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Awesome commentary guys thank you.
An Minor expert once recommended that I put strips of teflon between the springs to allow them to move more freely against each other and maybe remove a leaf entirely. I presume the shortest leaf would be the one to go?
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Like your thread as i have a Rover P5B as a daily driver! The Rover P5B have piece of plastic between the leafs from factory. This will improve slding and also may avoid noises. On my restored P5b i greassed the leafsprings and made leather boots
Which spring to remove i cannot tell but the thickness of the spring is also important
Peter
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Awesome commentary guys thank you. An Minor expert once recommended that I put strips of teflon between the springs to allow them to move more freely against each other and maybe remove a leaf entirely. I presume the shortest leaf would be the one to go? I took our springs apart greased between them and then made leather gaiters to wrap them in, while the front, standard with slightly wider track, feels very well planted the rear does feel like it needs more damping now (a unlubricated leaf spring has a fair bit of internal damping due to all the internal friction) I plan to try thicker oil in the dampers when get the chance, never really felt axle tramp with the mighty 1098 though. As said above it's a common mistake to put stiff rear springs on a rwd, loses traction and makes them oversteer far too easily, look at period rallying escorts the back squats down quite noticeably when they accelerate.  |
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2020 14:35:53 GMT by kevins
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My first car was an early '64 (1098 but still bronze speedo, no dash trim) Minor van with side windows in varying shades of primer, filler, rust and fresh air, which I drove for three years (before acquiring my Amazon as a family hand down). I still remember the razor sharp steering & rifle bolt gear change foldly, and reading about your stunning looking example is really making me want another Minor... Always liked the four doors more than the two doors for some reason too, and the spec & upgrades of your car sounds ideal for making it more useable in modern traffic condtions.
Out of interest though, what was the reason behind fitting just the Wolseley 1500 drums rather than a disc brake conversion? It's been a long time since I read up much on the upgrades, but if wanting to stay with front drums, I always understood that the Riley One-Point-Five had the biggest drums that would fit. However, I'm very happy to be educated on this, as if I do ever have another, the main thing that I really won't keep is the standard brakes which even in perfect order, were best described as bureaucratic, if not Vogon... |
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Out of interest though, what was the reason behind fitting just the Wolseley 1500 drums rather than a disc brake conversion? Originally bigger drums over discs was a deliberate choice to maintain a "period modified" feel and reduce the likelihood of needing servo assistance. I did come across some even bigger Riley 1.5 brakes but they were just so enormous they didn't really seem to fit with the proportions of the car so I sold them on - they're just so much heavier and wider I had worries about the lower trunnions, the stub axles and the necessity for much longer wheel studs.
A few years after making those choices and finally finishing the rears last Monday I find myself tempted by a mild servo (approx 2:1), especially the dual output type so I could have a poor-mans dual brake circuit. I've had the experience of pulling off the M6 onto a slip road and the brake pedal going straight to the floor. Poor gearbox and handbrake got some abuse that day.
My partner really wants us to get an Amazon but they're a bit too pricey for us and I have my heart set on a landcrab now.  |
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2020 9:45:24 GMT by halkyon
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Rally plaque for the year. Also removed the shortest, bottom leaf from the springs. A little more comfortable and negligible effect on ride height, maybe lost the slight rake it had before.   |
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Last Edit: May 2, 2020 18:31:03 GMT by halkyon
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My humble opinion is that this is as close to Morris Minor perfection as it is possible to get 😎
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Love it. I'm back working on mine for the first time since October. Got the bonnet, bootlid and rear panel painted and might see if I can get one of the front wings done tonight.
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Love it. I'm back working on mine for the first time since October. Got the bonnet, bootlid and rear panel painted and might see if I can get one of the front wings done tonight. Nice, any fibreglass panels? Considering glass for my bootlid given the price of replacement steels. |
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Got a fiberglass bootlid on ours, frankly it's not up to much and is cracking in several places, It's all down to quality though, the one we have is a bit thin and flimsy, The boot lid on my elan has never had any problems but the fiberglass is about twice the thickness, the other thing is the light weight makes it difficult to shut. I have bought a steel one to restore, as you say the new ones at the best part of £500 are a bit steep!
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Thats a really pretty looking morris minor, i've always fancied one of these. What are they like to drive?
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May 12, 2020 15:21:10 GMT
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Love it. I'm back working on mine for the first time since October. Got the bonnet, bootlid and rear panel painted and might see if I can get one of the front wings done tonight. Nice, any fibreglass panels? Considering glass for my bootlid given the price of replacement steels. Sorry only seeing this now. No mine is all steel. It came with two good second hand steel wings and I got a couple of shop soiled rears from ESM. Fronts are on but haven't tackled the rears as need some welding in both rear arches. A friend was supposed to be doing it but with the current madness going on it hasn't happened yet. Just carrying on trying to get the paint right which I seem to be getting the hang of. I'm using coach paint and at long last I'm getting a flat surface straight off the brush. I've known a few who have used fibreglass wings and said that the heavy duty ones were pretty good. Haven't heard anybody using the bootlids. My friend who I got mine off uses his 69 two door as daily driver and he seems to just use good second hand panels. Mind you he normally goes to the National Rally each year to pick up parts although he was saying last year that body panels were getting rarer and pricier. Hope you get sorted. |
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May 12, 2020 15:26:11 GMT
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Thats a really pretty looking morris minor, i've always fancied one of these. What are they like to drive? An absolute hoot. The only other cars I have enjoyed driving as much were the 71 Saab 96, and 88 Marlin Roadster that I used to own. |
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May 12, 2020 18:38:01 GMT
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Thats a really pretty looking morris minor, i've always fancied one of these. What are they like to drive? An absolute hoot. The only other cars I have enjoyed driving as much were the 71 Saab 96, and 88 Marlin Roadster that I used to own. I'd second that not much good on a motorway but fantastic on b roads and about town. |
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May 13, 2020 12:07:52 GMT
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Thats a really pretty looking morris minor, i've always fancied one of these. What are they like to drive? Standard with ancient damper oil they can have understeer and body roll issues.
Dial out the positive camber with a washer on the eyebolts, get the right toe-in, replace the damper oil, fit good tyres and it is really quite fun. I've also added a front anti-roll bar with some custom poly mounts (the kit ones are plastic plumbing fittings), and will get around to rose-jointing it to the lower arm one day too.
Nice, any fibreglass panels? Considering glass for my bootlid given the price of replacement steels. Sorry only seeing this now. No mine is all steel. It came with two good second hand steel wings and I got a couple of shop soiled rears from ESM. Fronts are on but haven't tackled the rears as need some welding in both rear arches. A friend was supposed to be doing it but with the current madness going on it hasn't happened yet. Just carrying on trying to get the paint right which I seem to be getting the hang of. I'm using coach paint and at long last I'm getting a flat surface straight off the brush. I've known a few who have used fibreglass wings and said that the heavy duty ones were pretty good. Haven't heard anybody using the bootlids. My friend who I got mine off uses his 69 two door as daily driver and he seems to just use good second hand panels. Mind you he normally goes to the National Rally each year to pick up parts although he was saying last year that body panels were getting rarer and pricier. Hope you get sorted. Any tips for the coach paint? I have some in the garage but haven't dared yet! |
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Last Edit: May 13, 2020 12:10:59 GMT by halkyon
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May 15, 2020 14:10:32 GMT
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Thats a really pretty looking morris minor, i've always fancied one of these. What are they like to drive? Standard with ancient damper oil they can have understeer and body roll issues.
Dial out the positive camber with a washer on the eyebolts, get the right toe-in, replace the damper oil, fit good tyres and it is really quite fun. I've also added a front anti-roll bar with some custom poly mounts (the kit ones are plastic plumbing fittings), and will get around to rose-jointing it to the lower arm one day too.
Sorry only seeing this now. No mine is all steel. It came with two good second hand steel wings and I got a couple of shop soiled rears from ESM. Fronts are on but haven't tackled the rears as need some welding in both rear arches. A friend was supposed to be doing it but with the current madness going on it hasn't happened yet. Just carrying on trying to get the paint right which I seem to be getting the hang of. I'm using coach paint and at long last I'm getting a flat surface straight off the brush. I've known a few who have used fibreglass wings and said that the heavy duty ones were pretty good. Haven't heard anybody using the bootlids. My friend who I got mine off uses his 69 two door as daily driver and he seems to just use good second hand panels. Mind you he normally goes to the National Rally each year to pick up parts although he was saying last year that body panels were getting rarer and pricier. Hope you get sorted. Any tips for the coach paint? I have some in the garage but haven't dared yet! First thing is really good expensive brushes and get them broken in so that any potential loose hairs will have been worked out. I've been using Purdy brushes which are about £15 to £20 each and they are worth it. Other than that it is practise getting the paint on without over working it which I have to admit I am still guilty of. But when it works it leaves a fabulous finish much better than the orange peel that a lot of even professional spray jobs have. I have been learning on the job and have been doing everything by hand as I have no power in my lock up. I have become very critical of the finish that I am getting which is one of the reasons it has taken me so long to get it done, but I'll get there. Runs and sags are the main problems unless the panel is lying perfectly flat. If you gat a run slice it off with a knife and leave it to dry properly overnight before you rub it down again. That is the main problem with coach enamel is the long drying time which can allow dust to settle. The other thing I would say is watch a few videos on youtube. Most show two brushes to put the paint on with one and then lay off with a dry brush. I found this difficult and after talking to a professional coach painter he said jut to use the one brush. Ultimately it's cheaper than spraying as all the paint goes on the car and if you can get a good finish you've gained a skill and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. When I get my Minor done I'm eyeing up a 1940 Morris 8 which needs a repaint that's for sale locally. If I could get it at the right price I might take the plunge. |
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May 15, 2020 19:41:34 GMT
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First thing is really good expensive brushes and get them broken in so that any potential loose hairs will have been worked out. I've been using Purdy brushes which are about £15 to £20 each and they are worth it. Other than that it is practise getting the paint on without over working it which I have to admit I am still guilty of. But when it works it leaves a fabulous finish much better than the orange peel that a lot of even professional spray jobs have. I have been learning on the job and have been doing everything by hand as I have no power in my lock up. I have become very critical of the finish that I am getting which is one of the reasons it has taken me so long to get it done, but I'll get there. Runs and sags are the main problems unless the panel is lying perfectly flat. If you gat a run slice it off with a knife and leave it to dry properly overnight before you rub it down again. That is the main problem with coach enamel is the long drying time which can allow dust to settle. The other thing I would say is watch a few videos on youtube. Most show two brushes to put the paint on with one and then lay off with a dry brush. I found this difficult and after talking to a professional coach painter he said jut to use the one brush. Ultimately it's cheaper than spraying as all the paint goes on the car and if you can get a good finish you've gained a skill and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. When I get my Minor done I'm eyeing up a 1940 Morris 8 which needs a repaint that's for sale locally. If I could get it at the right price I might take the plunge.
Done that?!  |
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May 15, 2020 20:03:07 GMT
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I'm not that keen and would probably get arrested for exposure. Had a mate down tonight trying to get my Rover going and showed him the Minor. He couldn't believe that it had been brush painted.
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May 15, 2020 20:20:48 GMT
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Aye the Volvo 145 I had for a while was brush painted, only clue was a single drip on a door. The finish had a lovely smooth, kind of thick quality to it that was hard wearing and rounded edges slightly, and it still polished up well.
My garage is pretty dusty - I may invest in a painting enclosure and have a go at my boot lid.
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Last Edit: May 15, 2020 20:21:22 GMT by halkyon
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May 28, 2020 14:10:13 GMT
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I would never have thought that your 145 had been brush painted. I'm still having problems with the odd sag and brush marks. Think I've cracked the drips. I tried to flat it back and polish it but it doesn't come up too well, but I did buy a tin of varnish suitable for coach paint and apparently you can flat it back and then polish it up. I'm currently flatting panel by panel and varnishing them. When they're all done I'll leave it for a few weeks to cure properly and then attack it with the fine wet and dry, T Cut etc. If it works it'll get rid of any dust that has got onto the car and take out any brush marks of sags. Let's hope it works.
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