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Jun 18, 2018 19:26:59 GMT
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I've now narrowed it down to the Ignition Amplifier.  With the new unit fitted I've cut my old dizzy cap in half to set the rotor to the spark plug no.1  Started first time! Oh happy days! |
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Bib
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 Looking at the boot I wasn't happy about the recess to the right, I thought I'd build a false floor to hold a selection of tools for when I breakdown which I know is going to happen!  This is the initial mockup with the tools I reckon I'll need.  All routed out.  Final fitting with tools before paint.  Before painting I prepared the MDF with sealer (3 coats) as I know from past experience how MDF absorbs every drop of moisture. Then a couple of coats of primer filler.  A couple of coats of black paint with red metal flake and three coats of lacquer. Just before painting I decided to make this removable and also raised this in height by 3 inches so I could store the warning road triangle, high vis, spare bulbs etc underneath. Finally another piece of MDF was cut, sealed and covered in carpet to match the existing, now I'm happy!   |
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Bib
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Jun 26, 2018 16:45:13 GMT
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Loving that idea for the boot Paul!
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I believed the car was nearing completion, a date was booked for the MOT. Had a few days off from work to run through the car checking lights etc. It's so frustrating that when you install items they work on the day, leave it for a few months and they don't work! Reversing lights for example finally found the problem the actual switch on the gearbox couldn't get to it from underneath I had to remove the whole center console! The second problem was the near side indicator on the fibreglass wing, I had earthed it to a bolt holding the wing in place. Now that decided not to work, so I had to use the next bolt along! So finally all ready and with a day to spare I decided to make up some cover plate for the exhaust headers, they look so untidy.     |
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Bib
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It never rains but pours! Drove the car to the MOT station, first time on the road, pulls like a good un! Big smiles! So I did expect the car to fail on either the headlight alignment or emissions. It didn't even get that far firstly it was too low to get up the ramps but more importantly they asked where the vin number was on the car. As I explained, the inner sill where the vin number is usually stamped was rotten so I had to cut out and replaced all with new metal work, and the front end was also a replacement due to rot and I forgot to remove the metal vin plates off the old nose cone. So without these chassis identification tags no MOT would be done. They did point me in the direction of a company that make replacement plates but at a cost of 50 pounds I think was a bit extortionate, so I've purchased a set of stamps from fleabay for a tenner so i'll make my own. Then on the way back home hit a traffic jam crawling along I could hear a rubbing sound and the brakes seem to be binding! Managed to get home with smoke coming off both front brake pads, now here is the odd thing engine off car jacked up the wheels spin freely pumped the pedal and fine thats without the engine running so I presume its either master cylinder or servo I need to try it with engine running. So wheels off and the rubbing I heard was the tyres rubbing the inner fender.  I've also removed the front springs these measured 345mm in height, new standard springs on order and these will be 405mm in height.  |
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Bib
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Two steps forward, one back! At least you’re giving me things to think about for my conversion.
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Brakes will be the pushrod from pedal to servos too long.vacuum from engine pulls pedal down when running so brakes are on slightly all the time. Adjust the rod a little as there should be a bit of free play when engine off.
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Blackpopracing, you saviour, if it's as easy as that I'll owe you one! That'll be my weekend job. Springs arrived today, will try and attempt to put them on tomorrow morning before work, although the old ones were a real b'tch to get off so getting even longer ones in ......  |
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Bib
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You can check it by jacking front up and run engine, see if brakes are tight and
Then wedge pedal up so it can't press on servo and see if it goes loose. Try it with engine off to see if it's loose as well.
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Jul 30, 2018 13:41:57 GMT
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Sorry for the long absence, been really busy, so now I've got a fair bit to cover. Firstly i've looked into Blackpopracing recommendations regarding the brakes. 1. There is a small amount of free play on the brake pedal. 2. Jacked the front up with engine off and the brakes are free. Foot on the brake starts engine pedal drops down guessing an 1" inch, pumps brakes all ok, turns off engine checks wheels slightly binding but only just, pumped pedal and they're fine. I'm thinking maybe because of lack of use they're just stiff? With the new springs on and vin number stamped on a piece of stainless steel and fixed to the nose cone, I booked it in for an MOT.  Even with the new springs on they still had to add extension pieces to the ramps!  www.facebook.com/paul.mingotti/videos/10216665021048313/ here is a video hope this link works! So it failed, no surprise there! Thankfully only on three minor items 1. Offside rear bleed nipple on caliper leaking. 2. Headlight beams to high. 3. Parking brake lever ratchet not holding correctly. Bleed nipple now tightened, easy. Headlight surrounds removed for adjustment, fairly easy. Removal of interior to access handbrake, definitely not easy! 32yrs of use the handbrake was very slack a little bit of tightening in the bench vise, all nice and tight.  Third time lucky.  Good new she sailed through with no advisories. One thing I was sure it would fail on was the emissions but the outcome really surprised me.  |
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Bib
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Jul 30, 2018 14:10:54 GMT
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Still not happy with the brakes, they are very hard and when you push the brake pedal slowly you can feel a click about a third of the way down, I'm thinking its the master cylinder I've had nothing but problems with these on all my Manta's. I've had one refurbished at a cost of over £110, i've bought second hand ones but there no better, it seem as soon as they're disturbed they fail! Whilst detailing the engine bay I noticed brake fluid had been leaking from where the master cylinder meets the servo.  So I definitely need to get this setup replaced the problem I face is the current master cylinder only has three outputs one each for the front calipers and one for both the rear calipers. Anyone have any ideas what would be the best course of action? One good bit of news I've researched the road tax for the v8 and is the same as for the 2ltr £255 a year, I dread the insurance. That's for another day, today I've sent off all the paperwork to the DVLA - Engine receipt, mot certificate and cover letter from the garage stating engine number and Vin number, now its a waiting game, so tempting just to renew the road tax as it. |
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Bib
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Jul 31, 2018 12:41:15 GMT
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Top work on the ticket. Certainly no real worries on the emissions! Can't help on the brakes, unless you do away with the servo and go specialist for the master? Mine uses a different technology. Edit to add; looks muckin' fean!  |
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2018 12:42:41 GMT by georgeb
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Aug 14, 2018 17:42:17 GMT
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It's been two weeks now and nothing from the DVLA. So all I can do is detail the car. I've always used Autoglym for years but while trawling the net came across this company Gyeon with rave revues, thought I'd give it a try.  First sprayed the wheel with Gyeon Q2M Iron to decontaminate of all brake dust, on contact the liquid turns red was really surprised on the effectiveness so I did the brake calipers too.  Next Gyeon prep a polish and silicone remover.  And finally Gyeon Q2 Rim a Quartz wheel & Rim sealant, coated the calipers and the exhaust as this can cope with high temperatures exceeding 300 degrees celsius. Absolutely blow away with the outcome of these products. |
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Bib
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Aug 16, 2018 17:06:30 GMT
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Today I decided to shampoo the interior of the car used a product called Sonax it seemed to do the job very well. This is a before shot.  And after.  Notice the state of the water, this is from one door!  |
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Bib
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Sept 3, 2018 19:29:31 GMT
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Well I've finally got the car taxed and insured!
Spent Sunday and today putting some miles on the engine and them dam gremlins have raised their heads!
1) speedo has stopped working.
2) When i accelerate the engine is great but as soon as i ease off the accelerator pedal in any gear, the engine starts to judder and its worse in low gear.
3) Now comes the scary problem, when I turn over the engine there is a loud knocking from the engine which disappears as soon as it fires up, and i've noticed a puff of blue smoke out of the exhaust!
I have a dreadful feeling I will have to tear down the engine, feeling totally gutted at the moment.
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Bib
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Sept 3, 2018 19:38:47 GMT
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V5 came through ok then?
If it only knocks on starting and not running stop panicking. Have a look at the starter - is it fouling on something?
Blue smoke is valve stem seals most likely.
Shuddering must be ign or fuel related?
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Sept 4, 2018 10:29:10 GMT
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Hi blackpopracing thanks for the reassurance, I have just replaced the coil will swap it over and give that a try. Was thinking it might be oil on the clutch face causing the juddering. The knocking has only just started and it’s a new starter motor, the sound seems to come from the front of the engine.
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Bib
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Sept 4, 2018 11:52:17 GMT
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Loose engine mount?? that could cause the juddering as well.
Engine might be flapping around under starter but is smooth when running.
Edit,
looking at your photos is the exhaust hitting you plates under the engine?
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Sept 4, 2018 13:07:40 GMT
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Could it be the header hitting the frame rail?....
great story on your successes here...keep those in mind...the car looks great inside and out!
great detailing notes, too....
one note...the header shields; do they touch the spark plug wires or no?....I might round the openings just a bit if they do...but it might just be the photo...
I had a motorcycle that would progressively engage the front brake calipers as I rode...fine when cold...but once things warmed up, the front brakes would start to bind.....I found a post on a bike forum where one of the passages in the master cylinder would get plugged up over time...it was the return passage that let pressure OUT of the system after you had applied the brakes. It was this tiny little port that I ended up clearing with some wire...(brake fluid shot out as I cleared the port!) All was good after that.....
Not sure if you have any old brake hoses that might be closing up on you??
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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