Great to see another Blackbird engine being used in something unusual, should go well in something so light as the Kitten. Not sure if you have sorted out your clutch slave cylinder issue hitting the propshaft but I had to offset my slave with 65mm standoffs and longer bolts to clear the prop on my Imp build. The clutch pushrod from the slave through the engine was replaced with a longer one in stainless, 8mm rod if I remember correctly. Matches the original but only longer to suit the stand off for the clearance required.
Hope you've left yourself enough access to get that fuel pump off when the body is on!
Suppose if you've got a nut on the bottom a key will be manageable.
Yeah as you say the bolts are on the bottom so should be okay, confusingly though the bolts are allen headed which you wouldn't see from underneath, however the rest of the fuel line and brake line are the same so hopefully someone other than me would put 2 and 2 together.
Clutch slave back on with a HEL braided clutch line, ages ago made a plate to hold the slave in place which has had material trimmed away so it fits rotated, this then avoids the prop shaft. Threaded rod and nuts hold in place.
Need to make a pedal box out of this to take a couple of master cylinders and a brake pedal switch. I had cleaned it a while back and painted it but it needs modding quite a bit so will give it another rub down and paint as well -
Back together for now as I need more room for the pedal box so I stuck the top back on to work it out, the bulk head has heat resistant material in the engine bay and heat resistant aluminium in the car as a sandwich. I am going to put more M5 nuts and bolts in a greater frequency to hold together as I don't want to take the body off in 6 months if the glue fails
Not much space
Clearly will cut the threads off the bolts once I have done them all
Love this build; You did a lot of work in a quite a short time.
Thanks. Loads more to do it's like 3 steps forward 2 steps back at the moment unlike previous cars which have been modification this is design and build as you go, and then unpick the last design because it doesn't fit the next bit.
Only one week ago today I sent racespeccages.co.uk/ a drawing with three hoops I wanted making with feet so that I could position them in the Kitten then order whatever a need to make up the connecting bars, well they turned up today -
Heres the rear two in position, I've not positioned the front one yet
As you can see in the pic above the floor is hiding the bracket that fastens the door frame that supports the hinges to the chassis
So I cut it out, in it's place will be the roll cage plate that will be welded to the chassis, the cage will then bolt to this. I will also come off the cage to support the A pillar in multiple place, once the cage is in it will stay in so if the body ever needs lifting off again the cage will be unbolted and lift off with the body.
Same for the cage points behind the front seats, all are held in place with a bolt so when I lift the body off to weld they can be positioned accurately
Got the tyres fitted Nankang NK Comfort AS-1 155/55 R14 V, best I could find for the size as they have a re-enforced side wall
The wheels and tyres look great in the arches, so no blown arches for the sleeper look
Before I started all the above I levelled the car out as it is passenger side heavy due to the engine location (I will sort this by adjusting the coil overs when it is at it's final weight), and started to align the shell with the chassis. I am almost certain that the body shell was not originally straight on the chassis as the mounting holes did not line up, I checked and checked again off the wheels, the door shuts front and rear door are all good so I don't think anything has moved I just thing it wasn't straight to begin with.
When offering the pedal box up and sitting on wood to find the best position I stumbled across a problem, I don't have enough space in the cabin for the driver. I cannot go any further backward as a hoop in the chassis prevents this so the only option is forward, which would mean getting rid of the current steering column bracket and battery position -
Cut the fibreglass out and made a 2mm box section of the new extended leg room for pedals -
Fibre glassed and then removed the metal -
Need to give it another layer on the outside tomorrow just for more strength -
A while ago I butchered the dash by making a shoe box sized fibreglass housing for the bike dash, I have now fixed this into the original dash which has been cut long wise so that it can be extended by 95mm. This is so I can house some electric heaters under it and get the wipers in as well as cover the roll bar. This is the outline template so far for a new fibreglass dash, I still have a lot to do by blanking off all the cut outs etc so I can mount new switchgear -
Two for one here, as you can see the extended dash and also I have took the air box off to start putting in new choke and throttle cables, the clutch pipe is already in so once I get some parts I can connect these bits up and get the clutch and brakes bled
Plenty to do on the dash before it will be ready as a mould but it's a start