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Ah that would explain it. I keep coming across that on the BMW engine and I'd put it down to their machines not being able to get into tight spaces with regular size nuts, but they seemed like quite generous spaces to me. That makes much more sense. Certainly makes sense. However, on the Rezin Rockit and preciously on my C10 it was probably laziness. One would expect a company like BMW just adapting machines or designing solutions into the production line. Obviously a more common solution than one realises.
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Dec 22, 2020 13:26:01 GMT
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I like where this is going...
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Ah that would explain it. I keep coming across that on the BMW engine and I'd put it down to their machines not being able to get into tight spaces with regular size nuts, but they seemed like quite generous spaces to me. That makes much more sense. Certainly makes sense. However, on the Rezin Rockit and preciously on my C10 it was probably laziness. One would expect a company like BMW just adapting machines or designing solutions into the production line. Obviously a more common solution than one realises. I wonder when they came up with that solution... Must remember to only buy cars made before that date! I like where this is going... Thanks man! Still plenty to catch up with 4th May 2020Bit more progress this weekend Took the plunge and chopped out the rusted fuel filler area. Figured out I could just get away with not removing the rear window for now, meaning I could still do it outside. Also finished re-making my pressed bracket thing (which I've since discovered are still available for ÂŁ16...). Next up was making a replacement panel for the body. Was thinking this was going to be tricky, but in all honesty some 1mm steel and a ball-peen hammer had it made surprisingly easily. Tacked it in place very, very slowly with clamps all the way. Welding outside actually had some benefits here. When there's gust of wind it blows your shielding gas away so you have to wait for lulls which stops me getting impatient and rushing! Connected up all the tacks and very carefully sandy-flap wheeled it flush. It's slightly below the level of the panel so there's some space to filler it flat. Once the paint was dry on the underside (and the pressed panel) it got bonded in place with copious amounts of tigerseal. I also redid the seam that runs up to the c-piller as that had worked loose. Getting the tank in was a bit of a struggle. Not sure if I got the tank in slightly slanted or all the little errors adding up with the panel replacements meaning it's slightly off. It fits, but it's tight at the filler neck. Still, it's in and sealed up with hylomar blue and a coat of halford's best pending a respray. Will fettle the position a bit later. Oh, and while I was waiting for various paints to dry I remade the rear brake pipes in kunifer (including the long fore-aft pipe not pictured here). Just as well as the original steel ones cracked as I removed them... The list is getting shorter! Not much shorter, but still pleased with progress 10th May 2020Got the IRS in this weekend much lighter half built up. Little access hatch is already coming in useful. Forgot to bolt the bracket for the speedo sensor before getting it in place, which would normally be a pain but with the panel off it's no problem Also sorted my fuel flexi lines which run above the suspension unit. All of the various bits for the IRS are bolted up now. I've left the driveshafts and various bits untouched as the bearings and UJs are good (or at least good enough). When one of them goes I'll do the lot, but for now it's onto the next job 11th May 2020Everything torqued up and the ARB fitted now that I can tell the rough ride height it was easy to see the ARB links were a little long. Cut them down by 20mm and it sits much nicer. You might notice the new holes in the boot as well. Decided I was fed up with having to drop the rear of the suspension unit to get a socket onto the rear of the long through bolt for the wishbones so I'll weld some bits of tube to scallop the boot so you should be able to remove everything in situ if needed. Also worked out a plan to get the engines in and out without having to drag it up into the garage which is a bonus. Will mean it's all done outside, but that's no major issue really.
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26th May 2020This weekend's work on the Jag saw the rear brakes rebuilt... ...and the centre prop bearing support stripped and painted. Once the handbrake goes in then the car will be rollable. I've found a suitable patch of flat-ish tarmac at the front of the house to drag it to and do the engine swap. Just need to wait for my dad to get his transit-camper conversion project movable then we can shuffle that along and I can start pulling bits off the BMW. Oh, and I keep coming across bits on the XJ40 that remind me it was the equivalent of an ÂŁ82,000 car when new, and is engineered like one. This is the inside of the handbrake lever arm that attaches to the centre bearing mount: Completely unnecessary, but great that they've put it in as the arm still moves nice and smoothly without any wear on the components. Compared to my cheapy Fiat (ÂŁ22k in today's money), Spitfire (ÂŁ12k) and even Alfa (ÂŁ39k) it's nice to have a car without any major engineering faults I also patched up some holes in the boot floor, including some scallops to allow access to the wishbone through bolts without dropping the suspension. Lastly, my 2-way vent valves arrived so I fitted one to the Jag and the other to the Spitfire. The stock system on the Jag has a vacuum line that runs all the way from the intake via a charcoal canister to pull vapour from the tank. Didn't feel like supplying boost to my fuel tank so this is just a regular vent to replace all of that gubbins.
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Going to try and catch up a bit as I've made a fair bit of progress recently that we're still quite a way from! 1st June 2020Haha so it turns out something went a little awry with the lowering springs I bought half a decade ago. It's a little slammed! This is with my mate in the boot simulating 90 litres of fuel and it's on the bumpstops! If anyone can recommend a good set of lowering springs I'm all ears (athough the ground is pretty uneven here). Still, it's rollable which means the BMW can come out of long term storage The front end of these comes apart in no time. Only took about a day or so to get the engine out, and at a pretty leasurely pace as well. Pulled out most of the electrics I'll need, and some spare stock for wiring other cars. Taken the ECU, the EWS immobiliser module and the electrocin throttle so I can get at the sensor. I'll also need the reluctor ring from the steering column just in case. Planning an EWS delete to simplify things, but if all else fails I'll have the bits needed to make sure the modern electronics are happy. They also come with a rather nifty splitter in the boot with a sodding great 250a fuse and another 100a fuse which is useful to know for anyone planning to put a battery in the boot of another car. With that sorted over a weekend and the BMW back in its place, the Jag could be dragged out front ready for surgery
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7th June 2020Getting the Jag engine out isn't quite as simple as the BMW one as the front end is solidly attached. I've read that you need to get these engines at quite the angle for them to come out with the gearbox still attached, so figured a bit of modification would help. Sorted out some bracketry which means that the centre part of the slam panel is detachable: Plenty of room for the engine to come out Took some measurements of both of the engines and the BMW is smaller in all dimensions except width at the back due to the integral air filter housing so that will probably need to go. Oh, and the BMW aircon pump is very low down so might foul on the ARB, but there's nothing on the left of the engine so I can probably offset it to give more clearance for that and the downpipe too. Also, the scope of the project may have crept up a little. Mate of mine sent me a link to a bit of a larger turbo at a very good price so now it's sitting on my shelf... Apparently the PO was running this with 410bhp/664lb-ft! Rather like the idea of a monster turbodiesel Jag...
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Great thread, enjoying your work. Another project bookmarked for me
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Jan 11, 2021 12:18:26 GMT
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Haha thanks guys! Oof indeed! This'll be the first properly powerful car I'll have owned so it's quite exciting really! Closest previously would be a 2.5 V6 Alfa 156, and an E46 330i Touring (which wasn't noticeably quicker than the Alfa until you got over motorway speeds). Next catch-up update 15th June 2020Latest progress is the engine bay's pretty much stripped. Decided that it'll be much easier to chase the rust in the engine bay without all the junk in it. Especially at the bulkhead. These cars are by and large pretty good with general rust. Lots of good quality seam sealer shows that they were really trying to fight the 'rusty British cars' stigma. It worked pretty well given that they're better than every E46 I've ever owned (probably skewed by the rock-bottom price of every E46 I've ever owned), but unfortunately they've got a few real rust traps which tend to show themselves as they age. One of those is at the base of the windscreen: If this goes, it soaks the insulation behind the dash and rusts out the bulkhead along one of its seams. Bits like this are a dead giveaway: Unfortunately it's a dash-out job to fix so that's on the cards over the next few weeks (and likely a windscreen out at some point soon too). Last bit out of the engine bay Turns out the pedal box comes out as a unit, avoiding splitting master cylinders and the like. Now onto de-rusting and spraying most of it before contemplating a dashboard remove...
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Jan 11, 2021 16:15:09 GMT
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MORE MORE MORE!!!!
This should be a properly cool bit of kit when done! (is it done yet?!)
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Jan 11, 2021 20:29:52 GMT
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So much awesomeness going on here, an XJ6 sideways in a cloud of black smoke is going to be art.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Jan 11, 2021 20:49:51 GMT
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Certainly going to be quite a weapon!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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v8jim
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,304
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Jan 11, 2021 21:56:40 GMT
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Great project 👍🏻 A Big comfy barge with tons of torque and sensible mpg has got to be fun
I’m contemplating something similar as I’ve just bought a cheap OM606
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Max sig pic size: 80px
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can yo pop a little bit of inlet vacuum to the sump phil ? on my car i have a one way breather valve,made from a 22mm plumbing sprung loaded ball valve , and the pipe from the inlet to the rocker box has a valve in it so i can adjust the amount of vacuum .totally cured blowby and exhaust smoke. need a sealed oil filler cap and dipstick though.
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Last Edit: Jan 12, 2021 8:33:42 GMT by ivanhoew
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can yo pop a little bit of inlet vacuum to the sump phil ? on my car i have a one way breather valve,made from a 22mm plumbing sprung loaded ball valve , and the pipe from the inlet to the rocker box has a valve in it so i can adjust the amount of vacuum .totally cured blowby and exhaust smoke. need a sealed oil filler cap and dipstick though. That sounds like a good solution, but there's no vac on a diesel inlet. Suppose you could pipe some in from whatever vacuum system it has elsewhere (will have a vac pump I imagine) but starting to get more complicated!
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Jan 12, 2021 10:15:53 GMT
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Jan 12, 2021 11:29:12 GMT
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ah pox i forgot diesel . there are leccy pumps on ebay for 49 quid brand new ? i ws pondering putting on on medusa .
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Jan 12, 2021 12:10:43 GMT
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The donor engine should have a vac pump already, will be needed for the brake booster etc. Would think that could be used for your suggestion, just a bit more piping involved than running a valve off the inlet!
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Jan 12, 2021 12:37:57 GMT
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Thanks guys! MORE MORE MORE!!!! This should be a properly cool bit of kit when done! (is it done yet?!) It's not done yet I'm afraid (although that does mean it's still current!). Much further forward than what I've posted here though, so plenty to come So much awesomeness going on here, an XJ6 sideways in a cloud of black smoke is going to be art. Oh absolutely I wonder what the easiest way would be to have a switchable smokescreen map... A ghetto method could be to have a simple switched feed to one of the sensors making it run rich Certainly going to be quite a weapon! Nick I'm hoping so! My girlfriend thought it was very cheesy when I described it as a 'cruise missile', but hopefully that'll quite an accurate description! Great project 👍🏻 A Big comfy barge with tons of torque and sensible mpg has got to be fun I’m contemplating something similar as I’ve just bought a cheap OM606 Oh absolutely do it. OM606s are stellar engines, and if anything a bit simpler to get big power out of as it's all old-school mechanical injection. What're you thinking for the car? I was up the other night when storm Bella was howling around wondering what car I'd continue with if a tree squashed this Jag too. Realistically another Jag would both be sensible and wanted, but I was struck by how awesome (and practical!) an SD1 would be with a big honking turbodiesel. Was even wondering about the TDV8s you get in Rangies... can yo pop a little bit of inlet vacuum to the sump phil ? on my car i have a one way breather valve,made from a 22mm plumbing sprung loaded ball valve , and the pipe from the inlet to the rocker box has a valve in it so i can adjust the amount of vacuum .totally cured blowby and exhaust smoke. need a sealed oil filler cap and dipstick though. can yo pop a little bit of inlet vacuum to the sump phil ? on my car i have a one way breather valve,made from a 22mm plumbing sprung loaded ball valve , and the pipe from the inlet to the rocker box has a valve in it so i can adjust the amount of vacuum .totally cured blowby and exhaust smoke. need a sealed oil filler cap and dipstick though. That sounds like a good solution, but there's no vac on a diesel inlet. Suppose you could pipe some in from whatever vacuum system it has elsewhere (will have a vac pump I imagine) but starting to get more complicated! What problem was this to solve? Is it for the crankcase pressure? The BMW has a vacuum pump on the nose of the engine which is used for actuating the turbo on older cars (like mine, later ones used electronic actuators), and assisting the brakes. This is just as well as all of the Jag's climate control stuff is vacuum operated and I didn't fancy re-engineering that! You can definitely generate vacuum with clever placement in a turbo inlet too. I think it works the same way paint guns work, by passing air over the top of an aperture it sucks up stuff beneath it. Really I'm reluctant to connect it to the inlet again as it al gets very coked up on a diesel (although part of that will be the EGR which is deleted). Wondering if I'll have similar issues running the PCV valve to the vacuum pump...
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Jan 12, 2021 14:17:53 GMT
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Purely to avoid crankcase pressure. There must be something in the OE BWM install surely? I don’t think the vacuum pump is remotely suitable for crankcase vent duty, volumes involved are way too big.
Vent to atmosphere and a catch tank is all that is required from the engines point a view, though if you can find a way to apply a bit of vac it’ll sweat a bit less.
Another factor when considering diesel breathers and the connections to inlet tract is that if your system ever allows the engine enough access to its lube oil, or even a dense enough vapour....... it’ll run away.... and that bad. Really bad. And scary.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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