1967 Triumph GT6 (Smith4)

Thanks for this, Nick. I'm not 100% sure what Subaru model they came from, but possibly a Forester.

I don't know what length shaft I'll need yet - it depends on the track width once the lower wishbones have been made up.

And also, as I am running more negative camber than standard, this could affect what shaft length I need to run too.

If the track is about 30mm narrower than a standard roto track width, I could try out MGF short axles (I have one to try).
If the track is wider than standard roto width, then maybe Mk5 Fiesta could work?

Once I have the uprights machined and built with the MGF bearings and hub flanges and a rear wheel bolted on, and the Subaru diff and original leafspring bolted up, I can then take some measurements for the adjustable lower wishbones and see if the leafspring needs shortening to keep the rear wheels in the arches.

With the original Mk1 GT6 rear suspension, as you know, the camber isn't governed by the length of the leafspring or lack of lower wishbone, it is the angle of the drive shaft. But with the roto setup, it is the length the leafspring and lower wishbone - so a lot a different way of calculating camber!

But the switch to this setup should illiminate my rear suspension flex!!

When I bought the Subaru LSD, I asked for the corresponding Subaru CVs that fit into the diff, so think these have the 40mm plunge.

I have the MGF lobros (?) that go on the upright/vertical link end of the driveshaft, which also should have a good depth of plunge.

Thanks for the shaft lengths. It's possible that you may be at the rear suspension conumdrum before I get there! I've got engine work and bonnet work next starting very soon.

Had an engine day today.

After separating the bellhousing and taking off the timing cover, there was a bit of cleaning up to do.

Looks like the rear crank seal may have been leaking a bit.

Also, a part was missing in the dizzy drive gear, so another part to go on the parts list.
















We did a test fit of the vapour blasted SD1 timing cover with painted short crank pulley:





Also held up the new MGB V8 water pump and water pump pulley. Didn't have any suitable hands free to take a photo of that though.

Once the cleaning is done, a few more parts ordered/received, and a few things sorted, it will be time to build it all back up and get the new flywheel on.

Thanks, I hadn't realised just how much vapour blasting could leave behind - I will definitely be cleaning out the timing cover and inlet manifold now.

I don't have a compressor/air supply, so will a water hose set to a powerful jet work okay? If so, I can blast them with water and then dry them.

First thing to do is get a drill bit that's a snug fit within every threaded hole and twist it with your fingers to make sure they're free from blast media gumped up in the bottom. Once you've done that you might be best using a bowl of hot soapy water and tooth/bottle brushes to scrub everything down, then blast any holes out with spray tins of brake cleaner. You really need compressed air though to make sure it's fully clean, as if you blast it with air and stick your face near the blowback you can feel if there's still grit present on your skin.

Varour blasting advertised as "safe" for engine parts is a proper con that seems to have got into the car scene psyche as OK. Its worse than dry blasting in pretty much all cases.

[/quote]First thing to do is get a drill bit that's a snug fit within every threaded hole and twist it with your fingers to make sure they're free from blast media gumped up in the bottom. Once you've done that you might be best using a bowl of hot soapy water and tooth/bottle brushes to scrub everything down, then blast any holes out with spray tins of brake cleaner. You really need compressed air though to make sure it's fully clean, as if you blast it with air and stick your face near the blowback you can feel if there's still grit present on your skin.

Varour blasting advertised as "safe" for engine parts is a proper con that seems to have got into the car scene psyche as OK. Its worse than dry blasting in pretty much all cases.
[/quote]

Such a shame that vapour blasting has its problems.
The bolt holes and everything do look pretty clear to be fair, but I'll have a go with hot the soapy water and tooth-brush, and then spray can brake cleaner into all the nooks and crannies I can find.

Thanks for the advice and tips, mate 👍

[/quote]
That should be light enough assembly to give some pretty nippy throttle response.

From memory it was only the big 4x4 multi set up that used a front pulley for balancing by having a lump of steel rod on the inside a rim on the back of one of the pulleys - On mine I machined off the lugs on the front and just use the single pulley.

[/quote]

Brill, thanks for this.
Running just the single pulley should save a tiny bit of weight, and may help throttle response that tiny bit more 👍

Thank-you. Not quite what I was expecting 😀

I'll see if my front pulley has anything.

I hope thats a steel flywheel, cant remember who I got mine from, but after a clutch fire at santapod, I elected to go steel as I had melted waves of meta into the surface of my stock flywheel, I also went for a Malleable pressure plate, (Helix) as the pressure plat had some huge heat cracks in it too. seem to remember I changed my crank/flywheel bolts to ARP too, using Mustang 302, much cheaper than 215 rover items