1992 Jaguar XJ40 SuperTurboDiesel

Considering the full fat balloon sized ,nay zeppelin sized ,gobs of torque from this sot of engine , i am amazed a lt77 would even consider not shedding its teeth/bearings,when strapped onto the back of one.

Don't know how many times I've said the same thing, but I also include the accountants as well!

Here's another option from the Landy world. You can get adapter plates to mate the BMW 6-speed to an LT230 transfer box, which AFAIK has the same bolt pattern and attachments as the RWD R380/LT77 tailshaft. So it could go M57->BMW 6-speed->adapter->R380 tailhousing->Jag prop.

Although at that point it's probably less effort to just have a custom prop made and use the BMW 6-speed like I will.

Still, if all you want is a punchy yet economical Jag, the R380 should hold up to the 184bhp version ok

As someone who dare i own up to being an engineer in the motor industry I'd point out the only time you would ever need to remove the engine mount bracket on the cr it was intended for is when you change the engine and all the other parts in the way  would then to come off anyway.

Well ok.... but I can think of plenty that are harder to justify..... There's the engine mount on a Mk1 TT for example that has to be removed to change the timing belt. It's bad enough that of the three bolts holding it to the engine, one you can see but not touch, one you can touch but not see and the other you can neither touch or see and just have to poke the tool in it's general direction and hope..... but then, having undone it, there isn't actually room to remove it from the work area, so you have to continually juggle the wretched thing while changing the belt etc. The oil filter is horribly inaccessible too, and that's after the 16 fasteners holding the undertray on.....

Then there is that satanic double pinch bolt found on the front vertical links of D2 A8s, B6 A4s (and many others), holding the top two ball joints. I mean, M8 x 80mm steel bolt through an alloy component, with two slots in the track of the hole pointing at the wheel to make sure salty water gets sprayed in.... what could possibly go wrong?

Or, changing marques, LR TDV6 glow plugs....?

Nick

Can't remember if I changed the starter on this before the engine swap. Not sure I attempted the job! It looks in an ok position on the engine, but seeing as it's out of the car at the moment I can't see all the stuff that's normally around it...



Neat, will give it a look normally I'm thoroughly skeptical of FB groups (not in a moral way, just that they're catastrophic for information permanance so tend to attract a steady stream of really basic questions and bury the good stuff where you can't find it).

Still, there's so much that's on FB groups now it's a little unavoidable.



Yeah I completely understand the logic of it, and in the cut-throat environment of modern car-making I can see how it's difficult to justify the time to engineer stuff to be nice to work on.

I suppose it's less a change in approach, more of a gradual reduction in the things parts are intended to be taken off for. Culminating in the current VAG trajectory of 'all parts are only intended to be removed with the engine out of car'.

Really it just makes me grateful I don't own any really modern cars (at the moment, my oldest is 1998, and I've never dailied something post-2000). Even with that I tend to modify things to make stuff easier to work on, to work around those 'weel if you're doing X job then surely you've already done Y). Like with the long bolts in the Jag's rear wishbones on page 1, where you have to drop the subframe slightly to get them out, but if you weld a couple of scallops into the boot floor then everything is disassemblable in the car. Oh, and a similar situation on the X1/9s clutch slave, which thanks to the really long through-bolts for the pedal box isn't removable unless you drop the whole frame. So I flipped the bolts around and drilled some holes in the opposite box section (with a blanking panel) so they could be slid all the way out without dropping the pedal box

Suppose that's proof that it's not just a new car thing!



Said like a fellow driver of Leyland's finest!

To be fair, I've met a number of really helpful finance people. People who's approach is 'my job is to make the numbers stack up so you can do whatever it is you're setting out to achieve'. Contrasted with some thoroughly ornery gits who won't let you do anything unless everything stacks up down to the penny before you've even started!

It's a culture thing, and I can't imagine the corporate culture within BL finance division was particularly open to risk!

Absolutely fantastic progress! Looking forward to the rest of the project for sure! 

Thanks man!



Haha nearly there half of it is having a record of what I've done for when I've forgotten later on

Me neither! The chap I bought the turbo off had been running 410bhp (not sure if that's at the wheels or at the flywheel). I'll be aiming for 400hp at the flywheel and anything over is a bonus. Not sure on what the torque figure will be as it'll have to be limited to avoid a paddle clutch. It's not the worst thing in the world if I can't, but I'd like it to be as effortless to drive as possible and I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of speed to get that if necessary (not that I think peak power will be affected, mainly the big lump of torque down low won't be as lumpy).

Still, there's people putting 600lb-ft through these clutches and seem to be ok. Seems like plenty to me!

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The next update is the last that I'd done on the previous blog, so will soon be getting to some new stuff

16th November 2020

Fair few next steps to report on

I've painted the detachable slam panel so that's now bolted in for the final time.



I've also refurbed the big bracket panel that holds the radiators in place, and clearanced it for the boost pipes.



Next step was to mock up all the boost pipes. Unfortunately my aluminium tube for joining the silicone bends together was delayed, but as a substitute I discovered that small halfords rattlecan lids wrapped in a bit of tape made a nice snug fit in 2.25" tubes.



That let me get everything mocked up in place:





After that I could make some brackets to support the lower end of the intercooler...



...which meant I could close up the front box section I had to clearance to fit the intercooler.




Sadly that's not the last time the intercooler will be mounted as you have to take it off to adjust the bonnet shut lines, but that should be a pretty rare job so not a major problem.

Last thing I've finished is supporting the filter-end of the intake pipe and fitting some jubilees.



Unfortunately I've ordered the wrong size mikalor clamps for the boost pipes so I can't sort them out (although I have now cut the aluminium joiners to size). Turns out fitting the ally pipe swells the silicone by a couple of mm which is enough to put it out of the short range of the mikalor clamps I've bought. Next size up is on its way