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Mar 17, 2021 17:48:21 GMT
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Mar 17, 2021 17:49:32 GMT
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Sticker plate  |
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Mar 19, 2021 10:45:35 GMT
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What an awesome looking thing. Can't believe I've missed this thread up til now! I'm loving the paint job.
Nice work on getting the diff bolt out. They can be a pain with the body still one (or the body off for that matter). Lots of copperslip/antiseize when they go back in.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:59:09 GMT
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Nice work on getting the diff bolt out. They can be a pain with the body still one (or the body off for that matter). Lots of copperslip/antiseize when they go back in. Heralds and Vitesses have two short bolts instead of one long one. I have no idea why. Not sure if this is better or worse, they both have their challenges. Nick |
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Doing some basic wiring and it's a mystery to me, thought I'd see if any of you smart lot might have any ideas as I'm stuck and keen not to destroy the car!!
I have twin fans connected to the main 12v (not ignition) with a manual switch. This is so the fan can be run while the car is shut off (and also it was wired like this when I got it).
There is no standard triumph thermostat installed in the water pump.
I want to add an adjustable temp thermostat (to ignition) but also keep the manual fan override to the main 12v.
I've bought a relay and was working off this diagram I found from kenlow/land-rover forum
 I have bought this type of relay and have the thermostat and fans as in the diagram. However this has the manual fan override connected to the ignition, rather than to the constant 12v. This is the thermostat wiring diagram, just goes inline with the fan (but again assumes the fan is attached to ignition supply rather than main 12v supply).  Any suggestions or pointers really appreciated, the dark art of wiring baffles me!! Thanks |
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 Essentially trying to get to this, but not sure on the relay wiring as a result... Cheers! |
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Mar 25, 2021 11:35:51 GMT
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The alternative of course is to wire in the manual fan to the ignition rather than 12v main, then just follow the diagram I guess!
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I think both of those options would work. Basically, the way this circuit works is that the relay acts as a secondary switch. Inside the relay is a little switch between the 30 and the 87 pins. Between number 85 and 86 is an electromagnet. When you put power through that, it forces the 30-87 contacts closed, making the connection. The reason relays are used is they can take more current than a regular switch. So, you can take the feed for the manual override switch directly from the battery positive if you like without any other changes to the wiring diagram  I'd definitely run with a thermostat in the water pump though. The electric one will sort the fans, but that won't regulate the temperature of the engine effectively (unless the radiator is hopelessly undersized). Oh, and buy some proper crimpers, and some proper crimps (not the big value buckets from eBay!). I get mine from RS Online which are expensive but really good quality. I find the eBay ones tend to pull off no matter how hard they're crimped. I got these for crimpers. They've been very good so far, and the stripping tool is dead useful as well. Sometimes the jaws aren't the right size for the crimps (the red one can be a bit small if you're up at the top of a red crimp's capacity), but otherwise fully recommended. |
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Mar 31, 2021 14:19:24 GMT
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I think both of those options would work. Basically, the way this circuit works is that the relay acts as a secondary switch. Inside the relay is a little switch between the 30 and the 87 pins. Between number 85 and 86 is an electromagnet. When you put power through that, it forces the 30-87 contacts closed, making the connection. The reason relays are used is they can take more current than a regular switch. So, you can take the feed for the manual override switch directly from the battery positive if you like without any other changes to the wiring diagram I'd definitely run with a thermostat in the water pump though. The electric one will sort the fans, but that won't regulate the temperature of the engine effectively (unless the radiator is hopelessly undersized). Oh, and buy some proper crimpers, and some proper crimps (not the big value buckets from eBay!). I get mine from RS Online which are expensive but really good quality. I find the eBay ones tend to pull off no matter how hard they're crimped. I got these for crimpers. They've been very good so far, and the stripping tool is dead useful as well. Sometimes the jaws aren't the right size for the crimps (the red one can be a bit small if you're up at the top of a red crimp's capacity), but otherwise fully recommended. Legend cheers biturbo228 - very helpful, I was given similar advice by a friend so have done as you guys suggested and bingo! I've wired it up using the relay on the ignition to fan and kept the manual fan connection and all working well! Fans now turn on when up to temp and also from manual switch. Very pleased with it. The plan was to get the Herald out for a spin, but now the clutch (or clutch slave cylinder) on the fiat has gone which is annoying and it's blocking the garage. FFS it's never-ending... Those crimpers look pretty special too, maybe as a treat... |
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The herald has been tucked up for winter and diff swap but time to get it out. Except he isn't playing ball. He fires up on full choke, then runs for a few seconds with choke moved in, but dies. If I keep choke out then he also keeps idling for a little time then dies. Perfect ffs. I've had air leaks before and it would hunt revs so don't think it is that. Potentially vacuum leak which I'll check (although piping is only a year old). Plugs have been cleaned and ignition is new. I can see fuel in the fuel filter, and the fuel pots on thd carbs are full to the brim. One of them seemed to be under a little pressure when I took the tip off, I wonder if fuel just isn't getting sprayed for some reason. Given the carbs a good old blast with carb cleaner and will try again when I can. Or the fuel pump has gone maybe, another easy one to check (but this is also quite new). The fuel is about 8 months old so probably shouldn't be stale. Hope not, draining a tank sucks. Carbs are set up to run a bit rich, idle is set quite high, both just so I can get it running for a prolonged period and adjust (or even just get it out the garage!). Frustrating, all suggestions welcome! More exciting though is I found an FD small crank 1300 from a mk3 spitfire I believe. Been looking for months and nothing has come up on ebay, tried the usual spit breakers and suppliers but the only small crank around was a fully built one at £1k. Got this one for a bargain price although it'll probably end up costing plenty to rebuild it but I can spread it over time, and I get it do the work. They're meant to be stronger for high revs and generally the best of the 4 pots from what I can tell. It's in a sorry state but turns over. Plan is to use it as a longer term project, learn how to build an engine and take my time. In the meantime I'll keep the large crank motor in the herald so I can still use it (if I can't get the curse word woken up!)    |
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Spit FD and Herald GE are basically the same bottom end. The FD has cam bearings and a more interesting cam and that’s basically it. The cam bearings are easily added, or left out depending on whether you have a large or small journal cam to go in.
Heads are interchangeable. Herald GE engines have soft valve springs and a weird valve cap retention system which is best avoided with any other that the standard Herald cam. You can also use heads from the large journal 1300s, some of which have bigger valves.
FD engines are often thoroughly knackered and taken out to the last oversize/undersize so good luck with this one.
If needed I have a GE block and crank sat here. They need machining but are standard size now.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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carltonx
Part of things
yardie in brum
Posts: 645
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Have you thought of fitting a 1500 midget/ spitfire engine? Iv just done this to mine , and the difference is night and day , I didn’t think the 1500 was so fast , I can no longer post pics (don’t know why) else I would do a build thread , and have you tried the spitfire graveyard, for parts iv had a few bits of them they are very good
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1500 Herald is a fine thing - if done right. Done right means the right gearing, as whereas is the 1300 is a revvy things and will sing along sweetly at high rpms for hours.... the 1500 won't. The 1500 does torque but tends to knock out the bottom end rather quickly if subjected to the same sort of treatment. 3.89 diff with Overdrive is ok (though first gear somewhat pointless). 3.63 diff better. Basically you want to transplant the full mechanicals from a 1500 Spit. Vitesse/GT6 brakes are a worthwhile upgrade too.
If you are just going to hoon about locally and like revs, stick with the 1300. If you want a long distance mile-muncher, 1500 and the trimmings works well. I did 30k miles in my 1500 Herald one year (took two engines mind)
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Mrs Badgers Herald convertible has a 1500 spitfire engine along with matching overdrive gearbox and swing spring rear end. The conversion was done in the 90's according to the DVLA history.
It goes a treat when it goes. :-)
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Spit FD and Herald GE are basically the same bottom end. The FD has cam bearings and a more interesting cam and that’s basically it. The cam bearings are easily added, or left out depending on whether you have a large or small journal cam to go in. Heads are interchangeable. Herald GE engines have soft valve springs and a weird valve cap retention system which is best avoided with any other that the standard Herald cam. You can also use heads from the large journal 1300s, some of which have bigger valves. FD engines are often thoroughly knackered and taken out to the last oversize/undersize so good luck with this one. If needed I have a GE block and crank sat here. They need machining but are standard size now. Nick Thanks Nick, I'll let you know for sure. Depends on how this block ends up looking, if it can't be saved then I'll be in touch! The car did come with the original GE on a pallet (it had a 1500 fitted, which was a bit broken...). I left the GE on the drive and the scrap metal collectors took by the time I'd woken up! The cheek! Should have put a note saying it isn't scrap... It currently has a large crank head but not sure if it has thd large valves, will check and potentially re use that, good tip. |
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Have you thought of fitting a 1500 midget/ spitfire engine? Iv just done this to mine , and the difference is night and day , I didn’t think the 1500 was so fast , I can no longer post pics (don’t know why) else I would do a build thread , and have you tried the spitfire graveyard, for parts iv had a few bits of them they are very good Thanks carltonx, I previously had a 1500 Spitfire and agree it's a fun engine, the herald originally came with a 1500 fitted but it blew up spectacularly about 2 weeks after I got her running due to a poor rebuild. I've also popped a 1300 large crank engine after an enthusiastic blast down the motorway at revs it obviously didn't like. I'm keen to get a nice revvy motor that I can thrash on track, I think the FD is the best choice for that as they're a little happier at revs (although still an old triumph engine so I'll likely end up sat in the gravel on fire 🔥) |
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Mrs Badgers Herald convertible has a 1500 spitfire engine along with matching overdrive gearbox and swing spring rear end. The conversion was done in the 90's according to the DVLA history. It goes a treat when it goes. :-) Nice! Um hankering after some roof down action, bet it sounds great (when it runs!). Swing spring is on the list, for now I've put a bl**dy giant lowering block and gaz dampers at the back in the hope it doesn't try and throw me off the road quite as readily |
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It was time to get the Herald out of the garage this weekend finally, having spent any spare time messing with the other projects. It's not run since Oct 20 but I've started it a few times with no issues. It fired, sounded a bit rough, wouldn't run apart from on choke. Lots of revving later to clear the pipes and it idled with less choke. Quick check under the bonnet when it was running and there I see fuel pumping hard out of the rear carb breather pipe onto the garage floor. Brilliant! Got it off before the whole thing went up in flames and took the lid off the fuel chamber with the float in it. The fuel pot thing was filled to the brim, even making a decompression noise when I took it off. The Internet tells me it will probably be a blocked float needle from dirty fuel, entirely possible. The wetness is all fuel...   I rebuilt the carbs not long ago but didn't do the floats cos they looked good and fairly new already. Obviously not, serves me right really. |
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carltonx
Part of things
yardie in brum
Posts: 645
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I had that problem with my front carb so I adjusted the float and it cured it but iv got hif 44 s on mine
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May 10, 2021 14:17:50 GMT
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I had that problem with my front carb so I adjusted the float and it cured it but iv got hif 44 s on mine Hoping it worked, adjusted last night, it was jammed in the low position and needed wiggles and cleaning. Not tried starting again yet as it was 11pm and the car is so loud the neighbours will kill me.    |
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