also screwed into the walls. Should be fine right? Also, I'm thinking no piers. Half block returns at the door openings should be enough right? Back wall will be 2250mm long and 10 blocks high. Think it will be ok? The workshop is the only building I've ever built so I'm willing to be told I'm doing things wrong. Workshop is still up though and no cracks in the walls! A few things I'm unsure about though. I was going to build it separate, with a 50mm gap to the workshop that i can put insulation in. I'll join the shed roof to the workshop wall though. This is purely so noise doesn't just go through the wall into the main building. Good idea, or not needed? Every bit of internal space will help! I plan on insulating the roof and the doors purely for noise benefits. I will sit the compressor on a small floating floor insulated from the slab. I also think ill box the compressor in, in its own insulated cupboard, to protect it from lawnmowers and to keep the noise down. But, I'm conscious that heat needs to get out and air needs to get in. Any ideas on that? Air will be piped in copper, probably around the outside of the garage at roof height, then in through the wall in the middle of the garage. That is mainly so the air can cool. I'll put a slight fall on the pipe so any condensing water ends up at the drop before the water trap. I'll have 2 separate air systems when this is done. The filters have auto drains that I'll run through the wall. The 2 receivers and the 2 drops at the regulators will probably have auto drains. Anyone tried any of the cheap ones? I've seen manual float type, which appeal. The timer type, which for some reason I don't like. Or, I am considering putting solenoid valves on them all and running them to one momentary switch that when pressed opens all the drains. I'll dump all the drains straight outside. Also plan on having an internal switch for the compressor in the shed So I haven't got to go out and turn it on. I'll have a second pressure gauge before the reg so I can see what's in the receiver. Both air systems, all regulators, all filters and a switch for all drains will then be in one neat place in the main workshop. The second compressor is tiny, and quiet, so that will live inside. I'm still thinking this all through though, materials may be here in a week or two. If anyone has any ideas, can see any issue with any of this, or spots a better way, feel free to chip in!
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Sept 22, 2021 20:59:08 GMT
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That thing is great!
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Sept 22, 2021 20:47:13 GMT
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I can't read that and not reply, but at the same time I don't know what I want say. The situation is beyond what anyone who hasnt experienced it can comprehend. ☹
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Sept 22, 2021 7:58:49 GMT
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What you want is the proper sandblasting style filter pots. Cost you about 100quid on ebay and you will always be able to get filters for them. Then just buy a basic mask. The only other bits you might need to replace are the plastic visor 'tear offs' but if you get a simple one you van just use some clear acetate for that. I found an old post where you recommended those too, ill look them up. Thanks.
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Sept 21, 2021 18:01:31 GMT
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Silly thought, can you buy several filters when buying the mask and keep them in stock? Or do they have expiry dates/ are rediculously expensive to stop you doing that? As you can probably tell I don't know anything about these! I think they have expiry dates as well as length of use dates, but I'm not 100% sure on that. No one wants to give you that info! I have found that you can get filters for iwata, sata and honeywell though, and I think the honeywell filters are the same as the old devilbiss. Honeywell masks seem to come up cheap quite often too.
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Sept 21, 2021 16:42:48 GMT
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Has anyone got an spare filter elements left since these were discontinued? First stage, coalescing or carbon.
Or even spare plastic parts for first stage element.
Thanks.
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Sept 21, 2021 16:40:15 GMT
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I used a old hot tub air pump well outside of the garage blowing fresh air into 1" pipe which is then connected to a mask, no filters or breathing manky water out the bottom of the compressor to worry about. You could also use cheap air bed pumps (works OK but they don't last for long) or secondary air pumps (robust but need a decent 12V power supply). or probably even a modified old vacuum cleaner. All worth considering, but I have the compressor capability. I also would still need the mask. A set up like you suggest removes the need for a carbon filter though. That does solve the issue of carbon filter obsolescence.
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Sept 21, 2021 14:19:57 GMT
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Had another thought though, any reason not to get either a cheap air mask without a filter, or a used, discontinued good air fed mask. Then, rather than worrying about having a carbon filter in the air supply, supply the mask from the coalescing filter and wear a normal half face respirator, with carbon filters, inside the air fed mask?
That way I can always use the same air respirator and just replace the half face mask (or its inserts).
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Sept 21, 2021 14:17:11 GMT
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Hi, If the compressor is drawing air from outside the spraying area does it need the carbon filter? Colin It's more about filtering out what the compressor adds I think.
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Sept 21, 2021 13:34:36 GMT
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Comlressor has a first stage filter and a 0.01 micron coalescing filter, so it's just the carbon aspect I'm missing.
Need to find something with replacement filter back up!
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