1967 Triumph GT6 (Smith4)

Found a machinist and took the Offy inlet manifold to be milled down, so that the carb doesn't hit the underside of the bonnet bulge. I have a 6mm pertinax plate between the carb and manifold to prevent heat from the engine causing the petrol to boil when sitting in traffic or on long journeys.

Photos below showing the Offy and Carter carb in place, but some more work to clean up/finish the inlet manifold are needed before mounting properly. I also want to clean up the valley area and put the new valley gasket on.









Also, engine mounts, gearbox mount, SD1 timing pointer, and the steel alternator bracket are etch primed and being grey primered:







Hopefully will get a welding day on finishing the other part of the engine mounts, and bonnet repairs.


The rotoflex vertical uprights are now with Mr Speedy for modifying to run the larger MGF wheel bearings, CVs, lobros, as they are a lot stronger than the Triumph rear suspension. This set up with an adjustable lower wishbone will be designed to give me enough adjustability of negative camber, and toe settings, without the 'twist' that the Mk1 setup gives. Keeping the wheel stable at all times is very important for wheel/tyre/arch fitment.


Once the rear suspension is made up (a way off yet!), then the body can come off the chassis, and the underside de-rusted and painted, and the chassis can de-rusted, painted up, and new parts fitted.

That’s coming on nicely 🙂

Nick

Thanks, Nick. And thanks for the drawings too for the roto/MGF conversion.
It should, once all done, give a strong and safe rear end for the V8 torque.

Centring rings to go, and that should hopefully sort the brake side.

The assembly together!






Locktabs on the backplate to be folded up.

Yes it does. GT6's can look nice in magenta too.

The manual conversion for your Sprint was definitely a good move - much more drivability, plus overdrive for cruising

Yes, drag racing may be out of the thought process!! Lol. The R160 LSD will do well as the upgrade from the Triumph diff, and the planned custom rear lower wishbones should stop the 'twist' that the Mk1 fixed spring set-up unfortunately has.

As far as I have found in researching lower rear wishbones for the CV/roto conversion, if I have two mounting points per wishbone, and as far apart as sensibly possible, this reduces the amount the vertical link can twist at all. The Rotospit (rotary engine) featured in the Grassroots motorsport (magazine?) years ago, and also Ron Harper's Modsport Spitfire (currently raced by his son, Jack,) have 2x mounts per lower wishbone, and far apart.

The rotospit has them made up from bar (looks like roll cage bar), and Ron's Spitfire has recently had a newer, lighter design of his wishbones made up.

Like Ron's/Jack's Spitfire, I aim to have similar adjustable wishbones made up, giving rigidity, strength, and adjustment for camber and toe.

That's the plan!

Oh, and well spotted - yes I did!

I thought it was the last opportunity to do this before having the hub pressed in. I just touched up the paint on the bolt heads afterwards.
As you said, it probably wouldn't have made a difference, but at least it's a bit more 'Triumph factory procedure' where I can.

LSD looks like a version 2 R160 VLSD. At first viewing, looks like an open diff, but there is a section on the left where the viscous fluid is.

Seems clean inside, needs a bit more de-rusting and painting on the outside.












Tried on the backplate which makes the LSD bolt to the Triumph chassis. Needed a tiny amount of material taking off the inside, but fits nicely 👍

Great to see another update....but wouldn't it just have been easier to get the roll cage company to make a bespoke cage rather than faffing about yourself? Nickson would have done a great job on it.

Looks like a subaru impreza diff