Next few things on the Jag first off was the fuel filler.
One of the things I forgot to do before fitting the tank was drill out the filler hole for the bigger 25mm diesel nozzle. The tank's a bit of a pain to get out, and when I repaired the filler cap area I'm not sure I got the frame in the right place so the filler cap was wedged against the drain.
All of this added up to me hacksawing off the end of the filler cap
I stuffed some oil-soaked kitchen roll down the filler to catch swarf. Can't remember if I put 2 or 3 down there, but only 2 came out
Inside the filler cap are these little teeth which neck the size down to a petrol nozzle. I've read before that during development the XJ40 they looked quite seriously at a diesel variant (hence why the bottom end of the AJ6 is built like a brick outhouse). I wonder whether this design of filler cap would also make for easy production of diesel and petrol variants.
Still, a quick file and that was sorted
A bit of 50mm fuel hose to bridge the gap and we're sorted. I cut an extra 10mm strip off the filler cap neck which let me reposition it slightly, alleviating some of the filler cap drain crushing issue (although not all of it). You can see it wedged beneath the filler in the 2nd pic.
Next up was the trim that went around the headlining. All the little christmas tree clips holding those on had shattered upon attempted removal, leading to an interesting hour spent trying to fish them out of the inside of the pillars. I eventually came up with a technique that involved gripping the little plastic sleeve they're pushed into and gingerly wiggling it backwards and forwards until it walked itself out of the hole, but it's still not an easy job!
Spent a while looking for replacement trim clips and eventually came upon these which are for a modern BMW of some variety. 8mm hole. With 16 of those we were sorted!
After that it was time for wet-vaccing the footwell carpets as these go underneath the seats (or the rears do at least). It's not a miracle machine, but the difference is noticeable (I've cleaned a line down the middle in the pic).
That meant the driver's seat could go back in (I've lost the bolts for the passenger one).
Had to file out the front mounting holes on the rail quite a bit. Not sure why that would be as although the manual seat rails are new to this car, you could still get manual seats in 1992. Perhaps the early cars sat directly on the box section and the later cars had carpet between as that's about the difference. Still, they're in!
Lastly, I discovered that the little light panel at the front of the headlining is held in by a little bracket that's riveted directly to the headlining. Luckily I hadn't already chucked my old one as the fibreglass replacement didn't come with one!
I was dreading having to drill through the fibreglass to fit it as every attempt on the old headlining snagged the fabric and twisted it, but upon shining a torch through it I discovered they were pre-drilled! Just needed holes poking through the fabric with an awl.
I really am impressed by the quality of this headlining. They're called Myrtle Ltd, based down in Thanet but will happily post. I think they mainly do Rolls and Bentleys, but have a comprehensive Jag section as well and I noticed they've got a VW one too!
Last Edit: Sept 27, 2021 15:52:23 GMT by biturbo228
I concur with the high opinion of Myrtle head liners, I fitted one in my X308 and it was literally a perfect fit, no faffing around with anything. Probably spent more time wrestling the old one off and out of the car.
You're making great progress on this, any more big ticket items left to sort out or are you on to the time consuming last 10% stuff now?
1971 MGB GT 1983 Daimler Sovereign 4.2 1999 Jaguar XJR
Yep, perfect fit on mine too, which considering it's a big complex-curved fibreglass moulding is nothing short of amazing.
There's getting to be precious few big ticket items left. One of them is the front brakes, which need a brake adapter bracket making up (I've made one out of wood, just need to transfer it to CAD and get it machined). Paint's another one, but it's looking like I'll have the car running and driving in multicolours and get it painted next year. Oh, and some rust on the front section of the sills, but that's not major. I'd also like to do a front suspension overhaul, but that can technically wait.
Another is power steering, but I've come up with a solution for that as well which I might as well talk about now!
I know I'd spent a fair bit of time making a bracket for the Peugeot 106 PS pump, but I'd reached an issue with the standard aux belt routing. Unlike the M52 there isn't a good alternative routing that will keep the belt tensioned properly so I was looking at taking the guys out of the PS pump to run it as an idler pulley. But seeing as I was doing that anyway I might as well see what was going on inside the pressure regulation mechanism.
When you unscrew the big union that the PS line bolts into there's this lot of gubbins that sits behind it:
The little spring is what sets the maximum pressure the rack will see when you push the wheel at full lock. It's this that's most often quoted for power steering systems, and is 120 bar for the BMW pump and 75-83 bar for the XJ40. That sits inside a little shuttle with the big spring which works to regulate pressure from overspeed of the pump at higher rpm. The actual pressure the rack sees in normal use is governed by the little pin poking out of the shuttle and a venturi in the union.
This video does a great job of showing how it works:
We figured that tuning the pressure the rack sees during normal use would be pretty tricky, and would likely involve machining an insert to make the venturi narrower and matching that with a different rate big spring. What is pretty straight forward though would be fitting a different small spring to stop the pump blowing the seals out of the Jag rack.
Spent some time with digital verniers and a micrometer to get the dimensions of the springs (43mm x 16.26mm x 1.5mm wire for the big spring, 17.196mm x 7.8mm x 1.4mm wire for the little spring). Spent a little while longer trying to measure the spring rates. The big spring was easier as it's quite soft, but the little spring was tricky!
Luckily, my aircraft mechanic mate has a depleted uranium helicopter blade weight in his tool drawer which did the trick. The size of a tallish beer car and 5.55kg!
With some very careful measurement we came to the conclusion the spring rate is 27.9-28.7nm/mm (error because he movement was small for the given weight, and it's tricky to get it to rest perfectly level on the spring).
After a fair bit of searching I've found various spring and shim arrangements that let me control the pressure all the way from 64ish bar up to 130ish bar. Springs are from flexosprings, and shims are 8mm diameter. I've ended up with a reasonable batch of them though, so once I've tested whether my maths is right I'll probably list a kit up on eBay or something (there's a question about whether the little hole in the relief valve can flow enough to get the pressure down to 64 bar, or whether it needs drilling out at some point).
Will fit the spring, sort out the lines and test how the steering feels. If it's a little on the light side I can try increasing the caster as Jag has a spacer arrangement on the top balljoint which you can swap around. Hopefully that will add feel and weight to the steering if it's lacking
That's a good idea, although I think you'd want a bigger pulley to drop rpm for the pump. I suppose it's rare that you'd be revving the engine to 2500rpm and turning the wheel at full lock (I'm not much of a drifter yet!) so that would reduce the pressure created at idle.
The relief circuit looks quite easy to modify for flow though. The orifice the little ball bearing thingy sits against is much wider, but it necks down considerably further along. Taking a small drill to that bit should increase flow without risk of damaging the seat so it should be fine
Finding out what an under or overdrive pulley would do during normal driving is complicated as the actual pressure the rack sees at a given rpm is dependent on four different systems. First is the pressure curve of the pump wheel, second is the orifice between the shuttle and the outlet pipe, third is the speed relief by the shuttle, and fourth is the overpressure relief valve. The function of these systems are interrelated in ways that are tricky to predict with my limited understanding!
I vote test some combinations and see what they do
Oh, on a side note, I'm pretty certain all the pumps on the M57 and M57n engines are LUK LF30s, although I haven't managed to match part numbers yet. I know that people dislike the LF30 on petrol E46s as it reduces steering feel, but the lower pressure LF20 had an issue of snapping shafts (I think this has been fixed, but not sure).
If changing the pressure relief spring works then perhaps that might be a solution for that as well, but I suspect it's a valving issue so might be less easily fixed.
So most of the work on the Jag recently has been tying up loose ends and fixing little bits. I've got the passenger seat bolted in place now. The only thing left on the interior is for the ECU to come back from base mapping so I can tuck that away behind the passenger footwell kick panel.
There's other bits and pieces like the knackered veneer on the centre console, but that can get sorted later and wont prevent it driving. I've also left the front footwell carpets out as the rust on the front sills extends to the closing panel for the footwell so I'd just fill it with grit and have to clean it again.
I've got the clutch line all hooked up as well. BRT Motorsport have got a helpful little service for making up custom braided brake lines which I used for the flexi section. You choose the ends (I needed a 90deg M10x1 female swivel and an M10x1 bulkhead male) then pick the length from end to end (non-inclusive of the extra length for the radius on the 90 degree bit, if that makes sense). Was quite affordable really.
Ideally I'd have had an M12x1 bulkhead fitting on one end, but that wasn't an option so I had to get an adapter.
Lack of availability of slightly non-standard fixings and fittings has been an issue really. I couldn't find an M10x1 female to M12x1 male adapter with a conical end on the male bit anywhere online in the UK so I had to order it from the States. All the UK ones seemed to have a flat end on the M12 male bit, which I didn't like the look of.
It's also been tricky finding M6 countersunk torx screws that aren't bloody stainless. Not sure if this is a 'modern world' thing or I'm just looking in the wrong places for fasteners.
I've also been at the seam sealer gun. Firstly along the rain channel of the new roof skin.
The time's ticking down rather quickly to my pending house move so it's unlikely I'll be able to get paint sorted this year so it needs to be watertight even if it looks rough, seeing as the Fiat's gone pop too.
I've also run a bead of sealant all around the outside of the door seal channels. I think this is one of the places that allows rust to creep in underneath the spot-welded channels so hopefully this helps.
That allowed me to put the door seals back in. PITA of a job, pushing them in 3mm at a time with a screwdriver. Couldn't work out whether they went in better greased or ungreased, but I plumped for greased by the end. I think half the issue is that as you press the seal in with the screwdriver you push it along a little bit, which stretches it out in the channel and leaves you with excess to get rid of at the end. The red rubber grease makes it easier to shuffle it along a bit to take up the excess.
Another issue was that channels I'd made weren't perfectly shaped, so often the seal needed to be stretched a bit taut to keep it in the channel, meaning there was more excess to redistribute than normal. Oh, and corners are easiest to do if you pop the straight section either side of them in and then work your way into the corner.
Took a while but they're all in now!
I've also taken the opportunity while it's drained to replace the water pump and thermostat. The old one looked quite grungy coming off, with what looks like radweld jelly in it.
Think I should flush it well before buttoning everything up!
I also bought the wrong waterpump as apparently they're different between the 2.9l M57 and the later M57n engines.
I thought I could just drill and tap the blank tab, but the two holes closest to the pulley don't line up either. If anyone with a 2.9l M57 needs a brand new Meyle water pump I might just know a guy who has one
Last Edit: Oct 14, 2021 11:00:23 GMT by biturbo228
Great build. Shame that you won't get to paint it this year, but house moves can be stressful as hell! Just wondered if you'd considered refinishing the wood veneer in a grey colour (like some of the more recent sportier jags). Or are you keeping it standard? Either way, please keep the updates coming!
Yeah the house move itself is going fine, it's the fact that it puts a deadline on a whole load of other stuff that's tricky!
I'm a real sucker for walnut trim. There's something unashamedly 'British car' about it that companies seem to shy away from these days, preferring more modern-Germanic stuff that's black or grey. Not that it doesn't look great, but the walnut trim will be staying as a protest against modernisation and the way the car market has been changing
Alongside the paint, another things that'll likely have to wait by the wayside a little is the big brake conversion. I've tinkered about in FreeCAD to make my first proper CAD model for the brake relocation bracket:
For those who haven't read the rest of the thread I'd initially thought that you might be able to fit the 325mm front brake discs from an X308 XJR by just using the XJR caliper carriers and a 16mm spacer. Unfortunately, despite making the caliper carrier bigger they also moved the lugs on the hub out 5mm or so on the X308 so they don't quite fit. You could turn the discs down a little bit, but that might get expensive with replacements in future.
So I swapped back to the standard XJ40 caliper carrier and made a wooden relocating spacer, before copying it into a CAD model.
FreeCAD is a bit clunky, and it lacks the functionality to calculate hole centre-to-centre distance in their technical drawing software, but it does work and most importantly it'll install on my work laptop without needing an administrator password
I thought I'd give Fractory a try as it'd been advertised to me (I know! Advertising for something useful! What a world we live in...). Easy website to navigate, and the chappy on the other end emailed me pretty promptly for clarifications, and gave me two options for anodised and non-anodised as I mentioned I was prototyping. No idea how the price compares to other options though...
Unfortunately, the lead time takes me through to after when the move is likely to happen, so I thought I'd throw together the standard brakes with cheap new front discs just to get rolling. Means I don't need to buy new tyres for the 17s before I move as well, which delays that purchase for a bit!
Oh, and if people are wondering if it's worth buying expensive discs or not, the new cheapy ones are noticeably less beefy than the OEM ones. Same total thickness, but the gap in the middle is 1.5mm wider so there will be less thermal capacity in them, quite aside from any metallurgy differences. If your brakes are overspecced I expect it would be fine, but if they're marginal for a given application then it might make the difference!
Another neat thing that's happened is I've lucked into finding a fibreglass bonnet and boot on one of the XJ40 FB groups. Saves sorting the (admittedly minimal) rust on each of those, and is lighter to boot.
Not by much though! It's a beefy construction. Only 1.6kg lighter than the steel one will probably poke some more holes in bits of it, but I doubt I'll be able to get more than 2kg lighter while keeping the gas struts.
Another little bit towards making it good, if not necessarily just getting it working, is this little guy:
Where the power steering cooler hoses drop down by the turbo outlet was pretty close with the subframe below and hard to stop rubbing on things. Making some little 10mm stainless link pipes let me tuck them in further as the OD is smaller than the rubber ones, and I can clamp it solid. It lives here: