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Thanks! I'm now over Whitstable way, but if I find myself over in the West Country I'll let you know Shall do I think I've got everything hooked up, but it's not been tested yet! I'd read through your thread shortly after getting the engine in mine. It's an awesome car! What else have you done the swap on? Flicking through your thread again it's occurred to me that there's no charge light on the E46 204bhp wiring so that might not work. Everything in the gauges is done via CAN so I might need a decoder of some variety eventually. Oh also, did you hook up the power steering from the M57 to the Volvo? If so, how was the feel? The max pressures are way different (76 bar for the 240, 120 bar for the early M57 LF2 pump, or 130 bar for the LF3). The working pressure's a bit of a mystery as that's set by an orifice in the shuttle, but there's a relationship with the max pressure the relief valve will allow. If it's overly light then I've got a bunch of springs and shims to set an LF3 pump as low as 63ish bar all the way back up to 130 bar. I've bought a PS pressure gauge kit to check my measurements and maths, but if you fancied being a guinea pig I can send a spring and shim kit your way. Here was the measuring rig! That's a helicopter blade weight my mate procured from a scrap pile. Depleted uranium and phenomenally heavy for the size of it! Oh, and this is what the guts of the LF3 pump looks like. The overpressure spring is the little one in the middle, and lives inside the shuttle that sets the general operating pressure and high rpm pressure relief. If anyone fancies looking at the springs themselves here's the dimensions as best as I could measure them (although the little spring is actually 17.196mm long, and the big spring is 43mm long...remeasured them better after this pic): The big spring has a rate of about 1.648 n/mm, and the little spring has a rate between 27.931 and 28.707 n/mm (much, much stiffer! Hence the blade weight...). The big spring is under 14.47mm preload, and the little spring is under 3.7mm preload.
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Thanks! I'm now over Whitstable way, but if I find myself over in the West Country I'll let you know Shall do I think I've got everything hooked up, but it's not been tested yet! I'd read through your thread shortly after getting the engine in mine. It's an awesome car! What else have you done the swap on? Just Defenders. Lots of defenders lol. Flicking through your thread again it's occurred to me that there's no charge light on the E46 204bhp wiring so that might not work. Everything in the gauges is done via CAN so I might need a decoder of some variety eventually. The 204 alternator you can just control the alternator with a light same as normal, just adjust where the wire goes. Oh also, did you hook up the power steering from the M57 to the Volvo? If so, how was the feel? The max pressures are way different (76 bar for the 240, 120 bar for the early M57 LF2 pump, or 130 bar for the LF3). The working pressure's a bit of a mystery as that's set by an orifice in the shuttle, but there's a relationship with the max pressure the relief valve will allow. If it's overly light then I've got a bunch of springs and shims to set an LF3 pump as low as 63ish bar all the way back up to 130 bar. So that was something I was orginally concerned with. Driving it normally it feels fine. I guess the working pressure is kind of governed by load. I don't think i'd want to hold it at lock for any period of time but then I don't with any car so it's not really something i'm concerned about. Thank you for the offer of the springs but in all honesty I wouldn't get round to fitting them for years haha. I've still not finished the wiring on the volvo and i've got ECU issues. I lent mine to someone, and they damaged it somehow, so got their spare one and it runs like curse word, got another one done and it doesn't boost. I'll have to dig into it at some point but i've damaged my back and can't really walk or move currently so i'm sat on the internet bored instead. I have to say reading your thread was bloody amazing though. Great work I was so entertained. Cheers!
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Fantastic thread. Just spent hours reading it, you should be very proud of your work.
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Dec 10, 2021 15:20:35 GMT
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Thanks both! Dead chuffed you've enjoyed my ramblings I can imagine there would be a lot of swapped Defenders. I was wondering a similar thing for a Disco (always fancied a Disco). Also thought one would go very well in a 740 estate which I also have a real soft spot for... Interesting on the alternator front. Is it just a matter of splicing the Jag wire into one that goes into the back of the BMW alternator, or does it need to be run into the ECU? Glad the steering feels ok driving around as the running pressure isn't something I've worked out how to adjust (or rather I know how, but it involves precisely adjusting the size of an orifice within the pump and matching an overpressure spring to that orifice size). If you do get it back up and running...and then manage to blow the seals on the rack just let me know I've got a load of them now! And hope your back manages to correct itself. I put mine out at the tender age of 23 (lifting and twisting something stupidly heavy) and it took a long time to get the strength back into it enough to not be ginger with it. Still have to be a bit careful, but it's been ages since I've really damaged it. On the Jag front not a great deal has happened. It's been an interesting week or two at the new house as we've discovered we're blowing through one 47kg £95 a week! We weren't expecting a listed building to be brilliant, but it's a bit steep for a 15 degree house :S so it's been full tilt 'operation insulation' for a while now I have, however, managed to make these: The Jag wings are held on by lots of bolts with captive washers (sometimes called SEM bolts), which helps prevent you dropping loose washers in inaccessible locations. Very handy, but as I've discovered also quite pricy for hardware and difficult to find in non-standard lengths/yellow zinc. So I thought I'd make my own 1mm nitrile rubber sheet and a leather punch worked a treat. Now the wings are both bolted firmly in place will keep an eye on how well they cope over time, but they seem to work well
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Dec 30, 2021 14:00:32 GMT
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Haha well I was hoping to have an update for the new year, but fate and lack of forethought have conspired against me Went to fit the ECU and start the car over Christmas, but no dice on the starter or fuel pump. Spent an hour or so tracing wires for the fuel pump before working out that the fuel pump relay isn't getting power to the triggering wire. The reason it's not getting any power is because there's a 'Main Relay' that powers the fuel pump, ECU and some other gubbins that just so happens to be on the engine loom I've removed. That would do it! Ran out of time to fix the problem before it was off back home so had hoped to plumb it all back in over New Years. Sadly, a positive covid test and elderly relatives living at my parents place means no dice for that either! Shall have to busy myself with something else in the meantime! Luckily it's quite mild so it shouldn't slow down whatever I'm trying to get done on the new house Fixing up a car when it's an hour and a half away is tricky man! Who'd have thought Edit: I did at least manage to get the clutch master changed over as that was leaking. In a very helpful move they've positioned the reservoir directly over one of the nuts which required a special tool creating: I was lucky to be able to get the correct master cylinder though. I'd initially bought an early one which is identical in all respects except the outlet exits directly into the accumulator for the brakes. CBC7284 is what I used and it fits fine. CAC6727 does not fit. Interestingly though the mounting dimensions are the same as the standard Girling type master cylinders you can get for dual brake setups and the like. You need to plumb your own reservoir, but if the clutch bores are mismatched I could use something other than the 19.05mm bore of the Jag one quite easily. Oh, and pic of the ECU all snug in its location:
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Last Edit: Dec 30, 2021 14:48:17 GMT by biturbo228
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What a thread! Some inspiring work there but it's your persistence that I'm in awe of!
I had a rusty xj40 for a few months, kinda glad I sold it on as the work required would have been beyond my abilities!
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Thanks man! Glad you've enjoyed it so far Yeah they do like to go majorly in a few key spots that can take a fair bit of work to fix. No worse than a E36/E46 I'd say which isn't bad going, but yes they do take some fixing!
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That looks like a job for a crows foot spanner!
It's been a good read catching up on this! Nice one!
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Feb 10, 2022 12:58:59 GMT
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Thanks guys! Yes a crows foot spanner would be perfect. I've got a set, but I bought it for doing the inner tie rods on the X1/9 so they start at 18mm! Must get some smaller ones... It's been a long time since the last major breakthrough on the car. I rewired the fuel pump so it's triggered by the ignition relay, which is less safe than standard as if I crash it'll still be pumping fuel so long as the ignition's on, but it's diesel so it's less flammable and will suffice to get the thing running. I also just bypassed the BMW ECU for starting and spliced the Jag starter relay directly to the BMW starter wire. Unfortunately, when I turned the starter it wouldn't stop churning over, even if the key was removed! Had to take the terminal off the battery to get it to stop spinning. Cue puzzled looks and staring forlornly at the total mess of wires that is the Jag wiring loom So far, that little conundrum's taken me 3 weeks to solve! The reason it's taken 3 weeks is the difficulty in finding proper wiring diagrams for either the Jag or the E46. There's tons of forums linking resources from 2003-2014 (which I reckon was a real golden age of internet information), but most of them are broken or missing now. It's really impressed upon me the transience of information on the internet. Must buy a hard drive and download all this stuff... Started with the Haynes manual, which surprise surprise isn't quite right: Basically there's an intermediate set of wiring (actually 2) between the early (88-90) wiring and the late (93-94) wiring. My '92 car is closer to the 93-94 wiring, but not quite the same. It's also a manual car, which means there isn't a rotary gear position switch. The breakthrough came when I stumbled across JagRepair.com which has a load of XJ40 wiring diagrams misfiled under XJ6 & XJ12. Since looking at that last week, that website's now coming back as 'Service Unavailable' which may be temporary, but it's not a good sign either! Luckily its well attested in the Wayback Machine which is a truly fantastic resource. Predictably the wiring diagrams for the Jag are complicated with switched powers and earths as well as little logic boxes all over the place, but it did suggest that the issue didn't lie with the wiring on the Jag side. That all functioned as expected. Unfortunately, it was a similar story with the BMW wiring diagrams. There's lots floating around online which are almost all wrong in some way or another. PSS-Autosoft has what seems like a very helpful branching diagram tree for BMWs and new Minis, but it's Java based and doesn't function in modern browsers. I tried with some obsolete ones as well, but it still didn't seem to work. There used to be a lot more, but BMW have gone around making IP claims against them until they've all been taken down. The breakthrough came when I searched for 'BMW E46 WDS' rather than 'wiring diagram' and this Russian website turned up which seems to be the same branching diagram tree as the broken BMW one. The Russians might be tickling the belly of World War 3 in Ukraine at the moment, but at least their lack of respect for German IP means I can get wiring diagrams without paying £30 per day for access to BMW's proprietary system. Here's what the wiring diagram for the BMW starter looks like on a facelift E46 330d: Not sure what's going on with the two triggering coils in the solenoid (it's probably a push and a pull coil for engaging and then disengaging the starter), but I did work out what I'd done wrong. The big wire on the upper left is the main solenoid trigger wire. Connected that all fine. However, when I was tracing wires initially I'd found that there was continuity to the middle-bottom wire as well so I connected that too. What that was doing is meaning that when I turned the key off, the direct power from the solenoid was holding itself on and kept the starter going! Snipped that wire and capped it, so hopefully it should work! Not tested it yet, and there's a bit of funkiness happening with the wire I've snipped as its supposed to disappear off to the gauge cluster (which is the hub for all the CAN nonsense), but hopefully that's just a signal of some sort and it'll work fine without it.
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Last Edit: Feb 10, 2022 15:02:33 GMT by biturbo228
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Feb 10, 2022 13:10:30 GMT
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Useful stuff, they all open ok for me.
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There is a Facebook page dedicated to diesel swaps in the BMW E30. Last week there was a guy on there advertising custom looms to run the M57 in any vehicle. Might help if you get totally stuck.
This is one of my favourite projects, i really like the Jag's exterior and interior and the M57 is a great engine for it.
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Feb 11, 2022 11:04:26 GMT
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the BMW engined landrover facebook group seem to know what they are doing
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Feb 11, 2022 13:59:41 GMT
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There is a Facebook page dedicated to diesel swaps in the BMW E30. Last week there was a guy on there advertising custom looms to run the M57 in any vehicle. Might help if you get totally stuck. This is one of my favourite projects, i really like the Jag's exterior and interior and the M57 is a great engine for it. Glad you like it dude! Yeah I've always thought the XJ40 was one of the best looking Jags. 80s boxiness meets svelte and low Jaguarness. Hoping the M57 will suit it down to the ground (although I do very much like the AJ6 as well, cracking engine). I came across those looms a little after I'd started plumbing mine. Would have saved a fair chunk of time! Although I rather like working my own way through things, even when it takes a while to do the BMW engined landrover facebook group seem to know what they are doing Ah I've come across a generic M57 FB group, but perhaps the Landy lot would have more experience putting them in different cars. Will give them a try
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Feb 11, 2022 14:07:21 GMT
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Feb 14, 2022 11:44:47 GMT
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Interesting! The E39 has a lot of similarities in electrical setup to the non-facelift E46, and is a bit simpler than the later E46s (although the N53 is even more complicated than the M57 so it's probably a bigger gap to bridge!). Big milestone this weekend! Remembered to bring the key up with me so thought I'd try and start it... It lives! In fairness that was the second start as I wasn't expecting it to catch the first time round no coolant in it so didn't keep it running for long, but it seemed to settle into a nice idle and the chopped up throttle seemed to work nicely a little bit of smoke which I'm hoping will change once it can warm up properly. Noise level isn't too bad either. We'll see what it's like when it's driving! Oh, and the rev gauge doesn't work so something about my mashing up the two systems hasn't worked properly, but that's a minor thing. Not quite ready to go yet. Still have a full front suspension overhaul, pretty much all fluids, indicators, horns, attach a coolant temp sensor somewhere, oil pressure sender, and maybe redo the propshaft as I'm getting less and less confident the 30mm centre bearing will be beefy enough... But still, big milestone and the list is growing steadily shorter
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Feb 14, 2022 19:19:19 GMT
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There is something so wrong and yet so right about that video!
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Feb 14, 2022 19:35:11 GMT
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oh hell yes!!!! awesome noises
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Feb 14, 2022 20:02:58 GMT
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Nice one 🙂
Possibly going to need a slightly more refined exhaust note…… but on load testing needed to be sure.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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