1967 Triumph GT6 (Smith4)

That's great, really helpful to have the different shaft lengths, cheers.

For the threaded bush ends, try typing 'rod end bush' into Google images.
Not sure on quality, but here's an Ebay version:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285169020571?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749392&toolid=20006&customid=GB_131090_285169020571.142394001106~1869696445123-g_EAIaIQobChMIvoz3v4PlggMV_wcGAB3rIg0XEAkYASABEgLvsvD_BwE

Well this is brilliant

Awesome. The photo of it outside looks badass.

This is still so cool.

zeberdee Yeah, thanks dude.
Just had a really difficult year with stuff, so hopefully going to get a load more work done on it soon.

A little update - 2nd house move since I started this thread in 2018!!

Front arches/wings have had some more clearancing for the wheels to turn and the tyres to not catch on things - still need to do more clearancing.

Front wheel arches chopped off, wings cut (radiused), outer bits of inner arches slitted (is that a word?) to help re-shaping to get ready to be be tapped upwards and welded to wing, and bulkhead/firewall re-shaped a little with hammer.

2nd camber spacer put back on (for fun) as well as to see where the bulkheads needs amending with varied camber adjustments, because when the wheel goes through it's up and down suspension movements and camber adjustments more areas of the bulkhead need amending. I've now come to the conclusion cutting the bulkhead, re-shaping a little further back, and then welding will give the best clearance for the tyre on full lock, and look better than re-shaping with just a hammer (which is what a lot of racing Spitfires/GT6s had done).

Just to re-mention, my GT is for fun at low speeds, not high top speeds. I don't recommend this amount of camber for any other reason than fun! But if you do what to look into the science of it, check out the 1967 MX-1 Camber car made and tested by Milliken. He had camber adjustment up to about 50 degrees negative, and testing also included things like toe and castor.

Next up will potentially be clearancing for the rear tyres, which means cutting/radiusing the rear wings to stop the body sitting on the tyres.

Once all the clearancing is done, I can position the front and rear arches for best fitment, allowing for necessary suspension travel and steering lock. And eventually weld them in place


Before the work on the front arches:



After arch/wing work and extra camber spacers (1x 1/2" spacer per wishbone mount = about an extra 4 degrees):




Yes - the bottom of the sill is wonky I chose the cheaper Steelcraft make of panel rather than the more expensive Heritage make, and I had to amend the top edge of the new panel to get it to sit in line with the door bottom, and it still didn't sit quite right. I'm aiming to trim a little off the bottom edge and spot-weld along to make it flatter, but the sill will still be wonky overall: